I've answered your travel questions for 15 years. Times have changed

The Age

6 days ago

For a decade and a half reader emails to Ask the Tripologist have charted the changing tastes, the concerns and the ups and downs of the destinations we love to visit.
Since it began, 15 years ago, the Tripologist has received more questions about Italy than any other country, but who would have predicted that Iceland would become a hot favourite?
Spain endured a moment in the sun but then along came Portugal, and right now, Malta is running hot while Albania is experiencing a flicker of interest.
Some issues continue to rankle. Travel insurance, visas, international driving permits, SIM cards and now eSIMs are regular sources of irritation, and incomprehension.
Our travels are influenced by what we watch, and Hawaii, Sicily and Thailand have each seen a wave of questions resulting from successive series of HBO's The White Lotus.
I owe a huge debt of gratitude to all our Traveller readers who have posed travel-related questions to me over the years, with the Ask the Tripologist column in Traveller spinning off into a companion column and regular appearances by yours truly online.
To mark this 15th anniversary of Ask the Tripologist, we're looking back through the years with a sample of questions – beginning with the actual first one received – that have been asked, year by year, except for 2021 when the Tripologist, like almost everyone else, entered a pandemic-triggered hibernation.
2010
Q: Where is the best place to sit on a long-haul flight such as on 747? Especially if you are tall
My answer then
Log onto SeatGuru, key in your airline and flight number and the server comes back with an overview of the aircraft you'll be flying, with premium real estate colour-coded. Regardless of airline or aircraft type, in economy the seat you want is in the exit row, which offers valuable extra legroom. Several airlines allow you to pre-book exit-row seating for a modest surcharge, and it's well worth it.
What I'd say now
Seat selection is an important source of revenue for airlines, and it's easy to find seats with extra legroom provided you're prepared to pay. Prime spots for tall flyers are those behind the bulkhead and in exit rows. If you're flying aboard a 747, enjoy the experience, it's a dying breed. (And, sadly, SeatGuru, though still live, hasn't been updated since 2020)
2011
Q: We're planning a 10-month 'Gap' year next year with our children aged 11 and eight, seeing some of the Baltic States plus Italy, Greece. France and Spain. Would it be better to buy a campervan in the UK or rent?
What I said then
There are several UK websites specialising in second-hand campervans including but if you were to hire from continental Europe, for example Holland, a campervan is going to cost you about €100 (about $130 at that time) a day for a long-term hire. Buy a campervan and sell it at the end of your gap year, you will almost certainly come out on top. Australian passport holders can stay for 90 days without a visa in countries that are party to the Schengen Convention, which covers most of continental Europe. Neither the Baltic States nor the UK fall within the Schengen area.
What I'd say now
This question reminds me of just how much the world has changed in the last 14 years. The Schengen Area has expanded over the past 14 years, and its rules make it difficult to stay in most European countries for more than 90 days in any 180-day period. A handful of countries are outside the Schengen Area, including Albania, Ireland, Montenegro and the UK. You could spend 90 days exploring Schengen Area countries, followed by 90 days in those countries outside and re-enter the area at the end of that period. Read more on that here.
2012
Q: My husband and I are going on an April cruise ending in Tokyo, after a day berthed in Osaka when we will probably visit Kyoto. We would like to spend up to a week in Japan. Should we see Mount Fuji?
What I said then
Kyoto is a highlight of any trip to Japan, and it deserves more time than the one-day visit that your cruise will allow. Three nights would give you time to explore the temples and gardens and the old Gion district of the city. You could take in Mount Fuji on the way. The classic postcard view of the mountain is from the Fuji Five Lakes, which are on the north side of the mountain, accessed via Fujiyoshida city. Your visit coincides with cherry blossom time. The timing varies with latitude and altitude, but generally, late April to early May is prime.
What I'd say now
Hard to believe as it is now but 13 years ago, only a relatively small number of Australians visited Japan with questions to the Tripologist were scarce, and this was one of the first. Nowadays, I'd recommend staying a few days in Takayama, in Japan's alpine region. It's a small, provincial city where the narrow streets of its historic district are lined with merchants' houses dating to the Edo Period, testament to the skill of Japanese timber craftsmanship.
2013
Q: We arrive in Iceland in January. For the first week we will be with friends, then our son and his partner arrive. Can you suggest two one-week itineraries? Thoughts on car-hire in winter?
