5 days ago
Tonga is one of the world's most devout keepers of the Sabbath — but some say there's more to faith
As Sunday dawns in Tonga's capital, an unbroken silence blankets the streets.
Almost every shop in Nuku'alofa — including petrol stations — stays closed.
Only church bells eventually disturb the quiet, as it comes time to worship.
"Everyone is at home preparing and getting ready for church.
"[It's] a blessing we all have."
Sunday trading is common in many countries where Christianity is the predominant religion.
But Tongans remain some of the world's most devoted keepers of the Sabbath, a day of rest that falls on Sunday for most Christian denominations.
It's even enshrined in the Tongan constitution, which says the day must be kept holy.
"No person shall practise his trade or profession or conduct any commercial undertaking on the Sabbath Day except according to law," it says.
But the country's so-called "Sunday Law" is back in public debate in the devoutly Christian nation.
It started with a statement from Tonga's King Tupou VI, read to its parliament last month, calling on the nation to keep the Sabbath holy.
Now, some in Tonga are asking whether the nation is strict enough in observing the Sabbath.
But while some questioned whether Tonga should remove the few exemptions it allows — including those for restaurants that open for tourists — others said there are more meaningful ways to practise their faith.
By mid-morning on Sunday, Tonga's islands finally stir.
The roads are lined with people walking to church, wearing their "Sunday best", in the truest sense of the phrase.
'Aiona, Mormon missionary elder, is one of them, and speaking to the ABC, he urged Tongans to hold fast to the Sabbath tradition.
"It is so important we keep the Lord's day fully."
Only staff at hospitals, the police force and utilities can work on Sunday under Tongan law.
There are also exemptions for hotels and restaurants serving tourists — although Tongans also often eat out after church on Sundays.
But Tonga Police has received complaints about other businesses operating illegally on Sunday, and issued a firm public statement this month.
"Let's respect and live by our culture, our faith and the law by keeping Sunday holy."
A debate has also unfolded on social media, where some Tongans have questioned the ban on Sunday trading.
"Holiness is not a ritual confined to a day, but a way of life," one commenter said.
"Until righteousness governs our actions and honesty guides our institutions, our outward displays of devotion ring hollow and empty!"
Another said restaurants not attached to tourism accommodation should close on Sunday.
Tourism operators argue that without their exemptions, the industry would suffer.
"The purpose of the resort is to cater for the people," Oholei Beach Resort owner Simana Kami said.
"Otherwise, there will be no more tourists [coming] to Tonga."
Mr Kami faced opposition when his resort started operating on Sunday.
As Cyclone Rene hit Tonga in 2010, a church minister told him it would wipe out his business as punishment.
But it didn't, and Mr Kami said operating on Sunday doesn't conflict with his faith — rather, it supports it.
Mr Kami said practising faith isn't about stopping activity on Sunday, and that many who observe the Sabbath ignore Christian teachings throughout the week.
"That's sad for me … People are hypocrites."
In churches throughout Tonga, the voices of the congregations swell as services get under way.
Afterwards, families have the day to themselves.
On her way back from a service, Talita Kefu agreed that intent matters more than appearance when it comes to faith.
"Development with time is progressing, but Tonga is unique in the sense that we still observe the Sabbath.
"It comes down to individual choices."
Speaking in Nuku'alofa, Lano Fonua said he also sees the Sabbath as special — but believes each person can honour it in their own way.
He said it was possible to preserve the spirit of the Sabbath while adapting it to modern life.
"It makes Tonga special on Sunday … As long as it's respectful and done in the right way," Mr Fonua said.
"Taking your family out after church to go for Chinese food, what's wrong with that if it's being done from the right place?"
Mr Fonua and his family were going to spend much of their Sunday having a family picnic at the beach.
"That's what makes it special for us."
It's not the first time Tonga's strict observance of the Sabbath has generated so much discussion.
A government decision to ban bakers from opening on Sunday in 2016 raised outcry.
In that case, bakeries unsuccessfully pushed to keep their exemption, which started in 1982 when a cyclone hit and the population needed food.
For now, it's unclear whether the new groundswell of debate about Tonga's Sunday Law will reach the floor of parliament.
Speaker of the Legislative Assembly Lord Fakafanua said the constitution was clear about the Sabbath.
He said no reforms to Tonga's Sunday Law had yet been submitted to parliament — which will dissolve soon for elections due in November.
"If they want to make any decision, legislative reforms, [MPs] may submit private bills … but that's something that I haven't heard about.
"We will see in the next term."
