29-03-2025
I tried Paul Askew's new street food venture and drew some confused looks from strangers
There's not many bigger names in the Liverpool culinary world than Paul Askew. The chef-owner of The Art School in the Georgian Quarter, who has been at his flagship restaurant on Sugnall Street for over a decade, moved to the city from Sunderland when he was four years old and has since been involved in developing some of its most notable food experiences, including the London Carriage Works.
More recently, in 2021, Askew, who is known by the nickname 'Porky' to many in the hospitality industry, opened 'Scouse brasserie' Barnacle in Duke Street Market. However, it left the venue earlier this year.
Despite this, the Barnacle name lives on, currently with a street food stall on the Royal Albert Dock. The stall, which opened last week and trades from a blue shipping container close to the dock's south entrance, serves up dishes which include burgers, pies and oysters.
READ MORE: Beloved Bold Street restaurant returning after note left in window
READ MORE: I used to spend hours shopping on Bold Street now its unique identity is dwindling before our eye
It was a grey Tuesday at the waterfront when I took myself for lunch at the new Barnacle stall, which was receiving noticeably less custom than its competitors in the vicinity. The Albert Dock has seen a massive improvement in the offering of its street food in recent years. A decade ago it was limited to Mr Whippy ice cream and the odd poor-quality burger, while now, there's a Greek, a Mexican, a Turkish - and now Barnacle.
Unlike some of its counterparts, Barnacle has no tables or chairs outside for people to sit and enjoy its food, but there are some grass benches around the side that could do the job if you want to sit. I ordered a coffee at Costa a few metres down and sat on the benches there.
As I settled in, I couldn't help but notice a few confused looks from passers-by, who probably didn't expect to see someone dining al fresco with a side of oysters. But hey, that's what makes street food fun, right?
The three oysters, pickled in cornichon juice, dill oil and buttermilk dressing (£9), were presented as well as possible considering they were in a takeaway box. Brilliantly fresh, they were creamy and slightly acidic - without being too much so. Garnished with some fresh herb on top, the oysters served as a wonderful, refreshing snack while sitting and gazing at the waterfront.
Barnacle offers what it calls a 'luxury smash burger' (£12.50), made from Cheshire venison and pork, with shredded lettuce, red onion jam, cheese and pickles on a brioche bun. The meat was juicy, good-quality and flavourful while the cheese melted perfectly without splitting.
A brioche bun added a sweetness which paired well with the pork but the added sugar from the onion jam made it all a little too sweet, slightly overpowering the burger's taste. That said, all in all, it was a perfectly decent sandwich.
Perhaps greedily, I also ordered a croque monsieur (£9), filled with a good amount of grilled gammon topped with a rich and creamy mornay cheese sauce. On toasted sourdough, it was served with fresh Wirral watercress.
Barnacle's street food van on the Albert Dock serves up quick and well-executed dishes while the use of ingredients such as Wirral watercress and Cheshire venison signal a prioritisation of local produce. It's staff are friendly and talkative, the destination is beautiful and the food isn't too dear - in spite of its location.
It stands as yet another splendid addition to the area's food scene.