What I said then
Although January is the depths of winter, the Gulf Stream keeps temperatures around the coast relatively warm, between -2° degrees and 2° degrees. The highlands of the interior experience much colder temperatures. The lack of daylight is problematic. In January, Iceland gets an average of 5½ hours of daylight. On the upside, your chances of seeing the Northern Lights are relatively high. Since you have plenty of time, you could spend the first couple of days in the capital, Reykjavík, then explore more widely. Hiring a vehicle is feasible in winter, but you should go with a four-wheel drive.
What I'd say now
You could drive Iceland's entire Ring Road in January, but you would need at least 10 days. Otherwise, focus on the south coast, to include the Golden Circle of Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir, Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls and the Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon glacial areas.
2014
Q: My wife and I want to spend about a week on Lake Como in June, experiencing village life, fresh food markets and restaurants. What towns would work best, and how do we find quality apartments on the water?
What I said then
My pick of the lakeside village is Tremezzina, on the western shore where the three legs of the lake meet. Within walking distance you have the stunning gardens at Villa Carlotta and a five-minute ferry ride delivers you to the swanky and glorious lakeside villages of Bellagio and Varenna and the enchanting Villa del Balbianello. Tremezzina is big enough to have a choice of dining, high end to pizzas. Apartments are available through Bella Como, a rental agency that does nothing but rent villas and apartments around Lake Como.
What I'd say now
It's not hard to fall for Italy's Lake Como, and questions about where to stay around the lake make a regular appearance in the Tripologist's inbox. Bella Como no longer exists, for an upmarket stay check The Plum Guide.
2015
Q: I'd like to take my 15-year-old son for a holiday in New York City in 2015, we were thinking to stay close to Times Square and would like to know some not so obvious must-see experiences.
What I said then
Manhattan is the place to stay, but Times Square is crowded, and not representative of this astonishing city. My choice would be somewhere south of the Flatiron District, with Union Square, the East Village, Greenwich Village, Little Italy, Nolita. Soho and Tribeca all as potential candidates. If you don't mind a squeezy room, an all-time bargain is The Jane, with room rates from $US99. A more upmarket choice is the Ace Hotel, a hipster hangout at the heart of Little Korea.
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As for secret treasures, my list includes The Frick Collection, a lox bagel at Zabar's, the Statue of Liberty from Battery Park, the Top of the Rock in Rockefeller Centre, Eataly, a stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge, a troll through Tiffany & Co and Barneys, the public lectures put on by The Explorers Club and a walk along the High Line.
What I'd say now
Questions on New York City are meat for the Tripologist's table, but how prices have shot up in the last decade. To the list of off-track wonders, I'd add Fanelli Cafe, a ride on the NYC Ferry, the Cloisters, Fort Tryon Park and the street art zone in Bushwick. Barney's closed in 2020.
2016
Q: With my husband and another couple, we're looking at two weeks in Sicily in August, staying in villas with day trips. Where do you suggest, and which cities to visit?
What I said then
Two weeks is ideal for Sicily, but August is scorchingly hot and busy. Leave your visit to mid-September, and you'll have a quieter, cooler Sicily. You need a car, start with Palermo and don't miss the city's markets, its churches, the wonderful art gallery and archaeological museum. Just outside Palermo is the stupendous 12th-century Norman cathedral of Monreale. Next, the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, an outstanding example of ancient Greek architecture. From there continue to the south-east of Sicily, with a base for easy visits to Ragusa, Syracuse, Modica and Noto. Follow with a few days in the north-east in Taormina and possibly a trip up Etna if you're feeling adventurous. In two weeks you could also explore the Aeolian Islands. Stay in Lipari, with day trips to Vulcano and the amazing volcanic hump of Stromboli. See Sawdays to help choose your villas, or Airbnb.
What I'd say now
Despite our fascination with Italy, Australian travellers have been slow to discover the south of the country. This was one of the first letters to the Tripologist asking about Sicily. Today, stay in Ortigia, a subset of Syracuse, it's a picture-perfect Baroque city threaded with narrow laneways and garlanded by the sea.
2017
Q: What's the best route from Melbourne to the Flinders Ranges and is my Honda 2WD HRV capable? Where can we book a scenic flight over Lake Eyre?
