17-04-2025
Material World: Circ Secures 5-Year Partner, Sodra's Tannin Arms Call
Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Textile-to-textile recycler Circ has entered a long-term partnership with Acegreen Eco-Material Technology Co., a producer of cellulose filament products, to establish a commercial agreement to accelerate the textile industry's adoption of circular materials.
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Acegreen committed to purchasing Circ's recycled pulp and polyester as part of their strategic partnership.
'Acegreen was one of the first to work with us, and they've played an important role in advancing our technology and bringing it to market,' said Peter Majeranowski, CEO of Circ. 'They've integrated our recycled pulp and polyester into their filament production and are helping demonstrate how next-gen materials can scale. Their ability to move quickly and adapt is a great example of how great partners can accelerate real progress toward circularity.'
The agreement stipulates that Acegreen committed to purchase Circ's pulp over five years from Circ's first commercial-scale facility, which secured $25 million last month during an oversubscribed funding round led by Taranis. The recycled pulp will be used to produce pre-specified lyocell fibers, which brands can integrate into their supply chains. Additionally, Acegreen's parent company, Acelon, committed to procuring Circ Polyester over the same five-year period to 'support polyester filament production,' the partners said, and 'further diversify the application' of Circ's recycled offerings.
'This collaboration reflects our deep commitment to advancing sustainable fiber production and contributing to the future of a circular textile economy,' said Roger Chou, CEO of Acegreen. 'By working alongside Circ, we are not only securing a steady supply of innovative recycled materials but also reinforcing our dedication to reducing waste and promoting resource efficiency in the textile industry.'
Sustainable materials company Modern Meadow has partnered with carry brand Bellroy. The Australian B Corp will feature Modern Meadow's Innovera biomaterial (formerly known as Bio-Vera) to produce select products.
'We create biomaterials that help companies like Bellroy bring high-quality, sustainable products to market,' said David Williamson, CEO of Modern Meadow. 'By incorporating Innovera into accessories, Bellroy can offer carry products that are beautiful, functional and better for the planet. Given its durability, Innovera's particularly well-suited for high-wear applications.'
Engineered with plant-based proteins, biopolymers and post-consumer waste, Innovera features 80 percent renewable carbon content with twice the strength as traditional leather. The recyclable material mimics the look and feel of collagen within animal leather in various colors, haptics and finishes, Modern Meadow said.
'We're committed to supporting materials that have potential to solve very real environmental issues, without causing negative impacts elsewhere,' said Bellroy co-founder, Andy Fallshaw. 'We believe Innovera helps mitigate important waste streams and exceeds traditional leathers in many tangible performance aspects. From improved durability to highly tunable aesthetic and tactile traits, we're excited to bring this compelling material to customers worldwide.'
Under Armour and Unless Collective shared the stage in Italy this week to drop a regenerative sportswear collection.
'As a brand that has consistently disrupted the industry, we are prepared to do it again,' said Eric Liedtke, Under Armour's brand president (and founder of Unless Collective). 'Our unique and innovative approach represents a significant shift from the traditional production cycle, which often relies heavily on plastics and generates waste.'
Following the Neolast developer's acquisition of Unless Collective last August, the two brands hard-launched at Milan Design Week's Fuorisalone, the annual event's decentralized exhibitions throughout the country's moral capital. The resulting Under Armour x Unless collection marks the first collaboration between the pair.
'Regenerative design isn't a limitation—it's an evolution,' said Tara Moss, co-founder and chief marketing officer of Unless Collective. 'People want to look good, feel good and do good for the planet. We're proving that you don't have to choose between high design, high quality, and high impact. The future of sportswear is culture-driven, design-forward, and created for those who care about fashion and the planet's future.'
Designed for movement and meant to return to the planet, the regenerative collection features basics, like hoodies and T-shirts, for $30-$160.
'By using only plant-based materials, this regenerative sportswear collection is designed to decompose rather than pollute,' Liedtke said. 'Representing a revolutionary advancement in reimagining the future of product creation in our industry, with an innovative commitment that honors both athletes and the planet.'
Sanko Group's circular venture Re&Up Recycling Technologies has partnered with Marchi & Fildi to co-develop a 'new generation' of recycled cotton yarns. The strategic collaborators, still at the pre-industrial stage, will combine the former's textile-to-textile recycling technology with the latter's yarn development and manufacturing expertise.
'Partnering with Marchi & Fildi means joining forces with a company that shares our commitment to quality, innovation and circular transformation,' said Marco Lucietti, head of global marketing and communications at Re&Up. 'This collaboration allows us to push the boundaries of what's possible with recycled cotton fibers and move one step closer to making next-gen yarns a scalable reality for the entire industry.'
As the project is working to 'reach all levels of the textile value chain,' the recycled cotton fibers used will be sourced from Re&Up's integrated process that turns post-consumer waste into raw materials ready for industrial use. By merging recycling technology with yarn development, the companies hope to 'lay the groundwork' for scalable solutions applicable across the value chain.
'The evolution of our yarns from recycled fibers requires continuous investment in technical expertise and advanced technologies,' said Alberto Grosso, business development manager of Marchi & Fildi Group. 'What truly makes the difference are synergies with partners like Re&Up, who share our vision of quality and circularity, opening new opportunities for joint development.'
As Södra works to add tannin to its range of forest-based products, the Swedish pulp producer is seeking partners to develop novel polyphenol-based sustainable alternatives to fossil products across various applications.
The call to arms follows Södra's investment into a production line creating vegetable tanning agent from bark at its Värö facility in Sweden. Ideally, this new tannin—tapping tree bark for the polyphenol oligomers and polymers present in plant tissues—can be used to process leather in a more environmentally friendly way, the OnceMore developer said, with the capacity to produce 'millions of square meters' of leather.
'Now is the time to unite and maximize the potential of every tree, exploring innovative applications for tannin collaboratively,' said Viktor Odenbrink, sales director for Södra Bioproducts. 'Together, we can develop fossil-free products and contribute to a more sustainable future.'
While 'using bark for tanning is not new,' the industrialization of this process—aka when the 'tanning substance is extracted from the bark and transformed into a product for tanning leather,' per Södra—is, which is why the forest-owner association is 'open to possible new markets where this sustainable tannin could be used to do good,' within or outside of the leather industry.
Italian footwear brand P448 launched its third invasive fish leather capsule with the bluestripe snapper, known locally in Hawaii by its Tahitian name, ta'ape). Under the brand's 'Project Sustainability' umbrella, the Spring 2025 collection follows previous invasive fish drops (including the lionfish and carp) working to bring awareness to the harm the species poses to Hawaii's ecosystems.
'We see using the skins of invasive species in our footwear as an opportunity to help prevent future environmental degradation, while repurposing existing resources and replacing other materials in the process,' said Wayne Kulkin, CEO of P448.
In partnership with environmental nonprofit Conservation International, P448 sourced 2,000 bluestripe snapper skins from the island of Molokai for the collection, which builds off the Ta'ape Project. This earlier effort—launched in 2020 by Conservation International Hawaii with local nonprofit Chef Hui—works to encourage consumption of the invasive reef fish to support the local economy, improve the island's food security and reduce the species' environmental impact, P448 said.
'Throughout the globe, climate change is expected to exacerbate the impacts of invasive species. We need to be developing solutions to address this challenge while meeting other growing needs such as food security and community resilience,' said Matt Ramsey, senior director of Conservation International's Hawaii program. 'By removing ta'ape, the initiative benefits Hawaii's native marine life, feeds communities, and supports the local economy. Additionally with the lack of government-led programs to tackle the challenge of ta'ape, this initiative directly addresses these gaps.'
