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Los Angeles Times
09-05-2025
- General
- Los Angeles Times
8 favorite birria and barbacoa tacos to try from the 101 Best Tacos guide
Customers line up early at Birrieria Barajas in East Compton for plato birria de chivo con pistola, a bowl of spicy, fall-off-the-bone goat meat bathed in consomé. You'll find a taco truck, puesto or taqueria on just about every corner in L.A. The ability to grab a variety of tacos — mariscos, al pastor, carne asada, veggie and creative, non-traditional options — at the drop of a dime can disguise the reality: Taqueros and taqueras spend days preparing and cooking down meats and making salsas before the folded bites are eventually handed over in fresh tortillas to hungry patrons. Lines form at birria and barbacoa stands as the sun rises, but cooks set up hours beforehand, patiently roasting meat and stirring pots of rich consomé. In Arleta, one fourth-generation taquero raises his own lamb on a strict diet of alfalfa and cracked corn, then spit-roasts it in a pit to achieve maximum flavor and tenderness. From smoky Jalisco-style goat birria to Tijuana-inspired birria de res and Hidalgo-influenced lamb barbacoa, here are eight of our favorite birria and barbacoa tacos from the 101 Best Tacos guide. No matching places! Try changing or resetting your filters Showing Places East Pasadena Goat birria Dine In $ Juan Garcia and his family have origins in Jalisco, the birthplace of birria. There, making the long-simmered dish with goat is all but law. Garcia interprets a recipe tracing back to his great-great-grandfather: It involves steaming the meat first before it melds over low heat with spices that include dried and smoked chiles, ginger, chocolate, cinnamon, garlic, black pepper and often, juice from the oranges of one of his uncle's trees. It stands out as extraordinary even in a town rife with birria. As a taco, the chopped mix of ropy-slick textures bonds to a corn tortilla via melted Monterey Jack. The presence of cheese manages to amplify the birria's smokier, brighter tones, so by all means indulge. Find Garcia's masterwork in two locations: on Sundays as a vendor at Smorgasburg L.A., and Tuesday through Saturday at the Pasadena restaurant that serves both the specialties of Goat Mafia and the Indian-Mexican mashups of fellow Smorgasburg regulars Saucy Chick Rotisserie. Route Details Boyle Heights Goat birria Puesto $ You'll probably smell the succulent roast goat from blocks away before Birria El Jaliciense slides into view. The Ramirez family's Saturday-only sidewalk operation started out serving tacos and platos made from one goat each week, and due to popularity, scaled up to three. Family members roast the meat for seven to eight hours, scenting it with a rub of garlic, onion, black pepper, cloves and other spices. Their consomé combines the chivo pan drippings with tomato, garlic and onion, and simmers away in a large pot during service. The family begins preparing at 5 a.m. the day before, and arrives in Boyle Heights early on Saturday mornings to fire up the oven where the morsels of goat gain a golden hue and crispy edges. There are tacos dorados, queso tacos and soft, straightforward tacos filled with the juicy, tender goat in light sauce, and they're all worth ordering. But the best way to taste the robust, lightly gamey flavor of the meat is plato style, where various cuts — such as ribs or shredded meat — come with a side of warm tortillas to assemble your own tacos. The most popular plate is the No. 1, the surtida en plato with consomé, which is Jalisco-style chivo in an ode to patriarch Hector Ramirez's hometown. Hector and his family begin selling around 8 a.m. and continue until the chivo is all gone. Come early and hungry. Route Details Pico-Union Goat birria Dine In $ The Pico-Union neighborhood that houses El Parian has changed immensely since The Times' late restaurant critic Jonathan Gold first reviewed the restaurant in 1990 . El Parian might even appear shuttered at first glance, with wrought-iron box cages over its street-facing windows and door. But enter through the parking lot and you'll find a preserved interior with the same decor that Gold described: a colorful painted map of Mexico along one wall, brick-tile flooring and rows of refrigerators stocked with Mexican beer. The restaurant opened in 1968, and its signature dish is still Jalisco-style