2 days ago
Char kway teow is out, mala is in: And that's still hawker culture, Lifestyle News
It was one of those same-old afternoons when my friend H and I were deciding what to eat. The closest option was a hawker centre where we'd spent many childhood hours sipping lemon barley while our fathers shot the breeze over glass mugs of kopi. In our teenage years, we came here after school to slurp Teochew mee pok and kacang pool.
Those stalls — and many others — have since changed hands. Today, a mala xiang guo stall stands beside the second-generation tau huay chwee sellers. One row down, where the smoky aroma of chai tow kway once filled the air, a pair of ex-restaurant chefs serve wagyu rice bowls garnished with truffle paste and ikura.
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As we scanned the options, H remarked, "Hawker culture is really changing, right?" The hawkers who once served us roti john, putu mayam and char kway teow have long retired. In their places are new stallholders, armed with youth, optimism, and a different menu.
These days, you're more likely to find a solid smash burger, delicate French pastries, or a trendy tornado omelette than an outstanding bowl of bak chor mee at the hawker centre. And not everyone is pleased with this evolution.
It's human nature, after all, to cling to the familiar and mourn the things that once anchored us. It's also hard not to feel bereft when the min jiang kueh you'd eaten every Saturday since childhood quietly disappears. It took me months to get over that.
To some, this shift in hawker centre offerings might feel like the unravelling of our culinary identity. But here's the thing: Hawker culture is alive and evolving — just not in the way we expect or want it to.
[embed] Tradition versus change
Hawker centres were created to provide inexpensive, fuss-free meals for the masses. That mission hasn't changed. What has, and always will, is the food itself. Once upon a time, many hawkers cooked over charcoal, giving their food a distinctive smokiness.
Few do that now. It's too time-consuming, harder to control, and unbearably hot in our ever-warming climate. It's difficult enough waiting more than 30 minutes for a plate of food in an un-airconditioned space during lunchtime, let alone cooking in that oppressive heat for hours on end.
Flavours have changed, too. The animals we eat today are raised on different feeds. Some ingredients, like the lye water once used to soften thick bee hoon, are now banned. Which is why your father's favourite fish noodle soup tastes different today.
Yes, dishes like satay bee hoon and kway chap are harder to find. But while we bemoan their disappearance, who among us is willing to put in the work of preserving them? Perfecting a dish takes time and effort.
Serving up plate after plate of char kway teow requires long hours, physical stamina, and a deftness with the wok that can only be honed with years of practice. Yet the dining public still expects to pay no more than $5 a plate for it. It's not good business and we all know it.
And so the hawker centres attract a different kind of hawker today. Passionate cooks sell dishes like mala xiang guo, Japanese curry, or fusion rice bowls because it makes more business sense. They are relatively scalable, can be batch-prepped, and appeal to younger diners.
And let's not forget the economic pressures of being a hawker. Stall rentals and ingredient costs have risen — blame that on global inflation, supply chain challenges, and climate change, among numerous other factors — while expectations around pricing remain stuck in the early 2000s. Labour is scarce, especially when long hours in a hot stall with few days off is a hard sell for a generation raised on work-life balance and quiet quitting.
Even first-generation hawkers, who like all parents, want a better life for their children, would rather their kids choose white collar vocations. Which leaves the job of hawker-ing to individuals who do what they can to earn a decent living while catering to the need for good, affordable food.
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Our hawker centres won't disappear, but they will change. Thirty years from now, 40-somethings will probably have the same lament about hawker culture not being what it used to be. They'll be wistful for their favourite mala xiang guo and wagyu rice bowls that used to define the hawker centres of their youth. They might complain about how bak chor mee now costs a whopping $15 a bowl and that no one makes it the proper way anymore. That's nostalgia in motion. And so the world turns.
It bears remembering that hawker centres are living ecosystems shaped by supply, demand and migration patterns. Indian-Muslim hawkers popularised mamak favourites like mee goreng; Hainanese immigrants gave us chicken rice.
The wave of today's crowd-pleasers — Korean ramyeon, truffle oil everything, or Taiwanese lu rou fan — is just another chapter in a very colourful book of the foods that make Singapore a culinary paradise. Do these dishes belong in a hawker centre? Who's to say they don't?
Preserving hawker culture doesn't mean freezing it in time. It should be about making room for evolution while keeping the spirit intact. It's about supporting good food at fair prices, regardless of whether it's served with sambal or sous vide eggs.
The flavours of a hawker centre will change, but that ritual of chope-ing a table with a packet of tissues, queueing in the heat for your favourite dishes, and ordering way too much food, remains unmistakably Singaporean. That's what's worth protecting.
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This article was first published in .
