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Middle East Eye
03-06-2025
- Politics
- Middle East Eye
Syria after Assad: Returning to Damascus after years of war, I found hope
Blacklisted by the Assad regime since 2014 for my consistently vocal opposition, it was with great relief that I landed at Damascus International Airport last month to enter the new Syria. Evidently, few British women travel alone to Damascus these days, not least because the UK government designates the entire country as a 'red' zone, advising against all travel and thereby invalidating any travel insurance. After buying my visa, I hit a problem at the immigration desk in Damascus. My blacklisting flashed up on the computer system, meaning I could not receive a passport stamp and be allowed in like everyone else. During the Assad era, all my visa applications were refused after 2014, but I managed to enter in 2018 "under the radar" so to speak as part of a group invited by the Syriac Orthodox Church, under a group visa. This April 2025 visit was the first time I'd visited since then, in April 2018. New MEE newsletter: Jerusalem Dispatch Sign up to get the latest insights and analysis on Israel-Palestine, alongside Turkey Unpacked and other MEE newsletters Instead, I was taken to a different part of the airport for an interview with a security official, who accepted my explanation of the blacklisting but said he needed to check whether I was also on an Interpol list. I laughed out loud at the thought that I might be considered an international criminal. In the end, I was allowed in after about an hour's delay, but the official told me to contact his office upon departure to ensure the matter was resolved once and for all. Throughout my time in Damascus, I stayed in the house I had bought in the Old City in 2005, living alongside my Syrian friends who have been there for the last decade. The house has collected its fair share of empty cartridge shells in the courtyard, but is otherwise essentially unscathed. Unlike Homs and Aleppo, the Old City of Damascus never suffered aerial bombardment by the Assad regime and allied Russian air forces. For the first few years of the war, my house served as a haven for five refugee families after their own homes in the suburbs were destroyed. Then, in 2014, it was stolen - like so many houses all over Syria - by greedy opportunists taking advantage of absentee landlords. Thankfully, I managed to reclaim it. Museums open but neglected My impressions upon my latest visit were of a city exhausted by war, polluted and dirty, choked with traffic - a city whose infrastructure was in desperate need of TLC. Yet the mood of all my friends was overwhelmingly positive. Friends who left as refugees and settled in Turkey in 2012 are returning with their families. They see it as their duty to help rebuild the country. Investment opportunities abound for small-scale projects unhampered by sanctions. The author is pictured at her house in Damascus in April 2025 (Photo supplied by Diana Darke) Revisiting Damascus's cultural sites, both in the Old City and beyond, I found them all open, well-staffed and selling tickets, just as they had been before the war - although museums like the medical school of Bimaristan al-Nuri were somewhat tired and neglected, its once-lush courtyard now bare and dusty. The valuable Qurans of the Museum of Arabic Epigraphy were still in storage in the basement of the National Museum, where they had been taken for safekeeping during the war. The National Museum itself only had its Classical and Hellenistic sections open, although I was told other areas would reopen in the coming weeks. At the Umayyad Mosque, I observed a change inside the courtyard: there are now waist-high chains dividing the space into women's and men's areas The shop at the museum entrance was selling the same books, fridge magnets and postcards I recognised from before the war, and the gardens and cafe were unchanged. Al-Azem Palace was as magnificent as ever, beautifully maintained, its courtyards well-watered and rich with the scent of jasmine and roses. At the Umayyad Mosque, I observed a change inside the courtyard: there are now waist-high chains dividing the space into women's and men's areas, with the women channelled into a far corner to enter the prayer hall, while the men can go straight inside from the main Bab al-Barid entrance. Such a division means that, strictly speaking, I cannot go to see the Barada panel, the most beautiful and famous mosaic ensemble in the mosque. But no one seemed to mind if I ducked under the chain, following the example of many local mixed family groups. I felt largely invisible and entirely at home throughout my trip - except in Homs, where I visited the newly restored Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque. A hostile self-appointed warden refused to let me enter the prayer hall at all, despite my hooded gown, forcing me instead to enter a tiny screened area reserved for women, from which it was difficult to see the rest of the mosque. Her manner made me feel very unwelcome, the first time I had felt that way in a Syrian mosque throughout decades of visits, starting from 1978. Remarkable resilience I also visited three churches during my visit: the Ananias Chapel, where St