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'Superfine' and Dandy: Iconic Creatives Celebrate the Costume Institute's New Exhibition
'Superfine' and Dandy: Iconic Creatives Celebrate the Costume Institute's New Exhibition

Vogue Arabia

time06-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue Arabia

'Superfine' and Dandy: Iconic Creatives Celebrate the Costume Institute's New Exhibition

Skip to main content Meet the actors, athletes, musicians, models, and creatives living out the theme of this year's Met Gala Photography by Tyler Mitchell April 17, 2025 TRUE ORIGINALS From left: Vintage collector Lana Turner wears a Duro Olowu jacket and dress. Filmmaker Spike Lee in a Christopher John Rogers coat (christopher​johnrogers​.com) and Theophilio suit (theophilio​.com). Model and actor Daryl Dismond wears an Orange Culture suit; modaoperandi​.com. Designer Dapper Dan in a Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria suit; Dolce & Gabbana boutiques for requests. Fashion Editor: Law Roach. Photographed by Tyler Mitchell, Vogue , May 2025. 'It's not just a dream realized; it's a historic moment,' says Mitchell of working with both Roach and this stellar group. 'It's the kind of work we all strive toward.' As the director and producer Janicza Bravo—who appears below with model Alton Mason and artist Ferrari Sheppard—put it, when reflecting on both the 'Superfine' theme and the idea behind this shoot: 'Dandyism is flair, it's wit, and a kind of ease and comfortability with oneself.' We couldn't have said it better ourselves. HE'S GOTTA HAVE IT Spike Lee, whose next feature, Highest 2 Lowest , will premiere at Cannes in May, in a Theophilio suit. FULL FLOWER Dapper Dan in Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria. FUNNY GIRL 'I think with a lot of African people, your traditional outfits get made,' says actor Ayo Edebiri, soon to appear in Luca Guadagnino's After the Hunt. 'As a child, I thought it was torture, but now I have very precious memories of family and friends pinning clothes on me—it's a really intimate, beautiful thing.' Chanel dress; select Chanel boutiques. Seymoure gloves. Balmain shoes. Chanel High Jewelry earrings. CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY From left: Actor Myha'la, star of HBO's Industry, in a Sergio Hudson suit and Gigi Burris Millinery hat. Musician Jon Batiste in a Dunhill suit and Rolex watch. Actor and singer Jeremy Pope, a star of Ryan Murphy's new FX series The Beauty, in a Dunhill suit and Bvlgari watch. ELECTRIC FEEL Model Anok Yai is a neon dream in a Sergio Hudson suit, shirt, and tie; sergiohudson​.com. Jacques Marie Mage glasses; jacques​mariemage​.com. THE WHEEL DEAL 'What I've always been so impressed by in Black aesthetics is the idea that we can appropriate things that have often been used to oppress us,' says Yara Shahidi (left)—actor and host of SiriusXM's The Optimist Project. Coat, shoes, and scarf from Gucci; gucci​.com. Cartier earrings; cartier​.com for inquiries. Actor Aaron Pierre, who will join Apple TV+'s The Morning Show in its upcoming fourth season, wears a Tom Ford tuxedo; Christian Louboutin shoes; GOOD SPORTS From left: Skateboarder Tyshawn Jones, basketball player A'ja Wilson, and football player Justin Jefferson in Willy Chavarria suits; willychavarria​.com for similar styles. Jones wears an Audemars Piguet watch and Graff ring. Wilson wears a Boucheron ring. Jefferson wears Christian Louboutin shoes. GAME CHANGERS From left: Model Tyson Beckford in a Bottega Veneta suit; bottegaveneta​.com. Sprinter Noah Lyles in a Gucci suit ( Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses, and Omega watch. Both wear Christian Louboutin shoes. MASCULIN FÉMININ Actor Naomi Ackie wears vintage Louis Vuitton; for similar styles. Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. earrings and ring; select Tiffany & Co. boutiques. Hair, Ro Morgan; makeup, Kenneth Soh. STUDIO SESSION Artist Rashid Johnson—the subject of a major solo exhibition, 'A Poem for Deep Thinkers,' at New York's Guggenheim Museum this month—wears a Tom Ford suit and tie; tomford​fashion​.com. Eton shirt; eton​shirts​.com. Christian Louboutin shoes; christian​louboutin​.com. Howl rings; Gin & The Banker. WELL SUITED 'If I absolutely have to put on a dress, then I put on a dress—but something about a suit just feels so powerful,' says singer-actor Teyana Taylor (left), whom you can soon see in Tyler Perry's Straw , here with Janelle Monáe (who will appear in Aleshea Harris's film adaptation of her play Is God Is ). Both in Marni; Taylor wears Le Silla shoes. Monáe wears Jimmy Choo shoes; BLACK BEAUTY Models Achol Ayor (far left, standing) and Ajus Samuel (on stepladder) wear Celine Homme by Hedi Slimane. Model Layla Etengan (on floor) wears a Maison Margiela jacket. Model Rejoice Chuol (third from left) in The Row. Model Victoria Fawole (third from right) wears a Thom Browne jacket. Models Yar Aguer (in profile) and Agel Akol (at rear, standing) in Maison Margiela. Model Laura Reyes (far right, standing) wears Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Bailey 1922 hats. REMEMBER THE TARTANS Models Julez Smith (left) and Imaan Hammam go mad for plaid—he in a Torishéju jacket (Dover Street Market, New York), Dunhill shirt, and Amiri trousers ( she in a Thom Browne coat (thombrowne​.com), Torishéju skirt, and Christian Louboutin shoes. BLOOM TIME Model Adut Akech is all in on the power of suits, which make her feel, she says, 'boss lady, badass, and just very chic and fun—at the same time.' Marine Serre coat; Ralph Lauren Collection shirt and pants; ralph​lauren​.com. Esenshel hat; Esenshel, New York. David Yurman ring; davidyurman​.com. GOING LONG Fashion editor Law Roach in Walter Van Beirendonck. CREATIVE CLASS From left: For Janicza Bravo—director and producer of the BBC series The Listeners —'dandyism is flair, it's wit, and a kind of ease and comfortability with oneself.' Bravo wears Thom Browne; thombrowne​.com. Model Alton Mason in a Valentino suit; Valentino boutiques. Seymoure gloves and Christian Louboutin shoes. Artist Ferrari Sheppard in a Brunello Cucinelli suit and Eton shirt ( DAYS OF WILD Yai indulges her animal instinct in a Theophilio coat and hat; NEUTRAL GROUND Designer Jerry Lorenzo (left) and actor LaKeith Stanfield (a star of Lynne Ramsay's upcoming film Die, My Love ) both wear Fear of God; 'I think you see a lot of creativity in the history of Black style,' Lorenzo says. 'It's a tool to make it easier to get into certain rooms—to not necessarily be recognised, but to just be seen.' Stanfield wears a David Yurman ring. SHARE MY WORLD From left: Artist Jordan Casteel wears a Wales Bonner jacket and shirt; Van Cleef & Arpels ring; Designer Grace Wales Bonner wears her own brand. Cartier ring; for inquiries. HEAD TURNER Singer Yseult—who is now touring her second studio album, 2024's Mental —wears a Dior jacket and pants; Dior boutiques for similar styles. Tiffany & Co. earrings and rings; select Tiffany & Co. boutiques. Theophilio by Chrishabana brooch. THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING IDLE From left: Rapper Akeem Ali wears an MM6 Maison Margiela coat, Ozwald Boateng suit, and Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. brooch. Actor and model Keith Powers—next set to appear in John Burr's film The Gates —wears a Brunello Cucinelli jacket, Amiri shirt and trousers, and Omega watch. Actor Danielle Deadwyler—star of R.T. Thorne's postapocalyptic thriller 40 Acres —wears Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Artist Honor Titus wears a Giuliva Heritage jacket and Bode pants. 'For us to find a medium—whether it be fashion, language, art, sport—where we can express ourselves and express our dynamism and our excitement,' Titus says, 'that's always truly divine and always welcome.' In this story: hair, Sondrea 'Dre' Demry-Sanders; makeup, Keita Moore; grooming, Camille Ariane and Alex Keating; barbers, Don Brown and Kyle Smith; manicurist, Dawn Sterling; tailors, Carol Ai at Carol Ai Studio Tailors; Daniella at R-Zee Tailoring; Da Shoné by DaSh; Matthew Reisman; Tae Yoshida; Travis Thi. Produced by Rosco Production. Set Design: Julia Wagner. Article originally published on Vogue US

Met Gala 2025: 5 Australian fashion experts on the best looks, from Rihanna to Doechii
Met Gala 2025: 5 Australian fashion experts on the best looks, from Rihanna to Doechii