goat birria, available by the pound. It comes bobbing in a bowl of ruddy consomé with handmade tortillas, chopped white onion and cilantro sprigs on the side. The goat is earthy, only slightly gamey and so tender that it practically dissolves in your mouth. The tortillas are thick and chewy enough to stand up to a generous serving of the birria. The consomé packs enough flavor to drink on its own. I preferred topping my tacos with the chunky red salsa served with complimentary tortilla chips over the bottled option that arrived with my plate. Route 1528 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90015 Route Details Mid-City Goat birria Food Truck $ I would never turn down a beef birria taco from the Tacos y Birria la Unica truck, but for that distinct, pure animal funk, there's only goat. The meat is stewed until the strands are limp, then nestled into a crisp, bubbly shell cushioned with a glob of melted cheese. The accompanying Styrofoam cup of consomé is tinged with cinnamon and clove and cluttered with stray bits of goat. A squirt of the red salsa powers through the richness of the added cheese. There is only one way to describe the state I find myself in mid-goat birria quesataco with my chin glistening with consomé and my mouth full of crunch, meat juice and cheese. Feral. When you leave, there should be a faint orange rim around your mouth and a graveyard of red-stained napkins to pile into the trash bin. The truck in Mid-City is preferred for personal geographic reasons, but the one that parks in Boyle Heights is just as stellar. Route 5871 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90019 Route Details Venice Beef birria Dine In $ One of the most compelling taquero origin stories in L.A. is that of Teddy Vazquez's role in helping establish the city's current obsession with Tijuana-style birria de res. Vazquez, who picked up the style while working in TJ, famously started out by hiding his birria in his car trunk while driving a ride-share, allowing the cinnamon-y scent of the dish to waft toward his passengers. One thing led to another, and by 2018, Teddy's Red Tacos was born as a truck parked on the phantom train tracks of Slauson Avenue. That truck has remained as Teddy's expanded into a network of 10 locations. The rapid growth has resulted in inconsistent quality at some of the spots. But in Venice, Teddy's birria and his consomé-dipped 'red' tortillas feel almost re-articulated. Reacquaint yourself here, where locals are proud of their Teddy's, and lines are long on weekends. A few tacos and an agua fresca on the patio are a perfect cap to a Venice beach day. Route 46 Windward Ave., Venice, California 90291 Website Route Details Arleta Lamb Puesto $ Lamb, when slow-roasted in a pit in the ground, sparks an animalistic instinct in the carnivore's soul. One bite of glistening meat wrapped in earthy corn tortilla evokes the taste of a morning at the rancho in the highlands of Mexico. This experience is plentiful with Barbacoa Ramirez, set up under a tarp on weekend mornings near the Arleta DMV. Look for the taqueros wearing shirts reflecting the Ramirez family's roots to the town of Atotonilco El Grande, Hidalgo. These tacos, with freshly hand-made tortillas, are a prize of craftsmanship and possibly the finest barbacoa to be found in Southern California. Why? It's in the unyielding devotion of Gonzalo Ramirez, a fourth-generation master in the Hidalgo style who raises and butchers his own lambs in the Central Valley , feeding them only alfalfa and cracked corn. Enjoy the barbacoa also as a hearty consomé, as pancita, or ask for a taco of moronga, lamb blood sausage unlike any I've ever tasted, seasoned with loads of oregano, chiles and onion by an Hidalguense sheep farmer in L.A. An unexpected masterpiece. Route 14263 Hoyt St., Arleta, California 91331 Route Details Watts Barbacoa Food Truck $ As the name suggests, many head to this family-run food truck for husk-wrapped tamales packed with red pork, spicy green chicken, cheese and jalapeño, with sweet options such as pineapple and strawberry on the weekends. But don't miss out on tacos, prepared with the same level of care and expertise. After opening the city's only restaurant dedicated to Afro Mexican culinary traditions that trace back to La Costa Chica in Guerrero state, chef-owner Maria Elena Lorenzo has since downsized to a truck that parks in Watts. The quesatacos