What I said then
One route is via Ballarat and the Western Highway to Adelaide then north via Clare, Orroroo, Cradock and Hawker. The other is via Bendigo, Mildura and Renmark. Time and distance are very similar, and going by one and returning by the other would be my choice. A Honda HRV is more than adequate, even for the rocky roads you'll be encountering in the Flinders Ranges. One place to include is the Prairie Hotel at Parachilna, it's an outback classic with great character and excellent food, and the accommodation is some of the best in the Flinders. From the hotel you can organise a scenic flight over Lake Eyre with Ian Fargher of Fargher Air.
What I'd say now
Perhaps because it's familiar territory for readers, the Tripologist doesn't receive many questions about travel in Australia. But the Flinders Ranges rate among my top five Australian wonders. Today I'd recommend a stay at Discovery Parks Wilpena Pound and walk into the pound.
2018
Q: We are planning to go to South Island of New Zealand. Can you recommend some railway journeys?
What I said then
The South Island has an all-time classic rail journey in the TranzAlpine Express, which travels from Christchurch across the Southern Alps to Greymouth on the west coast. You'll get an allocated seat, and what you want is a window seat on the right side for the five-hour journey. For the first hour the train idles across the sheep-strewn pastures of the Canterbury Plains before galloping into the ramparts of the Southern Alps.
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For the next three hours, the landscape looks like it's taken performance-enhancing drugs as the train snakes through the mountains, riding high above glacier-stoked rivers into beech forests and grey peaks covered with snow for all but the summer months. The journey ends at Greymouth, where you could slip behind the wheel of a hire-car and drive south along the Glacier Highway toward Fox and Franz Josef glaciers.
What I'd say now
Along with the TranzAlpine, the Coastal Pacific train from Picton to Christchurch is another cracker of a ride.
2019
Q: Three girls, mainly in their very late 50s, in Paris for several days are looking for a few financially friendly, off-the-beaten-track things to see and do.
What I said then
I like to take a few half-day walking tours when I get to a new city. Take a look at the withlocals or GuruWalk websites. Leave time to wander around, Paris is made for dawdlers. The banks of the Seine, the Marais, the Left Bank, Rue Mouffetard and the Luxembourg Gardens are perfect for idle strolling, especially with an ice-cream in hand.
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Head for the Berthillon shop on the Ile Saint-Louis at the back end of Notre Dame and you're in business. If you're there on a Sunday, you might even hire bikes from the Velib Station Marseille at Canal Saint-Martin, epicentre of cool, and pedal along the pedestrian-only canal-side streets.
What I'd say now
Three girls let loose in the City of Love, what could be more fun? No matter how many times you visit, Paris finds new ways to make your head spin. Book lunch at Bouillon Julien, in the hyper-cool 10th arrondissement.
2020
Q: I'll be flying to Berlin for six weeks in Europe from mid-June with flexible plans but want to avoid crowds. I'll be on a fairly tight budget but would love to see some history and do some hiking. Would you recommend anywhere in Eastern Europe?
What I said then
The standout is Romania. The country gets just over three million visitors annually and most of them get no further than Transylvania, cupped within the arc of the Carpathian Mountains. There's everything here the adventurous spirit could want, snow-capped peaks, wild forests with Europe's largest population of brown bears, medieval villages, fortified churches built by settlers from Saxony and Hungary, fairytale castles, painted monasteries and wooden churches. Plus a folk-art culture where woodcarvers, blacksmiths and farriers are part of everyday life. Don't miss the Maramures region in the north and Bukovina, in the north-east. Romania is Europe from another age, minus the crowds and beyond fabulous.
What I'd say now
Eastern Europe is only just getting the attention it deserves. Nowadays, if you're looking to avoid the crowds, Eastern Europe is worth a long look. Add Poland, Albania, Hungary and the Baltic countries to that list.
2022
Q: My wife and I want to revisit Nepal, possibly in July, with a few short hikes and maybe staying in a village. Is this a viable time to travel there?
What I said then
July is one of the warmest months in Kathmandu, with daytime maximums in the high 20s, cloudy days, high humidity and an average of more than 300 millimetres of rainfall for the month and that makes hiking almost impossible, with muddy conditions and leeches galore while extensive cloud cover obscures the mountain views.
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One part of the Himalaya that shines in mid-year is Ladakh, a one-hour flight from Delhi in north-western India. At a high altitude, between the Himalaya and the Hindu Kush ranges, Ladakh's mountains protect it from the monsoon clouds that soak the subcontinent. In July, you could count on sunny days with temperatures around 25 degrees, dropping to below 10 degrees at night. One drawback is the altitude, around 3500 metres, which requires a couple of days of limited physical activity to acclimatise.