ABC News

time06-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • ABC News

Met Gala 2025: 5 Australian fashion experts on the best looks, from Rihanna to Doechii

There's never been a Met Gala like this one. The 2025 gala had a heightened sense of purpose, with the "Tailored for You" theme celebrating 300 years of Black self-expression across the diaspora, in recognition of the contributions Black people have made to high fashion. It was inspired by With the red carpet over for another year, it's time to judge the celebrities on their interpretation of the theme. We asked five fashion experts in Australia — Samala Thakialee Cronin, Lynn Mathuthu, Tamara Leacock, Natisha Tabua and Sofia Stafford — for their takes on the stand-out looks of the night. Want more of the couture from fashion's night of nights? Catch up with our Precision tailoring and a moment in fashion history Tamara Leacock is the designer behind Naarm/Melbourne-based label . Tyler Mitchell US photographer Tyler Mitchell wears Wales Bonner. ( Getty: John Shearer ) "Tyler Mitchell is renowned for his use of diasporic storytelling in his image-making, so I was waiting for this look — and it didn't disappoint. Mitchell's outfit, by iconic Black English designer Grace Wales Bonner, is the embodiment of Black dandyism and multi-dimensionally expressed Black masculinity. "It features precision tailoring, provocative excess from grill to layer, and was complemented by precise hair and makeup. "I wish more Met Gala guests would have used the theme to platform Black designers like Mitchell, given we are in a time of diversity, equity and inclusion reversal, international art tariffs, and mono-nationalistic insularity. "But the fact not all did turns daring outfits like this one into a glimmer of hope." Doechii US rapper Doechii wears Louis Vuitton. ( Getty: Theo Wargo ) "Doechii — forever the icon, a Black queer femme artist who has danced in the realm of dandyism, sartorial explorations of Black masculinity, and an intentionally curated style — also made a moment of the details. "Working directly with Louis Vuitton creative director and Met Gala co-chair Pharrell Williams, she curated a look that reinterpreted the LV logo — often a sign of status within Black American diasporic communities — through the customisation of her suit and the integration of the logo into even her makeup. "The entire look felt like a nod to one of the most prominent figures of contemporary Black dandyism, [late Vogue editor-at-large] André Leon Talley. "Her decision to celebrate her Afro was a point of refreshing difference, as was the sartorial choice to don shorts. "Her look would have been more subversive had she collaborated with a Black-founded independent design house — nonetheless, it was a moment in fashion history." Zuri Hall US actor Zuri Hall wears Bishme Cromartie. ( Getty: Dimitrios Kambouris ) "Zuri Hall integrated garment re-imagining, potential upcycling inspo and even a potential nod to sustainability aesthetics with her custom backless suit gown by upcoming Black designer Bishme Cromartie." Storytelling in silhouette and a Harlem Rose Samala Thakialee Cronin is the Butchulla and Woppaburra designer behind Naarm/Melbourne-based label . Colman Domingo US actor Colman Domingo wears Valentino. ( AP: Invision/Evan Agostini ) "Colman stepped out like a sermon in silk. A tribute to the late, great André Leon Talley, he arrived as Black royalty draped in a beaded and embroidered royal blue cape — regal, reverent, and ready to deliver. "The suspense? Delicious. You knew he had something under there. And then…the custom Valentino zoot-suit-inspired reveal! Domingo blessed us not with just one outfit, but two. ( AP: Invision/Evan Agostini ) "It referenced the Zoot Suit Riots, the Moors, Mansa Musa — a whole legacy of resistance, style, and survival. "The brocade embroidery, the structure, the echo of Harlem and Renaissance lines with futuristic shine — this was storytelling in silhouette!" Teyana Taylor US singer-songwriter and actor Teyana Taylor wears Ruth E Carter in collaboration with Marc Jacobs. ( Photo by Michael Buckner/Penske Media via Getty Images ) "Teyana is the moment — quintessential Black excellence with a dandy twist. Styled in a striking red pinstripe suit by Ruth E Carter, complete with an ostrich feather plume, rose pin, cane and immaculate layering, she embodied everything the theme silently stood for: tailored resistance and radiant self-definition. "Her look was political, powerful and beautiful. It reminded me of our struggle here: to be seen other than just Black and white, that we are still here, all fine and dandy and colourfully lubly! "My first thought was 'Harlem Rose' and that was before I knew it was written on the cape. "In these interesting times, when diversity is seriously threatened, Teyana slayed this brief!" Whoopi Goldberg US actor, comedian and all-around icon Whoopi Goldberg wears Thom Browne. ( AP: Invision/Evan Agostini ) "Whoopi brings proper Boss energy as the High Priestess of Dandy. "She gave us powerful matriarch vibes, dressed in a custom Thom Browne creation that hit every note: a sequinned hourglass coat; a sculpted suit-dress; a sharp top hat. And the ultimate touch? Her silver-capped fingers. "With a wink (Whoopi style) to classic dandy styling and a full embrace of effortless Blak matriarch energy, Whoopi showed us that real icons don't need to shout. She kept it old-school, elegant, and untouched by trend." Quiet power and a look that transcended gender norms Sofia Stafford is the designer behind Naarm/Melbourne-based label . Imaan Hammam Dutch model Imaan Hammam wears Magda Butrym. ( Photo byfor The Met Museum/Vogue ) "Imaan Hammam dazzled in a modern reinterpretation of the zoot suit, showcasing a one-piece creation of stunning proportions. "The