7 days ago
I thought British holidays were boring, but this island changed my mind
In the seventh installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes , Lifestyle Editor Kristina Beanland reveals how she fell in love with an island in the English Channel.
Growing up, I spent two weeks every summer in Portugal. Back then, I didn't know how lucky I was to be so well acquainted with such a beautiful country, but I did know one thing: I hated holidaying in the UK.
Yes, I was being a brat. My only defence is that 10-year-old me had no idea how much a family holiday costs.
The two years that we headed to Scotland instead of the Algarve were met with teenage outrage: 'Doesn't it rain in Scotland?' The pictures are almost comical — I refuse to smile, ignoring the dramatic views from John O'Groats behind me.
So it wasn't until 2021 that the possibility of a UK-based vacay came up again.
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It was when the world was still living in the shadow of Covid, when travel to far-flung destinations involved PCR tests and paperwork — but like so many of us, I craved a change of scenery.
And that's when I landed upon Jersey, the small Channel Island 14 miles off the coast of France.
The only people I knew that had visited were my grandparents, then in their 80s. But a friend who grew up on the island had been posting pictures of her time back home, and I couldn't quite believe that this place, with its stunning beaches, was really in the UK.
It was the most fuss-free option, and with a flight time of one hour and five minutes from London to the capital of St Helier, it was just a hop, skip and a jump away.
It might sound odd, but the first things I noticed after landing in Jersey were the signs outside cafes, advertising illy coffee — people were drinking al fresco espressos, and it just felt oh-so European.
And that pretty much became the theme. The island has long been described as having a split personality: British with its classic pubs and fish and chips, but with road names like Route de la Liberation, a Norman food market, and beaches with long stretches of white sand that you can hardly believe aren't on the continent.
I've never been one to need a 'taste of home' on holiday — you won't catch me ordering a full English in 30C heat or heading to an Irish pub — but there's was something easy about being among the familiar, while also excited to explore somewhere new.
The vibes here are relaxed too. You get the sense there's not too much to stress about when you can shake the day off with a dip in the sea or an al fresco pint. Of course, it's not always sunny — and I experienced my share of drizzle when I was there — but the weather is generally mild and warmer than in the UK.
Everyone knows everyone, so if you walk into a pub (The rowdy Trafalgar in St Aubin, with it's live music, became my favourite), people know you're an out-of-towner. But rather than making you feel intimidated, locals are keen to chat — whether it's to tell you just how long next-day-delivery really takes out here, or to insist that they know someone who knows someone from your hometown.
At just nine by five miles, it's easy to get around — the bus network is straight-forward, but my preferred mode of transport was two wheels. After hiring a bike from Aaron's Bikes, I cycled the 40ish minutes from St Helier to the Portelet Inn pub, with its stunning views over the bay.
If you do just one thing in Jersey, it should be to get on a boat.
Jersey Seafaris offer exhilarating RIB boat tours around the coastline and beyond. One of their most popular tours takes you to The Ecrehous (prices start from £45.99 for adults) – a small group of isolated islands just eight miles from France.
There's enough time for you to hop off, have a wander (and drink your tinnies) before heading back home. You might even spot some dolphins (and brace yourself for some high-speed doughnuts in the harbour). I loved the experience so much, I booked another tour for the following day.
If you're after something a little more relaxing, I visited two of Jersey's stunning beaches.
The Club Hotel & Spa is located right in the center of St Helier. Rooms are spacious, but it's USP is the small outdoor pool with waterfall, a tranquil place to unwind (or nurse your hangover). There's also a library space complete with Gin Honesty bar, plus it's restaurant, Bohemia, has held a Michelin star for more than 20 years.
My favourite was St. Brelade's Bay, loved by locals and tourists alike for its wide swathes of golden sand and the original Jersey Crab Shack. I hadn't realised quite how popular the seafood institution would be and ended up missing out on a table – so be sure to book in advance. Instead, I opted for take out pizzas from the nearby Pizza Express, and had a picnic on the beach.
Another beautiful spot is Portelet Beach, with its steep steps that descend from the cliffs to a sun-trap beach. If you don't want to venture down to the sand itself, the Portelet Inn is an olde worlde pub with panoramic views over the bay. The pork belly roast I had was delicious, and at £26.95 for three courses, a bargain for this Londoner.
There's fascinating history here too. Jersey was under Nazi occupation during 1940 to 1945, and the eerie tunnels of a German underground military hospital is now the island's most visited museum, The Jersey War Tunnels. The moving exhibitions detail what life was like for those living there at the time, and are an important visit during your time in Jersey.
Both St Helier (the capital) and St Aubin are worth taking a stroll around. Walk along the harbour in St Aubin, or enjoy dinner at The Old Court House Inn, where you can satisfy your hunger while watching the boats bob in the distance.
I loved Jersey so much, I'm scared to go back. More Trending
Yes, I appreciate the logic is confusing, but the four days I spent on the island were so much fun, I worry it simply can't be replicated.
Latest figures show that around half of the visitors that head to Jersey are over the age of 55, but as far as I'm concerned, Millennials and Gen Z are sleeping on this underrated gem.
It has everything you'd want from a trip away: beautiful beaches, good food (and booze) and relaxed island vibes. It changed what I thought I knew about a British holiday — don't miss out.
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