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Best luxury hotels in Lisbon 2025 for a chic city break, from butler service to Michelin-starred meals
Best luxury hotels in Lisbon 2025 for a chic city break, from butler service to Michelin-starred meals

The Independent

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • The Independent

Best luxury hotels in Lisbon 2025 for a chic city break, from butler service to Michelin-starred meals

Lisbon is quickly becoming the go-to city for a luxurious European getaway, and it's easy to see why. While it's no longer the budget destination it once was, the Portuguese capital still offers a stylish city break at prices more accessible than other capitals like Paris or London. With centuries of history leaving behind a legacy of palaces, palacetes, and noble mansions, many of which have been restored into luxe lodgings, the city combines old-world charm with modern luxury. Whether you're seeking a food-forward hotel with Michelin-star dining, a whimsical boutique stay, or a wine-themed journey through Lisbon 's rich history, the city caters well to those with a taste for the finer things in life. Throw in family-friendly options for urban adventurers and decadent spas for pure relaxation, and you've got the perfect destination for a blow-the-budget trip. Best luxury hotels in Lisbon 2025 At a glance Lisbon's luxury scene offers plenty of scope for lording it up, such as complimentary wine tasting at Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel Lucy Bryson, destination expert Best luxury hotels in Lisbon 2025 1. Torel Palace Lisbon hotel Lisbon's luxury scene offers plenty of scope for lording it up in historic buildings, but Torel Palace delivers what few others can – some of the city's most spectacular views without the crowds or leg-burning climb. This five-star retreat, spread across four historic buildings including two early 1900s palaces, sits right beside the 19th-century Ascensor da Lavra, the city's oldest funicular, which whisks guests to and from Avenida da Liberdade. Enjoy the view from the two outdoor pools, the terrace at Black Pavillion restaurant, or by braving the winding staircase to the top of the gleaming Torel Tower – once Lisbon's highest point. By night, take a seat by the open kitchen to watch skilled chefs work their magic at the intimate Michelin-starred 2Monkeys chef's table restaurant, or relax at the hammam-equipped spa. Oh, and keep an eye out for the regal presence of hotel cat Dona Chica as you explore her domain. 2. Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel A stay at this artfully restored 1747 palace combines three of Lisbon's most alluring features – rich history, lively nightlife, and excellent wine. Front rooms face São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, offering panoramic vistas of the River Tagus and São Jorge Castle, while back rooms overlook vibrant Bairro Alto (thankfully with superior soundproofing). Every guest enjoys a complimentary wine tasting, setting the tone for a vinho-focused stay. The building's remarkable survival following the 1755 earthquake reveals itself in preserved 18th-century tiles and frescoes, while Federico restaurant serves sophisticated Portuguese-French fusion cuisine. Wine enthusiasts can continue their grape-based indulgence with treatments at the adjacent Caudalie spa. 3. Bairro Alto Hotel Sophisticated but far from stuffy, the Leading Hotels of the World-affiliated Bairro Alto Hotel occupies an 18th-century building that once housed the Grand Hôtel de L'Europe. A 2019 renovation, led by Pritzker Prize-winner Eduardo Souto de Moura, restored its historic façade and expanded the hotel across an entire block. Its 87 rooms, including 22 suites, are both deeply comfortable and supremely stylish, but while most have sweeping city views, it's hard to compete with those from the rooftop bar. After a sundowner (try the Mouraria cocktail) BAHR restaurant delivers Michelin-recommended Portuguese cuisine, and the wellness centre offers deeply pampering treatments to soothe limbs tired by climbing Lisbon's seven hills. 4. Casa do Barão hotel Don't be fooled by the reasonable rates or discreet residential street location – the sturdy front door of Casa do Barão conceals luxuries rarely found in central Lisbon. This artfully restored hideaway greets guests with the aroma of freshly baked cakes and the scent of lavender and jasmine drifting from its secluded garden, complete with an inviting dipping pool. The property doubles as a miniature gallery, showcasing treasures from the owners' Brazilian adventures alongside works by notable Portuguese artists such as Vhils. Many light-filled rooms feature covered balconies or vast private terraces perfect for surveying surrounding rooftops and neighbouring gardens. Enjoy breakfast on the sunny terrace, sip port in the well-stocked library, or step out to explore sophisticated Chiado or bustling Bairro Alto – both just moments away. 5. Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon If money is no object, consider a stay at Lisbon's most unabashedly glamorous hotel. Surrounded by designer boutiques on the well-heeled Avenida da Liberdade, this glittering establishment houses one of Portugal's largest private collections of mid-century Portuguese art, including Almada Negreiros' stunning Centaur tapestries. The hotel is a treat for foodies, with Michelin-starred Cura offering fine dining tasting menus, while neighbouring Kabuki has also earned a star for Japanese dishes showcasing the freshest Portuguese seafood. You can burn off a night's gastronomic adventures with laps in the 18-meter pool, jog around the rooftop running track with panoramic city views, and hush any thoughts about your spiralling credit card bill with soothing sessions at the zen-like spa. 6. Hotel das Amoreiras Tucked away on a leafy residential square shaded by mulberry trees and Lisbon's 16th-century Aqueduct, this cosy , chic spot opened in 2022 following the meticulous restoration of two 18th-century townhouses. The striking bottle-green tiled facade and Small Luxury Hotels of the World plaque hint at the stylish interiors within. This boutique bolthole features memorable touches like enormous walk-in showers and an in-room tea service. Far enough from crowds to feel like an escape, yet close enough to bars, restaurants and attractions to explore without endless cab rides. The à la carte breakfasts are a leisurely affair, and the neighbourhood square allows frazzled parents to enjoy a drink from the traditional kiosk while children play in the park. Child-free guests might prefer a margarita in the hotel's slick mirrored bar or exploring nearby Bairro Alto and Principe Real. 7. The Ivens hotel Nobody could accuse this 2022 addition to Lisbon's luxury hotel scene of taking itself too seriously. In affluent Chiado, The Ivens – named after Portuguese explorer Roberto Ivens – embraces a spirit of adventure with a jungle-themed lobby, macaw motifs, and safari-style staff uniforms that tend to be a big hit with junior urban explorers. It's part of Marriott's Autograph Collection of independent hotels, and it's clear that the more staid parent company has let the Ivens' design team have full control over the hotel's interiors. The 86 rooms blend plush comfort with tropical fever dream décor, while Rocco, its hip Italian dining space, spans a crudo bar, an acclaimed Italian restaurant, and a flamboyant gastrobar with a dedicated negroni menu. 8. The Vintage Hotel & Spa A fragrant subterranean spa, a hidden rooftop bar, and a secluded location overlooking Lisbon's botanical gardens make this luxury boutique hotel feel like a true find. As the name suggests, the décor is pure retro-chic – think jewel-toned velvets, vintage radios, and statement mid-century furnishings. Rooms lean into the theme, with wooden hostess trolleys stocked for the perfect G&T, though the bartenders at the breezy V Rooftop Bar may outshine your efforts. It all feels like stepping into another era, but contemporary bars, restaurants, and the designer boutiques of Avenida da Liberdade – Lisbon's answer to the Champs-Élysées – are just a short stroll away. Address: R. Rodrigo da Fonseca 2, 1250-191 Lisboa 9. Palácio do Governador hotel Once home to the Governor of Belém Tower, this 16th-century palace offers luxurious accommodation just steps from the Tower itself and the grand Jerónimos Monastery. Roman ruins discovered during renovation have been thoughtfully incorporated into the hotel's design. Sip a poolside cocktail beneath enormous palms or dive into one of Lisbon's most impressive underground spas – a 1,200-square-metre playground of heated pools, dual cascading waterfalls and icy fountains. Foodies can enjoy excellent Portuguese-Asian dining without the crowds of downtown at on-site restaurant Po Tat, and it's just a short walk to join the queue at Pastéis de Belém, where locals have been getting their custard tart fix since 1837. 10. Hotel Pestana Palace When Lisbon house prices surged dramatically in 2017, locals liked to (half) joke that it was all the fault of Madonna, who spent six months at this beyond-grand restored palace while house hunting that same year. This 19th-century National Monument set between Belém and central Lisbon offers four Royal Suites, where Madonna and her entourage stayed, complete with butler service. The remaining 177 rooms, 13 suites and regally furnished shared spaces aren't too shabby either, and guests can dine at the suitably lavish on-site Valle Flôr restaurant before whiling away days – or months – in the manicured gardens, complete with outdoor pool (the heated indoor pool is an enticing rainy day alternative). Address: R. Jau 54, 1300-314 Lisboa Why trust us The hotels featured in this list have been carefully selected by The Independent's expert travel writers, each with a deep knowledge of the destinations they cover. Our contributors either live in these locations or visit frequently, ensuring a personal and informed perspective. When picking which hotels to include, they consider their own experience staying in the hotels and evaluate location, facilities, service and all the other details that make for an exceptional stay for all types of traveller.

