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Lisbon Fashion Week: 10 Emerging Designers To Watch
Lisbon Fashion Week: 10 Emerging Designers To Watch

Forbes

time22-03-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

Lisbon Fashion Week: 10 Emerging Designers To Watch

Constanca Entrudo at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 What sets Lisbon Fashion Week apart from others is its unique blend of modern innovation and deep-rooted cultural influences. The twice-annual fashion week highlights not only global trends but also Portugal's rich heritage through fabrics, craftsmanship and design. The fashion extravaganza has a great public program too with events throughout the city open to both locals and visitors. Well-established, excellent brands like Carlos Gil, Luis Onofre, Luís Buchinho Luís Carvalho and Dino Alves are always a joy to see on the runway but it's also great to see how well the organisation promotes new talent. From really young brands showcased in Sangue Nove to labels launched within the past five years or so, here's a selection of ten Portuguese brands to watch. Constanca Entrudo at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Once again, one of the hottest tickets for Lisbon fashion week was Constanca Entrudo. A Central Saint Martins London fashion graduate, Constanca worked for Balmain, Peter Pilotto, and Marques'Almeida before launching her own label in 2019. Last year she showed in a packed basement bar in the old town. This month, the presentation was at a grander space, Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian but managed to retain the edge the brand is known for. Her trademark looks are created from bonded recycled polyester yarns, paired with bold digital prints. Her FW25 collection,'Second Best' is inspired by 1980s Olympic sportswear and silver medals. Silver metallics, a trend across all the European catwalks this year, shone brightly in dresses of glimmering threads. Confetti and firework prints, handwoven fabrics, velvet-like knits, hand pleated glittery taffeta all made for strong, appealing looks. Francisca Nabinho at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 The five young designer finalists in Sangue Novo (new blood), selected at Lisbon Fashion Week in October 2024 were Dri Martins, Duarte Jorge, Francisca Nabinho, Gabriel Silva Barros and Ihanny Luquessa. This month, they presented their collections developed over the last six months, with the mentoring of the jury. Francisca Nabinho's work after graduation in Copenhagen and Italy with brands known for upcycling of deadstock fabrics and garments. contributed to her 'slow fashion' brand. For the catwalk show, her separates used natural materials and traditional techniques such as weaving. Flower details were designed, cut and some silk screened by hand. Inês Barreto at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Recent graduate in Fashion Design from Modatex do Porto, Inês Barreto worked for Alexandra Moura before setting up her own label. She developed a passion for textile experimentation, particularly with liquid latex, which has become a key element in her designs. A long green latex overcoat, yellow mini skirt and vest with hand drawn caricatures were standout runway looks. Mestre Studio, Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Founded in 2023 by Diogo Mestre, following a fine arts degree, the brand's first collection was presented at Sangue Novo that year. It is primarily a knitwear brand. The new collection was inspired by the transition from childhood to adolescence — when toys are replaced by mobile phones, baggy clothes by short skirts, and overalls by denim jeans. This duality is expressed through handcrafted knits and denim jackets and jeans. Barbara Atanasio at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Menswear designer Bárbara Atanásio was a worthy winner of the Sangue Novo RDD textiles award for new designers a year ago. Working with innovative textiles company RDD was a game changer for the designer. Portuguese RDD's focus is on creating premium fabrics and exploring new eco-friendly textile innovations combining a sustainably-driven approach and state-of-the-art technologies. This has fed into Barbara's strong, appealing designs that feature distressed fabrics, upcycling, deconstruction and humor. Arndes at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Another Sangue Nova winner, Ana Rita de Sousa wowed the catwalk audience with her brand, Arndes. In order to reduce production waste, the brand reuses deadstock fabrics for both samples and production of her collections, as well transforming existing garments into new ones. Her impressive collection featured stunning navy leather separates and gorgeous knitwear. Duarte Hajime at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Ana Duarte, founder and designer of the DuarteHajime brand, followed a degree in Fashion Design at the Faculty of Architecture in Lisbon with an MA in Menswear Design at the London College of Fashion. The brand's aim is to 'reuse, reduce and recycle' to create cool sustainable streetwear. Each design is made using fabrics from previous collections or deadstock of eco-friendly materials like Organic and Recycled Cotton, Recycled Polyester and biodegradable Bembergand Seaqual, yarn made from 10% Upcycled Marine Plastic and 90% post-consumer plastic from land sources. The striking designs on the runway featured an attractive palette of black, grey, deep blue, red, mint, and green. A corner of Joana Duarte's studio, Lisbon Joana Duarte's super creative label Behen reworks heritage textiles and craft techniques. Her studio in central Lisbon immerses visitors in traditional Portuguese craftsmanship. Her passion for ethical production and collaboration with artisan communities led her to Jaipur in India, where she worked with traditional techniques. Upon her return to Portugal, after her time in India and completing her Masters degree in London, Joana was inspired by her family's stories, which fueled the creation of her brand. Collaborating closely with artisans all over Portugal, ensuring that their skills and techniques are not only preserved but also passed on to future generations, she prioritizes the use of ethically sourced material. Portuguese Soul presentation at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Leather shoes and accessories from sustainable companies represented by the trade organisation APICCAPS were presented at the newly opened Museu do Design Museum. The museum in an imposing former bank now shows design and fashion from the 19th century to the present. Belcinto, a heritage brand, has recently launched Leather Goods by Belcinto, producing only from surplus materials from previous collectionsreusing them fully, without generating new 'leftovers' in the process. Goncalo Peixoto at Lisbon Fashion Week, March 2025 Goncalo Peixoto has shown his beautiful made-to-order womenswear designs at Lisbon, Milan and London fashion weeks. He's known for his experimental silhouettes, vibrant colors and the use of luxurious materials. Every garment showcases his technical expertise in tailoring, draping and fabric manipulation. On the catwalk this month were gorgeous standout looks in rich burgundy paisley and stripes.

