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Japan Times
19-05-2025
- Science
- Japan Times
The true cost of ocean plastic pollution
The problem of maritime plastic-waste pollution first became apparent in the 1970s. In the half-century since then, the problem has become ever more widespread, as scientific expeditions conducted by the Tara Ocean Foundation (of which I am executive director) have shown. Large pieces of debris, such as fishing nets and their disastrous effects on marine life are the most visible symptom. Such waste is estimated to kill more than 1 million seabirds and over 100,000 marine mammals annually, often through entanglement or suffocation, and promotes transport of invasive species, triggering a cascading effect on the ecosystems in which they play a central role. Less visible, but more pervasive, are microplastics, which have been found in the deepest ocean trenches and all types of marine life. Microplastics can, among other things, modify bacterial and viral communities and disperse chemical toxins in food chains (often after being ingested by marine organisms). Some of these toxins, such as phthalates, are associated with the chemistry of plastics, while others, such as pesticides and heavy metals, are absorbed by the plastic before it reaches the ocean and enters the food chain. How these toxic substances interact with plastics has been the subject of much study. Plastic is comprised of monomers that have been chemically bonded to form long chains of polymers — ethylene, styrene and propylene become polyethylene, polystyrene and polypropylene. But the process of polymerization is often imperfect and some of the unpolymerized monomers that remain in plastic, like different types of styrene and bisphenol, pose major environmental and health risks. Moreover, other chemical additives, including plasticizers, fillers, colorants, flame retardants and antioxidants, are incorporated into polymer formulations to modify their properties. And nonintentionally added substances (NIAS) — impurities, raw materials used in manufacturing, byproducts and degradation products — bind to finished plastics. In most cases, because free monomers, additives and NIAS are simply trapped within the tangle of polymer chains, rather than being chemically bound to them, they are more likely to leach out during the production, use and disposal of plastic, migrating into liquids, gases and solids. Some 16,000 such molecules have been identified, but their effects are still not fully known, nor is their toxicity, which can change depending on how they are combined. What we do know is that one-quarter of these 16,000 molecules are pose a hazard to human health or the environment by disrupting biochemical processes in living organisms. Halting the flow of microplastics and toxic pollutants into the world's bodies of water is a Sisyphean task. Nevertheless, scientists are trying to stem the problem. For example, the Tara Europa expedition, in coordination with the European Molecular Biology Laboratory and more than 70 scientific institutions across the continent, has spent the past two years investigating how these hazardous substances make their way into the seas and oceans bordering Europe. The mission plans to share its findings soon. But the generation of toxic waste and debris is not the only way that plastic can harm ocean health. The plastics industry has been a major driver of climate change, accounting for an estimated 3.4% of global greenhouse-gas emissions. Plastic production is on track to contribute 15% of GHG emissions by 2050, exacerbating global warming and thereby increasing the threats to marine life, which is sensitive to rising water temperatures. Because plastic degrades the entire biosphere, not just the ocean, it is not a waste problem that can be solved by a few sustainability-minded citizens' recycling efforts. This is a systemic crisis that requires an economy-wide solution. A better approach is to understand plastic as one of the 'new entities' that must not leak into the environment, a view initially formulated by the Stockholm Resilience Centre in its work on planetary boundaries and later endorsed by the United Nations. While acknowledging the impossibility of defining a precise threshold for harm, such an approach highlights the need for a drastic reduction in plastic use. Research suggests that it would be economically feasible to halve global plastic production at a cost which would almost surely be less than the cost of inaction. But, according to a recent study by researchers at the University of California, Berkeley, even this reduction would not be enough to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius above preindustrial levels, the target set by the Paris climate agreement. Instead, they found that meeting this goal would require a 75% reduction in plastic production compared to 2015, when the agreement was adopted. Addressing this global crisis with the necessary urgency will require mobilizing investment and support to reduce the production of single-use plastics, increase the lifespan of plastic objects through regulation and promote reuse and reparability. While it is tempting to lean on short-term fixes, such as replacing plastic packaging with other disposable materials like paper, cardboard, aluminum, steel and glass, the goal must not be merely to mitigate the symptoms of the underlying ailment. Our economies are on the cusp of upheaval as the need for a habitable and healthy planet becomes inescapable. Ignoring or even denying the economic reality of the current ecological emergency would be to shut one's eyes to the close dependence of human activities on a stable and favorable environment. Working with, rather than against, nature requires a paradigm shift — and it starts with plastics. Romain Trouble is executive director of the Tara Ocean Foundation. © Project Syndicate, 2025
