23-05-2025
You can get a taco, but why? This new family-run Boise restaurant is much more
An empty space known for pizza restaurants returned to life recently — with tacos among the menu options.
But it's not all the ubiquitous ethnic cuisine most Boise diners know.
La Catracha opened about a week ago at 7330 W. State St. A locally owned business, it serves 'Hispanic food from Central America,' a window poster explains. Or, as a banner outside explains, 'tacos and more.'
Located in Gary Lane Plaza — at the perpetually busy intersection of Glenwood and State — La Catracha will feel familiar to anyone who strolled inside when it was Alpine Pizza. Or for many years before that, PizzalChik.
Except now Central American flags hang on the wall — along with Old Glory. Stuffed macaw toys dangle from above. And Spanish-language music plays in the background.
On a recent weekday, Sofia Lopez was the lunch-hour face of La Catracha. Taking orders and hustling food to tables, Lopez explained that she's from Guatemala. Her mother, owner Yesica Fuentes, is from Honduras and runs the kitchen — along with her grandma, she added with a smile.
'All food,' the large menu behind the counter proclaims, 'is homemade.'
Fans of Mexican restaurant standbys will find tacos ($3 each), burritos ($12), tortas ($13) and quesadillas ($12), made with proteins such as carne asada, adobada, pollo and chorizo.
At La Catracha, it feels more gratifying to lean into something less common. Perhaps pupusas ($13), which are a Salvadoran tradition, or a Honduran dish such as baleadas ($7).
Another staple from Honduras, pollo con tajadas ($20), is the unofficial signature entree. 'It's the most common one,' Lopez said. 'It's my favorite one.'
A pile of comfort food, the recipe centers on bone-in fried chicken. Not that I noticed the tender bird at first. It was completely smothered by a shredded-cabbage salad and Salvadoran salsa. Hidden beneath it all, like a foundation of deliciousness? A layer of fried plantains. The sweetness, texture and soft crunch made every forkful satisfying.
Oh, and about that chopped salsa, known as chimol. There are no tongue-scorching surprises at La Catracha. 'If you want spicy, we will add spicy,' Lopez said. 'But nothing on the menu is spicy.' Craving a little heat, I squeezed an unintentional mega-blast of bottled hot sauce onto a bite: Don Julio Salsa Picante Chiles Rojos. That, too, was relatively tame. (La Catracha might be your Nana's new favorite restaurant!)
A choice that will attract curious taco junkies? Tacos Hondurenos ($13 for three). After all, who wouldn't want to try the Honduran version? I had to. It turns out they're a lot like taquitos — chicken in fresh-tasting corn tortillas that are rolled and fried, topped with goodness such as cojita cheese and more cabbage salad. Tasty for sure.
For drinks, grab a can of Coke or Pepsi, a bottle of Tropical banana soda — or one of the aguas frescas ($4).
Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays, La Catracha also serves a breakfast of ripe plantain, beans, cheese, sour cream, eggs and avocado for $12. On weekends, it also will offer menudo, tamales and caldo de res (Mexican beef stew). Remember — homemade.
Casual, seated dining appears to be the primary driver at La Catracha, but takeout is available, too. (Phone: 208-497-8243.)
Why be in a hurry? Kick back at a table. Taking time to appreciate Central American food — and the family running La Catracha — will only add to the flavor.
