Stay informed: Here is some skincare advice that cuts through the noise

The Star

11-06-2025

Skincare advice is everywhere – and unfortunately a lot of it is inaccurate or outdated.
These have been passed around among friends, down from one generation to the next and most notably, often spread like wildfire over social media.
Thanks to access to real science and expert insight, we are now more informed, and it's time to bust some of the common skincare myths out there.
Pore beliefs
The idea that steam 'opens' your pores is one of the most stubborn skincare myths out there, when in actual fact, steam doesn't magically unclog anything.
Too much prolonged exposure to steam can do more harm than good, according to the booklet 40 Beauty Myths Busted by the Paula's Choice research and education team (which lists references to various journals and research papers).
Over-steaming can lead to broken capillaries, irritated skin and even trigger your pores to produce more oil – which means more breakouts, not fewer.
While it might feel luxurious, that spa-like steam session could be quietly damaging your skin in the long run: setting the stage for more clogged pores and more breakouts.
If you have rosacea, skip the steam entirely as heat only makes the redness worse, turning a well-meaning ritual into a recipe for flare-ups.
And since we're on the subject, did you know that while genetics play a role in determining pore size, environmental stressors as well as ageing can also have a bearing on their appearance?
Over time, our skin produces less collagen and loses elasticity, but incorporating regular exfoliation into your skincare routine can help keep your pores healthy and prevent them from stretching out, according to the article, 'Don't Believe These Pore-Sized Myths' on skinsider.co.uk.
Read more: Sunscreen is a skincare staple – so how do you choose the right kind?
Natural and 'clean' trump all
Just because an ingredient comes from nature doesn't mean it's gentle on your skin.
Essential oils, citrus extracts and other plant-based compounds can cause irritation, allergic reactions or full-blown breakouts – especially on sensitive skin.
In the same vein, 'clean beauty' sounds reassuring – but don't be fooled by marketing and a product's label.
An article on abc.net.au notes that 'natural' or clean' beauty is meant to make us feel good about taking care of ourselves by using ingredients sourced from nature.
However, the exact definition of 'clean' skincare is unclear and it's very much just a marketing buzzword, noted the article, 'Is natural skincare really better for you?'.
''Natural' ingredients may be seen as safe and 'synthetic' ones harmful', the science says otherwise.
Some natural ingredients can irritate your skin or trigger allergies, and on the flip side, many lab-made ingredients – like peptides, niacinamide, and retinol – are some of the most powerful tools out there to achieve clean and healthy skin.
Great skincare is more about smart, research-backed formulas that combine the best of both worlds: natural and synthetic.
Darker skin doesn't need sunscreen
Melanin (which is naturally produced by the body thanks to specialised cells called melanocytes) offers some natural UV protection, but it's not nearly enough to skip sunscreen.
A heavily used ingredient in skincare, vitamin C comes in many forms, so make sure to check product labels. Photo: Freepik While people with dark skin are at lower risk of sunburn (they have melanosomes that are higher in number, larger in size, and more pigmented than those with light skin tones), that doesn't mean they're immune to sun damage, premature ageing or even skin cancer.
Melanin – especially the type called eumelanin – does help block UV rays more effectively than lighter skin tones, but it's not a shield.
Exposure to UV still causes deep, invisible damage over time: hyperpigmentation, dullness, slower healing and wrinkles that creep in later in life.
Regardless of your skin colour, apply sunscreen liberally 30 minutes before going out in the sun, advises an article on The University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center website.
The article, '9 sunscreen myths debunked', also recommends reapplying SPF every two hours or after swimming or sweating.
Cleansing truths
With so many skin types, concerns and cleanser options out there, it's easy to get confused about what works and what doesn't.
One common belief is that oily skin needs squeaky-clean cleansers that end with the skin feeling tight and stripped.
In a New York Magazine article, Dr Heidi A Waldorf of Waldorf Dermatology Aesthetics says 'the biggest mistake people with oily skin make is overdrying their skin'.
Dr Michelle Park of Washing­­ton Square Dermatology notes dryness could cause issues such as skin quality and acne getting worse.
She says it 'will send a signal to the skin to make even more sebum to compensate, leading to even oilier skin'.
Don't let this then confuse you into thinking that oil cleansers aren't for oily or acne-prone skin, as the right oil cleanser can dissolve makeup and grime without clogging pores or messing with your skin barrier.
Even acne-prone skin can be­­nefit – just look for non-comedogenic options.
Finally, double-cleansing is sometimes wrongly accused of causing dry skin, but this only happens if you're not using the right products.
Start with an oil-based or micellar cleanser to remove makeup, then follow up with a hydrating cleanser for a thorough, skin-loving clean.
Read more: Ask The Expert: How do you keep your skin looking healthy as you age?
Powerful actives
One myth that keeps making its rounds is that you shouldn't mix vitamin C with other active ingredients such as retinol, peptides, AHAs, BHAs, and niacinamide.
A heavily used ingredient in skincare, vitamin C comes in many forms, so make sure to check product labels.
Reputable beauty websites such as Beauty Pie can help with the confusion: the site breaks them down from L-ascorbic Acid (LAA), the chemical name for pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid is the most active and unstable form of vitamin C) while ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) are milder forms.
Despite what skincare rumours say, vitamin C works well with many powerful actives.
Studies have shown the retinol (a form of vitamin A) and vitamin C combination to be highly effective in reversing both natural ageing and photoageing, according to beautypie.com.
Whether combined in one product or layered in your routine, they help tackle fine lines, dullness and loss of firmness.
Most peptides and vitamin C can be used together as vitamin C protects the skin from environmental stress while peptides signal your skin to repair and rebuild.
The exception would be copper peptides as these can interfere with vitamin C's stability, so it's best to avoid using them together.
Finally, using AHAs (like glyco­­lic or lactic acid) or BHA (like sa­­licylic acid) before vitamin C actually helps it absorb better, resulting in a brighter, smoother, more even-toned complexion.