5 Epic Rooftop Bars In Phuket
5 Epic Rooftop Bars In Phuket

Forbes

time3 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

5 Epic Rooftop Bars In Phuket

AKOYA Star Lounge at V Villas Phuket - MGallery Collection The largest island in Thailand isn't just a beach destination anymore, but a fine dining capital, with multiple Michelin recognitions and an ever-expanding roster of rooftop bars. These elevated spots offer everything from panoramic ocean views to Instagrammable moments and sunset DJs. Here are five rooftop bars worth a visit in Phuket. Secret Bay Phuket is an Instagrammer's dream. Tucked between Kamala and Patong beach, the journey to this hidden hillside bar includes a wooden path with photogenic stops, including a floating frame overlooking the Andaman Sea. Highlights include tropical cocktails, pineapple fried rice served in a pineapple, and mango sticky rice. For a memorable touch, cocktails can be delivered by birdcage zip lines. AKOYA Star Lounge at V Villas Phuket - MGallery Collection Perched 180 feet above sea level on a private hilltop, AKOYA Star Lounge offers 360-degree views of Ao Yon Bay and the Andaman Sea. This luxury rooftop bar, offers some of the best sunset views, thanks to its remote southern location with minimal light pollution and starlit skies. The design draws inspiration from the soft hues and luster of local Akoya oyster pearls farmed in the bay beneath the luxurious V Villas Phuket resort. This ultra-luxury rooftop bar serves a Thai-Mediterranean menu featuring dishes like arancini with Phuket crab truffle purée, Tasmanian salmon ceviche with tamari seaweed salad, and Parma ham skewers with arugula and mango dressing. As the sun sets, there are often live music performers, celebrity DJ sets and mixologists from the World's 50 Best Bars. The Sundeck Head to The Sundeck for stunning Kata Noi Beach views. With its glass walls and open design, this elegant white space offers unobstructed ocean vistas. Settle into a balcony couch for the best seats overlooking the beach. The menu features Mediterranean-inspired sangrias and pizzas alongside local favorites like prawn pomelo salad, calamari, and pad Thai chicken wings. A live DJ enhances the relaxed yet lively vibe. Conveniently located near the popular Karon Viewpoint. Find romantic dinner vibes and al fresco dining at Sizzle Rooftop Bar. Guests come not only for the soaring views but also for the tasty grilled steaks and seafood. It sits high in the hills of Patong District, with soaring Andaman Sea views. Enjoy signature dishes like the seafood tower, wagyu steaks served sizzling on a black stone, and a dessert sampler with crème brûlée and churros. Baba Nest views Baba Nest at Sri Panwa has 360-degree panoramic views stretching across Panwa Bay, Phang Nga Bay, and Phuket's hills. This rooftop is known for its wraparound infinity pool, plush pillow seating, and signature Sri-jitos—mojitos with lemongrass-infused Belvedere vodka. The limited menu focuses on Mexican-style tapas, but the views are the real star. Be sure to book early, as there's often a two-week waitlist. Situated in the heart of Phuket Town, Quip Sky Bar offers a unique rooftop with vintage-industrial design views of the old city. Its more llaid back than many of the upscale options on this list, embracing bohemian, artsy vibes. v But they don't sleep on the food, this spot is known for its reasonably priced array of rock lobster fdishes. Settle into cozy pillow seats or dining tables and sip on their signature For Love Quip Sky cocktail, a strawberry-flavored tequila and rum blend.

This Wyoming Ranch Now Has Luxury Riverfront Glamping—and It's a Secluded All-inclusive Escape
This Wyoming Ranch Now Has Luxury Riverfront Glamping—and It's a Secluded All-inclusive Escape

Travel + Leisure

time3 days ago

  • General
  • Travel + Leisure

This Wyoming Ranch Now Has Luxury Riverfront Glamping—and It's a Secluded All-inclusive Escape