feature fried and folded corn tortillas stuffed with shredded beef barbacoa that drips consomé, gooey cheese, chopped cilantro and raw white onion — squeeze a wedge of lime on top for a bite that bounces among crunchy, fatty, rich and acidic. The street tacos are similarly addictive, with the usual carne asada and pollo offered alongside cuts of delicate cachete and nubbly cabeza. Tied baggies of salsa are provided alongside chile, limes and rounds of cucumber, but make sure you add a cup of thick, rust-hued consomé that bobs with bright cilantro leaves and diced onions for dipping before every bite. And if you're stopping by during the summer when pescadillas — deep-fried fish tacos — are on the menu, add a couple to your order. Route Click for directions Website Route Details East Compton Goat birria Puesto $ Robert Barajas Jr. wakes up every morning at 2 a.m. to start making birria horneada — 'ovened,' he says. 'We used to make it in the ground, now we use conventional ovens in order to have that crispy taste.' It is never simmered, adds Barajas. His father started the business several years ago, serving birria de chivo much the way the family has been making it for three generations in Tecalitlán, Jalisco. Birrieria Barajas opened first as a puesto on Compton Boulevard and then launched a truck across the street, parked in front of Eddie's Liquor every day but Monday, beginning at 6:30 a.m.'When we started we wouldn't even sell half a goat,' Barajas says. 'By word of mouth and faith we started to get going week by week. There are a lot of people that make birria. But it has to be goat, and it's supposed to have your special mole, a kind of rub, your own recipe. Maybe that's why we have good clientele, because we make the rub, everything, every day.' The most popular order is the plato birria de chivo con pistola, a bowl of the spicy, fall-off-the-bone goat meat bathed in consomé that comes with a shank and tortillas, onions, cilantro, radishes, chiles and lime wedges for composing your own tacos. Of course there are regular tacos, and there are tacos dorados, folded and fried, with cheese if you want quesabirria. Every order comes with a complimentary small fried bean taco, and the beans are a recipe from Barajas' grandmother, who died earlier this year. 'My grandmother told my dad to 'give customers a nice gesture,'' Barajas says. And once a month Barajas Sr. still prepares montalayo, a fried ball of goat stomach with sausage-like tripe stuffing; order it chopped into a taco. Route 4214 E. Compton Blvd., Compton, California 90221 Route Details
Los Angeles Times
27-02-2025
- Business
- Los Angeles Times
10 Black-owned dessert spots in L.A. for a little something sweet
Family-owned Crustees bakery in View Park-Windsor Hills stands out with sweet and savory pies, including key lime, lemon meringue, peach cobbler and a curry chicken pot pie. Feb. 27, 2025 1:37 PM PT 'I just need a little something sweet.' It was a predictable post-dinner refrain growing up, stated matter-of-factly by my mother, Southern grandmother or aunts, as though they were prescribing themselves dessert. The assertion was made regardless of the meal we'd just eaten, whether it was a simple weeknight dinner or a generous spread at a holiday gathering. The necessity of dessert — nothing too heavy, just a taste of something sweet — never waned. Now I find myself doing the same thing, searching for the ideal treat that will perfectly round out my meal. In those moments, I gravitate to the classic Southern desserts I was raised on: cinnamon-swirled Sock-It-To-Me cake, crumbly 7-Up poundcake with a delicate lemon-lime glaze, peach cobbler and sweet potato pie with flaky, buttery crusts that prove just as delicious as the filling. Thankfully, Los Angeles has plenty of Black-owned dessert shops ready to curb my craving. On South Central Avenue, a landmark bakery now in its third generation of family ownership represents the largest manufacturer of sweet potato pie on the West Coast. In View Park-Windsor Hills, another family-run spot specializing in sweet and savory pies proudly serves the neighborhood they've called home for years. The Black-led sweets scene is also expanding with fresh bakeries that bring new influences, including a French-inspired cookie shop in West Adams and a hip-hop-themed sticky bun pop-up at Smorgasburg L.A. Here are 10 Black-owned spots to visit next time you