9 hours ago
The best place to reconnect with my old rugby pals is on our beautiful golf courses
Growing up, life in our corner of Ireland was a glorious mix of muddy fields on the farm and manicured greens at the local golf club. It was my middle brother, Mark, who was the golf enthusiast. He'd disappear off there for the day while Simon, my older brother (and former Ireland international) and I were more likely to be found helping Dad farming.
But golf was never far away for me. I played a bit at university and during my rugby career I'd squeeze in a round here and there when time allowed. Then, as retirement loomed, the sport took on a whole new significance for me. Being a sportsperson, I needed something to keep me competitive, but also somewhere I could relax and be with friends. And when you have the array of golf courses we have here on the island of Ireland, it proved to be the perfect pastime for me. I still get that buzz from a close match, but I also appreciate the chance to be outdoors, enjoying good company and just the sheer thrill of hitting a really good shot. That never goes away.
During my playing days, we'd often get away on our time off from training to play a round at Royal Belfast, which was such a treat. Paul O'Connell was always one of the best players in our Ireland squad at the time. Brian O'Driscoll was very good too – but such a bandit! He was the captain, though, so he made the rules when it came to handicaps – you couldn't complain! The first two holes at Royal Belfast I remember being so tough, but if you emerged unscathed from those you could go on to score well there. But you do need a draw to play that course – I recommend you pack one in your bag!
When you retire from rugby it's very easy to lose touch with your old team-mates – people you've worked and played with so closely for years. It's strange. So I've started little golf trips with some old colleagues, which has been amazing. I took a group to Rosapenna in County Donegal last year, which is one of the finest places to play on the island of Ireland. We did a three-day blast, playing the three courses they have there: Sandy Hills, Old Tom Morris and St Patrick's. The greens at St Patrick's were just something else – massive slopes, it felt like almost a 20-foot drop from top to bottom on some of them, and so hard to read too. But it was all about the craic, the competition, and that special camaraderie you only get with old mates. We'd do a draw at lunchtime to work out who plays who, and the losers would buy dinner and drinks for the winners that night. We're already planning another trip for next year.
From a family point of view, Donegal holds a particularly special place in my heart. We had a place up at Portnoo, and family holidays always meant rounds at Donegal Golf Club in Murvagh. It's been a while since I played there, but I have such fond memories: the panoramic views of Donegal Bay and the Bluestack Mountains while taking on those challenging holes and being blown about by the Atlantic winds. Wonderful.
I'll always remember our journeys to Donegal. Before my sister was born, it was me and my two brothers sitting in the back of the car with all the nonsense you'd get with three boys like that. But the journey was always a sure sign we were on our way to a proper break.
And Donegal has this unique vibe. The winding country roads, sheep everywhere you look, the little towns with their wool shops and Donegal tweed. It's a place with a real sense of heritage, the peat fires, the smell of the sea, it all adds up to something quite special. And, of course, it's also where you can explore the stunning Malin Head – which I recommend to anyone making their way to this part of the world.
Another place I'd recommend to visitors is Westport, nestled in County Mayo on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is a charming town with a really vibrant atmosphere, Georgian architecture and stunning natural surroundings. It's overlooked by Croagh Patrick, Ireland's holy mountain, and bordered by the tranquil Clew Bay. You can cycle the scenic Great Western Greenway, explore historic Westport House, or just enjoy lively traditional music in welcoming pubs.
I've also enjoyed visits to Bushmills Distillery, which is one of the key stops on the Northern Ireland Whiskey Trail, and will happily take guests there as part of a day out. It's the world's oldest licensed whiskey distillery, dating back to 1608. It provides guided tours showcasing traditional whiskey-making processes and the tour finishes with a tasting session, which is always popular. I did a promo day there back in the day with Denis Leamy, the former Munster number 8. He was my room-mate when we were on Ireland duty together. It was quite unusual to have players from different teams rooming together, but we got on famously and he was a groomsman at my wedding. The distillery called us the Bushmills Brothers when we were doing the work for them, which we both quite enjoyed.
And Bushmills isn't so far from Royal Portrush of course (in truth, you're never far away from some of the world's best golf courses wherever you are on the island of Ireland). Viewers from around the world will get some understanding of its greatness when they watch this year's Open – but you really have to play it to understand it. I find it is somewhere you can get completely immersed in the game. Each hole feels like its own little world, totally different from the last, offering unique challenges and those breathtaking views we're so lucky to have. The fifth is probably the most beautiful of all – and I know I'm guilty of bombarding people with photos from it. It's such a wonderful hole to play. It seems like it should be good to score on because it's quite short – but you've got to place your drive perfectly to give yourself the best approach to the green with the White Rocks in the background. Go too far with that and you're out of bounds over the back. Too short, and the slope of the green takes you all the way back to where you were coming from.
Nearer home for me, Royal County Down is my absolute favourite. Joining the club about five years ago was a dream realised, because the place has deep family connections for me and there's something magical about it. I love just ringing up on a Saturday morning, grabbing a bite and joining a random draw. You meet all sorts of people and you always get a great game. The first tee is simply magnificent. Standing up there with the wind coming on from the left and you can see the whole layout of the course unfold – it's hard to beat.
The island of Ireland is more than just where I live. It's in my blood. It's the sound of the wind off the sea, the smell of peat smoke, the laughter of friends on the golf course, and the simple joy of being outdoors. It's home, pure and simple. And you need to visit.
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