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New York Times
01-04-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Martha Argerich, the Elusive, Enigmatic ‘Goddess' of the Piano
The pianist Martha Argerich had just delivered an electrifying performance on a snowy night in northern Switzerland. Fans were lining up backstage for autographs, and friends were bringing roses and chrysanthemums to her dressing room. But Argerich, who at 83 is still one of the world's most astonishing pianists, with enough finger strength to shatter chestnuts or make a Steinway quiver, was nowhere to be seen. She had slipped out a door to smoke a Gauloises cigarette. 'I want to hide,' she said outside the Stadtcasino concert hall in Basel, Switzerland, shrinking beneath her billowy gray hair. 'For a moment, I don't want to be a pianist. Now, I am someone else.' As she smoked, Argerich, one of classical music's most elusive and enigmatic artists, obsessed about how she had played the opening flourish of Schumann's piano concerto that evening with the Orchestra della Svizzera Italiana. (Her verdict: 'not so good.') And she became transfixed by the memory of performing the concerto for the first time, as an 11-year-old in Buenos Aires, her hometown. There, at the Teatro Colón in 1952, a conductor whose name was seared into her memory — Washington Castro — had offered a warning. Never forget, he said: Strange things happen to pianists who play the Schumann concerto. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Telegraph
28-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The best bars and nightlife in Buenos Aires
Things kick off much later in Buenos Aires than in most European cities. People often dine after 10pm and those heading to a nightclub might only leave the house after midnight. Some of the best places for early evening are the cafés and bars – around 90 ' bares notables ' (historic cafés and bars) are protected by municipal decree, though, sadly, that hasn't saved a few from closure. Combine these with some live folk or tango music, or even one of the cheesy but fun tango shows, and you'll have a great night. Whatever time you emerge there'll be somewhere open – younger porteños often breakfast before going home. All our recommendations below have been hand selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best things to do in Buenos Aires. Find out more below or for more inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, restaurants, bars and attractions. Centre Florería Atlántico Paying homage to Buenos Aires's melting-pot heyday, when migrants poured in from Europe and beyond, this would-be speakeasy explores the classic drink menu of the Old World, from English gins to Italian vermouths to Cuban rums. Accessed via a florist at a stylish spot along Calle Arroyo, it occupies a dimly lit basement that attracts BA's beautiful folk and those who want to learn about the finer arts of mixology. Try the house gin laced with eucalyptus, yerba mate, grapefruit and peppermint. Dada Bistró Bar If you want an intimate, pub-style atmosphere with good craft beers, mojitos, martinis and tasty finger food such as fried shrimp, hummus or guacamole and chips, olives and feta cheese, this downtown bar is a great option. It's a draw with locals, artists and theatregoers, and a visit is sure to turn into a cultural exchange – not least because everyone is sat so close to everyone else. The Ruca Malen wines are excellent and good-value. Palacio Libertad: Centro Cultural Domingo Faustino Sarmiento This extraordinary art space, built inside the Beaux Arts building of the former Correo Central (Central Post Office), used to be called the Centro Cultural Kirchner; the name was changed by the current administration of Javier Milei and now honours educator and former president D.F. Sarmiento. Opened in 2015, the multi-use centre has eight floors that host art, sculpture, theatre, performance, poetry readings, sound-art and multi-media shows. At the centre of the building is a 1,750-seater concert hall that hosts rock, classical, folk and jazz concerts. All shows are free. Walk in, chat to the helpful aids at the desk and explore. To collect tickets for special events, you may have to queue. Teatro Colón The Teatro Colón, opened in 1908, is South America's most beautiful lyric theatre. The Italianate building is perhaps one of the most graceful in the world and the interior is opulent. The 2018 season features Bryn Terfel, Gustavo Dudamel and Argentina's own Daniel Barenboim. Three Sisters, Aida, Tristan und Isolde and La Bohéme are all on the roster. Tip: Make sure you visit by day too as the tours of the building are well worth an afternoon. They take place every 15 minutes between 9am and 5pm. Torquato Tasso One of the city's best live music venues, with a cabaret-style set-up, this is the place to catch not only the best tango singers and guitarists, but folk quartets, jazz bands and top Brazilian artists. Meals are served usually just before the show, so you can sit back and enjoy the spectacle. Stick to pasta or a milanesa (schnitzel) with fries; there are better steaks available elsewhere in San Telmo. Look out for gigs by bandoneón maestro Rodolfo Mederos, cool tango band La Chicana and Sexteto Mayor. Rojo Tango at the Faena Hotel All the tango shows are a bit schmaltzy, but this one, in the tango ballroom at the Faena hotel, is the most fun. The setting is all rojo – deep red walls, crimson tablecloths, scarlet candles. After you've dined in some style and had a glass of good Malbec, the music powers up and a dozen talented dancers perform to old classics and newer Astor Piazzolla tangos. The accent is on sensuality and sexiness – and the energy is tangible. North La Viruta at the Armenian Club Whether you can dance or not, it's worth learning something about tango. You can see street dancing on retail gauntlet Florida and on the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. But to experience something intimate and authentic, spend an evening/night at a milonga – these are neighbourhood salons where dancers of all levels meet to practice. La Viruta at the Armenian Club is a great one. Classes are often offered before the main event. See for a list. Velvet Club This medium-sized, cabaret-style venue is good if you want a lucky dip night – music ranges from Latin ska to jazz to rock and pop, and excellent cover bands pay tribute here too. Skip the Quilmes industrial beer and try one of the craft ales, or if you're here for a tango gig, perhaps sample one of the local vermouths with a splash of soda. How we choose Every bar, venue or experience in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from casual pubs to exquisite cocktail bars – to best suit every type of traveller – and consider the service, drinks, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Chris Moss lived in Buenos Aires for a decade and visits every year to write and guide tours in Argentina.
