14-05-2025
I've stayed in over 100 places in Ireland. These are my favourites
I didn't mean to move to Ireland. Originally the plan was to come over for a couple of months, live on a little island off the west coast, then move on. But those couple of months turned into a couple of years and, before I knew it, I'd spent almost two decades living in various parts of Ireland, from a village in the wild northwest to the middle of Dublin, where I'm now based.
While it wasn't exactly a thought-out decision (few of mine are), there's something about Irish life that suits me. And no, I don't mean the tired old tropes about rowdy pubs and excessive drinking — you'll never catch me in Dublin's boozy Temple Bar quarter. It's the wide, open landscapes that I love, especially in the summer: the coastal hikes that end in a platter of oysters, the saunas next to freezing cold lakes and the countryside cottages where you can drink wine out on the patio with the coconutty smell of gorse flowers in the air.
And there are plenty of places all around Ireland where I can do just that. The Irish Landmark Trust owns and preserves 33 properties on the island, from thatched cottages to fairytale towers, and they're usually my first port of call when I fancy a cosy, homely stay. Then there are the quirkier, cooler properties, like the lakeside cabins in Cavan that feel like an American summer camp, or a geodesic dome built halfway up a tree in the wilds of Connemara. And you can still get those same comfy vibes in a hotel by lounging on the fireside sofas in Ballynahinch Castle, or even opting for a stylish townhouse in Dublin.
I have my favourite corners of the country too. Most people stick to the same area when they come to Ireland but while Kerry, Cork and Galway are beautiful, I'll always have a soft spot for the northwest — the wind-battered cliffs of Co Donegal, or the dark, mossy woodlands of Leitrim, where the trees are dripping with lichen (a sign of clean air). The scenery is every bit as stunning but you're not vying for space at lookout points or getting stuck behind coach tours at every turn.
For the sake of this list I've included stays all over the island of Ireland. Here are some of my favourite spots to inspire your next trip.
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Whenever I'm dreaming of a cosy escape, Cabu is at the top of my list. On a huge woodland estate on the banks of Lough Oughter, in the heart of the midlands, this spot has 28 one to three-bedroom cabins. They're spread throughout the forest, with some on stilts overlooking the treetops and others along the edge of the lake. Though they look a little ramshackle from the outside, inside it's all log-cabin chic, with Aztec rugs, deep squishy couches and wood-burning stoves. Up in the main lodge you can toast marshmallows and drink crémant by the fire pits or soak in the outdoor hot tubs. The lake is perfect for paddleboarding or summer swims Two nights' self-catering for two from £453 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin
This subtly luxe two-bedroom cottage on the grounds of the historic Lissadell House is a dream. It's right on the beach — any closer to the sea and you'd get wet — and it's one of those places that fits the bill whatever the weather is doing. You can go for a long walk on the beach, take a soak in the huge rolltop bath or sit in the top-floor window seat and watch the wild Atlantic waves batter the sands. And the finishes befit the price tag: the kitchen is top of the line, a serious art collection lines the walls and there's antique furniture wherever you Three nights' self-catering for four from £1,299 ( Fly to Knock
This is the kind of hotel that's as good in the blazing sun, when you can cycle to Roundstone for crab claws, as it is when it's tipping down, which gives you an excuse to cuddle up by the fire and play Scrabble. Wherever you find yourself, you're met with cracking views of the Connemara mountains through the arched windows, or the reflection of the 18th-century castle if you walk the riverside trail. Its new sauna is right on the lake, so you can alternate between sweating and swimming, and the breakfast — featuring a giant, hand-carved ham — is one of the best in the B&B doubles from £264 ( Fly to Knock
A main road in Dublin's city centre, Camden Street is fairly hectic and noisy. But once the heavy door of this converted townhouse closes behind you, all that madness falls away (particularly as you're handed a free glass of bubbles at check-in). With seven rooms, Number 59 is more intimate guesthouse than hotel but it's one that is full of cool design touches such as pink walls, a massive velvet sofa in the bar and hessian rugs in the bedrooms. Bear in mind that the two rooms at the front of the building aren't as quiet — those listed windows can't compete with all the street noise. The Iveagh Gardens are just around the corner so nip there to lounge in the park or breathe in the smell of the rose B&B doubles from £108 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin
