Why you should follow Kate and William to the Scottish island of Mull

Telegraph

23-04-2025

It's no surprise that the Prince and Princess of Wales chose to spend their 14th wedding anniversary in Scotland. They met at university in St Andrews – the town named after the county's patron saint – and their burning love of Scotland is clear; a passion that runs deep in British Royal blood. So deep that in Scotland we've even bestowed William and Catherine their own distinct title: the Duke and Duchess of Rothesay.
But why Mull? Again the heritage surges strong as the Royal Family spent many a happy summer cruising the mesmerising Hebrides on the Royal Yacht Britannia. When Britannia was retired in 1997 the late Queen Elizabeth chartered Scotland's finest luxury heritage cruise ship, the Hebridean Princess, to continue the Hebridean adventures in 2006 and again in 2010.
Scotland's fourth largest island is a less showy – and less campervan-infested – Skye, a large Inner Hebridean isle more than double the size of the Isle of Wight, but with just a fraction of the population. There are only 3,000 human inhabitants. Much of this deeply dramatic island remains gloriously wild. Here on the edge of the Atlantic vastness, man plays demonstrably second fiddle to nature, but enjoys her bounty with fine produce and epic wildlife viewing.
I've travelled all over Mull over three decades and it's an isle – if you choose to follow in the Royal footsteps – where you will encounter infinite richness, whether you hike Scotland's toughest island route across its roughest terrain, or tackle the only island Munro outside Skye, head out in search of encounters with our marine mammal cousins, or just enjoy the artisan shops of Tobermory. And then there's the famous whisky, Caribbean-esque beaches that dazzle in the sun and spirit-soaring sunsets to melt a monarch's heart.
Here are five reasons that you too should choose Mull:
1. Scenery fit for a Hollywood movie
Mull is the Scotland of Hollywood movies: hulking Highland massifs soar like leviathans from the Atlantic, nature only pausing her ruggedness to sprinkle white sands along stretches of the coast that Skye can only dream of. There are rich and vibrant ancient woodlands too, which made it into a Royal itinerary strong on appreciation both of the natural world and our place alongside it.
Whether it's your first or 50th time on Mull, count on losing whole tracts of time just standing around staring in awe. If you do just want to take stock and drink in the views, stay at the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa and enjoy the grandeur from an outdoor hot tub.
2. World-class wildlife
Home to four of Scotland's Big Five (Arran remains the only isle with the lot, as it has red squirrels too), Mull is a David Attenborough documentary playing in high definition all around you. I've even seen otters as I arrived on the ferry and too many eagles – both golden eagles and sea eagles – to count; the same goes for red deer on an island where they easily outnumber people. Nature Scotland runs excellent guided wildlife tours.
Mull is also Scotland's cetacean fulcrum. Sea Life Mull pioneered whale watching in the UK as far back as 1982. On your boat trip you can encounter everything from porpoises and all manner of dolphin, through to minke and humpback whales; even orcas patrol these nutrient-rich waters.
3. A treasure trove of bountiful produce
Skye boasts fancy Michelin restaurants; Mull is content to offer up great value, immaculately sourced local produce served with no fuss. Seafood that makes Brittany seem second rate is the star. One of my favourite foodie memories anywhere is cooking up a massive £6 sack of mussels fresh from Loch Spelve at Tobermory Youth Hostel for a dozen good pals. At the aforementioned Isle of Mull Hotel, tuck into boat-fresh king scallops followed by equally fresh white fish. Restaurants like Café Fish are on first-name terms with their suppliers – you won't forget gorging on a seafood platter as the gulls swoop above and the Atlantic salt fills the air.
Just along the road Mishdish at the Mishnish dishes up superb seafood too, with the eponymous pub a shock if you've never heard two bands play simultaneously in the same venue. Legendary, deservedly so. As is Tobermory Distillery, which conjures up delicious sweet and peaty single malt whiskies; excellent gin too.
4. Outdoor adventure
Mull offers myriad adventures. The well-equipped and experienced can tackle mighty Ben More, at 3,852ft (1,174m) the only island Munro outside Skye. My favourite hill is Dun da Ghaoithe, which towers 2,513ft (766m) over the ferry port of Craignure and is still a fair old challenge you must be prepared for.
You can see swathes of isles and Ben Nevis from here on a decent day. I once spent a week tackling the Mull section of the seriously rough Stevenson Way wilderness hike, if you crave a serious challenge. In the water there is surfing, windsurfing, stand-up paddleboarding and sea kayaking. Superb wild swimming spots abound too, though on straight-talking Mull they just call it swimming.
5. The bonniest village in the Hebrides
Tobermory trumps Skye again – and arguably any other of Scotland's nigh 100 inhabited islands – for the honour of the prettiest island village. Tobermory is a pastel-hued beauty that strides from postcards looking like it has been touched up by AI. This was the memorable setting for children's BBC television series Balamory, which is currently slated for a reboot.
Ease along the waterfront nosing into the wee shops and cafes. If you get hungry, a trailer by the pier serves king scallop suppers. It's worth getting up for sunrise and planning to linger here for sunset too; this is when you'll get the best photos of the sun glinting off Tobermory's shortbread tin-pretty main street.