2 days ago
Louise Bruton: Penneys' adaptive lingerie is half the price of Kim Kardashian's Skims. That's a game-changer
My wardrobe malfunctions may not be as dramatic as some onstage performers, but they can still cause a scene. Having a boogie at a gig in Dublin recently, my movements were cut short. The belt of my linen overcoat, which I had tied behind my back, had unravelled and wound around the spokes of my wheelchair, grounding me to a halt. It took two security guards to set me free.
Pairing billowing material with a wheelchair is a rookie mistake. Lots of bad things can happen, from getting lassoed like a calf to mucking up the material as it drapes over the tyres. And if it rains there will be soggy arms for days. I wore the coat knowing those risks, but I also wore it because it looked good.
When I get dressed, I usually have a particular persona in mind – kooky art teacher at parties,
Paul Mescal
in GAA shorts on balmy days, B-list pop star for weddings – but the execution won't always complement my wheelchair. No matter what their personal taste or style is, disabled people usually have to pick an outfit based around function and comfort.
This was something I found myself thinking about at the launch earlier this month of
Penneys
' latest adaptable clothing line. Included in the range are wardrobe staples such as blue denim jeans (€22), a beige trench coat (€35), white shirts (€20), drawstring tracksuit bottoms (€18), pyjama tops and bottoms (€18 each). There are accessible features like snap fastenings on T-shirts and bras, waist loops to pull up trousers, and hidden openings for stoma or catheter lines on shirts – all potentially helpful adjustments for various disabilities. Penneys' adaptive lingerie (€10/€12) is also half the price of
Kim Kardashian
's Skims offerings. It will be a game-changer for some.
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And yet, unfortunately for me, I would never choose to wear the range. The conservative styles don't fit in with my somewhat eclectic taste palette, and I don't see how these adaptable features will make it any easier for me to get dressed or to move around compared with what I wear already.I left the launch trying to understand what adaptive fashion really means, generally and personally.
The best way I've seen it in action is when brides take their wedding dresses from civil ceremony to unruly dance floor by bustling the excess material of their skirts up and away from stomping feet. Like dancing brides, adaptive clothing should mean changing your clothes based on your surroundings or your needs.
A dress in Primark's new adaptive fashion range
Disability
is a wide-ranging term used to cover thousands of conditions and illnesses, and within those, each person's experience differs wildly. If only a portion of a clothing line is adaptive, it will serve only a small percentage of disabled people.
Browsing the hundreds of items on online retailer
Zalando
's adaptive edit, personal style has room to thrive for adults and children. Broken down into categories like fit for prostheses, sensory friendly, easy closure, easy to dress and seated style, these are more than just staple items.
While Nike and Skechers have clothes that coincidentally have adaptive qualities in this edit, lesser known names like Anna Field, Pier One and Even&Odd have items designed with disabled people in mind and use disabled models to display them. Alas, these clothes don't sing to me either.
Primark's adaptive fashion range will be a game-changer for some
When many shops in real life still don't have larger changing rooms, it's easy to throw everything into an online basket, but clothes I've bought from other adaptive lines have been unsuccessful. A raincoat in the seated style used so much material that it pooled over my wheels, catching water and mud and all of the things it was meant to resist at an Irish festival during a yellow weather warning. Loops to pull on shoes have pulled all the way off, and snap fasteners on jackets have not stayed fastened.
I am still learning what I need from my clothes, but I also want to shop in a sustainable way instead of this trial and error approach.
Adjustable sleeves and elasticated or drawstring trousers are essential for me as I'm in the seated position all day, but I also need breathable materials like cotton, linen or wool to protect my skin and to regulate my body heat. A brand that nails those criteria is Yoke, a London-based studio that uses deadstock fabrics to make relaxed clothing out of natural fibres. Their loose
fitting gingham trousers
with an elasticated waist means I don't get that sharp pinch from zips or buttons.
A cut-off zip-sleeve jacket from Primark's adaptive fashion range
Closer to home is Miss She's Got Knits by Dubliner Karen Birney who handknits colourful cardigans, jumpers and vests using Merino or alpaca wool in chunky or cutesy stitches. When her cropped
Supersoft MSGK vest
came online in her summer drop, I clicked 'buy' immediately. With a vest, sleeves getting frayed by my wheels is a non-issue and the cropped fit prevents material from bulking in my lap. But the best thing about this vest is that people always compliment me when I wear it.
Primark launched its new adaptive fashion range earlier this month
The above pieces are investments, but because I've become better at searching for what I need online, Vinted fills in the gap for affordable preloved clothing. Most weeks my postman brings a bundle of vintage and designer clothes that tend to my needs with no compromise on the environment, my style, or my bank account. Well, maybe
some
financial compromise.
Adaptive clothing shouldn't be niche, but with Penneys on board everyday fashion is becoming more accessible for disabled people. I would argue, however, that if brands really wanted to implement an adaptive approach, then a free alteration service for customers would cater to all bodies and backgrounds while also looking out for the planet. A gal can dream.