need something sweet to complete your meal: No matching places! Try changing or resetting your filters Showing Places Downtown L.A. Bakery $ This family-owned dessert pop-up launched during the pandemic when a cinnamon roll craving hit and all of the go-to spots were closed. Co-owner and head baker Lindsay Sears-McDonald set about perfecting a recipe, and after testing it out on family and friends, decided to launch a cinnamon roll-focused pop-up alongside her husband, Lawrence, and son Dom. The menu draws inspiration from old-school hip-hop acts, including the classic Big Poppa, loaded with cinnamon and cream cheese, and the Missy Elliott that's topped with strawberry shortcake crumbles and fresh strawberries. All About the Cinnamon joined Smorgasburg L.A.'s Sunday lineup in 2023 and is still going strong, with plans to open a bakery in Sherman Oaks this spring. The bricks-and-mortar will feature an expanded menu that spans savory items including a pizza bun named after Alicia Keys and a soft Philadelphia-style pretzel bun dubbed the Will Smith. The buns can also be purchased online or via Instagram DM. Route Details Harvard Heights Bakery $$ By Danielle Dorsey This is the dessert shop for cheesecake lovers. Owner Amili Williams blends his grandmother's recipe with a variety of flavors and in a host of desserts, including pecan pie cheesecake, banana pudding cheesecake and a peach cobbler cheesecake, all available by the slice or as whole pies. If you can't decide, try the Cali Love sampler that offers one slice of strawberry, chocolate chip, peach cobbler and sweet potato cheesecake. Like many food businesses, Cali Love Pie has struggled to stay afloat and has an ongoing GoFundMe campaign to raise money for necessary repairs and new equipment. Route 1570 S. Western Ave., Los Angeles, California 90006 Route Details View Park-Windsor Hills Bakery $ R&B hits blare from a standing speaker that props open the door to Crustees, a quick-service restaurant and bakery on Slauson Avenue in View Park-Windsor Hills. After first gaining popularity at local farmers markets for its peach cobbler with a flaky, two-layer pie crust, head baker Sharon Washington, alongside her husband, Carl, and son Steven, opened their bricks-and-mortar six years ago in the neighborhood they've called home for years. The menu has since expanded with pecan, key lime, lemon meringue, banana pudding ('We have the best banana pudding,' says Steven.) and savory pies that put creative twists on classic options, including a chicken pot pie with a Thai-inspired curry sauce and a shepherd's pie topped with cheesy truffle mashed potatoes, plus jalapeño-cheddar cornbread, turkey chili and a gumbo pie that's only available on weekends. The 5-inch pies are perfect when you want to satisfy a sweet tooth in one sitting. The titular peach is bright with nutmeg and cinnamon, with a thick crust made with vegetable shortening, but the key lime that features a buttery graham cracker crust, perfectly tart key lime curd and is topped with tiny swirls of whipped cream and zested with lime, ended up being my favorite. Route Details West Adams Bakery $ By Danielle Dorsey The menu at Lara Adekoya's West Adams cookie-centric bakery changes with the seasons and as new inspiration strikes the baker-owner who started baking during the pandemic and opened a bricks-and-mortar last year. As our version of winter gradually gives way to spring, new additions include a peanut butter and Nutella option and Neapolitan and Meyer lemon shortbread cookies. Adekoya's craggy, palm-size cookies also come in classic snickerdoodle, oatmeal raisin with walnut and oozy chocolate chip flavors, plus house creations that blend French and floral influence, including lavender vanilla chai and a cookie with raspberry, pistachio and white chocolate. The shop is close to a number of neighborhood spots, including Alta Adams, Bee Taqueria and Mian, in case you need a sweet treat after a meal. On March 23, Adekoya will host a citywide scavenger hunt to celebrate the bakery's one-year anniversary. Route Details Pasadena Southern Desserts $ By Danielle Dorsey Opened since 2002, the Gourmet Cobbler Factory has supplied more than one of my family's holiday dinners with a catering-size tray of peach cobbler, particularly when my aunt would host at her former Altadena home not far from the Pasadena bakery. The buttery, honey-baked double crust gives way