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Tiger tiger… India's most luxurious new safari lodge burns bright
It was one of those #tellmewithouttellingme moments that showed I was in tiger country. I was on my way to Bandhavgarh, a wildlife sanctuary and national park in the Madhya Pradesh region of central India, and the traffic on the two-lane bridge ahead was jammed. Motorbikes, cars and buses blocked the road.
Oblivious to the furious honking of those wanting to pass, dozens of locals stood by the wayside recording the adjoining grassland on their mobile phones. Women in saris, many with their faces hidden by the drape, several carrying children, stood excitedly pointing at something. No one was paying heed to the lone forest guard, much less his attempt to restore order — 'don't get off your vehicles', 'keep moving', 'don't stop'. 'Fools,' said my driver, exasperated. 'There's this tigress that frequents the area and she charges at people when irritated.'
As if on cue, we heard a low guttural growl that clearly meant: 'Leave me alone.' The rebellious (and reckless) crowd would have none of it. The cacophony only grew louder as the adult tigress, an impressive representative of her kind, stepped out of the tall grass into full view.
At about four feet from paw to shoulder, and seven feet from head to tail, she was a muscular ambassador for India's tiger conservation success story, and of Bandhavgarh's role in it. There are approximately 5,574 wild tigers remaining in the world, according to the Global Tiger Forum, and more than 66 per cent of them (3,682) can be found in India. The reserve is home to 135, and density is high — 7.5 tigers per 100 sq km, according to a 2023 Indian government report. It has more individuals than the smaller and more popular Ranthambore reserve in neighbouring Rajasthan, which has 57 (though 9.6 animals per 100 sq km).
Also to Bandhavgarh's advantage is its flat, deciduous scrubland, which ensures sightings are plentiful and often easy, such as the one I enjoyed even before arriving at my tiger-spotting safari destination: the new Oberoi Vindhyavilas hotel. Thankfully, the feline decided not to live up to her reputation, choosing instead to disappear behind a veil of sal (a type of hardwood) trees and tall bamboo.
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As I drove up to the entrance of the Vindhyavilas, the thick foliage screening the property parted to reveal a squat structure with traditional terracotta-tiled sloping roofs, then large hand-carved wooden doors featuring motifs borrowed from the tattoo artwork of the local Gond community, a native tribe of forest dwellers.
The Oberoi Group, which operates 22 hotels and resorts in India, has changed its stripes for this light and airy hotel, doing away with its usual gilt and brocade in favour of a rustic chic look. Inside, there is more tribal art: a relief wall showed a ceremonial procession of the Baiga (another of the region's tribes) and lamps of burnished metal hang from a vaulted ceiling.
Dark woods, muted shades of textiles and lustrous leather reminded me of safari lodges in Kenya and Tanzania, and cubbyholed partitions held studio pottery, wooden deer heads and potted plants. The tiger, Bandhavgarh's emblem, is pictured via the paintings of a local artist, embossed on brass dinnerware and printed on lampshades. Sweeping views are of tall waving grasses, towering trees and a lake with lotuses and fountains beside the pool (there's a spa and gym too).
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I headed straight to the restaurant for a late lunch of khichdi, a sumptuous dish of rice and lentils with yoghurt and pickled vegetables, then curled up for a nap in my luxurious glass-walled tent-like structure (actually a building with canvas over the top) — one of 19, each with its own private garden and sun deck. There are two villas too.
I needed a rest ahead of my few days of game drives, which generally start at 5.30am and last for five hours, and run again in the afternoons — another four hours. That evening I ate at the Bush Kitchen, outside by the lake, where the gentle breeze, the rustle of trees, the chirping of crickets and the 'ribbits' of frogs soothed and refreshed me further.
If you're a safari newbie, especially in India, entering a tiger reserve can feel like a feat of endurance. Rickety, mini 4×4 SUVs, manufactured by the Indian company Maruti Suzuki, line up at the entrances. The sun has just about risen and birds are out for breakfast. Forest guards in charge of protecting the reserve check tickets. And when the gates open drivers race each other on dirt tracks to get to where forest department trackers have spotted animals. The landscape is rugged, with bumpy tracks leading over hills and through thick jungle. As someone with a chronic back ailment, I found the Oberoi's souped-up Mahindra 4×4 SUVs a game changer, and much more comfortable.
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Less comfortable is the summer heat, with temperatures reaching the mid-40s, but so be it: this is the best season for tiger spotting, a time when animals park themselves near watering holes. The alarm calls of birds, deer and monkeys are the best indicators a tiger or leopard is nearby, though the screech of a jungle fowl from behind tall grass turned out to signal a sloth bear digging for termites.
