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Albania Town Where Everything's Coming Up Roses
Albania Town Where Everything's Coming Up Roses

Asharq Al-Awsat

time5 days ago

  • Business
  • Asharq Al-Awsat

Albania Town Where Everything's Coming Up Roses

In Permet, deep in the spectacular Vjosa Valley of southern Albania, roses rule supreme, whether used to make perfumes, flavored water or the Turkish delights sought out by thousands of sweet-toothed tourists. "Here everything revolves around roses, from cooking with them to their medicinal virtues" -- everything is seen through rose-tinted glasses, joked biology teacher Ariana Nikolla. Since she was little, the 57-year-old has been delicately picking the petals of her favorite variety, "the Groom's Rose", named for its delicate scent, AFP said. In Permet roses are a ritual -- the first gift to a would-be lover. And they have to be pink, symbolizing love and fidelity. Every family cultivates dozens of rose varieties in their garden, including the highly perfumed Damask and Provence roses, making the town famous across the Balkans for its artisanal rose water. Yet it is almost impossible to buy -- it is just too valuable, say locals, who gift a few drops from time to time and jealously guard their reserves. 'Rose water is like love' "Rose water is like love, it must be carefully tended," said veteran maker Resmie Tuci. "The process of making high-quality rose water is difficult and meticulous. It requires very particular copper containers and you also have to use the right roses and select the ones with the most fragrant petals," said the 70-year-old. The traditional method, passed from one generation to the next, is listed in Albania's national inventory of intangible cultural heritage. First you stretch a cloth over a copper bowl laced with thread, itself placed inside a large, flat-bottomed basin filled with water. Then the hand-picked rose petals are carefully placed on the cloth and covered with a flat stone topped with hot ashes from a fire. The petals sweat underneath and yield up their precious rose water through condensation. "It's a process that takes hours," Tuci told AFP. "But every drop is precious," chimes in Nikolla, filling a small bottle with rose water, which she will put in a sunny spot for several weeks before it is ready. "It's as precious as gold," she added. - Sweet delights - Locals use it for its supposed benefits, from soothing irritated eyes to an anti-inflammatory cream to help calm itching. And, of course, in cooking. Eftali Qerimi, 63, swears by it. The almond rose water cakes she bakes in her workshop are unlike any other local "llokums". Made with only almond powder, sugar and rosewater, the rose-shaped fancies mark important events for families in the region. Considered lucky charms, they are served at birthdays, weddings and baby showers. With the women in her workshop, Qerimi produces up to 10 kilos of Turkish delights a day, which she sells at 50 euros a kilo. Occasionally she makes small ones shaped like baby feet -- a way, according to tradition, to wish newborns a long life. Between batches, the women make rose petal jam, its fragrance filling the workshop. "The rose is everything for us; it symbolizes the heart, love and life's happiness," said Qerimi, who is hard at work with the tourism high season about to begin. "Tourists flock to the town and after the natural beauties" of the valley, with its famous gorges and natural park, "they also want to taste its culinary delights", she smiled.

Climate change adds to Syria'a problems as Damask rose harvests fade
Climate change adds to Syria'a problems as Damask rose harvests fade

