4 days ago
Exploring the Spectacular 'Normal' Route Across Italy's Brenta Dolomites
Rivers and a highway separate the isolated Brenta Dolomites from the rest of the range. The main peak, the Campanil Basso, is so iconic that, according to tradition, no man from the local Italian town of Trentino can be considered a climber until he has scaled it. However, the Brenta is hard to access from the surrounding valleys, and the rugged and complex massif is ill-suited to high-altitude traverses.
Despite this, in the early 1930s, a couple of men had a vision: to connect the narrow forks that run through the central part of the Brenta. They hoped to exploit an incredible system of natural ledges that roughly follows the watershed ridge that divides the eastern side (which slopes down towards the village of Molveno) from the western side (which looks out onto Madonna di Campiglio and Rendena Valleys).
These natural balconies and ledges are a true geological miracle. In 1937, they finally led to the via ferrata Via delle Bocchette. (A via ferrata is a series of ladders, cables, and other fixed aids that make what would otherwise be a serious climb over a cliff face into merely an airy hike.) The route was never designed to touch the peaks, which remained the exclusive domain of mountaineers.
Almost a century later, taking inspiration from Via delle Bocchette, Trentino's mountain guides tried to revive some of the region's pioneering "normal" routes that are now out of fashion.
In 2020, Via delle Normali -- which means "the way of the normal routes" -- was finally defined, also thanks to the effort of Gianni Canale, the president of the local mountain guides association. The result is a mixed climbing and trekking route, 45km long, over the wildest and most isolated part of the Dolomites. It passes through six stages from the south to the north of Brenta, involving its 10 main peaks, all higher than 2,900m but with a difficulty never greater than Grade 3 on the UIAA scale. Unfortunately for Trentino's wannabe climbers, Campanil Basso is not included.
Here's a detailed description of each stage, although we highly recommend contacting local mountain guides before taking on this incredible route. You stay overnight in rifugios -- well-equipped mountain huts.
The first stage of Via delle Normali crosses Cima d'Ambiez (3,102m), with a climb along the southern ridge and a descent on the northern side.
The ideal base for starting your adventure is Rifugio Agostini in Val d'Ambiez. But those setting out to complete the entire six-day crossing could consider starting from Val Brenta and climbing up to Rifugio XII Apostoli for the first evening's overnight stay. This allows you to easily return to your car at the end of the sixth stage.
In this case, in the morning, you will need to calculate two to three hours more to reach Rifugio Agostini via Bocchetta dei Due Denti and via ferrata Castiglioni. From Rifugio Agostini, you then need three to four hours to climb the normal route on the south wall, along a beautiful ridge offering wide views as far as Lake Garda.
From the summit, the cairns indicate the descent, which takes place on the north side with nine rappels to Bocca d'Ambiez. Then, via ferrata Ideale descends to the Ambiez glacier (crampons are recommended) and to the path that leads back to Rifugio Agostini. The descent takes another three to four hours. Equipment required for this first stage is a descender, a 60m single rope, and four quickdraws.
The second stage of Via delle Normali includes the ascent to Cima Tosa (3,136m) along the Migotti route. There is an optional crossing to the summit of Crozzon di Brenta (3,135m), returning along the same ridge, and then descending along the normal route on the southeast side.
From Rifugio Agostini, you need to go up the Ambiez Glacier (crampons are useful) and the via ferrata Ideale to Bocca d'Ambiez. Then take the Migotti route to the summit (four hours from the rifugio). Those who decide to venture along the ridge that leads to Crozzon di Brenta should not be fooled by the shortness of the route as the crow flies; it is longer and more laborious than it seems. Calculate at least four more hours for the outward and return journey.
The descent from Cima Tosa involves three rappels and about two hours to the Rifugio Tosa-Pedrotti. You need a descender, a 60m rope, and five quickdraws.
WARNING: Rifugio Tosa-Pedrotti will undergo renovation work during the summer; check that you can stay by calling the phone number on the website.
The third stage of Via delle Normali is one of the most spectacular and involves climbing Campanile Alto (2,937m) and/or Torre di Brenta (3,014m). The stage starts from Rifugio Tosa-Pedrotti and follows via ferrata Bocchette Centrali to below the northeast face of Campanile Alto in about an hour. Then you climb along Via del Caminone, which you also follow for the descent, involving eight rappels. In total, it is about three to four hours round trip.
To climb Torre di Brenta, continue on via ferrata Bocchette Centrali to the wide snowy channel under Bocchetta degli Sfulmini. Then climb a curving path, first on the south-east side, then on the north side, using a wide ledge. The upper section of the descent follows the ascent route, but once you reach the ledge, you continue to descend on the north side until you reach the ice of Vedretta degli Sfulmini (crampons essential), heading toward Rifugio Alimonta.
If done entirely with double rope, the descent involves 21 rappels, so plan about seven hours for the ascent and descent of Torre di Brenta. You need a descender, a 60m single rope, and five quickdraws.
The fourth stage of Via delle Normali climbs the queen of the massif, the severe, imposing Cima Brenta. It is the highest peak of the Brenta Dolomites, though Cima Tosa (climbed during Stage 2) is currently marked on IGM maps as the highest (3,161m). But a team using electronic instruments determined its new height in 2015. The change could be due to the partial melting of the ice cap that covers it. Thus, 3,151m Cima Brenta became the highest peak.
The stage starts from Rifugio Alimonta, heads to Rifugio Brentei, and climbs the southern side of Cima Brenta along the route of the 1882 first ascent. It should take around four hours.
To descend from the summit, follow the ridge toward the north, lowering yourself with a couple of rappels to the notch that overlooks the northern slide. Then climb a tower on the opposite side and continue the descent with another four rappels until you reach the Garbari ledge in about an hour and a half.
Next, take the via ferrata Bocchette Alte, which leads to Rifugio Tuckett in two more hours. You need a descender, a 60m single rope, and four quickdraws.
On the fifth day, there are fewer technical difficulties, but the environment remains superb. You can spot peaks Cima Falkner (2,999m) and Cima Grostè (2,901m), which are accessible via deviations from the route.
You start from Rifugio Tuckett and go up toward Bocca di Tuckett. Or, you can cut along the via ferrata Dallagiacoma variant. Once you have taken the via ferrata Benini, after a short while, you find the deviation for the ascent to Cima Falkner. The ascent and descent follow the same track, which takes about an hour. After descending and while continuing to Bocca dei Camosci, you then find the deviation to climb Cima Grostè from the southeast side. It is an easy 50m climb from the shoulder to the summit.
The descent is on the northeast side, with a couple of optional rappels. The entire stage, linking both peaks, takes around nine to ten hours, from Rifugio Tuckett to Rifugio Graffer. As with the previous stages, you need a descender, a 60m single rope, and, in this case, three quickdraws.
The sixth and final stage of Via delle Normali closes the crossing beautifully, with a long and airy ridge that allows you to touch Cima Pietra Grande (2,936m) and Cima Vagliana (2,864m).
From Rifugio Graffer, you need to go to Passo Grostè and take via ferrata Vidi for a while. Then continue along the southern ridge, called Cresta dell'Oreste. Compared to the previous stages, this is lower quality rock and requires extra attention to avoid falling rocks. But the route is logical, with a view that extends over a good part of the northern Brenta.
There are five rappels along the ridge. From Cima Vagliana, go down to the northwest and descend the scree until you intercept via ferrata Costanzi. This section passes through Orti della Regina -- a spectacular hike on scree and easy rocks at the foot of Cima Pietra Grande -- and leads back to Rifugio Graffer. The stage requires eight to nine hours. You need a descender, a 60m single rope, and five quickdraws.