What I'd say now
The end of COVID-imposed travel restrictions saw a period of revenge travel, and the thirst for adventure shone through in this question. Three years or so later my advice would be to not miss a trip from Ladakh into the Nubra Valley, home to ethnic minorities of Balti people who speak a mix of old Tibetan and Persian.
2023
Q: I'm travelling to Europe and occasionally, I have to make phone calls, but I want to avoid using Telstra roaming. What's the best way to go for budget-conscious travellers? I have an iPhone 13.
What I said then
One option is to use your phone's eSIM capability. To do so you need to sign up with a provider, download their app and purchase an eSIM for the country you're visiting. I use Airalo, their eSIMs start from 1GB of data, the cost is about $10 and you can top up when you need. Once activated, make sure your phone is receiving cellular data via your eSIM rather than via Telstra. Apps such as Viber allow you to make calls using data at very low cost.
What I'd say now
A ground-breaking technology, the eSIM, suddenly appeared on travellers' radar around the time of this reader letter, offering convenience and low-cost data to keep apps alive just about anywhere in the world. Nowadays, WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger are convenient ways to make calls to friends and family from overseas but for business calls you still need an app such as Viber.
2024
Q: I'm travelling to France soon and read that Australian travellers now need a visa for France. The Melbourne Consulate was not particularly helpful as the receptionist referred me to a site which stated that a visa was not needed.
What I said then
Australians do not need a visa to visit France. However, they will one day need to apply for an ETIAS visa waiver, not a visa. It's a simple process, done online via the ETIAS website. It is expected the scheme will come into effect in mid-2025, but it's been pushed back several years from its original proposed starting date.
What I'd say now
Note that UK now requires Australians to apply for an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) and most of Europe will soon implement its ETIAS system. The ETIAS requirement, originally planned for 2020, is now not forecast to come into effect in 2026. It's also likely to be more expensive than first planned.
Q: We are considering a winter European holiday with our extended family aged five-15, travelling by train. What's a convenient base for a week together and Christmas Day celebration in Italy, Germany or Austria?
What I said then
My pick is Innsbruck, capital of Austria's Tyrol region. Set on the floor of the Inn Valley on the banks of the Wipptal River, the peaks of South Tyrol provide a postcard backdrop to this lovely city. A Christmas highlight is the Christkindlmarkt, which takes place in the Old Town's main square, surrounded by arcaded medieval buildings. There's also a better than average chance of snow at Christmas.
What I'd say now
The white Christmas is a favourite theme for Australian travellers, and a family Christmas in the snow is a top choice. What I'd add now is that from Innsbruck, the STB Tram will take you on a winding journey into the glorious Stubaital Valley.
Five of the Tripologist's worst travel trends of the past 15 years
The selfie stick
Waving around like the antennae of demented cockroaches, a telescopic tool to document, share and prove I was in Venice with 50,000 other tourists.
The Instagram over-sharer
Every view from my window, every cappuccino with a cornetto, another opportunity for self-glorification. Eat your dinner and stop the nonsense.
The bucket list
Travelling for the trophy case is not meaningful, creative, rewarding or particularly satisfying. It's just box-ticking.
Dynamic currency conversion
Invented by the dark forces of finance, designed to fleece you via manipulated conversion rates, and becoming more pervasive.
Feedback fatigue
Every airline flight, every car-hire, every hotel stay is swiftly followed by a nagging email and a request for a review of the product or service you've just experienced. How much joy can I feel when the hire-car started, when the hotel had a bathroom, when your airline did what I'd paid it to do?
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Five of the Tripologist's best travel trends of the past 15 years
Slow travel
For savvy travellers, visiting fewer places and lingering is the name of the travel game. Anchor yourself in a Pyrenean village, get to know the local butcher and the cafe owner, walk and talk and you'll lay down memories for a lifetime.
The eSIM
Gives you data connectivity to keep your apps alive just about everywhere, and dual-SIM phones let you keep your usual SIM or eSIM in place for send-and-receive calls and messages. Read more on eSIMs here.
E-visas
When was the last time you had to send your passport to an embassy or consulate to obtain a visa? With the rise of the e-visa, you can do it all from home.
Contactless payments
Accepted just about everywhere, the times when you need an ATM or a local currency exchange have shrunk.
The rise of AI
Ask ChatGPT or Google Gemini to help construct your itinerary, or find the best birdwatching spot in the Okefenokee Swamp. You'll be surprised.