Japan Times
18-05-2025
- Business
- Japan Times
Agnes b. Japan CEO hopes to evolve the brand with focus on sustainability
The head office of Agnes b. in Tokyo's Meguro district has a calm, but industrious tempo. An original photography work by indie darling Rinko Kawauchi and a vintage Smiths poster are among the artworks that edge an open-plan office, where much has been recycled and repurposed. At the center, a glassy atelier space is a constant reminder of the craft at the heart of the business, while a prominent display for the Tara Ocean Foundation — an environmental and scientific research and education initiative founded by Agnes b. — stands close by. The office is a reflection of the brand looking ahead, under the guidance of Laurent Patouillet, the CEO and president of Agnes b. Japan. 'The focus is on making sure that we evolve. It's not about growth, it's about evolving,' said Patouillet, who has headed the group's operations in the country since 2018. 'Many businesses are just growing, growing, growing. What we're really trying to do is keep our independence and evolve and adapt.' Founded in 1975 by Agnes Trouble, the French fashion and lifestyle brand became a formative shopping experience for generations of young people who were drawn to Trouble's world view — which continues to weave together fashion, art, film, music and photography with an emphasis on sustainability. In Japan, the intricate handwritten scrawl that makes up the Agnes b. logo is a fairly ubiquitous sight. The brand was embraced quickly after its 1983 arrival, and generations of loyal shoppers transformed Japan into the brand's largest market. There are now 133 stores in Japan, and the country is expected to play an important role in the company's future, too. Today, Trouble, who is 83, remains highly engaged in the business that bears her name. She is closely in touch with Patouillet and regularly sends photographs of her handwritten notes to the Japan team. In Japan, the intricate handwritten scrawl that makes up the Agnes b. logo is a fairly ubiquitous sight. | Elizabeth Beattie Patouillet, who grew up wearing the Agnes b. brand himself, described Trouble as 'instinctive' — noting the success of the early expansion in Japan. 'She did not expect Asia would become that big, but she had the instinct that it would be crucial for keeping her independence,' he said, noting that the early physical presence in Japan helped solidify the brand in the market long term. Junko Yamada, who manages the Agnes b. Aoyama store, said the brand's classic, yet eclectic styles appealed to shoppers in Japan from the beginning. 'The brand is not blown by the fashion trends,' Yamada said, noting that many customers who frequent the store — a multistory retail space topped with a full-size gallery space — had 'grown up' with the brand since it's been in Japan for more than four decades. Klara Blanc, a brand consultant at Monopo Tokyo, who is originally from France and has collaborated with Agnes b. herself, said the brand has multi-generational appeal. 'For Japanese women, they've seen their mom wearing it and when they want to buy their first nice bag — most people don't have the means to buy Chanel — then they might go to Agnes b.,' she said. 'I think many people do understand this relates to cinema and music, and they really like that. It's not only about the design, which is really beautiful, timeless and effortless, but everything that's behind the brand, I think that's something the Japanese consumer really cares about.' Junko Yamada, who manages Agnes b.'s Aoyama store, said the brand's classic, yet eclectic styles appealed to shoppers in Japan from the moment it arrived in 1983. | Elizabeth Beattie As is the case with its Paris operation, Agnes b. in Japan has culturally ingratiated itself with art, music and the local cultural scene in Japan. The brand has worked with Kyotographie, the annual international photography festival, on exhibitions. It also recently supported the Yokohama French Film Festival and hosts regular exhibitions as well as events. Yamada said the retail space was intended to be a place of inspiration for customers and visitors, whether that be raising awareness in sustainability or as a place to discover art. 'It's Agnes' spirit, we can feel the excitement in the store. It's not only a space to sell clothes,' Yamada said. In Japan, under Patouillet, the brand has been careful to read the air and adapt sensitively to the local market. In 2023, the company transformed a machiya, or a traditional merchant townhouse, in Kyoto's Gion district into a cafe and boutique to celebrate its 40th anniversary in the country. The process — a collaboration with designer Teruhiro Yanagihara — highlighted the gray areas which can be challenging for foreign brands to navigate. 'There are many rules — written rules and unwritten rules,' said Patouillet, who added that engaging with local experts is key. 'It was not so difficult in the end. If you want to do something, you have to ask all the people of the area.' And like much of the Agnes b. world, even this process involved a flair of the artistic. Patouillet described the moment the elegant building owner, a former geisha, arrived in the narrow streets of Gion to meet them, driving in a large white Maserati SUV, dressed in an intricate kimono — as being like a scene from a Quentin Tarantino film. In 2023, Agnes b. transformed a traditional merchant townhouse in Kyoto's Gion district into a cafe and boutique. | Courtesy of Daisuke Shima The following day when her car pulled up again, her attire had changed. 