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Telegraph
24-04-2025
- Telegraph
How to tackle Britain's greatest walking route
The Pennine Way, a National Trail, is Britain's oldest long-distance footpath. Opened on April 24 1965 with a ceremony on Malham Moor, it paved the way for public access to some of England's wildest landscapes. The route passes through three national parks – the Peak District, the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland – as well as the North Pennines National Landscape (formerly AONB). Approximately half the Way crosses open moorland or through pastures and about a tenth of the trail is forest, woodland or riverbank. Whose idea was it? Tom Stephenson (1893-1987) was brought up in Whalley and championed the creation of national parks and the right to roam. He was secretary of the Ramblers Association and, as a journalist at the Daily Herald, penned a seminal 1935 article about a 'long, green trail' linking the Pennines to Scotland. He campaigned tirelessly for 30 years to create the Pennine Way and authored the first official Pennine Way guidebook, published by HMSO in 1969. Alfred Wainwright's Pennine Way Companion was published by the Westmorland Gazette a year earlier. Where does it go? Despite being a Lancastrian man's vision, the Pennine Way bypasses the county, following England's rocky spine from the hills of the Derbyshire Peak District and the Yorkshire Dales, through the Swaledale Valley, across the North Pennines and over Hadrian's Wall in Northumberland to the Cheviot Hills, ending on the Scottish side of the Borders in Kirk Yetholm. On the official interactive map you'll notice that the route is not arrow-straight, with a major dog-leg close to Barnard Castle and a west-to-east section along Hadrian's Wall near Haltwhistle. Leisure-oriented towns within walking distance of the Way include Hebden Bridge, Haworth, Horton in Ribblesdale and Hawes. When in doubt – or lost – think: letter H. What are the highlights? The literal high points include Kinder Scout, Bleaklow Head, Black Hill, Pen-y-ghent, Black Hill, Great Shunner Fell, Great Dun Fell, Cross Fell, Windy Gyle and the Schil – ranging in altitude between 1,900 and 2,900 feet. Landmarks are the Kinder plateau, Malham Cove, the Tan Hill Inn (the UK's highest pub), Swaledale, High Force, Cauldron Snout, High Cup, Hadrian's Wall and the border ridge through The Cheviots. How long does it take? The official length of the Pennine Way is 268 miles, but most walkers hike something closer to 253 miles. The longer length includes both sides of the Bowes Loop, both route options into Kirk Yetholm, the alternative route at High Cup Nick and the detour to the summit of The Cheviot. Full-length walkers typically allow between 16 to 19 days to walk the Way, hiking 13-15 miles each day. It's no mean feat, and some people prefer to break it into three or four separate challenges, or walk only those sections where the landscape and weather are less inclined to be bleak and lonely. The National Trail website breaks the walk into 16 sections. Guidebook publisher Cicerone suggests splitting the Way into 20 one-day walks. How fit do you need to be? The original premise of the path was to be as natural as feasible, containing 'no concrete or asphalt'. Early Pennine Wayfarers faced bothersome stretches of waterlogged terrain, no rare thing along a watershed. There are still morasses and peat bogs – worst after winter and big storms – but, to protect the peat and to prevent the path from growing wider than the M6, slabs have been laid over many of the delicate, erosion-prone areas. The entire Pennine Way involves an ascent of 40,000 feet, more than summiting Everest. But there are very few steep gradients compared with tackling, say, the Lakeland fells or crossing the Pennines via the Coast to Coast. If you can read a map and comfortably walk at least 12 miles in a day, you will be capable of completing the Way. Add rest and recovery days to your schedule if you can afford the time. When to go? The Pennine Way is busiest in the summer months, when people take their big annual holidays. It's the most pleasant time to walk in Northern England, accommodation, pubs, facilities and bus services are up and running, and camping is viable. Long days and reliable(ish) sunshine turn even moorland tramping into a holiday experience. Spring and autumn can be lovely, too, with fine days and flowers or fading foliage. Newborn lambs add their cute baas to the birdsong in mid-spring. Autumn sees blackberries and, if the summer has been dry, solid ground underfoot. Winter is usually harsh in the Pennines, with bitter cold and deep snow getting more probable the further north you go, meaning walkers have to consider extra kit and back-up plans. Is the route waymarked? The Pennine Way is a designated right of way from start to finish. This means it should be open at all times and always be free of obstructions. The route comprises public footpaths, bridleways, byways and highways. Signposts usually include the works 'Pennine Way' and the official National Trail 'acorn' symbol, plus a directional arrow. The Pennine Way intersects with the Pennine Bridleway on a handful of occasions, when it pays to be alert so you don't take a major diversion. What direction is best? Most people walk the Pennine Way from south to north, because southwesterly winds are more common than northerlies or northeasterlies – and it's more pleasant to have the wind on your back than in your face. That said, if you go in the other direction, you can count on days getting warmer as you walk. The