to soft peaches warm with cinnamon, though apple, blackberry, blueberry, cherry, lemon meringue and mixed-berry cobblers are also on the menu, along with sweet potato and pecan pie. A full barbecue menu is available if you decide to dine-in, but ending your meal with a slice of cobbler served a la mode is a must. Route Details Inglewood Bakery American $ By Danielle Dorsey Before you enter Ms Ruby's Bakery in downtown Inglewood, you'll see a sticker in the front window boasting red velvet cake as the specialty item, with a thick slice of the dessert painted underneath. You can walk in and order it by the slice or call in advance for a whole cake, in addition to popular Southern desserts like Sock-It-to-Me cake, pecan and sweet potato pies and lemon poundcake. If you're in the mood for something savory, burgers and tacos are made to order and meals are served with natural-cut fries generously doused in a seasoning blend. Ms Ruby likely will be busy behind the counter when you visit but makes a point of greeting every customer. Route Details Mid-Wilshire Soul Food Californian $$ By Danielle Dorsey At My 2 Cents, chef-owner and homegrown Angeleno Alisa Reynolds combines Southern staples with local, seasonal produce and regional trends. For example, most of the menu is gluten-free, with plenty of plant-based options. For dessert, I direct your attention to the strawberry cake made by Reynolds' sister Teresa Fountain, perfectly moist and light with hand-whipped icing and fresh strawberries that come through in every bite of the blush-pink cake with no added food dye. Also baked by Fountain, the brown-sugar caramel cake and peach cobbler prove just as impressive. Cakes can often be made gluten-free or vegan with advance notice. Route Details Baldwin Hills/Crenshaw Bakery $ By Danielle Dorsey The dessert shop from 'Cupcake Wars' winners Catarah Coleman and Shoneji Robison anchors the entrance of the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza, with a few tables for enjoying treats on the spot. Cupcakes are the primary allure here, in flavors such as vanilla buttercream, red velvet and sweet potato that you can mix and match in packs ranging from two to 12. Cakes and pies are available by the slice or whole with advance notice, including lemon poundcake, coffee cake, German chocolate pie and sweet potato pie. My go-to order is the butter cookie that's reminiscent of a tea cake and described as 'a chocolate chip cookie without the chocolate chips,' with a golden-brown edge and a soft, raised middle. It's simple, satisfying and surprisingly addictive — I always buy more than I can finish in one sitting but immediately freeze a few so I won't be tempted to ignore my full stomach and keep eating. Route Details Inglewood Bakery $ Teacher-turned-baker Karolyn Plummer started pursuing her passion for baking in 2000 and landed in an Inglewood strip mall across from SoFi Stadium in 2019, with additional locations in Torrance and Menifee, as well as two franchise locations in Atlanta. The menu includes staple desserts within the Black community, including 7-Up poundcake, red velvet cake and a range of cakes and cookies bursting with pecans. When I'm feeling nostalgic, the light and not-too-sweet pound cake is my go-to, but the coffee cake with a thick crumbly crust pairs perfectly with a strong cup of coffee If I arrive on the earlier side. The peach cobbler nachos — a new item featuring a pile of crispy, buttery pie crusts coated in cinnamon and loaded with caramelized peaches and whipped cream — are also a must order. Route Details Central-Alameda Bakery $ This South L.A. bakery specializing in Southern desserts is a neighborhood institution that's now in its third generation of family ownership. Led by Al and Jeanette Pickens, the bakery has grown to become the largest supplier of sweet potato pies on the West Coast and it's easy to see why. The crust is perfectly flaky and the sweet potato filling is whipped to a light consistency. I had every intention of only taking a bite or two when I unwrapped my personal-size pie and before I knew it, I was scraping crumbs of buttery crust from the aluminum tin in attempts to extend my sweet treat. A variety of pies, cobblers, cheesecakes and cakes are available to order whole or by the slice, and old-fashioned tea cakes occasionally make an appearance. Route Details Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