Tucked into the wide expanse of south-central Wyoming, where the Snowy Range rises from the sagebrush and the sky looms, is Brush Creek Ranch. The 30,000-acre award-winning destination—named the best resort in Wyoming by Travel + Leisure readers in both 2023 and 2024—is a working cattle ranch with Blue-Ribbon fly-fishing, and a 600-acre private ski area. I finally got to experience this place for myself in January 2025 and learned first hand that, yes, Brush Creek Ranch is a high-end, all-inclusive escape, with chef-driven dining, an extensive wine cellar, and its own creamery, greenhouse, and distillery. But the ranch's true luxury revealed itself in the quiet moments: making the first turn on a slope entirely my own and riding horseback as snow fell in soft, silent flakes. Brush Creek Ranch is a place where boots and bathrobes coexist—where adventure is as much about slowing down as it is saddling up. The whole experience is about to get a little bit better with the launch of the ranch's new Platte Canyon Glamping resort. The riverfront glamping site, which is available for stays beginning June 15, is Brush Creek's most secluded, most intimate lodging—with all the hallmarks of a five-star property. Riverfront glamping tents and a luxury yurt are tended by a personal host and private chef who take care of all the details. It can accommodate just eight guests at a time and is only available through mid-October. Guests at the Platte Canyon Glamping resort are treated to all meals and two daily ranch activities, including horseback riding, fly-fishing, and archery. The new glamping property joins Brush Creek's three other established lodges: Magee Homestead, an adults-only wellness retreat with Forbes Five-Star accommodations; French Creek, an Orvis-endorsed fly-fishing and wingshooting lodge; and the flagship lodge and spa, which has centralized dining, a saloon, and both private cabins and Western lodge rooms. Brush Creek ranch is located on a 30,000-acre parcel of land outside Saratoga, Wyoming. It is 16 miles from the Saratoga Jet Center (private flights only), one hour from Laramie Regional Airport (LAR), and three-and-a-half hours from Denver International Airport (DIA). Platte Canyon Glamping is available for $4,500 per night with a minimum three-night stay. To book, visit

Discovering The Natural Splendor Of Tenerife, Spain's Misunderstood Tourist Destination
Discovering The Natural Splendor Of Tenerife, Spain's Misunderstood Tourist Destination

Forbes

time4 days ago

  • General
  • Forbes

Discovering The Natural Splendor Of Tenerife, Spain's Misunderstood Tourist Destination