southern half also has more towns, villages, pubs, transport options and people. Can I cycle or ride it? Only 30 per cent of the route follows bridle paths, so if you want to cycle rather than walk you'll need to divert onto the equally challenging 205-mile Pennine Bridleway National Trail. It claims to be 'specially designed' for horseriders, but information on stabling and horse-friendly accommodation is thin on the ground. Where can I sleep? The Pennine Way has a range of accommodation options, including hotels, B&Bs, hostels, bunkhouses and campsites, but they tend to be clustered around busy villages and towns and in some places walkers may be limited to a single address. There are four bothies along the route – at Top Withens (aka 'Wuthering Heights'), on the north flank of Cross Fell (the highest peak on the Way), close to Lamb Hill and south of the Schil. Are luggage transfers available? A handful of companies offer accommodation booking and/or baggage transfer along the Pennine Way. Sherpavan and Brigantes – among others – provide luggage transfer services from March 31 to October 19. The idea is to carry what you need for 3-5 days and then swap all your kit. Transfers cost £23.50 to £40 per bag per move. Macs Adventure, Mickledore, and Walkers Britain are among the tour firms selling self-guided holiday packages, which are essentially accommodation bookings plus luggage couriers. Footpath Holidays offers three six-day walks (covering the whole Way) with guides, but its July 2025 departures are already sold out. See a comprehensive list of tour operators here. How do I travel to the start and end points? Most railway lines and bus routes cross the Pennines from east to west and vice-versa, and relatively few routes run parallel to the Pennine Way. Edale is on the Hope Valley line linking Manchester and Sheffield. Kirk Yetholm is served by the 81 bus from Kelso, which has the 67 bus to Berwick-upon-Tweed for the East Coast Main Line. More details here. What kit do I need? Standard backpacking gear is needed, including a rucksack you can comfortably carry, sturdy boots, hat, good waterproofs, a change of dry clothes, flashlight, sun protection and sunglasses. Check the weather and consider the season. Take the relevant OS map(s) – you can buy a weatherproof bundle of seven maps for less than £100 – and don't rely on phones, GPX or digital services. What do you get for completing it? Half a pint and a certificate at the Border Hotel in Kirk Yetholm – which has ensuite bedrooms with baths and showers.
Daily Mirror
22-04-2025
- Daily Mirror
Hidden gems along Britain's mythical Pennine Way as first national trail celebrates milestone
Marking its 60th anniversary, Sarah Marshall unveils the hidden gems of the famous 268 mile Penine Way, along with the best offers to visit it for a summer staycation. Britain's country paths have been traversed by thousands of pilgrims and hikers over the centuries, but the first official national trail was only introduced in modern times. Inspired by America's Appalachian Trail, journalist and rambler Tom Stephenson published an article in the Daily Herald calling for a " long green trail" that could form "the backbone of England". It took 30 years of battling with landowners for his dream to become a reality, with The Pennine Way finally inaugurated on April 24, 1965. Stretching for 268 miles from Edale in Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders, the path winds through three national parks: the Peak District, Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland. It crosses forests, moorlands and ancient Roman remnants along Hadrian's Wall, with a total ascent exceeding the height of Mount Everest. Beyond its recreational significance, it marked a watershed moment in Britain's access rights movement, opening up wild areas to all citizens and paving the way for more national trails. In honour of this month's 60th anniversary, hundreds of travellers are expected to visit the North of England, either to hike part of the path or simply enjoy the natural surroundings. These are some of the best ways to commemorate one of the world 's most important rambling routes. Hike a scenic section Rather than tackle the full thing, sample a standout section on a new four-night guided walking holiday. From a base in Appleby-in-Westmorland at one of the trailheads, venture out each day to explore an area lying between the Pennines and the Lake District fells. Follow a disused railway line over viaducts, admire the deep glacial gorge of High Cup Nick, and marvel at the stone structures of Nine Standards Rigg. Stroll along the River Eden, explore market town Appleby and visit Rutter Mill, a water-powered corn mill, and the waterfall. Book it: The four-night Enchanting Eden Valley tour starts from £649 per person, including half-board accommodation and guide. Departs July 7, August 18 and September 15, 2025. Dine on fine food Inns served as a literal lifeline for medieval travellers passing through Northumberland. Many provided shelter for pilgrims moving between the treacherous border region between England and Scotland. One of the oldest buildings still standing is in the honey-bricked village of Blanchland, overlooking the moorlands. Dating back to the 12th century, The Lord Crewe Arms has since been remodelled as one of the region's top culinary boutique hotels with a choice of dining rooms and cosy nooks for sipping locally brewed pints. As part of a new monthly Taste of the North East series, guest chefs from the region will treat diners to a menu of seasonal delights, with 75% of all profits donated to