26-05-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Giddy Up, Cowboy Caviar
Jump scare! It's me, Kim Severson. I'm filling in for Melissa Clark, she of the 'glossy red hair and angular jaw,' as she was described last week in a spicy San Francisco Chronicle article about the chef Thomas Keller.
It's Memorial Day. Here's why I love America: It's packed coast to coast with hyperlocal food and singular culinary traditions. I'm constantly delighted by how different a dish can be from one state to another. Take collard greens, for example. The fried collards served between two discs of hot-water cornbread in a corner of North Carolina could not be more different than the greens stewed with two kinds of pork and red pepper flakes in the Mississippi Delta.
Texas has a particularly long list of culinary quirks, and cowboy caviar is one I really like. It's the trifecta of party dishes: delicious, easy and a crowd favorite.
The original — black-eyed peas in vinaigrette — was knocked out by a New Yorker who moved to Texas and first served it at a Houston country club. Margaux Laskey, a Midwesterner by way of the South, adds black beans and corn, with some cilantro and jalapeño for character. It's a great dish for an impromptu Memorial Day cookout.
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