striking ensemble was complemented by Margiela x Louboutin heels, peeking out from the hem of her pants. A polka-dot tie added whimsy and served as a subtle homage to the jazz age, a period synonymous with Black cultural innovation and creative freedom. "The statement cane referenced the Harlem Renaissance and embodied themes of self-expression, dignity and resistance. To crown the ensemble, an ostrich feather hat delicately danced as she moved, adding both elegance and a touch of playfulness to her look. "Hammam displayed a bold statement of pride, defiance and the power of sartorial symbolism, perfectly capturing the essence of Black dandyism." Hunter Schafer US actor and model Hunter Schafer wears Prada. ( Photo by) "Layers of cool: adorned in a multi-layered Prada look, Hunter Schafer stunned in classic tailoring with crisp white shirting and a matching jacket that cinched at the waist, a black blazer effortlessly draped over her shoulders, and coordinating tailored trousers. "A white turtleneck peeked from beneath her collar, complemented by white leather gloves and a beret — paying homage to the iconic Black Panther uniform, symbolising political resistance. "It was a thoughtful, refined and quietly powerful interpretation of the theme." Janelle Monáe US singer-songwriter, rapper and actor Janelle Monáe wears Thom Browne. ( Getty Images: John Shearer/WireImage ) "Janelle Monáe is always one to watch, and they didn't disappoint in a captivating look by Thom Browne in collaboration with Paul Tazewell [who this year became the first Black man to win a costume design Oscar for his work on Wicked]. "She embodied a 'time-travelling dandy', drawing inspiration from 1930s tailoring while incorporating bold, futuristic elements. "The structured overcoat gave the illusion of stepping out of a time machine and revealed a deconstructed suit beneath. "The entire look transcended gender norms and stood out as a celebration of personal expression, paying homage to cultural and historical references." Embracing Sunday best and throwing out the rules is a stylist and fashion commentator living in Sydney on Gadigal land. Zendaya US actor Zendaya wears Louis Vuitton. ( AP: Invision/Evan Agostini ) "Zendaya and Imaan Hammam had similar looks, in the sense [they were both] very well-tailored white suits with super-high-waisted pants, hugging the body in all the right places — and just a beautiful accessory, the hat, to tie everything together. "It also reminds me of André Leon Talley, who talked a lot about his grandmother's Sunday best dress. There's something very church-y about [the hat], but not in a religious way: it's just very ritualistic." Lupita Nyong'o Kenyan-Mexican actor Lupita Nyong'o wears Chanel. ( Getty Images: Theo Wargo/FilmMagic ) "It was fun! I loved the colour. I don't think we saw a lot of colour this year — when people think of tailoring, they think of suiting, and of black and white. "I also just loved the little hat, it was reminiscent of that church dressing style [like Zendaya]. And that fabric, the chiffon [cape], and the Chanel camelia — it's letting you know what [designer] it is without being too overzealous. "And it's the same teal colour she wore when she won her Oscar! She must have her colour theory down, she knows what works for her skin tone." Rihanna Barbadian singer/businesswoman/icon Rihanna wears Marc Jacobs. ( Getty: Gilbert Flores ) "The history of the dandy, especially with the Harlem Renaissance, is Black people with money who play around with different elements because they're not trying to fit into a certain mould. "It's a little bit flashy, but it's fabulous — actually, A$AP Rocky said it was 'ghetto fabulous', which is my favourite comment. "She doesn't necessarily have to stick to a certain structure when it comes to dressing, because the whole point is you're not trying to align yourself with a white audience, so you've got no restrictions. You can play with the rules, the materials, the structure. "It's throwing out all of the rules. It's like she's playing with silhouette and she's playing with structure and she's playing with tailoring. It doesn't feel like it's abiding by anything." Black history in contemporary style and fashion as art Natisha Tabua is the Hanuabada, Daru, Kalkulgal, Fijian and Indian designer behind Naarm/Melbourne-based label . Khaby Lame Senegalese-Italian influencer Khaby Lame wears BOSS. ( Getty Images: Dia Dipasupil ) "Unapologetically, my favourite look from this year's Met Gala, Khaby Lame opted for a vintage-inspired grey pinstripe suit, also known as the zoot suit. "In the 1940s, zoot suits represented identity and cultural expression in the Black American community, with the intended desire of being seen and politically heard — a perfect alignment to the Gala's theme. "Topped off with a classic trench coat and accessorised with pocket watches, I can't help but love how much depth and Black history is in this look." Coco Jones US singer-songwriter Coco Jones wears Manish Malhotra. ( Getty Images: Jamie McCarthy ) "An exaggerated suit jacket cascading to the floor with matching pants, Coco Jones's look is absolute craftsmanship. "Handcrafted and embroidered by Manish Malhotra, this is why I love fashion. Fashion is art and expression and this garment is exactly that to me." Alton Mason US model, actor and dancer Alton Mason wears BOSS. ( Getty Images: Michael Buckner/Penske Media ) "This look to me is culture in contemporary style, which really speaks to me and the way I create. "It's an expression of the current generation being themselves unapologetically, creating how they want to create, with respect to their cultural backgrounds and upbringings. "Honestly, they look like a Black Anime superhero and I'm so here for that." Quotes lightly edited for clarity and brevity.

