07-03-2025
What it's like to go camping under Britain's starriest skies
It was dark when we arrived at the campsite, winding our way along a short footpath. This felt correct. We were at the aptly named Stargazer Glamping in Herefordshire to marvel at its wide open skies, and to stargaze without interruption. Something that, in light-filled London, is increasingly difficult.
Our eyes were rooted on earth, though, at least at first. On a well-spaced plot were three spacious, white teepees, far apart enough that each felt private. In front of ours was a fire pit and hot tub, and each had a well-stocked, wooden-hut kitchen and comfortable furnishings. But here, it was the outside that really mattered.
After settling in, it was a matter of creating the optimum scenario for stargazing, as if gathering blankets and reorganising the chairs would coax out the most shy constellations. The fire pit, after some negotiation with errant kindling, was ablaze. Provisions – cheese, crisps, and biscuits, all prepared in the kitchen hut – were laid out in a respectable spread. And the sky was, definitively, noticeably, darker.
Stargazing Glamping provides a telescope to observe the night sky. It's worth fiddling around with this to enhance the view of the moon. It was a battle of sorts, struggling along the root-covered ground to find a suitably elevated spot; fiddling with the screws to get the right angle. But its crinkly, beaming surface was a delight in the viewfinder.
The campsite owners leave this with a stargazing book in the pantry area, meaning that the thing we had come for – a cloudless, heavenly display of stars to rival Van Gogh's – could be parsed. We were also armed with a Herefordshire-specific stargazing guide, which has identification tips alongside nocturnal walking routes. Fire ready, telescope poised, we began.
'That's the Plough,' I said proudly, pretending this wasn't something a child might also know. 'And Orion,' my partner added. It wasn't exactly Patrick Moore level stuff.
It was, very suddenly, very dark. And as our eyes adjusted, the pinpricks of light became clear: there, the Canis Minor; above us, Gemini. The constellations were revealing themselves: Auriga, Perseus, Taurus. We continued pointing upwards, at a slower and slower frequency, before falling silent. This is how we spent the evening: sitting, quietly, watching the stars.
If visitors prefer a guide, a short drive to the Tudor Farmhouse Hotel will equip visitors with all the instruction they might need. At nighttime, 'star storyteller' Jim Bell guides guests around the site – and the heavens – bringing his portable planetarium with him in case of cloud cover.
And the south west is not the only spot for stargazing. The UK has seven International Dark Sky Reserves, from Exmoor to the Yorkshire Dales, plus two more Dark Sky Parks. And there are campsites in many of them. Glamping, of course, makes the whole process a less DIY and rather more luxurious – but, crucially, you're still outside. And if you're looking to get little ones into stargazing, having activities, and an onsite kitchen, and a comfortable bed, might make the process a bit easier.
At Stargazer Glamping, this will likely extend to the quirky fairy garden at the edge of the field, filled with tiny mirrors, toadstools and impish figurines. For adults, the daytime opens up possibilities of a good hike through hedgerow-lined country lanes. Really, though, you won't want to leave the glampsite, which is essentially a thriving, wildlife-filled garden.
We heard dunnock, wren, chiffchaff, blackcap, chaffinch and more during breakfast. Once an orchard, the plot is lined with gnarled fruit trees, making it a suitably bucolic spot for a morning coffee. Or get energetic, like we did, and play a game of badminton (the requisite racquets and shuttlecocks helpfully provided).
All of this, though, fades away at nighttime. Although those plump, perfectly made beds are inviting, nothing is more compelling than the night sky.
Essentials
Stays at Stargazer Glamping start from £250 per night, sleeping up to four. Book on Hipcamp here.
Find more stargazing campsites by using the Hipcamp Dark Sky filter here. The dedicated stargazing guide recommends specific places to stay during key astronomical events.
The 'Stargazing Safari' at the Tudor Farmhouse is available on dates in September, October and December, with private bookings also possible. Tickets are priced at £40 per adult; £20 for under 16s. Find out more here.