Located just west of Morocco, the Canary Islands offer a spectacular array of historic settlements and natural features to explore, providing visitors with a glimpse into one of Spain's most unique territories—and for those searching for the perfect blend of luxury and outdoor adventure, Tenerife is the perfect destination. In spite of the raucous tourists that have wreaked havoc across the island for years, it remains a top-tier vacation destination, with the bulk of the late-night debauchery confined to a small portion of the western coast. Whether you're hoping to discover lush natural landscapes, centuries-old cities or incredible gastronomy, Tenerife has the perfect destination for every type of tourist imaginable. When it comes to discovering the rich history and culture of Tenerife, there's no better destination than Santa Cruz. The largest settlement on the island, this storied city dates back to the late 1400s, and in the modern era, there's no shortage of fascinating attractions to explore across its streets. In the heart of the downtown district, the Museum of Nature and Archaeology offers ample insight into the flora and fauna that call the Canary Islands home, while the Casa del Carnaval showcases dazzling outfits from one of Tenerife's most vibrant annual festivals—but for a truly idyllic experience, there's no beating the Palmetum. Established on a former garbage dump, this idyllic attraction now serves as one of the most gorgeous flora-filled features in all of the Canary Islands, with 29 acres of manicured botanical gardens packed with palms, flowers and other ultra-rare plants from all across the globe. As an added bonus, Santa Cruz is home to a wealth of high-end hotels and dazzling dining destinations for visitors to explore. When it comes to accommodations, the Hotel Taburiente offers lavish rooms and suites just a few steps away from Tenerife's Parque García Sanabria. During a stay, guests are welcome to take a dip in the rooftop pool or get a workout in at the on-property gym, but no visit is complete without stepping outside to explore the city's incredible dining scene. For those in need of a quick bite, Refugio de las Ánimas offers a wide array of local tapas to sample, but for a hearty meal in the center of the city, Jaxana is a can't miss spot, with flavorful Asian-fusion dishes like gyozas, green curry and nasi goreng all up for grabs. After exploring the splendor of Tenerife's capital, there's a wealth of stunning destinations found just outside city limits. Just north of Santa Cruz, the sprawling Parque Rural de Anaga is renowned for its lush landscapes, with more than 34,000 acres of tangled forest and verdant valleys to explore. During a visit, guests can bask in the beauty of Tenerife's native laurel forests during a stroll through the Sendero de los Sentidos—and as an added bonus, the surrounding area is home to its fair share of picturesque villages as well. Adorned with towering dragon trees, the town of La Orotava offers a glimpse into some of Tenerife's most stunning architectural wonders, with the carefully-manicured Hijuela del Botánico and Baroque-style Iglesia de La Concepción on display. Meanwhile, those who don't want to stray too far from Santa Cruz can find another fascinating community in the form of San Cristóbal de La Laguna. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, the city has earned abundant acclaim for its rich history and gorgeous architecture, even serving as the capital of Tenerife from the late 1400s to the early 1700s. After admiring the ornate Canarian-style balconies of Casa Salazar, guests can explore the rich flavors of the island during a visit to nearby El Lomo Winery. Founded in 1989, this opulent operation has mastered the art of Tenerife wine, providing visitors with an array of incredible whites, reds and vermouths to sample. Traveling further inland, visitors can discover the crown jewel of Canarian natural beauty in the form of El Teide. Standing at an awe-inspiring 12,188 feet, this towering volcano holds the prestigious honor of being the highest point in not just the Canary Islands, but all of Spain. While its craggy slopes may seem barren at first glance, the mountain is actually a bastion of Canarian biodiversity, with Teide violets, red bugloss and Tenerife lizards all calling the region home. Upon arrival, guests are welcome to hop onto the mountain's cable car for marvelous views of the Mars-like landscapes, while Parador de Las Cañadas del Teide is the perfect stop after a few minutes in the visitor's center, providing guests with classic Canarian dishes like wrinkled potatoes, seared cherne fish and salmorejo-infused rabbit at the on-property restaurant. While Tenerife's western coast has earned quite the reputation for its debaucherous party scene, there's a lot more to experience across the region than just English 20-somethings on holiday. Just half an hour north of Playa de las Américas, the aptly-named Los Gigantes provides visitors with particularly splendid views of the Tenerife coastline, with volcanic cliffs towering high above the town. During a visit, guests can get an up-close look at these natural features during a kayaking tour with Teno Activo, while Ocean Blue Tenerife is perfect for a follow-up excursion. Jetting off from the Costa Adeje marina, this outdoor adventure company is particularly well-suited for visiting wildlife lovers, offering an opportunity to spot common dolphins, short-finned pilot whales and a wealth of other marine creatures in their natural habitat. For those who prefer to spend their vacation relaxing along the island's rocky shores, there's no shortage of picturesque resorts found across western Tenerife. For a particularly lavish experience, the Hotel Gran Tacande offers lavish suites and a king-sized spa, while the Hard Rock Hotel is packed with a massive roster of amenities, with music history displays, a sprawling outdoor pool complex and more than ten drinking and dining venues all available for guests to enjoy—and the west coast is no slouch when it comes to fine dining either. On a sunny day, guests can head to Muelle Viejo to dine on stellar seafood dishes served in the ultra-idyllic town of Alcalá, while Starfish Atlantic Grill is a top spot for a lavish dinner, serving up smoked swordfish carpaccio, Spanish anchovies and all sorts of local cheeses in the Royal Hideaway Corales Suites. Though Tenerife's rowdy tourists have mustered up some bad press for the island over the years, the rich history, dazzling architecture and spectacular natural beauty of the island make it a top-tier tourist destination that's well worth visiting. As you plan your next voyage within the European Union, don't miss out on this largely-misunderstood gem of the Atlantic.

The Indian Ocean island with an underrated wild side that few tourists see
The Indian Ocean island with an underrated wild side that few tourists see

