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The Star
28-04-2025
- General
- The Star
QuickCheck: Is there a European 'delicacy' that has live maggots?
WHEN it comes to culinary adventures, Europe is known for stretching the limits of the palate. From blue-veined Roquefort to fragrant Limburger, cheese-lovers have long been tempted by bold flavours and daring textures. But is there really a traditional dish that takes things to a whole new level – complete with wriggling, live maggots? Verdict: TRUE Europe's storied culinary landscape is filled with delicacies that range from the refined to the downright eccentric – but few foods spark as much curiosity as casu martzu, the infamous maggot cheese of Sardinia. With a name that literally translates to "rotten cheese" in the Sardinian language (from "casu", meaning cheese and "martzu", meaning rotten or putrid), this regional specialty is as controversial as it is legendary. Casu martzu starts its life innocently enough as a wheel of pecorino, the hard, briny sheep's milk cheese beloved across Italy. But while pecorino is known for its robust flavour, casu martzu takes things several steps further by inviting in an unexpected guest: the larvae of the cheese fly, Piophila casei. Traditionally, after the outer rind of the pecorino is cut open, cheese flies are allowed – or rather, encouraged – to lay their eggs in the cheese. When the larvae hatch, they burrow through the curds, digesting the fats and breaking down the cheese's structure, which results in a soft, creamy texture and an intense, pungent aroma. The experience is not for the faint of heart; the wriggling maggots can leap when disturbed, sometimes launching themselves several inches into the air. Sardinians in the know are careful to shield their eyes when sampling a freshly cut wheel. Casu martzu's roots run deep in the culture of Sardinia, and its considered a delicacy reserved for weddings, milestone birthdays, or special gatherings. Despite its deep roots and local reverence, casu martzu has faced significant scrutiny in the modern era. EU food safety regulations, concerned with hygiene and the potential health risks of eating live larvae, have banned its commercial sale and violators risk hefty fines. Yet, like many outlawed delicacies, casu martzu has not disappeared. Instead, it has gone underground. In Sardinia's rural villages, small-scale production continues, with wheels of cheese passed quietly between neighbours and friends, or presented at family feasts where tradition trumps legislation. For many Sardinians, the ban is viewed as an affront to their heritage and a misunderstanding of the cheese's cultural significance. While casu martzu might sound like a niche curiosity, it has achieved a certain global fame (or infamy) thanks to travel shows, food documentaries, and the ever-growing appetite for "extreme eats." At the same time, casu martzu divides opinion, even among Sardinians – some relish it, while others balk at the idea of ingesting live maggots. Despite the legal hurdles and its polarising reputation, casu martzu endures as a living symbol of Sardinian culture, a cheese that is at once ancient, rebellious, and uniquely alive. It stands as a testament to the lengths people will go to preserve culinary heritage, even in the face of modern regulations. For those bold enough to try it, casu martzu offers a taste of history – one that quite literally leaps off the plate. References: 1. travel/article/casu-marzu- worlds-most-dangerous-cheese/ 2. foods/casu-marzu-italy 3. article/culinary-guide- sardinia 4. com/arts-culture/five-banned- foods-and-one-that-maybe- should-be-48687965/ 5. programmes/p054hhd7
Times
24-04-2025
- Business
- Times
Oyster or Roquefort? Gallic flavours rustle up new market for crisps
The French are munching crisps in ever greater quantities as flavours based on Gallic specialities have become more widespread, among them oysters, Camembert and pastis, the anise-flavoured spirit. Other innovations include crisps seasoned to taste like aligot, a dish of mashed potatoes blended with cheese and garlic; tartiflette, a baked dish of potatoes, cheese, bacon and onions; and Roquefort, the strong and salty blue cheese. Crisp sales have risen 42 per cent over the past decade, according to new data, partly because a packet costs an average of only €1.30, despite inflation. Choice has widened too, with 120 varieties now available in France compared with 108 five years ago, according to the consumer magazine LSA. 'If we only had four or five flavours,
Telegraph
28-03-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Twice baked blue cheese soufflé with pear and walnut salad
You might think you can't make soufflés but twice-baked ones are easier – and more delicious. You can use this recipe to make Gruyère and Parmesan soufflés too, it doesn't have to be blue cheese. When it comes to type, I think this is too salty made with Roquefort – choose a blue cheese that isn't as salty, such as Gorgonzola or Cashel Blue. Overview Prep time 35 mins Cook time 35 mins Serves 5 Ingredients For the soufflés 40g butter, plus extra for buttering the ramekins 40g Parmesan, finely grated 40g plain flour 250ml whole milk 75g blue cheese, cut into chunks or grated (it depends on its texture) 25g Gruyère, grated, plus another 35g for the second bake 1 tsp Dijon mustard 3 large eggs, separated ¼ tsp grated nutmeg (or more to taste) 200ml double cream For the dressing ½ tsp Dijon mustard 2 ½ tsp cider vinegar 4 tbsp walnut oil 1 tbsp olive oil (not extra-virgin) ½ tsp crème de cassis (or more or less to taste) For the salad 2 fat perfectly ripe pears juice of 1 lemon, to stop the pears going brown 20g butter 150g salad leaves 35g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped Method Step Heat the oven to 200C/190C fan/gas mark 6. Step Butter 4 x 150ml ramekins well. Sprinkle 40g finely grated Parmesan equally into each one – it will stick to the butter – then shake out the excess (keep this). Step Melt 40g butter in a saucepan and stir in 40g plain flour. Cook for 2 minutes, until the butter and flour come together and the mixture looks sandy. Remove the pan from the heat. Step Start adding 250ml whole milk a little at a time, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Keep this smooth, beating hard if necessary. Put back on the heat and bring to the boil – the mixture will thicken considerably. Step Stir in 75g blue cheese, cut into chunks or grated (it depends on its texture), 25g grated Gruyère and the rest of the Parmesan. Season and add 1 tsp Dijon mustard. Leave to cool a bit then add 3 large egg yolks and ¼ tsp grated nutmeg, ensuring everything is well mixed. Step Season well – it might seem strong but you're going to add egg whites which will soften the flavours. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl. Step Beat 3 egg whites in a really clean bowl until they form medium peaks. Fold this into the cheese and yolk mixture using a large metal spoon. Step Divide the soufflé mixture between the ramekins, filling them right up to the top. Wipe to remove any little spillages at the edges of the ramekins – these can stop the soufflés rising. Step Put the ramekins into a roasting tin and pour in ¾cm of boiling water. Bake for 15 minutes. Step Remove the ramekins from the tin. Leave to cool – the soufflés will sink a bit but don't worry, they will puff up on the second bake. Run a knife between the soufflés and the insides of the ramekins. Shake out the soufflés. Put these into one gratin dish, top down or, if you have them, individual ones. Cover loosely with cling film and put in the fridge. Step Make the dressing for the salad by whisking together ½ tsp Dijon mustard, 2 ½ tsp cider vinegar, 4 tbsp walnut oil, 1 tbsp olive oil (not extra-virgin), and ½ tsp crème de cassis. Season to taste. Step Before you recook the soufflés, halve and core 2 fat perfectly ripe pears, cut them into slices and drop them immediately into the juice of 1 lemon (this stops them going brown). Step Heat the oven to 220C/210C fan/gas mark 7. Pour 200ml double cream over the soufflés and scatter with 35g Gruyère. Bake for 10 minutes, until puffed up, bubbling and golden.
