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South China Morning Post

How the pearl is making a dramatic new statement – think less twinset, more modern-day diva thanks to Givenchy, Chanel, Mikimoto, Tiffany & Co and Huishan Zhang

When Sarah Burton showcased her debut collection for Givenchy in March, it felt like a strong, contemporary interpretation of the maison's classic style – less Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's and more modern-day diva. Burton had been inspired by archival patterns of Hubert de Givenchy's original 1952 debut that were found during renovations of his first atelier. She took those structured silhouettes and gave them a dramatic, up-to-the-minute turn in pieces like a jewelled top with broken-chandelier elements and glass pearls, and lots of outlandishly large pearl earrings. Sarah Burton's debut collection at Givenchy at the autumn/winter 2025 shows featured this show-stopping jewel top. Photo: Givenchy Burton was not alone in her inspiration. Chanel is synonymous with pearls, but the brand's autumn/winter 2025 catwalk saw the volume increase dramatically, creating a cross-body loop graduating in diameter from 2mm on the shoulder to at least 5mm draped on the hip. There were also colourful long-line knits layered with extra long sautoirs of enormous pearls. Advertisement Meanwhile, golf ball-sized pearls dangled from the lobes of models at Huishan Zhang. They were dressed in chic pinstripe pantsuits and 60s style brocade evening gowns for a collection inspired by the rebellious style of Edie Sedgwick, the American heiress and Andy Warhol muse who died aged 28, as well as the glamour of the Valley of the Dolls, Jacqueline Susann's novel set in 1960s California. 'I used oversized, eye-catching pearls to flip the idea of traditional femininity,' explains Zhang. ' Pearls are usually seen as classic and proper, but here they're bold and theatrical – a statement about rewriting the rules and celebrating women who define themselves on their own terms.' A model walks the runway at the Huishan Zhang autumn/winter 2025 show wearing oversized pearl earrings. Photo: Huishan Zhang These ballooning pearls are, of course, far larger than what nature can provide. But their popularity on the catwalk and among stylists has put large pearls, natural and otherwise, in the spotlight. The largest natural pearls are the saltwater South Sea and Tahitian species, whose allure is drawing a new, younger fan base. 'There's definitely been a strong resurgence of interest in bold, large-scale pearl pieces but also pearl jewellery in general,' says Ruby Autore, who is head of marketing at the family-run Autore Group, one of the world's largest South Sea pearl companies. She points out how short strands have become especially popular, offering a contemporary edge to a classic look; Autore's drop earrings featuring sizeable South Sea pearls are a consistent bestseller and in high demand. 'Clients and stylists alike are gravitating towards these impactful designs that showcase the beauty of the pearl,' she says. Tasaki Atelier's Aurora 2020 ring featuring South Sea pearls and white diamonds. Photo: Tasaki