charity. On April 28, Damian Broom, executive chef at Seaham Hall, will be helming the kitchen. Book it: Tickets from £75 per person, including a welcome glass of sparkling wine and coffee. Wine pairings extra. Doubles at the Lord Crewe Arms from £160 per night, including breakfast. Get on your bike Not everyone has the stamina to hike but that doesn't mean missing out. "While the 268-mile stretch is primarily a walking route, road trippers can choose to take the easterly A1 passing through Leeds, Durham and Newcastle, or the westerly M6 through Manchester and the Lake District," recommends Max Schmidt, head of CamperDays. "Picking up a four-person roadsurfer Surfer Suite van from Manchester, April 26 to May3, will cost £723 total, while a four-person Bunk Campers Mystery 2 from London will cost £565. For something a little more luxurious, picking up the four-person McRent Comfort Luxury from Manchester over the same dates would cost £1,055 total." Witness local wildlife Some of the biggest beneficiaries of protected areas are undoubtedly the wild species that inhabit them. Thanks to conservation efforts, Britain's wildlife manages to thrive in national parks. The reservoirs and woodlands of the Pennine Way are home to many bird species and Britain's only mountain hare. Focusing on the Peak District, wildlife specialists Naturetrek offers a dedicated birding day trip led by naturalist Matthew Capper, with a chance to see moorland birds like the ring ouzel, curlew, whinchat and wheatear. Visit a blanket bog to see important populations of golden plover and dunlin, and head to woodlands for pied flycatchers and redstarts. Sip blended botanicals A strenuous hike deserves a decent liquid reward. Along with fine food and beers, world-class gins are produced in this part of the world, providing an opportunity to sample nature's delights in a different way. Part of Northumberland National Park's Hepple Estate, which has moved away from sheep, commodity timber and game shooting towards rewilding, the Hepple Spirits Distillery is set in one of Britain's most biodiverse landscapes. Learn about conservation efforts and sustainable techniques used to harvest botanicals including hawthorn, Douglas fir, lovage, bog myrtle and blackcurrant leaves. A private tour can be arranged for guests staying at the historic Kirkstyle Inn in Slaggyford, an ideal base for walkers on the trail.
The Guardian
09-04-2025
- The Guardian
The Guardian view on the Pennine Way: a pioneer of long-distance soul therapy
For those seeking pastoral shelter from the storm of world events this spring, there is a special incentive to look north. Sixty years old this month, the Pennine Way is being celebrated in style, with guided walks and an exhibition at the Dales Countryside Museum in Wensleydale. In North Yorkshire, speeches and a singsong are planned to mark the April day, in 1965, when the village of Malham hosted the opening of Britain's first national trail. The recognition is richly deserved. Stretching 268 miles from Derbyshire to the Scottish Borders, the establishment of the Pennine Way represented an epic political achievement as well as a new leisure option. Though the inhabitants of northern mill towns and mining communities had a voracious appetite for open spaces and beauty, local landowners were for decades reluctant to give it to them. The postwar campaigning work of the Lancashire journalist Tom Stephenson and the Ramblers' Association opened up swaths of private moorland previously fenced off behind 'No Trespassing' signs. The rest has been walking history. Tens of millions now visit the 15 national trails of England and Wales annually. Stephenson's route across the northern uplands has an intimidating reputation for austere splendour amid biting winds. But less challenging experiences are also available. The Thames Path from the Cotswolds to London is a much milder, gentler affair, and constitutes the longest river walk in Europe. The desire to immerse oneself in such natural glory is often combined with more personal motives for leaving everyday life behind. Next month, the film version of Raynor Winn's 2018 bestseller, The Salt Path, will be released, starring Gillian Anderson and Jason Isaacs. In Winn's memoir, she and her husband decide to set off on the 630-mile South Coast Path, which becomes a redemptive backdrop as hiking helps them to come to terms with sudden homelessness and serious illness. Other authors, such as Sharon Blackie, David Nicholls and Robert Macfarlane, have explored the spiritual dimensions to an activity that can concentrate the mind, removing the quotidian clutter which prevents it from thinking clearly. In the 21st century, long-distance walking is perhaps best seen as a form of secular pilgrimage, in which homage to our natural landscape is literally paid on the hoof. As in Chaucer's time, the path can sometimes be a self-imposed endurance test, but will usually feature a generous number of hostelries along the way. For millions, the familiar acorn symbol marking a national trail route amounts to an invitation to some free soul therapy. Sixty years on, those northern pioneers would rightly take that as a win. Columnising for the Daily Herald in 1935, Stephenson envisioned the collective wellbeing his pet project could deliver: 'None could walk that Pennine Way,' he wrote, 'without being improved in mind and body, inspired and invigorated and filled with the desire to explore every corner of this lovely island.' From Cornwall to the North Downs, and the ruins of Hadrian's Wall, an army of backpackers will prove him right this Easter.
