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The Guardian

How to make potato salad – recipe

This summer classic is the happy proof that not all things labelled as salad have to feel like penance for helping yourself to all the fried chicken or barbecued halloumi. Far fresher and zingier than gloopy, ready-made versions, this is the perfect recipe to make the most of those dense, fudgy early potatoes, and easy to customise according to taste and circumstance. Prep 15 min Cook 15-20 min Serves 4 600g waxy potatoes Salt ½ tsp dijon mustard 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar 2 tbsp neutral oil, such as sunflower1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 115g good mayonnaise, ordinary or plant-based (see step 6 for a homemade option)3 spring onions 2 tbsp capers and/or chopped gherkins 2 anchovies (optional)1 small bunch chives 1 handful fresh parsley, leaves and soft stems 1 handful fresh mint leaves1 tbsp wholegrain mustard Potato salad demands a waxy variety, and preferably ones that are new enough that their skins are still flaky and thin, rather than spuds that have been in cold storage for months. Jersey royals are my favourite, but other good (and widely available) options include celandine, ratte, arran, pink fir apple and vivaldi, though farm shops may have even better options on offer. Choose potatoes that are fairly even in size, and preferably small enough easily to boil whole; you may need to cut any larger ones in half to ensure they all cook through in roughly the same time, but try to minimise this, because potatoes cooked whole in their skins will have a better texture. Give the potatoes a good wash; true new potatoes should still have some dirt clinging to their frail skins, but don't bother to peel them any more than necessary, because those skins hold much of the flavour, and also protect the potato flesh from the hot water. Put the spuds in a pan just large enough to hold them all comfortably. Add enough cold water just to cover, then salt very generously (don't worry, because most of it will go down the drain after cooking). Cover and bring to a boil, then uncover, turn down the heat and simmer until just cooked through (test the largest potato with a fork or skewer to check). This method takes longer than dropping them in boiling water, but it means that the outsides won't overcook. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the mustard (any variety will do here, but I like the tanginess of dijon), vinegar (cider or white-wine would work, as would lemon juice) and a pinch of salt until smooth, then gradually whisk in the oils – if you prefer your dressing to have a lighter or stronger flavour, feel free to use neutral or olive oil alone, respectively. Drain the potatoes, put them back in the hot pan to steam dry, then cut in half or quarters. Toss with the vinaigrette and leave to cool. For a quick mayonnaise, in a container that's just wider than the head of your stick blender, whizz an egg – or, for a plant-based alternative, four tablespoons of aquafaba and 10 chickpeas – with a tablespoon of mustard and a teaspoon of vinegar or lemon juice. Pour 225ml neutral oil and 25ml extra-virgin olive oil on top of the egg or chickpea mixture, then put the stick blender on the base of the container and whizz at high speed until you see white clouds billow up from underneath. At this point, lift the still whizzing blender head very slowly, and mix until all the oil is combined. Season to taste. Trim the whiskery bases and dry tops off the spring onions, then finely slice the rest, both white and green parts. Roughly chop the capers and/or gherkins and the herbs, keeping a pinch of chives back as garnish later. Stir the caper mix and wholegrain mustard into 115g of the mayonnaise until well combined, then season to taste. Before serving, drain off any excess vinaigrette from the cooled potatoes (save and reuse it on a plate of tomatoes or a green salad), then mix the potatoes with just enough mayonnaise to coat. Spoon into a serving dish and garnish with the reserved chopped chives. If making the salad in advance, I'd suggest storing the potatoes in the vinaigrette mix, then draining and combining with the mayonnaise just before serving.