Latest news with #washoku
Japan Times
18-05-2025
- Business
- Japan Times
Japan working to improve treatment of 'culinary diplomats' in diplomatic missions
The Foreign Ministry is working to improve the treatment of chefs at Japanese diplomatic missions around the world, who serve as the nation's "culinary diplomats." In light of labor shortages in recent years, the ministry will increase pay for such chefs by about 1.5 times. It will also shift away from the "outdated" practice of heads of diplomatic missions, including ambassadors, concluding private employment contracts with chefs. In July, the ministry will start accepting applications for these chef positions under improved working conditions, with the improved treatment set to take effect next January. There are over 200 Japanese diplomatic missions, including embassies and consulates-general, around the world. Chefs at these establishments are responsible for creating menus, procuring ingredients and preparing dishes for dinners and receptions hosted by heads of the establishments to entertain foreign dignitaries. The Japanese government considers washoku Japanese cuisine as part of the country's "soft power," and these chefs are expected to play a key role in this context. "The best thing about my job is that I get to make full use of my knowledge and experience in an inconvenient environment," said Muneyuki Izawa, the 56-year-old chef at the Japanese ambassador's official residence in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. "I hope (people) try their hand" at being culinary diplomats, he added. In recent years, Japan has been facing difficulties hiring chefs for its diplomatic missions overseas. More than 10 Japanese Embassies currently lack chefs, according to the ministry. The absence of chefs "could affect our ability to attract guests for parties and compete with other countries," a former ambassador said. In a survey of chefs at diplomatic establishments and people who had declined offers to become such chefs, some complained about unstable working conditions, including the need to negotiate pay. "I was fed up with dealing with the ambassador," a former chef said. Also behind the shortage of applicants for chef positions at diplomatic establishments is the current washoku boom overseas, which makes it even more difficult to hire Japanese chefs. To improve the situation, the ministry has decided to set the term of chefs at two years in principle to support their career development. It will also allow chefs to conclude contracts with diplomatic missions. The ministry will also improve allowances for chefs, including creating spousal allowances. Chefs' annual pay is expected to total at least ¥6 million. Furthermore, chefs will be allowed to live in private rental homes while receiving new residential allowances. Until now, they have been required in principle to live in the official residences of heads of diplomatic missions. At a news conference on Tuesday, Foreign Minister Takeshi Iwaya said, "We hope to recruit talented chefs to further strengthen Japan's diplomatic foundation."
Japan Times
18-05-2025
- General
- Japan Times
Flaunt your seasonal greens with Japan's traditional pureed soup
On Japanese menus, pureed soups called surinagashi-jiru (literally, 'grind, pour, broth') are a great way to showcase seasonal produce. In May, that means tender, verdant peas will be what gives these soups their flavor. In keeping with the washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) tenet of using ingredients fully — even the pods that are often discarded after shelling will be used to enhance the taste of the dashi stock. Since surinagashi soups highlight seasonal bounty, additional flavoring is usually kept to a minimum. With the recipe below, for instance, just a touch of sweet white miso mixed with soy milk is enough. However, many soups are finished with an aromatic or spicy garnish — scallions or chives, in this case. Depending on the weather and your mood, the soup can be served either piping hot or chilled. In the old-fashioned Japanese kitchen, making surinagashi required several different tools to grind and mash any steamed or lightly boiled vegetables. A grooved mortar called a suribachi — literally, a 'grinding bowl' — was (and still is in many kitchens) used to produce such mash, with dashi added to the suribachi afterward to help flush any bits of vegetable stuck in the grooves. A fine-meshed sieve called an uragoshi can be used instead of or alongside a suribachi, to produce a smoother, pulpier texture. While you can use an old-fashioned grooved mortar to grind your peas, a blender or food processor would more than suffice. | ELIZABETH ANDOH In the modern kitchen, though, a blender or food processor easily pulse-processes