Paul had his 'Damascene conversion'; the Saydnaya Monastery, whose name is shared by the nearby notorious prison; and Umm al-Zinnar in Homs, rebuilt after extensive bombing. The latter two visits coincided with Palm Sunday, so the churches were decorated with real palm fronds, and my male Muslim friends were also welcomed and given sachets of incense for a blessing. At Umm al-Zinnar, they too drank the holy water, as has long been normal behaviour in Syria, where Muslim-Christian relations have traditionally been close. Arab Christianity Frescoes at Mar Elian, Homs (photo by Diana Darke) The Homs souk is now bustling after the return of refugees who had been displaced to Idlib in 2014. They were restoring their homes and reopening their shops. At the Ananias Chapel, we encountered a church service where a man and a woman from the small congregation of about 15 people alternated in leading prayers for the safety of their community and the future of Syria. I felt buoyed by the optimism of my friends, whose will to unite and rebuild is strong. Syrians have a remarkable resilience and ability to adapt Traditions run deep in these anxious communities. Several early popes were born in Syria, and Pope John Paul II visited Damascus in 2001, even entering the Umayyad Mosque - the only pope ever to cross the threshold of a mosque. Upon my departure from the airport, I received confirmation that my blacklisting had been officially lifted, enabling me to return to Syria anytime. As my flight took off, heading west, I looked down at the majestic, snow-covered peak of Mount Hermon, now under Israeli control. This is yet another challenge facing Syria's new leadership: the ongoing Israeli occupation and land grabs. It remains to be seen how Syria will navigate the choppy waters ahead but overall, despite the many problems still facing the country, I felt buoyed by the optimism of my friends, whose will to unite and rebuild is strong. Syrians have a remarkable resilience and ability to adapt. The views expressed in this article belong to the author and do not necessarily reflect the editorial policy of Middle East Eye.
Daily News Egypt
18-05-2025
- Politics
- Daily News Egypt
Patriarchs of Eastern Orthodox Churches arrive in Cairo to commemorate 1700th anniversary of Council of Nicaea
Senior patriarchs of the Eastern Orthodox Churches arrived at Cairo International Airport on Friday evening to participate in the commemoration of the 1700th anniversary of the First Ecumenical Council of Nicaea, a landmark event in the history of Christianity. Among the arriving dignitaries were His Holiness Mar Ignatius Aphrem II, Patriarch of Antioch and All the East of the Syriac Orthodox Church, and His Holiness Catholicos Aram I Keshishian, Catholicos of the Great House of Cilicia of the Armenian Orthodox Church, based in Antelias, Lebanon. Accompanying them were His Grace Bishop Mar Awgin Al-Khouri Neemat, the Patriarchal Secretary; His Grace Bishop Mar Nicodemus Daoud Matti Sharaf, Archbishop of Mosul, Kirkuk, and the Kurdistan Region; and His Grace Bishop Mar Justinus Paul Sfar, Bishop of Zahle and the Bekaa—all representing the Syriac Orthodox Church. The delegation's visit is centered on their participation in a celebratory Divine Liturgy organized by the Eastern Orthodox Family in the Middle East. This special service, to be held on Sunday morning, May 18, at the Great St. Mark's Cathedral in Abbasiya, will commemorate the historic First Council of Nicaea and will be presided over by His Holiness Pope Tawadros II, Pope of Alexandria and Patriarch of the See of St. Mark. In addition to the liturgy, the patriarchs will take part in the 14th meeting of the Permanent Committee of the Patriarchs of the Eastern Orthodox Churches in the Middle East, scheduled to be held at the Papal Headquarters in Anba Rouis. Upon their arrival, the delegation was warmly welcomed by a host of church leaders and representatives. Among those present to receive them were His Grace Anba Thomas, Metropolitan of Qousiya and Mir and a member of both the Permanent Committee and the Executive Committee of the World Council of Churches; His Eminence Mar Ekleems Daniel Correa, Metropolitan of Beirut for the Syriac Orthodox Church; and His Grace Bishop Mar Timothy Matti Al-Khouri, Metropolitan of Homs, Hama, and Tartous, and Acting Patriarchal Vicar of Egypt. Also welcoming the guests were His Eminence Metropolitan Mar Nikolaos Matti Abd Al-Ahad, Patriarchal Vicar of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Spain; His Eminence Metropolitan Narek Alemzian, Metropolitan of the Armenian Orthodox Church in Lebanon; and His Eminence Metropolitan Macar Ashkarian, Metropolitan of the Armenian Orthodox Diocese of Aleppo and its dependencies. Reverend Father Philips Issa, priest of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Cairo, Mr. Elias Shahrour, President of the Syriac Orthodox Council in Egypt, and Deacon Jamil Malouh, Deputy of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Cairo, were also present at the airport to greet the delegation. The visit highlights the unity and historical continuity of the Eastern Orthodox tradition in the region, and marks a significant moment of shared reflection on the theological and ecclesiastical legacy of the Council of Nicaea.
