In a city with too many tiramisus on menus, this is the original (and perhaps the best)

Sydney Morning Herald

17-07-2025

Chef Naomi Lowry's menu is short and mostly traditional with a few, vermouth-friendly small plates, three pastas and one secondo del giorno. Across two visits, that rotating main has been a cotoletta alla Milanese of juicy pork, crisp sage and buttery, crunchy breadcrumb. Bellissimo. Sometimes, there'll be a steak special or ossobuco instead, but that schnitzel has already developed a loyal fan base.
Sweet and tangy caponata is a deep-red mix of long-cooked eggplant, tomato, sultanas and pine nuts made for spooning on grilled bread and drinking with something fruit-forward and Sicilian.
Zuzza also runs online wine store Atelier DeVino – and Cicci's bottle and by-the-glass list is rich with dynamite producers. I've enjoyed a crisp Andrea Occhipinti procanico from Lazio with mozzarella enveloped in fried carrozza bread, as well as a zippy, lightly salty Inkwell grillo from McLaren Vale with mafaldine pasta glossed in a cavalo nero and hazelnut pesto with a whisper of gorgonzola cream.
If I'm feeling flush, I might return for the Lake's Folly 2016 Cabernets ($175) and another round with the winter-busting pappardelle and lamb ragu – and then, maybe, something simple but significant from the top shelf of whiskies. 'Giuseppe's [very good, maybe perfect] tiramisu' loves a splash of booze to cut through the yolks and mascarpone.
Judging by Cicci's popularity, Balmain locals would love a few more cosy neighbourhood trattorias. (End copy, all bans reinstated.)