To Create a ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' the Met Enlisted a Superstar
To Create a ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' the Met Enlisted a Superstar

New York Times

time14-03-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

To Create a ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' the Met Enlisted a Superstar

Last year, when the Metropolitan Museum of Art invited a young photographer to shoot its highly anticipated spring 2025 fashion exhibition, the museum got something it probably wasn't expecting: a counteroffer. That may be because the invitation wasn't extended to just any young photographer but to Tyler Mitchell, who in 2018 became the first Black photographer to shoot a Vogue cover. (He was 23, and his subject was Beyoncé.) Although he said he would be happy to photograph objects from the exhibition — a cultural and sartorial examination of Black dandies — for a planned catalog, Mr. Mitchell came back to the Costume Institute with a pitch of his own: Instead of just immortalizing the garments in static shots, he would also showcase them as they were worn throughout history. 'The fact that we are for the first time talking about specifically the history of Black men's wear, this is an embodied conversation, and most of it lives on through photography,' Mr. Mitchell said in a recent phone interview. 'So it felt urgent to go beyond simply object documentation and go into real human lifestyle.' Now 29, Mr. Mitchell has made a name for himself exploring Black life through his work. In 2020, he published his debut photography monograph, 'I Can Make You Feel Good'; two years later, he had a solo exhibition at a London Gagosian gallery. In a 30-page photo spread and accompanying essay in the catalog for the Metropolitan exhibition, called 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,' Mr. Mitchell continues his exploration, investigating the ideas behind dandyism and examining its contemporary interpretations. The photos feature models wearing garments from the exhibition, in addition to self-described dandies like Iké Udé, Dandy Wellington and Michael Henry Adams, many wearing their own finery. The photo essay showcases several generations of Black men. In one image, a young boy wears a two-piece ensemble of deep blue crushed velvet, trimmed with cowrie shells and crystals, by the designer Grace Wales Bonner. Another shows a tableau of men in formal dress who also happen to sport an assortment of dramatic headpieces. Mr. Mitchell said he had wanted the photographs to be an interplay between the young and the old, highlighting the way different generations show up in different settings. 'I could see it quite immediately,' Mr. Mitchell said. 'When I was hearing the theme, ideas were coming. I wanted so badly to do something that could really support the show and also be a celebration of the current moment.' In simplest terms, the word 'dandy' is often used to describe someone, usually a man, who is deeply devoted to his own style. The Costume Institute show, which opens on May 10, was partly inspired by 'Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity' by Monica L. Miller, a professor of Africana studies at Barnard College. In the book, Professor Miller, who is also the guest curator of the exhibit, takes a close look at the Black dandy as a figure who emerged from 18th-century Europe, where Black male servants were made to dress up, essentially turning them into commodities. Eventually, Black people reclaimed the dandy identity, inverting the negative associations as a defiant show of power. Guided by Professor Miller's research, Mr. Mitchell worked with the museum's curatorial staff and a small team of frequent collaborators. He said he drew inspiration from a 'kaleidoscope' of artists: Isaac Julien, Toni Morrison, Greg Tate, James Van Der Zee and other figures from the Harlem Renaissance. 'It was a real creative exercise because we also kind of went above and beyond just the garments that were in the show,' he said. 