4 days ago
In search of the Douro's rich heritage
'Am I the only one who thinks this ship is never going to fit into that little hole?' I exclaimed to my fellow guests on the Aquavit Terrace.
The Viking Hemming was approaching the vast wall of the Carrapatelo Dam on the Douro River and we had a clear view of what lay ahead – including a modest slot in the left corner. This, it turned out, was the deepest lock in western Europe at 35m. Captain Tiago skilfully steered our ship into the eerie chamber with just inches to spare.
The 150-ton door closed behind us and we rose slowly, emerging to a different sun-drenched view of this spectacular waterway. A couple of days later, in the Viking Hemming's stylish lounge, Captain Tiago showed us a short film from the 1950s that documented how barrels of port wine were transported down the river from the vineyards for which the Douro is famed.
Using a mix of sails, oars and a long rudder, sailors coaxed their wooden rabelo boats through dangerous rapids and rocks in the days before dams tamed the river. In Porto, at the start of our voyage, we had already admired examples of these unique vessels.
Viniculture has been entwined with this part of Portugal for a good 4,000 years. Viking's 10-day itinerary Portugal's River of Gold includes the opportunity to discover everything about port wine, embellished with tastings. We also learned about vinho verde and moscatel.
The latter conjured up an example of just how much colour and charm Viking packs into this itinerary. A trio of luxury coaches shadows the ship to take guests on the various shore excursions. Each has its own tour guide – in my case, Jose.
Driving up to the village of Favaios, Jose pointed out a moscatel vineyard. 'Looks very neat, doesn't it?' he said to the passengers. We murmured in agreement. 'I should hope so, because I planted it!' enthused Jose, who turned out to be the son of a local farmer.
Our journey had begun in vibrant Lisbon with a two-night stay in a centrally located hotel. A morning tour took in the Belém riverside area with its distinctive Monument to the Discoveries that celebrates Portugal's long history of ocean exploration. With free time afterwards, there was only one destination for me – the castle, with its incredible vista across the city.
The Viking Hemming lay in wait almost 320km to the north but the coach journey was much more than a transfer. We walked the streets of noble Coimbra before ascending to the city's hilltop university, one of the oldest in Europe. Its library is a standout and I was fascinated by the fact that bats are encouraged to roost there because they eat the insects that would otherwise feast on the ancient books.
Porto is a joy, especially when its rows of colourful buildings tumbling down to the river are viewed from the deck of the Viking Hemming, moored directly opposite. Dusk fell as we settled into our comfy staterooms and I stepped on to the Sun Deck to admire the panorama of palaces, cathedral, monastery and mighty iron bridge.
Setting sail the next morning, it did not take long for me to realise just how wild the Douro is. The narrow river twists through wooded hills, at times seeming to come to a dead end before a sharp turn reveals another splendid view, which I witnessed while I had my feet cooling in the ship's pool.
Further inland the trees yield to a drier yet dramatic terrain of steep slopes, nearly all of them striped with the vine terraces of venerable port houses. After a comprehensive tour of the Sandeman estate and its impressive wine presses, we enjoyed a tasting of both red and white ports on a terrace high above the Douro.
Back on board the ship, I was pleased to see local cuisine on the dinner menu every day, such as cataplana fish stew, roast duck, sardines and custard pies, all perfectly cooked by Maik, the amiable head chef. I also loved the live performances of fado, flamenco and the folk groups who came on board in various locations.
The included excursions on Viking's journey are delightfully varied. At the wonderful baroque Mateus Palace, whose façade adorns the distinctive wine bottles, we learned that the well-known rosé has never actually been made at this estate. Close to the Spanish border, a ride up to the intriguing medieval village of Castelo Rodrigo proved hugely popular with guests. The little town of Lamego had us all frantically clicking cameras at the exquisite staircase with classic azulejo tiles that leads up to a 14th-century sanctuary. I didn't walk up the 686 steps – but I did walk down!
For many, though, the highlight is Salamanca. A full day trip across the border to Spain's 'Golden City' brought many rewards – not just the side-by-side 'new' and 'old' cathedrals and the handsome main square, but more of those absorbing stories that speckle every Viking excursion. If you want to find out about the astronaut and the ice-cream…well, you'll just have to visit yourself.
Getting a flavour of local life
Sandra sweeps her hand across the tempting buffet laid out under the olive tree and said: 'I can't remember the last time we bought vegetables round here.' A farmer in the town of Marialva, Sandra was an engaging host over lunch in the courtyard of an old house during the Marialva Castle & Lunch excursion.
We tuck into charcuterie, vegetables, salad and wine, with all the ingredients coming from the village. She then shows us the ruins of the 12th-century castle, to which we had private access. That is an optional excursion, but for an included one, it would be difficult to beat the Favaios Bakery & Lunch at Quinta Avessada tour.
We take a scenic drive up a side valley to this authentic village to visit a co-op that produces moscatel wine, sample bread from a traditional bakery and tour the museum of wine and bread. Then it is off to visit Quinta da Avessada, a wine estate with sweeping views, to enjoy a superb four-course lunch.