Times

time4 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Times

The Indian Ocean island with an underrated wild side that few tourists see

There are two things you can't trust in Mauritius. The first is the weather. Tropical storms are common during the summer season, which runs from November to May. I visit with my partner, Tom, in April, when bright blue mornings quickly transform into overcast washouts during the first few days of our week-long trip. The second thing is the deceptively strong rum, crafted with the island's sugar cane. Infamously, if you have one or two you'll feel on top of the world. Have three and you'll be lucky if you can stay upright in your seat. Keen not to let the odd shower dampen our spirits, we spend the first few days getting familiar with our resort, Shangri-La Le Touessrok, in the bay of Trou d'Eau Douce on the island's east coast. The whole place feels like a gift from the beach gods and is wrapped in 2.4 miles of sand, making our commute from suite to sea a smug 30-second saunter. Being a honeymoon haven, Mauritius is bursting with big-name luxury hotels, but narrowing things down is easy. This island grande dame has already had the gold seal of approval — British royalty used to holiday here in the Eighties — and in November underwent a £19 million renovation to celebrate its 45th birthday. It's also the only resort here to have its own private island, Ilot Mangénie, where we spend a day gloriously cabana-bound, watching fishermen throw nets like Frisbees and a horizon punctuated only by the sails of paragliders. Each of the 184 beach-facing bedrooms and suites, and three private villas, is a lesson in coastal chic, with soft, sand-coloured furnishings and raw materials, while the three wings into which the rooms are split are a smart way to subtly separate families from couples. We're staying in one of the Frangipani suites, set away from the rest of the resort by a wooden bridge and with welcome perks such as giant egg-shaped bathtubs, personalised minibars and à la carte breakfasts at Coco's Beach House. Stays in this wing also grant access to an adults-only infinity pool (one of three across the resort), scented by the frangipani flowers that float on the water and circled by an ice-cream man on a bicycle who stops to deliver tubs of mango sorbet. It's details like this that stand the hotel apart: the sun cream station that means you don't have to schlep back to your room if you've forgotten your own, waiters who notice before you do that you've finished your drink and offer you another. As well as complimentary activities such as snorkelling and kite-surfing, which could keep you at the resort for hours, staff are just as keen to show off the island itself and arrange several experiences to its wild south, largely untapped by tourists. As we drive, a Jurassic Park-worthy landscape unravels: a savannah of green sugar cane fields and dormant volcanoes circled by swooping parakeets. Our first stop is Grand Bassin, an 18m-deep crater lake surrounded by colourful Hindu statues. Offerings of sunshine-yellow allamanda flowers and bananas sit in heaps at the feet of the deities, where worshippers bow their heads in prayer and wash with sacred water from the lake as they make their wishes. There's a god or goddess for every desire — wealth, health and happiness. A young pujari, a Hindu priest, chimes a giant bell to send new prayers into the universe as he blesses offerings with spirals of incense. Spiritual or not, it's hard not to fall under the temple's spell. We light a candle at the base of Sashti, an elephant goddess and the protector of children, for our unborn baby daughter, who is snug in my stomach with four months to go until her arrival, and float around the temple in a balloon of trance-like calm. It's popped by a shriek when a hungry monkey arrives to make the most of the fruit offerings, leaping from statue to statue and grabbing handfuls of bananas, sending bags and bottles flying as he goes. The next stop, on higher ground, is the Bois Cheri tea plantation. Neat terraces of neon leaves are plucked and stuffed into sacks by pickers in straw hats and jewel-coloured saris before being dried, boxed and packaged up. A factory tour shows the process being played out in real time but, being pregnant, I find it too hot and humid so we duck out and go for a tasting instead — much more my cup of tea. We sip cups infused with cardamom, caramel and vanilla in a wooden café on stilts, which overlooks a lake where black swans scud over the surface and families of wild boar come to drink (£15). Much more chaotic are the scenes unfolding the following day at the capital, Port Louis. Thanks to years of colonisation, Mauritian cuisine is a mix of Indian, African, Chinese and European flavours. We get a taste of this diversity at the market, which buzzes with folk bartering in Creole. Shoppers swap handfuls of rupees for baskets of dragon fruit, tightly bound bunches of mint and crates of chilli fritters, loading up their motorbikes with the week's shopping. I peer through glass cabinets at towers of pastel-coloured cakes, made with sweet condensed milk, and I'm like a kid in a candy shop when I realise that nothing costs more than 20p. The biggest queues are at the dholl puri stands, where rotis made from split peas are griddled on a flat pan, stuffed with vegetables and drizzled in a spicy Creole tomato sauce — two for the equivalent of 30p. Another favourite is alouda, a traditional milky drink mixed with tapioca seeds. • Read our full guide to Mauritius The two make the perfect pairing for a picnic for our