12 hours ago
Swap Amalfi For This Lesser Crowded Coastline Right Nextdoor
The city of Sorrento gives its name to the Sorrentina peninsula, along which both coastlines run.
Hotel Mediterraneo
Summer has come to Italy's Amalfi Coast, and with it tourist crowds that clog the narrow streets of Amalfi and Positano, crammed buses caught in traffic jams along the serpentine coastal road, and sky-high hotel and restaurant prices.
While this south-facing coastline has long been a visitor hotspot, its north-facing counterpart—known as the Costiera Sorrentina—offers similar stunning natural beauty, with a quieter, more authentic atmosphere thrown into the bargain.
The city of Sorrento gives its name to the Sorrentina peninsula, along which both coastlines run. The city is often considered only a 'gateway to the Amalfi Coast', as tourists taking the train from Naples alight here for buses to towns like Positano and Amalfi.
But as those iconic destinations on the south-facing coastline are feeling the strain of the tourist arrivals, Sorrento is coming into its own. It is bigger than either Amalfi or Positano and a city that lives in winter much as it does in summer. It doesn't rely so heavily on tourism as the Amalfi Coast, so it's easier to explore beyond the usual lemon-themed souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants.
Here's how to spend a long weekend between the artisans' boutiques, authentic trattorie and quiet luxury hotels of Sorrento.
Even in peak seasons, there are only a few streets of Sorrento where you need your elbows out. The narrow streets of the historic center are a mini maze, but between the growing number of souvenir outlets, you can still find fascinating stalwart stores like the Embroidery Center with handwoven tablecloths and drapes.
The surrounding streets are a pleasure to stroll, particularly the wide Corso Italia, where families gather around benches under the trees and couples peruse the boutiques' window displays.
A view of Tasso Square in the old town of Sorrento, Campania, Italy
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Running next to it is the oldest street in Sorrento, dating from the 16th century. The narrow, shaded Via Santa Maria della Pietà is Neapolitan-esque in its air of ancient mystery, with big arched doorways to houses and glimpses into tiny barber shops and a cubbyhole tattoo parlor.
The street leads to the Cathedral of Saints Philip and James, with a neo-Romanesque facade and ornate Baroque interior. It is decorated with celestial frescoes and houses a vast nativity scene—a traditional craft construction particularly popular in nearby Naples known as a presepe.
The church of St Francis is also worth visiting for the peaceful cloister with graceful Gothic arches and creeping greenery. Next door is the Villa Comunale di Sorrento, a large, bayside park with clifftop views. From here, you can take the steep, zigzagging staircase down to the beaches and azure sea.
From the rooftop terrace bar of Hotel Mediterraneo, the sun sets in peach and rose streaks between the distant island of Ischia and the dark peak of Mount Vesuvius. The five-star hotel enjoys a prime position on the coastline, a little away from the bustle of the city center and high on the cliffside.
It is still a family-run establishment, which gives it the warm, relaxed atmosphere missing from some of the Amalfi Coast's prestigious chain hotels. It means the hotel appeals to repeat visitors, generally Italians in-the-know but a growing international crowd too, who have their favorite seaview rooms or poolside lounger.
The five-star hotel enjoys a prime position on the coastline.
Vincenzo Tambasco
The hotel is also charmingly 'local', with bedside tables made from Vesuvian rock and lamps shaped like the classic fishing lights on traditional boats. On arrival, you find sparkling wine and freshly pressed orange juice in your room for a DIY mimosa. At breakfast, you can sample cheese, oil and jams from local producers, while the poolside bar serves a pizza thick with melted local provolone cheese freshened with lemon zest.
Dinner in the panoramic restaurant with views of the bay and Mount Vesuvius is another Sorrentino culinary adventure. The 'Tradizione' menu—a homage to cooking aficionado Nonna Etta who founded the hotel—begins with a delightful aubergine parmigiana mousse imitating a very plausible tomato. Then comes artichokes from nearby Paestum and the iconic gnocchi alla sorrentina with a crispy, flamed parmesan topping.
The palette cleanser is a popping sherbert lemon jelly served inside a lemon rind, and dessert is a rhum babà duo—one in the traditional style and one reinvented. Both the starter and dessert are served on a charcoal grey, cone-shaped dish with a red glazed interior in a poetic imitation of Mount Vesuvius on the skyline.
The Vesuvius inspired plates echoing the volcano on the skyline.
Hotel Mediterraneo
Don't miss a meal at the summery colored Terrazza Mediterranea, the hotel's informal dining option open all day. It has a fun, genuine atmosphere, given that it's open to the public, too, and sits at the end of a square that juts out over the sea where residents and tourists alike stroll.
To enjoy the sunny days, guests have access to a beach club at the base of the cliff just in front of the hotel, accessed by a lift. Here, amiable staff are on hand to bring you champagne and snacks, and offer expert advice on the best sunbathing locations and spots for a sea dip. After a day by the water, head up to the sky bar for creative cocktails and live music.
