Latest news with #Thakurbari
Time of India
18-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Puffs, Posto and Padma Luchir Payesh: Chef Subhajit Bhattacharyya travels back in time with recipes from Thakurbari
In a culinary workshop titled Thakurbarir Ranna at KCC, chef Subhajit Bhattacharyya stirred up four forgotten vegetarian delicacies from the famed Thakurbari kitchens of Kolkata. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now Home to cultural icons like Rabindranath Tagore and Abanindranath Tagore, the Thakurbari was not just a cradle of art and literature but also a melting pot of gastronomic innovation. Marrying traditional Bengali ingredients with refined Western techniques, the family's kitchen gave birth to a unique genre of cooking – elegant, experimental, and way ahead of its time. Subhajit, who also runs a YouTube channel named Lost and Rare recipes, breathed new life into heritage recipes at the workshop. 'Thakurbari was far ahead of its time – that was simply their ethos,' says Subhajit, as he delves into the fascinating culinary legacy of Kolkata's most culturally influential family. 'Back then, many Bengali households wouldn't even allow chicken in their kitchens, but at Thakurbari, it was a part of their regular fare. In Pragyasundari Devi's cookbook, you'll even find recipes using pork. They cooked turtle meat and other such ingredients as well.' The workshop in progress But it wasn't just about what they cooked; rather it was about how they cooked it. 'The Tagores used many ingredients and techniques that were unheard of in most Bengali homes of that era. Take tomatoes, for example – people used to call them bilati begun back then. The Thakurbari kitchen embraced them fully. Dishes like pies, puffs, and pastries were commonly made and enjoyed,' he adds. Tok ar Mishti Doi diye Aloor Dum Subhajit, who is also an advertising expert, adds that even dining habits reflected this refined fusion of East and West. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now 'Rabindranath Tagore himself would have dinner served with proper crockery and cutlery. At a time when most homes hadn't even heard of sauces, you'll find the usage of sauce in fish dishes, in Purnima Devi's writings,' he says. Thor diye Chaal As he spoke, Subhajit brought the legacy alive through action—demonstrating four exquisite vegetarian recipes from the Thakurbari kitchen – Thor diye Chaal , Tok ar Mishti Doi diye Aloor Dum , Beguner Jhaal Posto and Lau-er Halwa . The live cooking session, part of a culinary workshop on Thakurbarir ranna , had the audience rapt as they witnessed how age-old techniques and colonial influences came together in these timeless dishes. 'There are dishes from the Thakurbari kitchen that have almost vanished today, like the steamed eggs with prawns,' says chef Subhajit Bhattacharyya, recalling one of the many forgotten gems from the Tagore family's culinary archive. 'It's such a simple preparation, made with ginger, finely chopped onions, and coriander leaves. They even used vinegar in those days – a legacy of Portuguese influence in India.' Beguner Jhaal Posto Yet, he is quick to point out that these recipes are not truly lost. 'They might not be seen on our tables anymore, but they haven't disappeared entirely. The women of Thakurbari such as Pragyasundari Devi, Purnima Devi, and even works of renowned author and activist Mahasweta Devi, were meticulous in documenting their recipes. Thanks to them, we still have access to this incredible heritage.' Lau-er Halwa Subhajit also spoke of the now-rare padma luchir payesh – deep-fried fritters made with coconut and khowa , shaped like lotus flowers, fried in ghee, and then soaked in a milk-based dessert. 'Even the name is exquisite,' he smiles, 'and yet, such delicacies are nearly unheard of today.'
Indian Express
06-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
From Dudh shukto to Hemkonikar payesh: Tagore's Thakurbari's recipes brought alive again in 3-day festival
Long before restaurant menus and fusion trends, Bengal's culinary identity was crafted in homes like that of Rabindranath Tagore. Dishes such as uchchhe bori diye dudh shukto, bhaja muger dal pora, hemkonikar payesh, and kochi pathar jhol once graced the poet's table and reflected a kitchen steeped in refinement and tradition. Now, in an effort to revive these lost flavours, the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDCL) is bringing back this rich gastronomic legacy through a three-day food festival titled 'Banglar Shabekiyana Thakurbarir Ranna (Bengal traditional cuisine of Tagore's family)' to be held from May 9 to 11. This festival, curated as a tribute to Bengal's timeless food heritage, will present four elaborate thalis each day. The vegetarian option, lovingly named 'Chokher Bali,' will serve up classics like fulko luchi, narkel kuchi diye cholar daal, bori diye ucchey dudh shukto, kachalonka diye posto bata, bhaja muger daal pora, Thakurbarir chanar pulao, echorer kofta, kacha aamer chatni, papor, and end with sweets like shorbhaja, Hemkonikar payesh, and mishti paan. Alongside this are three non-vegetarian thalis, each representing a unique flavour palette. Like vegetarian thalis, non-vegitarian thalis are also named after Tagore's novels. 'Ghare Baire' celebrates chicken preparations, including the legendary Goyalondo steamer curry paired with basanti pulao and traditional accompaniments. 'Punoscho' is a seafood lover's delight with sorshey pabda and the rich Thakurbarir chingrir malaikari or doi katla, all thoughtfully paired with nostalgic sides. 'Sesher Kobita,' the mutton thali, features kochi pathar jhol, a delicate, flavourful curry of tender goat meat and potatoes, highlighting the depth of Bengal's slow-cooked traditions. The menu offers more than just meals—it tells stories. 'The menus were selected from the tradition of Thakurbari. Thakurbari means not only Rabindranath Tagore. It's a long history from Dwarakanath Tagore to Devendranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore and Rathindranath Tagore. We tried to capture that tradition in food culture. Thakurbari has jamindari in Shilaidaha which was in East Bengal, but they also used to be interested in the food culture of Kolkata as well. On the other hand, the majority of wives of Thakurbari were from Jashore, which also belongs to East Bengal. So, there is a mixture of culture in food and we tried to explain that in this festival,' said a senior official of the state Tourism department. Dudh Shuktani, for instance, is a mildly spiced medley of milk, bitter gourd, ridge gourd, sweet potato, and mustard seeds, infused with the distinctive aroma of panch phoron. Thakurbarir aloo dum, cooked in ghee with a hint of hing and ginger paste, offers warmth and subtlety in every bite. Bhaja motor dal pora, made from roasted yellow split peas blended with mustard oil, green chillies, and onions, is shaped into crisp fritters that bring texture and heart to the plate. Each dish is rooted in the cultural fabric of Bengal, offering not just taste but also memory. What makes the experience even more inviting is its accessibility. Priced between Rs. 525 and Rs. 730, these generously portioned thalis are designed to be enjoyed by all. The festival will run in four locations simultaneously—Bolpur (Shantiniketan), Bankura (Bishnupur), Barrackpore (Mongoldhara), and Bidhannagar (Udayachal)—with dining slots open from 12 pm to 3 pm and again from 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm. A senior official from WBTDCL noted that 'this initiative serves a dual purpose, it honours the culinary traditions of Jorasanko Thakurbari while also showcasing the talent and potential of the tourism department's own culinary wing.' He said, 'To deepen the immersive feel of the event, all staff will be dressed in traditional Bengali attire—dhoti and panjabi—bringing back the sights and spirit of a bygone era.' For anyone seeking authenticity, history, and the comforting embrace of true Bengali cuisine, this festival promises a rare opportunity to travel back in time—one plate at a time.