On one afternoon drive, as we swept past a rancid pool, our guide did a sharp turn and braked to a halt. As the dust settled, what he was pointing to, about 500m away, came into focus. A tiger, half hidden under a tree. Suddenly the head lifted to examine us; the ears twitched. Then the tail rose like an antenna. It was an 18-month-old, only recently separated from his mother. He decided we were no threat and rolled over with his belly to the sky to snooze in the shade. He looked an adorable furball, but then I remembered seeing tigers bring down sambhar swamp deer with a swoop of their paws, and the occasion I witnessed a tigress clashing with her former mate, leaving his jaw hanging by a sinew.
Bandhavgarh is part of a network of tiger reserves, including Panna (with 79 animals) in the north, Kanha (360) to the south and Satpura (149) to the west, so if you're coming to the area — which is six hours' drive south of Delhi, or just over four from the closer regional airport at Jabalpur — you could plan to tour a couple, as well as the nearby Unesco world heritage site of Khajuraho, with its 11th-century Hindu and Jain temples.
On my second morning I joined Soulin Chakraborty, Vindhyavilas's lead naturalist, on a birding walk around the 21-acre property, home to up to 65 species, depending on the season. We saw green bee-eaters, jungle babblers, plum-headed parakeets, black-hooded orioles, an Indian grey hornbill and the rare Jerdon's leafbird, and about a dozen types of butterfly.
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The abundance is thanks to the carpets of fountain grass, sal, arjun, mango and mohua trees, endemic species planted here. In summer locals ferment the mohua's flowers and brew into a heady liquor that has the herbaceousness of gin and the sharpness of tequila, versions of which are fast becoming a favourite of India's top mixologists.
Surprisingly, the Oberoi's own cocktails don't use this ingredient, though others play on local lore. For instance Kaa, the python from Jungle Book (which was inspired by the jungles of central India), is transformed into a tequila-based drink called the Rock Python, using a homemade elderflower syrup. Charger, a dark rum cocktail, pays homage to one of Bandhavagarh's most famous tigers, and the refreshing non-alcoholic, thyme-flavoured Brahmi is named after an ancient script carved into caves within the forest.
This region of Madhya Pradesh is called Bagelkhand and has its own distinct language and cuisine. The hotel's executive chef Sachin Kumar spent time with a local royal family's cooks, and several of their recipes have been incorporated into the hotel's repertoire: a fiery red amaranth stir-fry with a lentil and yoghurt curry, and jungli maas, a traditional preparation of red meat slow cooked with ghee, red chillies, onions and garlic.
There are other cuisines too: chicken schnitzel, braised pork belly and Neapolitan-style pizzas straight from the oven that had the kids on a neighbouring table stuffing their faces. The dish I savoured most was butternut squash with a cashew cream; roasted just enough to be cooked through without losing its juiciness.
On my last afternoon safari drive, as we sat watching a tigress dozing in a pool, it occurred to me that it wasn't just the tiger sightings that had made my three days here memorable. It was the thoughtful touches that usually make or break a stay. Earplugs by the bedside. The mini menu in the airport transfer vehicle so you can order your lunch or dinner even before you've checked in. It's that kind of service that makes a stay like this Ramamurthy was a guest of Oberoi Vindhyavilas Wildlife Resort, which has all-inclusive doubles from £590 ( Fly to Delhi
This eight-night private tour visits three of central India's national parks to spot the tiger and some of the country's other animals and birds including the sloth bear, wild boar, rhesus monkey, black kite and the almost-extinct swamp deer. After a night in Delhi, you'll spend two nights in Bandhavgarh National Park, three in a lodge in Kanha National Park, home to about 125 tigers and 100 leopards, and two in Pench National Park. Up to 11 game drives are included along the way, and you will be joined by a naturalist for extra insight. Details Eight nights' B&B from £3,645pp, including internal flights, transfers, excursions and most extra meals ( Fly to Delhi
It's no easy feat to set eyes on one of the world's rarest big cats. This escorted group trip to Ladakh in India's far northwest includes four nights in the region's capital Leh, plus six nights staying in a remote mountain guesthouse in the Ulley Valley. This new guesthouse has comfortable rooms but basic facilities including shared bathrooms. The region is home to ten snow leopards and expert local guides will maximise your chances of spotting one. The tour concludes with two nights in Delhi, including a trip to Sultanpur National Park and Bird Sanctuary. Details Twelve nights' B&B from £4,795pp, including flights, transfers, excursions and most extra meals (
The endangered red panda lives mainly in the trees of the temperate Eastern Himalayan forests. This private tailored tour includes four full days searching for this hard-to-spot mammal, staying in a cosy homestay in the Singalila National Park and eating local dishes with the host family. Expert guides will lead daily excursions in the surrounding forests and mountains looking for red pandas while spotting other animals like the Himalayan black bear, clouded leopard and exotic bird life. A night in a Delhi hotel is included before and after the tour, and an optional extension to explore Darjeeling can be Seven nights' B&B from £2,200pp, including flights and transfers ( Fly to Delhi
