23-05-2025
Ask a doctor: Do we need SPF for our lips?
Just when you think you know everything about skincare, think again. The case for regular sunscreen application has long been established—but a recent tendency to SPF inclusion in lip products has us thinking: what do we actually know about sunscreen for the lips?
It's easy to overlook, especially when most of our sunscreen talk is concerned with keeping the skin protected against the sun—with little to no discussion about how our lips fare against UV rays. A dangerous mindset to adopt, and one we all need to rethink. In the words of our trusted expert Dr Rachel Ho of La Clinic, our lips are 'significantly more susceptible to UV damage compared to the skin of the rest of the face'. If that's the case, then clearly our pouts are being sorely under SPF-ed.
According to Dr Ho, the potential damage could range from an increased appearance of fine lines to unseemly redness or chapped lips—symptoms which many of us are already prone to. So we put our investigative hats on and got to asking the expert for the full lowdown. Here's what to know about protecting our lips against sun damage, and Dr Ho's personal top shelf recommendations for SPF products dedicated to lip care. Are our lips more susceptible to UV damage? Why?
Yes, our lips are significantly more susceptible to UV damage compared to the skin of the rest of the face. This is because the lips's stratum corneum is thinner. The stratum corneum is a part of the skin barrier that protects against external insults including UV rays. Our lips also have fewer cells that produce melanin, a pigment which has protective effects against UV rays. How can sun damage manifest in our lips? Sunburns: swelling, redness, blisters, peeling etc.
Dryness: chapping, irritation etc.
Premature signs of ageing: dark spots, increased wrinkling, lip thinning etc.
Increased risk of skin cancer
Actinic chelitis: precancerous condition characterised by dryness, fissures, pain, loss of lip margins So in that regard, would there be certain ingredients to look for for in our lip products?
UV filters with broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays e.g. zinc oxide, Uvinul T 150, Avobenzone. Usually, lip balms contain a combination of UV filters to achieve broad spectrum ingredients.
Hydrating ingredients are also essential, as they help with retaining moisture in the lips. They also allow an even film of UV filters to form on the lips. Examples include humectants that lock in moisture (e.g. hyaluronic acid), emollients like shea butter that soften the lips, and occlusives such as petrolatum to reduce water loss from the surface.
Antioxidants like vitamin E are useful to help reduce oxidative damage from UV rays and environmental pollutants. There's a case against mixing SPF for skin into make-up products. Would the same argument apply for lip products?
Yes, similarly, I would not recommend mixing lip SPF with make-up or other lip products. Mixing them would disrupt the lip sunscreen's ability to form an even film on the lips to provide sun protection, leading to inconsistent protection. Theoretically, mixing might also dilute and reduce the lip sunscreen's protective SPF and PA effects. Furthermore, interactions between the different formulas could destabilise UV filters in the lip sunscreen. I would strongly recommend layering the lip sunscreen on top of the lip product once the latter has dried; or to use lip SPF with tints. Dr Ho's personal recommendations: Courtesy of Escentials
1 / 3 Three Lip Conscious Protector SPF35, $40
' It leaves a lightweight, barely-there feel. It's great as a standalone product or for layering with lip tints or your trusty lipstick.'
Available at Escentials. Courtesy of Shiseido
2 / 3 Shiseido Sun Care UV Lip Colour Splash, $40
'It's a coloured lip gel that I always stock up on when I'm in Japan.'
Available at Shopee. Courtesy of Rilastil
3 / 3 Rilastil Sun System Transparent Stick SPF50+, $13
'This is in my current rotation. I just got it from Milan last month, and it's so moisturising on its own. There's no colour to it, so it's great for layering with other lip products.'
Available at Care To Beauty.