Second Best review – Asa Butterfield excels as the boy who was nearly Harry Potter
Second Best review – Asa Butterfield excels as the boy who was nearly Harry Potter

The Guardian

time16-02-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Guardian

Second Best review – Asa Butterfield excels as the boy who was nearly Harry Potter

Martin has a meltdown during his pregnant partner's 12-week scan. For reasons he can't divine, the prospect of fatherhood is dredging up his childhood demons, specifically the lingering humiliation of being passed over for the film role of Harry Potter when he was 10. These flashbacks trigger a reappraisal of a life lived in the shadow of the Potter franchise that has dogged Martin like an inescapable flock of Dementors. If this sounds like a slender premise, don't be fooled. Adapted by Barney Norris from David Foenkinos's bestselling 2022 French novel, directed by Michael Longhurst, Second Best is a deceptively unassuming play. What starts out like a comical but mundane monologue soon becomes an elegant meditation on the misshapen nature of trauma. Asa Butterfield, making his stage debut, is also deceptively unassuming. Roaming the icy white set like a nervy standup, employing a methodical, Ben Whishaw-esque delivery, he gradually lets slip Martin's whirring anxiety as we begin to glimpse how much agony has become entangled with his lifelong antipathy towards a certain boy wizard. Both the play and its execution excel here, evoking the jangling errors of association that hardwire in the traumatised mind well into adulthood. Two collapsing metal shelves frozen at the edge of the stage serve not only as an indelible reminder of the corner shop where Martin's father suffered a seizure but also, awkwardly, the twin towers of the World Trade Center, which fell the same day. Only its closing moments let the show down, plucking a happy ending from thin air like the golden snitch, with promises of plain sailing and domestic bliss. Better to remember Second Best for the powerful, well-earned conclusion Martin reaches a little earlier on: 'Maybe no one gets over anything.' Second Best is at the Riverside Studios, London, until 1 March

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