15-05-2025
This ancient port in southern England is having a 21st-century renaissance
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Mention Hastings and people still refer to the battle of 1066, which is a shame given the town has changed so much — since the 11th century, certainly, but over the past decade, too. Like many British seaside resorts, Hastings and its neighbour, St Leonards-on-Sea, had their heyday in the Victorian era before falling into a period of decline. Their revivals in recent years have been huge and heartening. These are places packed with independent shops, restaurants, pubs and boutique hotels, so many that a week-long visit would hardly even scratch the surface. Hastings is popular in the spring and summer, when the sunlit sea is turquoise, the seafront rides are in full swing and the entire town heads out for Jack in the Green — a day of folk dancing, parades and merriment held on May Day. But in the winter, too, it takes on an all-new Zen, when pubs feel even cosier and the sunsets even more sublime. One of Hastings' biggest attractions is the lightbulb-garlanded Old Town, with its timber-framed pubs and antiques shops. Photograph by Alamy; David Ross What's the best way to explore?
One of Hastings' biggest attractions is the lightbulb-garlanded Old Town, with its timber-framed pubs and antiques shops. Squeeze into Roberts Rummage to browse ceramics and the treasures of the £1 box before strolling down to The Stade. Hastings is proudly home to one of Britain's oldest fishing fleets, and you can still catch colourful wooden boats being hauled onto this stretch of shingle come late afternoon. Just behind are the 'net shops' — tall black timber huts used for fishing net storage since the 1830s, some of which are so unique in design they've been granted Grade II-listed status. From here, it's mere paces to the rotating exhibitions at Hastings Contemporary gallery.
Make time for a session at Samphire Sauna on Hastings Pier — it has great sunset views and direct access to the beach below for a dip. If you're keen to venture further, windswept Pett Level beach is six miles away and ideal for a low-tide dog walk or rockpool splash. Those with time to spare can walk there from the Old Town, following rolling coastal paths. The surrounding hills are dotted with vineyards — Tillingham is the best known, but a tour with Vine & Country will take you to local favourites such as Charles Palmer and Oastbrook, where you'll sit down for guided tastings among the vines. Bayte restaurant offers a seasonal menu of fish and pasta dishes. Photograph by Steven Painter The Looking Glass Lodge in Fairlight is sleek, contemporary and set in a patch of ancient woodland in the High Weald, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Photograph by the Looking Glass Lodge Where's good for the catch of the day?
The food scene here extends to some excellent options in St Leonards, so leave time for both towns. In Hastings, you can grab fresh seafood by the fishing huts on The Stade. For a sit-down meal, try the fish and chips at Maggie's, a long-standing cafe with spindle-back chairs and swooping seagull views. The Crown pub is the spot for a locally brewed pint, while further along the seafront, in St Leonards, you'll find Half Man Half Burger. The pioneers behind the cool joint took a punt settling in this once rundown town in 2015, but dozens of restaurants have followed. Bayte is a recent arrival, with velvet sofas and a seasonal menu of fish and pasta dishes. For breakfast? It'd have to be Sleeper Bagel — crammed with everything from salt beef to salmon. Where are the best places to stay?
The Old Rectory is a 14th-century property turned boutique B&B, close to the Old Town. It has its own spa, while the rooms are decorated with French-chic furniture and chandeliers.
One of Hastings' latest additions is the Doghouse Inn: rooms above the Seadog Inn, right by the station. The pub is hugely popular thanks to its Irish music nights, and the rooms — all seaweed-green walls and fringed lamps — are proving to be the same.
If you don't mind self-catering and the 10-minute taxi ride, try the Looking Glass Lodge in Fairlight. Sleek and contemporary, the glass-fronted cabin is set in a patch of ancient woodland in the High Weald, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
