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New York Times
05-03-2025
- General
- New York Times
A Turkey Meatloaf With a Little Somethin'-Somethin'
Maybe it's my stint as an interim restaurant critic, but lately I can't stop thinking about meatloaf. It's not the sort of thing you find on a menu all that often. As a kid, I ate it on the regular at my grandmother's house — a thick, ketchup-slicked slice, surrounded by a starch and a green, a good square meal in that classic, midcentury way. And now I've been missing it. To celebrate the meatloaves of yore, and, even better, the glorious, pickle-shingled sandwiches you can make from them, I came up with a recipe for a turkey meatloaf, which I adapted from the Seattle chef Renee Erickson's cookbook, 'Sunlight and Breadcrumbs.' Seasoned with Parmesan, orange zest and garlic and drizzled with red wine, this is a robust, brawny brick that's brightened by the fruity acidity of the wine, which also helps keep it moist. If you can find ground turkey that's not too lean — I used 94 percent, which is a mix of dark and white meat — you'll get the juiciest loaf. Or feel free to substitute beef or pork (or a mix, which is what Renee does). Serve it hot from the oven, maybe next to a tangle of Craig Claiborne's beloved generously buttered parsleyed noodles, and some sautéed kale for the squarest of square meals. Featured Recipe View Recipe → If what you need is a square meal that's pescatarian, how about starting with Naz Deravian's roasted dill salmon? She calls for a pantry-friendly mix of maple syrup, dill (fresh or dried), turmeric and garlic for the marinade, spooned over a large, center-cut fillet. (If you use smaller fillets, just reduce the cooking time slightly.) This bubbles into a heady glaze as the salmon bakes, its rich flesh firming just enough to flake with a fork. Square it up with pretty much any side, though I especially like things that can go into the oven at the same time, like Ali Slagle's hot honey-glazed roasted root vegetables and Lidey Heuck's roasted broccoli, tossed with a subtle touch of garlic. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
New York Times
28-02-2025
- General
- New York Times
This Meatloaf Has a Brilliant Twist — and Makes a Mean Sandwich
The iconic slice of meatloaf, nestled next to a mound of mashed potatoes and peas, is ensconced in the American mind as a comfort food ideal. But that's never been the case for me. I like my meatloaf best as a sandwich, preferably tucked between slices of buttered toast and shingled with sweet, sliced pickles and sharp raw onions. I learned this from my mother, who learned it from my grandmother, so it can't be wrong. Eating meatloaf hot from the oven for dinner is merely its first step toward final glory, which is to be meatloaf sandwiches for lunch the next day. Recipe: Turkey Meatloaf With Parmesan and Red Wine Even with this in mind, I was surprised when I came across the meatloaf recipe in Renee Erickson's latest cookbook, 'Sunlight and Breadcrumbs.' The Seattle chef and restaurateur (who owns the Walrus and the Carpenter, among others) not only concurs with my family's meatloaf practice, but goes a step further. She doesn't eat it hot at all, but bakes it the day before, as she writes in the recipe headnote, 'in anticipation of the most delicious sandwiches, like a low-effort pâté of sorts that shines with soft-centered white bread and a leaf or two of extra-crunchy lettuce.' I may quibble with her sandwich construction (to me, buttered toast is a must), but I eagerly gave her meatloaf a try. It was a lot more intensely flavorful than most meatloaf recipes, with anchovies, garlic, Pecorino Romano cheese and grated orange zest kneaded into the ground meat. The biggest flex was that, instead of glazing the top with ketchup, she uses a combination of tomato purée and dry red wine. The wine turns out to be key; it increases the juiciness of the finished loaf and adds a fruity acidity that balances its richness. Not only did Ms. Erickson's recipe make one of the best meatloaf sandwiches I'd ever had, it was even terrific served hot from the oven when the meat is at its most crumbly and tender. For this version I've adapted the recipe slightly, eliminating the anchovies (it didn't need them, believe it or not), reducing the amount of wine (I kept some for sipping with dinner) and using all ground turkey in place of her mix of turkey, beef and pork (but you do you). It makes for a classic-looking loaf with an outsize flavor that's as comforting as meatloaf gets — mashed potatoes optional. Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