See - Sada Elbalad
16-05-2025
- Politics
- See - Sada Elbalad
Patriarchs of Eastern Orthodox Churches Arrive in Cairo to Commemorate Council of Nicaea
SEENEWS This evening, Their Holinesses the Patriarchs arrived at Cairo International Airport: ● Mar Ignatius Aphrem II, Patriarch of Antioch and All the East of the Syriac Orthodox Church, ● and Catholicos Aram I Keshishian, Catholicos of the Great House of Cilicia of the Armenian Orthodox Church (Antelias - Lebanon), They were accompanied by His Grace Bishop Mar Awgin Al-Khouri Neemat, the Antiochian Patriarchal Secretary, His Grace Bishop Mar Nicodemus Daoud Matti Sharaf, Archbishop of Mosul, Kirkuk, and Kurdistan Region for the Syriac Orthodox Church, and His Grace Bishop Mar Justinus Paul Sfar, Bishop of Zahle and the Bekaa for the Syriac Orthodox Church. The visit comes to participate in the celebratory Divine Liturgy of the Eastern Orthodox Family in the Middle East, commemorating the 1700th anniversary of the First Ecumenical Council of Nicaea, which will be held on Sunday morning, May 18, at the Great St. Mark's Cathedral in Abbasiya, presided over by His Holiness Pope Tawadros II, Pope of Alexandria and Patriarch of the See of St. Mark. The delegation will also participate in the 14th meeting of the Permanent Committee of the Patriarchs of the Eastern Orthodox Churches in the Middle East, held at the Papal Headquarters at Anba Rouis. Upon arrival at the airport, the delegation was received by: His Grace Anba Thomas, Metropolitan of Qousiya and Mir, member of the Permanent Committee and Executive Committee of the World Council of Churches, His Eminence Mar Ekleems Daniel Correa, Metropolitan of Beirut for the Syriac Orthodox Church, His Grace Bishop Mar Timothy Matti Al-Khouri, Metropolitan of Homs, Hama, and Tartous and Acting Patriarchal Vicar of Egypt, His Eminence Metropolitan Mar Nikolaos Matti Abd Al-Ahad, Patriarchal Vicar of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Spain, His Eminence Metropolitan Narek Alemzian, Metropolitan of the Armenian Orthodox in Lebanon, His Eminence Metropolitan Macar Ashkarian, Metropolitan of the Armenian Orthodox Diocese of Aleppo and its dependencies, Reverend Father Philips Issa, Priest of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Cairo, Mr. Elias Shahrour, President of the Syriac Orthodox Council in Egypt, and Deacon Jamil Malouh, Deputy of the Syriac Orthodox Church in Cairo. read more Gold prices rise, 21 Karat at EGP 3685 NATO's Role in Israeli-Palestinian Conflict US Expresses 'Strong Opposition' to New Turkish Military Operation in Syria Shoukry Meets Director-General of FAO Lavrov: confrontation bet. nuclear powers must be avoided News Iran Summons French Ambassador over Foreign Minister Remarks News Aboul Gheit Condemns Israeli Escalation in West Bank News Greek PM: Athens Plays Key Role in Improving Energy Security in Region News One Person Injured in Explosion at Ukrainian Embassy in Madrid News Egypt confirms denial of airspace access to US B-52 bombers Lifestyle Pistachio and Raspberry Cheesecake Domes Recipe News Ayat Khaddoura's Final Video Captures Bombardment of Beit Lahia News Australia Fines Telegram $600,000 Over Terrorism, Child Abuse Content Arts & Culture Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban's $4.7M LA Home Burglarized Sports Former Al Zamalek Player Ibrahim Shika Passes away after Long Battle with Cancer Sports Neymar Announced for Brazil's Preliminary List for 2026 FIFA World Cup Qualifiers News Prime Minister Moustafa Madbouly Inaugurates Two Indian Companies Arts & Culture New Archaeological Discovery from 26th Dynasty Uncovered in Karnak Temple Business Fear & Greed Index Plummets to Lowest Level Ever Recorded amid Global Trade War
Time of India
21-04-2025
- Politics
- Time of India
Jacobite Syrian Church declares three days' mourning