'And so it became this kind of creative expression and essay, beyond the remit of just documenting the looks.' In his accompanying essay, titled 'Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' Mr. Mitchell recalled a white friend's astonishment after visiting Atlanta and seeing how Black people dressed up for situations that didn't necessarily call for elevated attire. Mr. Mitchell, who grew up in Marietta, Ga., a suburb of Atlanta, was surprised to hear this: In his experience, Black people in the South had always dressed that way. 'If you were just going to the mall, it was more than enough occasion to show up and show out, and dress by your own rules and your own agenda,' he said. He also carries with him memories of his mother and his wider community having high expectations of him to present respectfully, whether at church, school or elsewhere. (Dressing mindfully has historically been a way for Black people to avoid being negatively profiled.) That obligation 'felt crushing as an angsty kid,' Mr. Mitchell recalled, but he eventually found a way to express his personal style freely, sometimes even within those parameters — a loophole of sorts that he called the very essence of dandyism. 'I didn't know that word then growing up, but I identified with it from so young because in the South there's a particular emphasis placed on respectability,' he said. 'I think dandyism emerges out of the discourse around respectability and wanting to very intentionally subvert those ideas and wittily reclaim them for one's own self.' According to the Met, the exhibition also aims to highlight the current men's wear renaissance, one in which different designers, stylists and wearers are taking risks and broadening traditional definitions of masculine attire. Mr. Mitchell calls this evolution a 'beautifully anarchic moment,' especially for Black men. That helps 'open up possibilities of expression,' he said, and lets younger men avoid 'some of the challenges I had growing up, which is, What's the archetype that you will fit into as a Black man in Atlanta?' 'That's the shift I've noticed, and that's what I think it means for Black men today,' he added. 'That they can grow up in a world where there aren't those binaries.'

Wrestling With a Harrowing Legacy
Wrestling With a Harrowing Legacy

New York Times

time06-03-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

Wrestling With a Harrowing Legacy

Tyler Mitchell was only 23 in 2018, when his portrait of Beyoncé became the first Vogue cover by a Black photographer. Already established, he was suddenly a celebrity. But as was true for others before him, notably Richard Avedon, precocious success in fashion left him hungry for artistic recognition. To produce 'Ghost Images,' his first solo exhibition at Gagosian in New York (a previous Gagosian show was held in London in 2022), Mitchell traveled last year to two barrier islands in his native state of Georgia, including Jekyll Island, where enslaved people were transported by ship as late as 1858. Amid bucolic settings, he posed Black models in individual portraits and staged groups, aiming to evoke not only the beauty of the place but the disquieting past that lurks beneath it. His most powerful photographs are the least arty. A haunting image of a young man ensnared in a fisherman's net, with one eye prominently visible through the mesh, lives up to its title, 'Ghost Image.' It suggests the horror of entrapment at sea without relying on gimmickry to make the point. Tyler Mitchell, 'Ghost Image,' 2024, archival pigment print. The young man has been ensnared in a fishing net. Credit... Tyler Mitchell; via Gagosian; Photo by Owen Conway And while 'Lamine's Apparition (After Frederick Sommer)' manipulates the image, it does so adroitly. As the title indicates, Mitchell's picture reprises a technique employed by Frederick Sommer of printing two negatives on one sheet to unearthly effect. When Sommer composed a portrait of the artist Max Ernst in 1946, the bare-chested Ernst seemed to be transforming into part of a cement wall. Mitchell superimposed two negatives to create a spectral figure in 'Lamine's Apparition (After Frederick Sommer),' 2024. Credit... Tyler Mitchell; via Gagosian; Photo by Owen Conway Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. Already a subscriber? Log in. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

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