2 days ago
This new Ahmedabad restaurant puts a fresh spin on clean eating
Ahmedabad's F&B scene is flourishing, and is driven by a young, affluent population, a growing appetite for new culinary experiences, and the presence of varied restaurants, cafes, and pop-up experiences.
In the midst of this bustling setup stands Union, a contemporary vegetarian restaurant that aims to shake things up by spotlighting clean eating. Founded by Harshvardhan Sheth and Ishit Patel, the kitchen is helmed by the renowned chef-restaurateur couple Viraf Patel and Prakriti Lama Patel.
'The dining scene in Ahmedabad is evolving rapidly. The amount of exposure and travelling means people are not stuck to traditional cuisine," Prakriti says. 'Our market research revealed a massive shift; people here are now much more open to new tastes and varied flavours."
Ahmedabad is still finding its footing in the realm of clean and conscious eating, but there's a growing curiosity for food that is lighter, more ingredient-driven, and transparent in its sourcing.
The two founders chose to partner with Viraf and Prakriti on account of past experiences and 'memorable meals at restaurants like Olive, Smoke House Deli and The Salt House". Born and raised in Kolkata, Sheth has an MBA in finance and is working towards completing his chartered accountancy course. Patel, who has studied engineering and worked in advertising, has always felt most at home in a kitchen. 'The demand for pure vegetarian cuisine remains consistently high in the city, supported by a strong local customer base and a growing number of tourists," Sheth says.
The menu draws inspiration from European classics with hints of simple Mediterranean and Asian flavours — all reimagined through a local lens. 'I trained and apprenticed in Switzerland, and my cuisine is steeped in traditional European-style techniques. So the dishes differ from traditional Indian offerings, which are typically more focused on the process that creates the sauce (dal or gravy)," says Viraf.
In European cooking, the protein is always the star and is complemented by the starch and the veggies, he informs. Prakriti adds they decided to use the European concept and focus on the vegetables as the star. 'We use various processes and textures to let them shine. For example, in the carrots with tamarind yogurt, oven-roasting brings out the sweetness of the carrots, the charring adds another taste profile, and the sour yogurt balances the sweetness," says Viraf. The idea was to allow people to taste the vegetables in a different manner, as they are meant to be, 'not masked in spices and curry".
Viraf and Prakriti have worked across India and internationally. They opened Across, a Mumbai restaurant that focuses on the flavours of the Himalayas last year, and Oito, which celebrates the harvest of the sea and the land, in Goa recently.
'We've been consciously incorporating seasonal produce, everything from vibrant heirloom tomatoes and peak-season pumpkin to fresh, local fruits. We are now working with local sitara chillies to make a Middle Eastern-style chilli paste with oil and garlic that we will use on our chilli cheese toast," he says.
The menu is also designed considering how people eat today, a preference for smaller plates that allows for variety and sharing: truffle and mushroom arancini, spice-dusted corn ribs, jalapeno, cheddar and lemongrass cutlets, crispy spring rolls, and water chestnut wontons are a few.
There's a lot to choose from. A corn and kaffir lime soup that blends classic French techniques with bold Asian flavours, a roasted beetroot carpaccio featuring a creamy goat milk feta alongside vibrant orange segments, sweet potato noodle salad, and jalapeño cheddar and lemongrass cutlets with Thai spices. A congee risotto marries the traditional risotto and comforting congee, infused with spicy, crunchy, and fresh elements. For dessert, a crispy stroopwafel comes with a custard cream base, and is topped with seasonal fruit, which is currently mango. Special attention is also given to heirloom rice varieties of the region, reinforcing their philosophy of celebrating local bounty.
The chef offers his take on what would be the ideal meal at Union — 'I'd start with the chickpea hummus served with our stone-baked homemade pita —simple, fresh, and full of flavour. I'd move on to the crispy stroopwafel paired with arugula and smoked scamorza. For mains, the Union Lasagne with lentil bolognese is a hearty, comforting choice. And to finish, an indulgent chocolate and tofu mousse."
The restaurant is currently working on collaborations with local artists and designers to celebrate the ethos of the space. They will also host chef's tables bringing in guest chefs.
Prakriti says Ahmedabad's vegetarian culture offered an opportunity to reimagine what vegetarian dining could be — bold, creative, and inspiring.'Our aim was to create food that feels both comforting and surprising — familiar ingredients presented in unexpected ways."
Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.