Kochi: The Jacobite Syrian Church has declared three days' mourning as a gesture of respect towards the late Roman pontiff. Catholicos and Malankara Metropolitan of the Jacobite Church Mor Baselios Joseph I stated that the passing of Pope Francis was an irreplaceable loss for Christian denominations and the general society. "He had a deep love and care for the Syriac Orthodox Church and the hospitality and affection showed during his visit with Patriarch Ignatius Aphrem II in 2015 was an unforgettable experience. The Jacobite Syriac Church shares the profound sorrow experienced by the global Catholic Church and the world due to the passing of Pope Francis," the Catholicos said. He added that along with expressing condolences to the Catholic Church, he prays that he continues to intercede for the Church and society. Metropolitan Kuriakose Mor Theophilos said that he remembers the time the Pope and he both attended an ecumenical meet in the Vatican at a time when Metropolitan Ibrahim was kidnapped in Aleppo. "At the meeting, I spoke about the kidnapping in my speech and presented my sorrow before the Pope. Usually, it was I who was to go towards him and kiss his hand. However, he got up from his chair and came towards me. He hugged me and consoled me," said Theophilos. He added that he met the Pope at least once a year for ecumenical meetings and he was amazed by his broad ecumenical perspective. He said that the loss of Pope Francis, is a loss not just for the Catholic Church but that of everyone. "I express my condolences to everyone, especially those from the Catholic Church," said Theophilos.
Rudaw Net
14-02-2025
- Politics
- Rudaw Net
Syriac patriarch says met President Barzani to get advice
Also in World President Barzani discusses Syria with German Interior Ministry official Senator says US to maintain 'strong' relations with Kurdistan President Barzani discusses security cooperation in Munich US calls on Iraq to 'eliminate' energy dependence on Iran A+ A- ERBIL, Kurdistan Region - The Patriarch of the Syriac Orthodox Church Mor Ignatius Aphrem II said that he met with the president of the Kurdistan Region on Friday to get some advice about developments in Syria. President Nechirvan Barzani 'is a person who understands the nature of the area there and who knows a lot about Syria. Therefore, we thought it is important to meet him and to exchange views about what is happening in Syria and to get some advice. But also to explain to him the aspirations and concerns of the Syrian people in general, especially in northeast Syria where there is a special situation that also somehow has to be resolved, hopefully peacefully,' the Christian leader told Rudaw after meeting with Barzani on the sidelines of the Munich Security Conference. The Kurdistan Region Presidency said in a statement that the two 'engaged in a dialogue regarding the circumstances of Christians in Iraq and Syria, addressing the difficulties they currently encounter. They also explored ways to enhance initiatives aimed at fostering peace and coexistence among various religious and ethnic groups in the region.' Mor Ignatius Aphrem II and two other heads of churches in Syria released a joint statement in December demanding that the country's Christian minority be included in drafting a new constitution following the collapse of Bashar al-Assad's regime. The number of Christians in Syria has significantly dwindled since the start of the civil war over a decade ago. The Patriarch told Rudaw that Christians in Syria want to see a state that is 'based on the principle of citizenship, and also a new constitution that represents Syrians and their aspirations.' Assad was ousted from power in December by a coalition of Islamist armed groups that have established an interim government and begun preparing for a national dialogue about the country's future. They have said that they will protect the country's religious and ethnic diversity, but many minority populations remain concerned.
