29-04-2025
Huka Lodge,New Zealand's Best, Reopens In Stunning, Expanded Form
The setting of New Zealand's Huka Lodge on the rushing Waikato River.
You hear the river before you see it: the rushing sound of the Waikato River heading downstream to Huka Falls. Huka Lodge, New Zealand's first luxury lodge which opened 101 years ago as a fishing camp near Taupō on the North Island, was built in a prime spot along this river with its original tents and later cottages facing the briskly flowing waves. But even a place regarded as the grande dame of the country's lodges, now owned by Australia-based Baillie Lodges, can get better and it has. Last month, the lodge reopened after a 10 month, US $13.5 million investment enlarged, redesigned and with offers of new experiences to take advantage of the singular surroundings.
The Main Lounge and River Room
You enter the 17 acre property in an appropriately grand way, through electric gates up a curving driveway past lush foliage extending down to the banks of the river. But once you enter the main house, past the portraits of visiting royals (including Queen Elizabeth II who visited four times) the tone isn't regal or pompous; it's rustic, relaxed, cozy in a handsomely designed way. Virginia Fisher, the premier designer of the top lodges in the country, designed it when it became a luxury lodge in 1984 and returned to create this sharp new look but one that still resonates with the original tone.
The Library, Queen Elizabeth II's favorite dining space during her four visits.
During the renovation, some changes to the original lodge were made: new terraces were created, floor to ceiling windows were added to enhance the views of the river, a new room, the River Room, was added on the other side of the main lounge, also with floor to ceiling river views. Fisher artfully filled the spaces with forest green, gold and slate blue couches, tartan pillows and wool throws, brass light fixtures suspended from the ceiling, lush wall colors and a wealth of interesting, witty details including framed oil paintings including a very patrician one of a dog. Roaring wood fires complete the scene.
One of the 20 Lodge Suites.
The 20 Lodge Suites, private two-bedroom Alan Pye Cottage (named for the owner who opened the fishing camp in 1924) and four-bedroom Alex Van Heeren Cottage (named for the previous longtime owner who upgraded the property to a luxury lodge) also were redesigned as part of the renovation. The 646 square foot Lodge Suites now feature four poster beds, a cream and white color scheme with accent wool throws and pillows, spacious bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and heated wood floors along with glass doors leading to a terrace on the river.
The living room of the Alan Pye Cottage.
The 3,498 square foot Alan Pye Cottage is set above rolling lawns with views of the river and decorated with antique pieces, Māori artwork and vivid colors such as teal and gold. The expansive living room also has a vaulted ceiling and fireplace; outdoors, it has a private garden, heated swimming pool and spa pool. The 3,918 square foot Alex Van Herren Cottage is set just above the river looking downstream to Huka Falls. This cottage also has a vaulted ceiling and fireplace in the living room, a more subtle white and gold color scheme with antique pieces, a plunge pool and spa overlooking the river and a courtyard with a fireplace.
The Dining Room with glass walls facing the river.
Dinners can be taken in a variety of places: the expanded main dining room with its windows overlooking the river; the wine cellar surrounded by 4500 bottles of elite wine; the terrace off the dining room with a fireplace; the upstairs Loft surrounded by country antiques; the Library, Queen Elizabeth's preferred dining space or outdoors surrounded by leafy walls or fruit trees in the orchard. Local ingredients are showcased by chef Ryan Ward in delectable, complex but not fussy dishes such as Mount Cook Alpine Salmon with potato, yuzu and parsley and Southern Stations Wagyu with cabbage, tarragon and pinenut. One four course menu is featured at dinner each night; breakfast and lunch are a la carte.
A typical course at dinner featuring Australian Wagyu beef.
Activities in this area abound. Fly fishing for trout in the river is possible from the property or on Lake Taupō with the charter cruise company Chris Jolly Outdoors. (Apart from a prime boat and captain, lunch is a gourmet affair with rib steaks grilled on the boat accompanied by very tasty salads.) There are also hikes through forests and past streams surrounding the property among them paths through Tongariro National Park to Taranaki Falls and the Ōpepe loop to Huka Falls and the geyser field, Orakei Korako. Guests can opt for gentle boating: kayaking Lake Taupō to view Māori rock carvings or adrenaline rush: jet boating down the river to the base of Huka Falls. Since New Zealand is the birthplace of bungy jumping, guests who want to try that have an opportunity to bounce down 150-feet from a platform over the Waikato River, upstream from Huka Falls.
A jet boat at the base and a helicopter above Huka Falls. (Photo by)
Calmer adventures in the air are new helicopter excursions over the region's geothermal terraces and mountain peaks plus a culinary adventure to Craggy Range Winery in the North Island's gastronomic center, Hawke's Bay. But one adventure is possible without even leaving the lodge. As part of the new spa complex, there's a hot tub at the end of a walkway. But to get to it, there isn't a cold plunge, as there is in many current spas. There are buckets of ice water. It's up to the guest whether to pull the cord, flip the buckets over and stand in an icy splash.