'She comes back the next day with the same SUV, but this time she's dressed all in Agnes b.,' Patouillet said with a smile. While businesses typically hunger for expansion, the fact that the company is overseen by the founder as an unlisted firm changes the dynamic. Trouble emphasizes sustainability as an important aspect of the brand, and doesn't want to chase boundless growth. And Patouillet believes there is more that the company can do to be environmentally sustainable. One ongoing experiment for the brand in Japan is the sale of vintage products. The mentality behind it is almost gallery-esque — with secondhand T-shirts curated as unique one-off items. 'It's time to stop buying like crazy and to understand what you're buying. At least buy something meaningful, or something with a story, or something that will help an artist, or a cause. This is what we were trying to do,' he said. What is clear for Patouillet is that Agnes b. doesn't want to be like other fashion retailers: beautiful exteriors with exorbitant waste behind the scenes. While fast fashion is certainly getting better at baking in recycling to their production cycles, the overproduction itself is a trap, Patouillet said. 'It doesn't change the original concept or idea that they want to sell more and produce more,' he said. 'At the end of the day, the business model is fundamentally wrong.' Agnes b.'s cafe in Kyoto | Courtesy of Daisuke Shima With everything from supply chain auditing to juggling environmentally conscious retail expansions, the Japan operation has plenty of work to keep it busy. And there is a sense that a deeper change is set to come. Ultimately, the future direction of the business is a big question. With Trouble's advanced age, a shift in leadership will be inevitable at some point. Patouillet defers the future of the company to Trouble and her family, but it's hard not to see him playing a significant role in shepherding the business in the future, given the importance of Japan. But with much in flux, the brand's world view is something that will not be changing. 'It's not only about just buying products,' Patouillet said. 'It's also about dreaming, having a good life, good experiences and discovering things — discovering emotions, music, art, science, the sea, the planet. That's really what it's about,' he said.
Arab News
14-05-2025
- Health
- Arab News
The true cost of ocean plastic pollution
The problem of maritime plastic waste pollution first became apparent in the 1970s. In the half-century since then, the problem has become ever more widespread, as scientific expeditions conducted by the Tara Ocean Foundation have shown. Large pieces of debris, such as fishing nets, and their disastrous effects on marine life are the most visible symptoms. Such waste is estimated to kill more than a million seabirds and 100,000 marine mammals annually, often through entanglement or suffocation, and promote the transport of invasive species, triggering a cascading effect on the ecosystems in which they play a central role. Less visible, but more pervasive, are microplastics, which have been found in the deepest ocean trenches and all types of marine life. Microplastics can, among other things, modify bacterial and viral communities and disperse chemical toxins in food chains (often after being ingested by marine organisms). Some of these toxins, such as phthalates, are associated with the chemistry of plastics, while others, such as pesticides and heavy metals, are absorbed by the plastic before it reaches the ocean and enters the food chain. How these toxic substances interact with plastics has been the subject of much study. Plastic comprises monomers that have been chemically bonded to form long chains of polymers — ethylene, styrene and propylene become polyethylene, polystyrene and polypropylene. But the process of polymerization is often imperfect and some of the unpolymerized monomers that remain in plastic, like different types of styrene and bisphenol, pose major environmental and health risks. Halting the flow of microplastics and toxic pollutants into the world's bodies of water is a Sisyphean task Romain Trouble Moreover, other chemical additives, including plasticizers, fillers, colorants, flame retardants and antioxidants, are incorporated into polymer formulations to modify their properties. And non-intentionally added substances — impurities, raw materials used in manufacturing, byproducts and degradation products — bind to finished plastics. In most cases, because free monomers, additives and non-intentionally added substances are simply trapped within the tangle of polymer chains, rather than being chemically bound to them, they are more likely to leach out during the production, use and disposal of plastic, migrating into liquids, gases and solids. Some 16,000 such molecules have been identified, but their effects are still not fully known, nor is their toxicity, which can change depending on how they are combined. What we do know is that a quarter of these 16,000 molecules pose a hazard to human health or the environment by disrupting biochemical processes in living organisms. Halting the flow of microplastics and toxic pollutants into the world's bodies of water is a Sisyphean task. Nevertheless, scientists are trying to stem the problem. For example, the Tara Europa expedition, in coordination with the European Molecular Biology Laboratory and more than 70 scientific institutions across the continent, has spent the past two years investigating how these hazardous substances make their way into the seas and oceans bordering Europe. The mission plans to share its findings soon. But the generation of toxic waste and debris is not the only way that plastic can harm ocean health. The plastics industry has been a major driver of climate change, accounting for an estimated 3.4 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Plastic production is on track to contribute 15 percent of greenhouse gas emissions by 2050, exacerbating global warming and thereby increasing the threats to marine life, which is sensitive to rising water temperatures. Plastic is not a waste problem that can