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Irish Examiner
2 days ago
- Business
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: Looking east to China for the future of wine
The world of wine is in a state of flux these days. Just this week it was announced that French supermarket wine sales were down by 5% and other European countries have reported similar drops. Maybe wine producers need to look beyond Europe to improve sales. I'm just back from a week tasting wines in the city of Yinchuan, capital of Ningxia Province in Western Central China (just south of Mongolia). This is the best-known Chinese wine region with grapes grown on sandy soils on the edge of the Gobi Desert. I was invited by the Concours Mondial Bruxelles, one of the world's most recognised wine competitions, now in its 32nd year. The Concours holds a few different competitions but the red and white competition is by far the largest; there were 7,165 wines from 49 countries tasted by 375 tasters from 56 countries. Wine is not universally drunk in China, of course (baijiu spirit is the alcohol of choice), but it is slowly gaining traction and wineries are popular wedding venues. Of all the different flights of wines my table tasted, the highest marks we gave were for Marselan wines from Ningxia. The wines were tasted blind and I would never have guessed they were Chinese. The quality was impressively consistent and the wines were supremely tasty with potential for ageing. Marselan is a Grenache-Cabernet crossing and works brilliantly in the high-altitude vineyards of Ningxia. Cabernet, Merlot, Riesling and Chardonnay are also worth trying, but it was fascinating to taste such good Marselan, a grape that has never excited me before. We visited several wineries with my favourite, perhaps, being the Silver Heights estate, a fine Marselan and some interesting natural and even qvevri wines. Recommendations today include an excellent red from Ningxia and two other wines with a vaguely 'eastern' influence that will suit our current weather. Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses, Languedoc, France, €12 Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses, Languedoc, France, €12 Dunnes Stores Bertrand is a superstar winemaker and this is a great price for a very elegant rosé. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah from vineyards near Narbonne with influence from the Mediterranean Sea. In a gorgeous bottle, this pours a pleasing pale pink with light berry fruit aromas mixed with peach and apricot. Supple and fruity but with a dry finish with a bonus touch of ozone. Paparuda Pinot Noir, Cramele Recas, Romania, €13.95 Paparuda Pinot Noir, Cramele Recas, Romania, €13.95 JJ O'Driscolls; Mollys; Vintry; One of the very few Pinot Noirs under €15 that I'm happy to recommend, Recas often win medals at the CMB competition. Red fruit aromas plus blackberry and plum with a tinge of forest floor; ripe and juicy with some pleasing streaks of acidity, structure, and a touch of spice. Also watch for Reca, a similarly inexpensive and tasty Incanta Pinot Noir (1601, Menloe Stores). Kanaan Winery 'Pretty Pony', Ningxia, China 2019, €54.95 Kanaan Winery 'Pretty Pony', Ningxia, China 2019, €54.95 JJ O'Driscolls; Cinnamon Cottage; Drink Store; From the eastern foothills (1000m) of the Helan Mountains in Ningxia, just south of Mongolia. This is quite fascinating, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, reminiscent of fine Bordeaux but also quite different with a pleasing sweet-savoury complexity. Darkly fruited, juicy and supple, cooked plums and a touch of strawberry coulis, fine-tuned with elegance and length. Kanaan Riesling 2022 (€35) is also worth trying. Beer of the week Hofbräuhaus Natur Radler, 2.3% ABV, 500ml, €2.75 Hofbräuhaus Natur Radler, 2.3% ABV, 500ml, €2.75 Bradleys; Matsons; World Wide Wines; McHughs; Molloys; Independents The sun is out (mostly), there are plenty of warm days left, so time to stock up on Radler, the classic Bavarian summer drink. Ripe lemon and lemon zest aromas with a strong hit of lime, classic München helles lager coming through on the mid-palate and with a bitter lemon twist on the finish.
Irish Examiner
13-06-2025
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: Deep reds to savour from my Italian excursion
Last week, I extolled the joys of Abruzzo following a holiday there; and this week I'm talking about Puglia, where we took a short trip to explore the pretty city of Bari. Unlike Abruzzo, we did see other tourists in Bari's old town, and it seems it is one of Italy's new cool destinations. We ate well in Bari, with seafood to the fore of course, but also orecchiette pasta ragu; made with rich brascioli, thinly sliced beef rolled in a ball and held together with toothpicks, before being braised slowly in a rich tomato sauce. I've frequently praised the wines of Puglia on this page, so it was wonderful to drink them in situ. Naturally, we drank Primitivo di Manduria, the region's most famous DOC, with the brascioli mentioned above. I failed to find the sweet dolce naturale version, which was elevated to DOCG in 2010. Hopefully next time. Primitivo originates in Croatia (as Tribidrag) but is probably best known as Zinfandel from California. The Pugliese version tends to be darker and richer due to climate variation (and different clones), while the Californian version is usually higher in alcohol, and has more sweet dried raspberry fruits. Puglia has 28 DOC and 4 DOCG wines, but most of what you find on shelves in Ireland are IGT regional wines, often sold as varietals. Be a little wary of appassimento dried grape versions, as some can have 8 or 10g of sugar: they will be tasty, but you may find them a little sweet. Below I recommend a Nero di Troia from Northern Puglia, a Primitivo and Falanghina. I would have recommended susumaniello rosé if I could find one but none seem to be available. Also watch for Salice Salentino, made from Negroamaro and Malvasia nera; it has a dried-grape complexity that is also rather fascinating. Maree D'Ione Nero di Troia Organic, Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95 Maree D'Ione Nero di Troia Organic, Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95 1601; Matsons; Vintry; Worldwide Wines; independent off-licences Nero di Troia is only really found in northern Puglia, and this is one of the best I've tasted. The grape can sometimes be tannic and darkly fruity, but this version has a lovely floral lightness of touch. Ripe plum and cherry fruit flavours, with some spice and dark plums on the centre palate and rounded dark fruits. Vigneti del Salento Primitivo 'I Muri', Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95 Vigneti del Salento Primitivo 'I Muri', Puglia, Italy, €14.95-15.95 JJ O'Driscoll; World Wide Wines; Baggot St Wines; Vintry; Martins; Lilac; McHughs; Owned by the Fantini group, the grapes are from the communes of Sava and Manduria (the latter being the most famous region for Primitivo). Ripe blackberry and plum aromas, juicy darker fruits on the palate, including dark cherry and baked plums, savoury and ripe. Also watch for its sister wine, Luccarelli Primitivo. Feudi San Gregorio, 'Falanghina del Sannio', Campania, Italy, €20 Feudi San Gregorio, 'Falanghina del Sannio', Campania, Italy, €20 Matsons; Martins; Blackrock Cellar; independents Falanghina is found in Puglia, Molise (the small region between Abruzzo and Puglia) and most famously in Campania (sadly I couldn't find a Pugliese version to recommend). This is weighty and fragrant, with apricot-kernel and lemon and lime blossom aromas. On the palate there is pleasing texture and mouth-filling richness, cut by minerality, spice hints and a dried-lemon character. MEAD OF THE WEEK Kinsale Wildflower Irish Mead, 12% ABV, 70cl €45 Kinsale Wildflower Irish Mead, 12% ABV, 70cl €45 Celtic Whiskey Shop; This fascinating new mead is aged in Irish oak barrels from Midleton Distillery - it's a 'Miskey' if you will. There are two other versions, a 'black forest' and a 'wild forest'; all three are gorgeous. Made from West Cork honey, this has floral butterscotch and vanilla aromas, a layered palate with lychee and honey notes, a background of Midleton whiskey, and a sweet nutty complexity. Wonderful.