Up on this jagged, cliff-lined peninsula in Donegal, Fanad Lighthouse pokes up from the lush green headland and stands guard over the sea — and while it's now automated, it's still an active lighthouse. Visitors pop in for tours throughout the day but, when the centre shuts up shop, it's the sole domain of those staying in the lighthouse keeper's cottages at its base. It's a perfect spot for peace and quiet. There's nothing to be seen for miles bar the herd of nearby Highland cows and seabirds flitting between the cliffs. Inside, things are lovely and cosy, with small stoves and battered Two nights' self-catering for two from £293 ( Fly to Londonderry or Belfast
Ballymaloe is a hallowed name in the Irish food scene — the Allen family bought this country house in 1948, opened it as a restaurant in 1964 and have been running it as a hotel since 1967. And their nearby cookery school has become a springboard for many restaurateurs and chefs, which explains why the food is so damn good. The menu, like the aesthetic, leans towards the traditional (think roast beef and dessert trolleys) but it all works perfectly. There are 33 bedrooms, with floral wallpaper and padded headboards, and some have terraces overlooking the gardens. The nearby Ballycotton cliff walk is a great spot for a seaside B&B doubles from £285 ( Fly to Cork
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It can be tough to strike the perfect balance between traditional 'cottagecore' aesthetics and the modern touches you need to keep things practical. These converted townhouse cottages, which can be rented separately or together, have found that middle ground — there's exposed stone and wood-burning stoves but also Sage coffee machines, underfloor heating and wi-fi. And the soft touches are beautiful, with Irish linen, tweed throws and local ceramics. There are five cottages in total, spread around a communal courtyard garden, and they sleep between two and six people. As the name suggests, you're right in the village of Roundstone, with its charming harbour and excellent pubs such as O'Dowd's (great for seafood and Guinness).Details Two nights' self-catering for two from £360 ( Fly to Knock
There are several accommodation options on the grounds of Mount Congreve, an 18th-century country house in Waterford with expansive (and seriously impressive) gardens. You could go for an off-grid one-bed bell tent, with Foxford blankets and a wood-burning stove, or the more swish eco cabins for two or four people, which have underfloor heating and a private hot tub. But the two-bedroom gate lodges have a unique charm, with a dark, gothic colour scheme, antique beds and velvet wingback armchairs. Whichever you opt for, you can make the most of the after-hours access to the historic gardens to explore without any other visitors Two nights' self-catering for two from £243 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin
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In my eyes, the best kind of country house hotel is one that feels as if it's barely changed in decades. I want well-worn armchairs, clusters of mismatching display plates on the walls and stacks of books by the fireplace (which is always kept burning, naturally). The 18th-century Rathmullan House fits that mould to a tee. The four separate lounges and library feel intimate enough that you may just get them to yourself, and the 31 bedrooms all have a cutesy, traditional feel. There's a direct pathway from the hotel down to the beach if you fancy a cold dip in Lough Swilly before warming your cockles in the hotel's heated B&B doubles from £168 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
While the main Georgian house is the private domain of the Fennell family, guests can book a stay in the property's converted stables. The owners, James and Joanna Fennell, lived in this stable yard when they were first married so it feels like a home, albeit one designed by people with impeccable taste. The studio apartment has huge windows and doors that flood the space with light, and the shelves are overflowing with books, some of which are the work of the photographer James. The larger property sleeps up to six and both have access to the courtyard garden, filled with lavender bushes and clay plant pots. It's less than an hour from Dublin, and Blessington Lake is a 30-minute drive One night's self-catering for two from £159 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin
This geodesic dome is built into the treetops on a working farm. Waking up to the sound of birdsong, as the sun rises and gently illuminates the woodland, is like forest bathing for those who can't be bothered to go outside. There's also an architecturally impressive stilt house on the grounds, with a fire-heated outdoor bath and giant windows overlooking the wilds, and the lakeside sauna is a One night's room-only from £251 ( Fly to Knock
On a vast farm perched on the clifftops in east Cork, this converted barn is filled to the brim with overstuffed bookshelves, armoires and kitchen shelves stacked with mismatching crockery. The spacious living room has a deep sofa and opens out to a courtyard, more often than not populated with the owner's dogs or rambling chickens. The kitchen comes fully equipped with decent cookery gear such as Le Creuset casserole dishes and proper knives. As well as the two-bedroom barn, there's a separate studio apartment and a coastal cabin, with great views over the cliffs from the floor-to-ceiling windows. There's a great farmers' market every Saturday in nearby Midleton, and you can pop into the Jameson distillery for a tour and a One night's self-catering for two from £150 ( Fly to Cork
This new guesthouse has been years in the making and has strong rewilding principles at its core. The setting, in a former dairy farm just outside the bohemian village of Ballydehob in west Cork, is ideal for a complete break from reality. There are just three rooms in the guesthouse, formerly a farmhouse known for its céilís (dances), and in September they'll be launching snazzy new cabins. Until then you can snuggle under linen-clad duvets and make use of the sauna and cold plunges in the courtyard. This corner of the country is ridiculously beautiful — catch the ferry from Baltimore to Cape Clear, the Irish-speaking island that's the southernmost point in B&B doubles from £168 ( Fly to Cork
You can't go wrong with any of the heritage properties run by the Irish Landmark Trust but this city centre hideaway brings a dose of countryside charm to the middle of Dublin. The 18th-century coachman's cottage is set above the working stables for the Irish police horses, and has a great view over the nearby Georgian townhouses and their fancy private gardens. The three double rooms have wood-panelled walls, super soft bedding and antique furniture, and there's a big rolltop bath too. The National Gallery of Ireland is just around the corner, as is the grand Merrion Square Two nights' self-catering for six from £788 ( Fly or take the ferry to Dublin
Deep in the lush green mountains of the Iveragh peninsula in the southwest, this remote two-bedroom cottage may look like a traditional dwelling from the outside but those thick stone walls hide a thoughtfully preserved and chic interior. The whitewashed walls and exposed beams in the living room make for an inviting hangout but you'll probably want to spend most of your time in the main bedroom, where the giant picture window overlooks the lake below. Alternatively, the sunken bath has a glass roof, so you can lie back and do some stargazing — the cottage is in Ireland's first Dark Sky Reserve, after Four nights' self-catering for two from £1,195 ( Fly to Cork
There's a bit of a French château feel to the five rooms in Mossie's B&B, with delicate toile florals on the walls, ornate wrought iron beds and antique sconces. The best rooms have great views out over the ocean, and one has a private balcony and claw-foot slipper bath to boot. The gorgeous Beara peninsula is on your doorstep, including the Healy Pass, one of the most scenic drives in Ireland. It also has a slick converted workshop in the garden if you prefer to go self-catering, with exposed brick walls, copper detailing and a handmade super-king bed overlooking the sycamore B&B doubles from £130 ( Fly to Cork
With 16 lodges spaced out between ancient woodland on a 100-acre country estate, Drumhierny embraces the surrounding nature with giant glass-fronted cabins, from A-frame designs to more discreet lodges. Things are kept simple on the inside but the main selling point is the view out to the forest. The outdoor spa in the old walled garden is a dream: you can soak in baths full of seaweed or dip in the hot tubs, with towering oak trees and twittering birds for company. There's a lovely pub, Beirnes of Battlebridge, a ten-minute stroll away, and you can hike or bike on the canalside footpath right by the estate Two nights' self-catering for six from £502 ( Fly to Knock
For a few years it felt like there were countless yurts popping up all around Ireland but Lough Mardal is one of the few that has stood the test of time. These plush skydome yurts are well spaced out so you feel as if you're in the middle of nowhere. They're placed on individual decks, which is great if the weather is on your side, but if it gets wild the wood-burners keep things nice and toasty, and the plush bed is piled high with blankets and a feathery duvet. You can make use of the kitchen in the communal lodge and its new lakeside sauna and swimming jetty is perfect for summer swims. Just beyond, the wildness of the Donegal coast is great for mountain One night's self-catering for two from £124 ( Fly to Knock