be solved by a few sustainability-minded citizens' recycling efforts Romain Trouble Because plastic degrades the entire biosphere, not just the ocean, it is not a waste problem that can be solved by a few sustainability-minded citizens' recycling efforts. This is a systemic crisis that requires an economy-wide solution. A better approach is to understand plastic as one of the 'new entities' that must not leak into the environment, a view initially formulated by the Stockholm Resilience Centre in its work on planetary boundaries and later endorsed by the UN. While acknowledging the impossibility of defining a precise threshold for harm, such an approach highlights the need for a drastic reduction in plastic use. Research suggests it would be economically feasible to halve global plastic production at a cost that would almost surely be less than the cost of inaction. But, according to a recent study by researchers at the University of California, Berkeley, even this reduction would not be enough to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius above preindustrial levels, the target set by the Paris Agreement. Instead, they found that meeting this goal would require a 75 percent reduction in plastic production compared to 2015, when the agreement was adopted. Addressing this global crisis with the necessary urgency will require mobilizing investment and support to reduce the production of single-use plastics, increase the lifespan of plastic objects through regulation, and promote reuse and reparability. While it is tempting to lean on short-term fixes, such as replacing plastic packaging with other disposable materials like paper, cardboard, aluminum, steel and glass, the goal must not be merely to mitigate the symptoms of the underlying ailment. Our economies are on the cusp of upheaval as the need for a habitable and healthy planet becomes inescapable. Ignoring or even denying the economic reality of the current ecological emergency would be to shut one's eyes to the close dependence of human activities on a stable and favorable environment. Working with, rather than against, nature requires a paradigm shift — and it starts with plastics. Copyright: Project Syndicate
Yahoo
11-05-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
Scientists launch $23 million Arctic mission to uncover what's hidden beneath the ice: 'We have basically no information'
A drifting science station designed for research in the Arctic is scheduled to carry out 10 successive missions from 2025 to 2046, where it will remain stuck in the ice for 90% of its expedition time. It's an alternative to more traditional ice camps that have to battle dangerous conditions in the rapidly warming region. In what's being called "an unprecedented scientific and human adventure at the North Pole," the $23 million Tara Polar Station will be the home of a team of 18 people made up of scientists, artists, physicians, journalists, and sailors. The mission of this drifting science station is to gather data and perform research during the period from November to February, a part of the year that lacks observations because of the dangers inherent in a region of the world that is warming faster than anywhere else. "We have basically no information," Tara Ocean Foundation's Chris Bowler told New Scientist. "Which is alarming, considering it is such a fragile place and it is changing so rapidly." The Tara Ocean Foundation is focusing on the Arctic because the changes that occur there have global impacts. The French nongovernmental organization wants to analyze "the consequences of melting sea ice and pollution on these unique and fragile ecosystems." The research performed at the Tara Polar Station is also aimed at "discovering new molecules/species/processes with new potential applications" and "improving knowledge of biodiversity on Earth by exploring regions inaccessible today." It will take a tough team to board the vessel, which is being built to handle temperatures as cold as nearly minus-60 degrees Fahrenheit. "The people we select need to be psychologically very sound," according to Bowler. "They need to be strong, because it's pretty hostile — you are at the extremes of what humans can withstand in these conditions." "The inspiration was really to build a shelter that could shelter scientists through the polar night, through an entire season in the Arctic," he added. "We expect to develop Tara Polar Station like an international facility, that scientists can apply to use." Do you think America could ever go zero-waste? Never Not anytime soon Maybe in some states Definitely Click your choice to see results and speak your mind. Studying what is happening in the Arctic is vital since some scientists consider it the "canary in the coal mine" when it comes to the impacts of a warming world. The Arctic is warming nearly four times faster than the Earth's average. In March 2025, the Arctic's sea ice extent was the lowest on record for the month, according to NOAA's March global climate report. The region's sea ice winter maximum extent happened on March 22 and was also the lowest on record. Significant projected rises in sea levels could dramatically alter coastlines. If one of the worst-case scenarios plays out, some coastal counties in North Carolina would be underwater. The Florida Keys and portions of Miami would also be submerged. In order to lessen the impacts of an overheating planet on the Arctic, we need to embrace renewable energy sources and move away from dirty fuels. On an individual basis, that could include installing solar panels, replacing an old HVAC system with a heat pump, or choosing an electric vehicle for your next car purchase. Join our free newsletter for weekly updates on the latest innovations improving our lives and shaping our future, and don't miss this cool list of easy ways to help yourself while helping the planet.