trip at the nearby Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden in Pamplemousses (£5; Colour-changing amazonica water lilies the size of tea trays blush from white to pink, fruit bats hang from lychee trees like furry Christmas decorations and palms with bark in the shape of crocodile teeth tower menacingly above us. Much sweeter is the smell: nutmeg, vanilla and cinnamon plants thrive here, and a wander through the 75 acres of gardens is like sneaking into the back of a bakery at Easter. The following day we swap bartering and botanics for a breakfast boat ride along the Grande Rivière Sud Est. Our boat glides towards a waterfall along khaki backwaters bracketed by towering volcanic rocks and a forest canopy where the beady eyes of macaque monkeys blink at us through the branches of guava trees. After being told that the area is a playground for reef sharks, we keep our eyes on the water, watching hopefully for ripples and fins. They don't appear but later, as we head out to sea, we are treated to an impromptu ballet performance by a set of spinner dolphins, which pirouette out of the water in perfect synchrony. There's a sea bass farm nearby, our skipper tells us, and they're also here for breakfast. Keen to see what else is below the surface, we pull on snorkels and float above the pristine reefs the island is known for, finding baby-pink coral so castle-like and perfect that it seems almost impossible it wasn't left behind from a Disney set. Armies of needle-thin silver trumpet fish thread their way through its branches. The water is so calm and clear that hours pass as we gleefully point out starfish and hover over giant brain-like corals, which shoals of translucent parrot fish nibble centimetres from our masks. Tom is most thrilled by the flat fish he discovers, so well camouflaged it would have remained hidden on the seabed if not for two 3D eyes that blink up at us as we swim above. Evenings are just as chilled and, back at the resort, the sky is so clear that we can trace constellations as easily as a child doing a dot-to-dot. Our favourite meals are barbecues on the sand, at which chefs flip giant lobsters and steaks over the coals under a twinkling set of fairy lights — though the Japanese and Indian are worthy competition. The whole place is so romantic that I really should have predicted what was coming next. It turns out, you see, that there are three, not two, things that you shouldn't trust in Mauritius once you've got the measure of the rum and the weather. • 20 of the best hotels in Mauritius for 2025 On one of our final mornings, Tom gets up at sunrise, lies about a headache and supposedly goes for a wander in search of some paracetamol. Half an hour later, when he still hasn't returned, I head outside worried that I'll find him passed out by the pool. Instead there's a proposal waiting for me, written in frangipani flowers on the beach. I say yes, but only on the condition that we can come back to this magical island one day. After all, someone needs to test whether the rum is as strong as they say. This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue Lucy Perrin was a guest of Shangri-La Le Touessrok, which has five nights' B&B from £1,800pp ( and the Mauritius Tourism Protection Authority ( Fly to Mauritius By Siobhan Grogan Foodies will be spoilt for choice at this hotel, which spans two bays on the north coast. There are six places to eat, including a gourmet burger shack under a banyan tree, a Creole smokehouse and restaurants specialising in Peruvian and Turkish food. There's also a coffee shop blending island-roasted beans, a G&T bar and an artisanal ice-cream cart. There are family-friendly activities galore including a cinema and kids' club but also an adults-only wing with its own peaceful pool and private lagoon. A mix of suites and villas are designed by Kelly Hoppen and have a breezy beach-house feel, in sandy browns and soothing Seven nights' B&B from £1,570pp, including flights and coach transfers Just next to the beautiful Anse La Raie Beach on the north coast, this adults-only hotel has glamorous white interiors with rattan furniture, feature walls with botanical wallpaper and voile-draped four-poster beds. There are four restaurants to choose from including the Cove, which is tucked among coconut trees and serves a five-course vegan tasting menu developed by the acclaimed chef Alexis Gauthier. There's also an inventive array of activities including archery classes, art therapy sessions, t'ai chi and stargazing, while the hotel's catamaran can be hired for days at sea. A Cinq Mondes spa has a hammam and a double massage hut overlooking the Seven nights' half-board from £2,158pp, including flights Sunset views are a given in this tranquil all-villa resort on Wolmar Beach on the island's west coast. There are 65 large villas scattered throughout 27 acres of blooming tropical gardens with a 750m stretch of sandy beach beyond. Completely renovated in 2023, the villas have private heated pools, alfresco lounge areas with daybeds, walk-in wardrobes and deep-soaking tubs in cream marble bathrooms. Each one comes with butler service, while optional activities include Mauritian cooking classes, watersports, wine tastings or island tours in the hotel's chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce Phantom. There are also four restaurants including a Japanese and a beach club for toes-in-the-sand Seven nights' B&B from £2,531pp, including flights ( • Maradiva Villas, Resort & Spa, Mauritius review: a standout five-star resort on the beach

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