vegetables to your desired degree of smoothness. Shopping tips At my local supermarket, I found three varieties of endō mame (peas in their pods): gurīn pīzu (green peas), satō endō (sweet peas) and sunappu endō (snap peas). While similar in appearance and flavor, green peas are typically shelled, and the pods aren't eaten. Sweet and snap peas, with their tender pods and higher sugar content, can be steamed or blanched and eaten whole. For this recipe, I used a mix of all three. Pick up a few varieties of peas in their pods from your supermarket, such as sweet peas (pictured), snap peas and green peas. | ELIZABETH ANDOH Other vegetables like corn (use the husks, silk and cob for stock), carrots (use the peels and tops) and broccoli (tough stems and cores) also work well in surinagashi-style soups. Use this recipe as a template. For a heartier presentation, place a block of tofu in a shallow bowl and pour the soup around it. Garnish with finely shredded fresh shiso. Any type of kombu can be used for stock, but high-glutamate varieties yield more intense broths. Glutamic acid (glutamate) is found in most foods and is especially concentrated in protein-rich items such as meat, fish, mushrooms and sea vegetables like kombu. Many kombu types are harvested around Hokkaido, and their names reflect their origins: Hidaka (Laminaria angustata), Rishiri (Laminaria ochotensis), Rausu (Laminaria diabolica). The exception is ma kombu (Laminaria ochotensis), where the 'ma' means 'true' or 'genuine.' Surinagashi-jiru pureed soup Serves 4 450 grams fresh green peas in their pods 5-centimeter-long piece of kombu 500 milliliters tap water 3-5 grams katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) 50 milliliters of soy milk 1 teaspoon shiro (white) miso (preferably Kyoto-style saikyō shiro miso) Pinch of salt, optional Garnish: 1 bannō negi (green onion shoots) 3 to 4 asatsuki (chives) Shell the peas and set them aside. Place the pods in a 2- or 3-liter pot with the kombu and water. Let the kombu soak for five minutes before setting the pot over low heat. Gradually bring the water to a simmer — this slow method draws out the flavors from the kombu and pods. To help gauge the temperature, watch for small bubbles forming on the bottom of the pot, which indicates it's at about 65 degrees Celsius. When the bubbles begin to rise and break on the surface, the temperature is closer to 70 C. That 65-70 C range is ideal for extracting glutamic acid — the umami component — from kombu. Avoid exceeding 75 C, which is when bitter tannins are released and the broth becomes murky. Simmer for seven to eight minutes at around 65 C, then remove from heat. Add the "katsuobushi" (dried bonito flakes) to your pea stock, and let the flakes steep for 5 to 6 minutes before straining the stock. | ELIZABETH ANDOH Remove the pot from your stove and add the katsuobushi flakes but do not stir. Instead, let them steep for five or six minutes, then strain the stock through a cloth-lined strainer. Discard the solids — pea pods, spent kombu and katsuobushi flakes — you should be left with about 450 milliliters of golden-hued, slightly smoky stock, fragrant with fresh peas. Wipe the pot with a paper towel to remove any residue that might be clinging to the sides before returning the strained stock to it. There's no need to wash the pot; any residual essences will boost the flavor of the final soup. Add the shelled peas to the pot and cook them for one minute after small bubbles appear. Remove the pot from the stove and let the residual heat continue to cook the peas. While the peas cool slightly, finely mince the green onion or chives for garnish. If a slippery substance appears, don't worry — that's allicin, the enzyme responsible for the onion-y aroma. It will help thicken the soup and keep it from separating. Set aside the garnish. Once the peas are simmered, transfer them to a blender with a slotted spoon. | ELIZABETH ANDOH Use a slotted spoon to transfer the simmered peas to a blender or food processor. Add just enough stock to cover the peas and pulse until evenly crushed. Add more stock as needed to keep the blades engaged and achieve a soup-like consistency for the puree. Blending well after each addition. In a small bowl, combine the miso and soy milk, then add the mixture to the blender or food processor. Continue to pulse until well incorporated, scraping down the sides as needed. Taste and adjust seasoning with a pinch of salt, if necessary — miso sweetness can vary significantly by brand. To accentuate the bright green hue of your pureed soup, serve it in a white bowl. | ELIZABETH ANDOH The soup can be served hot or chilled. If warming, heat gently before dividing among bowls. Garnish each portion with the minced green onion or chives.