Irish Times

time7 days ago

  • Business
  • Irish Times

Climate change adds to Syria'a problems as Damask rose harvests fade

Sitting in his front sittingroom, surrounded by embroidery, painted plates and ceramics decorated with pink Damask roses, Amin Hamza al-Bettar reflects on the harvest season, which has just finished: 'extremely, extremely bad'; 'extraordinary ... like a desert'. The Damask rose harvester, who turns 90 this year, says the season was both 'short and late'. In 2024, his family business harvested 4,000kg of roses on their 180 acres of land, while this year it was 300kg, he says. While the season should begin on May 5th, and last between 25 days and a month, this year it lasted 10 days, and began on May 15th. Bettar's village, Qaldoun Al Marah in Syria , is famous for its rose industry. In 2019, the village's 'practices and craftsmanship associated with the Damascene rose' were inscribed on Unesco's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The accompanying notes suggested it could be seen as 'a tool for sustainable development and ... contribute to building a harmonious relationship between human beings and nature'. Bettar's four sons work for the family company, along with one other employee. From a distillery in his home, they create rose water and extract essence that they sell for $60 (€53) per gram – it takes 8,000kg of roses to extract 1kg. The essence is used in cosmetics and perfume. Bettar is proud of the fact that they use no chemicals in their says their machines are 'primitive, old style': the 'process is all natural'. READ MORE But now their business is a victim of the drought and climate change affecting much of Syria. While Bettar says he has seen individual years as dry as this before, the prolonged nature of the drought, combined with the dryness of surrounding years, is unheard of and the overall situation has been noticeably deteriorating since 2000. Amin Hamza al Bettar (89) says rose season this year was "extremely" bad. Photograph: Sally Hayden The usual snow and rainwater that reaches the village meant the 'plants used to grow themselves', says Bettar. But 'this year it only rained a few times, 5ml, then 10 days without rain'. The water that falls 'evaporates immediately, it doesn't penetrate the soil'. A 2023 study by the World Weather Attribution academic collaboration found that the probability of droughts in Syria and neighbouring Iraq has increased from a one-in-250-year event to a one-in-10-year event, with the current estimated human-induced warming of 1.2 degrees. This could move to a one-in-five-year event if global warming increases by another 0.8 degrees, the study said. The combination of climate change and badly damaged infrastructure is calamitous. By 2022, Unicef said the nearly 14-year-long war and economic crisis in Syria had led to the large-scale destruction of water and sanitation infrastructure across the country, with an estimated one third of treatment plants and water towers, one sixth of wells, and half of pumping stations in Syria damaged. Just over 70km by car from Qaldoun Al Marah is the Ein el Fijeh spring. It feeds the Barada river and is supposed to provide more than a million homes in Damascus and its suburbs with water, but it is almost dry. Ahmad Darwish, head of the Damascus City Water Supply Authority, told the Associated Press that this year had the lowest rainfall since 1956. When The Irish Times visited the spring in late May, employees said the lack of rain and snow were hugely concerning, but also that bombing of the spring's surroundings during the war and the devastating 2023 earthquake had badly damaged the area, compounding the situation. Syrians prepare to irrigate roses in Qaldoun Al Marah. Photograph: Sally Hayden The shifting climate means Damask rose farmers are taking measures they never needed before. On his land on the outskirts of Qaldoun Al Marah, Mohammed Abdo Abbas (64) wears a keffiyeh on his head to protect himself from the baking sun. He watches as another man pulls a tank on a tractor, watering each rose bush in turn with a hose. Abbas says he pays 250,000 Syrian pounds (€25) a day for fuel and workers to transport the water from wells to irrigate his land. 'We are only irrigating because of the lack of rain, normally we don't do it,' he says. If Abbas didn't own the tractor himself, the cost would not be worth the return. Locals used to make big purchases during harvest season because they had an influx of cash, Abbas recalls. Rose growing 'was my ancestors', and my parents', and my job, but this year we have less than 25 per cent of the normal season', he says. 'We don't blame anyone, not the government, it's climate change. The issue is these roses, they need snow. If it doesn't snow the season is not good.' He says snow used to reach three metres high in winter but 'we haven't seen snow in five years, despite this being a mountain area'. Snow and lower temperatures keep insects under control, but now they are proliferating. Hundreds of years ago, Lebanese traders used to arrive to buy the roses on mules, exporting them through France. 'All the village used to do this because it was very beneficial business,' says Abbas. Graffiti on the wall of a distillery in Qaldoun Al Marah. Photograph: Sally Hayden With international sanctions on Syria largely lifting following the fall of Bashar al-Assad's regime last December , Syrian businesspeople are enthused at the prospect of trading internationally. Damask rose growers say their industry could help Syria recover and develop. 'For us this is our goal, our purpose to export our products to Europe and all over the world,' says al Bettar. When Bettar was young, he was told that Sufi clerics used to go to the mountains to pray for rain. Now, with no obvious remedy for the climate, he worries people 'will become poor and look for something else. We don't want the farmers to look for something else because they will abandon this profession.' Villagers have started to leave Qaldoun Al Marah for Syria's big cities, or launch other businesses, because it has become so much harder to farm roses, says al Bettar, who serves visitors pink rose water in glasses to drink. He says it would help farmers if the state 'helped us dig more wells and made it easier for us to access water, started to irrigate regularly in a very scientific way'. He believes many tourists would be interested in visiting, as they did before the revolution in 2011 and subsequent war. Amin Hamza al Bettar in the distillery inside his home in Qaldoun Al Marah, Syria. Photograph: Sally Hayden The village received support under the former Syrian regime, with al Bettar saying Asma al-Assad, Bashar's wife, had been appreciative of their efforts. The new authorities have shown interest too, al Bettar says. Recently, the new director of the agricultural sector for their area came to fix a pump in the village, though farmers still struggle getting the water from it to the rose bushes. And Abbas says the future is unpredictable, because drought is changing the natural environment completely. 'Rose plants should live 60 years but now [they last] 25 years because of the harsh weather,' he says. 'Our country, our region has been famous for these plants for thousands of years ... This is the source of our life here ... It's survival for us.' – Hani Alagbar assisted with this reporting. The Damask rose harvest has shrunk as a result of drought-related climate change. Photograph: Sally Hayden

60th International Rose Festival in Morocco celebrates Damask rose, lifeblood of a town
60th International Rose Festival in Morocco celebrates Damask rose, lifeblood of a town

South China Morning Post

time20-05-2025

  • Climate
  • South China Morning Post

60th International Rose Festival in Morocco celebrates Damask rose, lifeblood of a town

Gloved and armed with shears, women weave through thorny brambles, clipping and tossing their harvest into wheelbarrows. 'Thank God for the rain,' said rose picker Fatima El Alami. 'There are roses elsewhere, but there's nowhere like here.' She is right. Mild temperatures, steady sunlight and low humidity make the fields around Kalaat M'Gouna a perfect cradle for growing its signature flower: the Damask rose. Abundant precipitation and several desert downpours this year have bestowed Morocco with an exceptional yield of the flower, used for rosewater and rose oil Harvested roses before they are boiled to produce rose products in Kalaat M'Gouna, Morocco. Photo: AP Workers at a women's cooperative that produces rose-based products sort harvested roses. Photo: AP Pink and pungent, the roses are set to come in at 4,800 tonnes this year, a bloom far beyond the 2020-2023 average, according to the Regional Office for Agricultural Development, in nearby Ouarzazate.

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