The Independent
19-03-2025
- The Independent
Where to wine, dine and hike along Britain's original national trail
From pilgrims to hikers, thousands have traversed Britain's countryside paths over the centuries - but only in 1965, was the first official national trail inaugurated. The idea was first proposed by journalist Tom Stephenson who said a "long green trail" which could form "the backbone of England", in an article in the Daily Herald. It took 30 years of battling with landowners for his dream to become a reality. The Pennine Way is a 268-mile (431 km) trail stretching from Edale in Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders, whose path winds through three national parks: the Peak District, Yorkshire Dales, and Northumberland. The trail - inspired by America's Appalachian Trail - crosses forests, moorlands, and ancient Roman remnants along Hadrian's Wall, with a total ascent exceeding the height of Mount Everest. Beyond its recreational significance, it marked a watershed moment in Britain's access rights movement, opening up wild areas to all citizens and paving the way for more national trails. In honour of this April's 60th anniversary, hundreds of travellers are expected to visit the north of England – either to hike part of the iconic path or simply enjoy the natural surroundings. These are some of the best ways to commemorate one of the world's most important rambling routes. Hike a scenic section Rather than tackle the full thing, sample a stand-out section on a new four-night guided walking holiday. From a base in Appleby-in-Westmorland at one of the trailheads, venture out each day to explore an area lying between the Pennines and the Lake District Fells. Follow a disused railway line passing over grand viaducts, admire the deep glacial gorge of High Cup Nick, and marvel at the stone structures of Nine Standards Rigg. Stroll along the River Eden, explore market town Appleby and visit Rutter Mill, an historic water-powered corn mill and waterfall. How: The four-night Enchanting Eden Valley tour starts from £649 per person, including half-board accommodation and guide. Departs July 7, August 18 and September 15, 2025. Visit Inns served as a literal lifeline for medieval travellers passing through Northumberland. Many provided shelter for pilgrims moving between the treacherous border region between England and Scotland. One of the oldest buildings still standing is in the honey-bricked village of Blanchland, overlooking the moorlands. Dating back to the 12th century, The Lord Crewe Arms has since been remodelled as one of the region's top culinary boutique hotels with a choice of dining rooms and cosy nooks for sipping locally brewed pints. As part of a new monthly Taste of the North East series, guest chefs from the region will treat 16 diners to a menu of seasonal delights, with 75 per cent of all profits donated to charity. On April 28, Damian Broom, executive chef at Seaham Hall, will be helming the kitchen. How: Tickets from £75 per person, including a welcome glass of sparkling wine and coffee. Wine pairings extra. Doubles at the Lord Crewe Arms from £160 per night, including breakfast. Visit Enjoy the route on four wheels Not everyone has the stamina to hike – but that doesn't mean missing out on the scenery. 'While the 268-mile stretch is primarily a walking route, road trippers can choose to take the easterly A1 passing through Leeds, Durham and Newcastle upon Tyne, or the westerly M6 through Manchester and the Lake District,' recommends Max Schmidt, head of CamperDays. 'Picking up a four-person roadsurfer Surfer Suite from Manchester over dates 26 April – 3 May will cost £723 total, while a four-person Bunk Campers Mystery 2 from London will cost £565. For something a little more luxurious, picking up the four-person McRent Comfort Luxury from Manchester over the same dates would cost £1,055 total.' How: Visit Some of the biggest beneficiaries of protected areas are undoubtedly the wild species that inhabit them. Thanks to conservation efforts, Britain's wildlife manages to thrive in national parks. The reservoirs and woodlands of the Pennine Way are home to multiple bird species and Britain's only mountain hare. Focusing on the Peak District, wildlife specialist Naturetrek offers a dedicated birding day trip led by naturalist Matthew Capper, with a chance to see moorland birds like the ring ouzel, curlew, whinchat and wheatear. Visit a blanket bog to see important populations of golden plover and dunlin, and head to woodlands for pied flycatcher and redstart. How: Dark Peak day trips from £60pp. May departures are currently full but get in touch for future dates. Visit A strenuous hike deserves a decent liquid reward. Along with fine food and beers, world-class gins are produced in this part of the world – providing an opportunity to sample nature's delights in a different way. Part of Northumberland National Park's Hepple Estate, which has moved away from sheep, commodity timber and traditional game shooting towards rewilding, the Hepple Gin Distillery is set within one of Britain's most biodiverse landscapes. Learn about conservation efforts and sustainable techniques used to harvest botanicals including hawthorn, Douglas fir, lovage, bog myrtle and blackcurrant leaves. A private tour can be arranged for guests staying at the historic Kirkstyle Inn in Slaggyford, an ideal base for walkers on the trail.