These three cottages, on a gated patch of land a few minutes' walk from the pubs and craic of Westport town, vary between an old Irish style and a more Scandi vibe. The cart house, right on the edge of the river, is a one-bedroom where the water flows right by the windows and everything, from the linen bedsheets to the hessian carpets, is designed with comfort in mind. If there's a big gang of you, the main house is ideal, with an ample kitchen, comfy living room and seven en suite One night's self-catering for two from £126 ( Fly to Knock
Set on a curved tail of land just north of Sligo town, Rosses Point packs a hell of a lot into a small village — a wide, white sand beach, excellent pubs and a cracking restaurant, the Driftwood. And right upstairs you'll find eight boutique bedrooms, the best with a rolltop bath by the window so you can soak in Voya scented bubbles as you look out over the sea. It also has a newly renovated studio apartment nearby, with floor-to-ceiling views of the water, just a two-minute walk from the beach and the popular waterfront Room-only doubles from £80 ( Fly to Knock
An Irish Landmark property, this one-bedroom lodge is essentially a miniature castle, with its own turrets, battlements and spiral staircase. Inside, the medieval touches are softened with overstuffed armchairs, granny-chic rugs and a big rolltop bath, but if the weather is in any way nice there's also a rooftop terrace where you can eat your dinner. It's on the grounds of the 18th-century Glenarm Castle, with a gigantic walled garden and charming little tearoom, and you might even see the resident rescue hedgehogs snuffling around the Two nights' self-catering for two from £331 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
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I feel most glamping pods have had their day but the one-bedroom cabins at Enniskeen have a unique aesthetic, and are spaced well apart in the wild forests of Tollymore, about 45 minutes' drive from Belfast. Each has a USP — one is in an apple orchard right on the riverbanks, another regularly gets deer walking past the giant windows and the last has a brilliant view of the nearby mountains. A breakfast hamper is delivered each morning so you can tuck into organic sausage sandwiches and warm pastries in bed as you watch the morning light move over the countryside. Oh, and each has a private wood-fired hot B&B doubles from £288 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
This hotel looks a little bit like a villain's lair, the red-brick turrets rising up from a height overlooking Newcastle beach. But inside, the vibe is gothic hunting lodge, with dark floral wallpaper, giant fireplaces and mounted deer heads on the wall. The 180 restyled rooms keep that feel going, with panelled walls and tartan carpets, while the stylish restaurant JJ Farrall's is so good you won't need to leave the joint — think rich sticky game, local lamb with spring peas and triple-cooked chips. There's loads of excellent hiking in the nearby Mourne Mountains, and the beach is good for B&B doubles from £165 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
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You can't get much cosier than a roaring fire, a dram of local whiskey and a low puddle of light from a gas lamp. And that's just what you get at Bushmills Inn, just a few minutes away from the whiskey distillery of the same name. In this historic inn the 41 rooms come with exposed beams, four-poster beds and huge baths, and there's a tiny hidden library and a cinema where movie nights are held on Thursdays. The restaurant specialises in comfort food like Guinness and onion soup, marrow beef burgers and sticky toffee pudding, all of which you'll be craving if you visit the blustery Giant's B&B doubles from £175 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
Every corner of this boutique hotel, from the cheeky wallpaper in the room dubbed the 'booboir' to the leopard-print chairs in the bar, is deliciously eccentric. The smallest rooms are compact but the suites, with oodles of room and huge rolltop baths, are a delight, and named after inspirational folk with a local connection, such as CS Lewis and the artist Helen Trevor. Touches such as record players and vinyl, medicine cabinets stuffed with antique jars and four-poster beds make for an elevated, fun and endlessly comfy stay. The surrounding Queen's Quarter, with top-notch restaurants and shops, is a great place to make your base in B&B doubles from £120 ( Fly or take the ferry to Belfast
Have we missed any? Share your favourite Ireland stay in the comments
