Atlantic coastal trail in Portugal a slice of paradise for hikers

Miami Herald

05-05-2025

PORTO COVO, Portugual - Surfers all over the world hail Portugal's Atlantic Coast as one of the most exhilarating places to ride the waves. So a combined surfing and hiking holiday in Alentejo on Portugal's southern coastline would seem obvious. However, hikers making their way along the Trilho dos Pescadores quickly forget about surfing as they are wowed by the views along the Fishermen's Path.
The long sandy São Torpes beach beckons at the south of the coastal town of Sines. Some may be more inclined to stop for awhile and sunbathe at this trailhead. Others do not succumb and heave their rucksack onto their back, lace up their boots and go hiking.
The route has lots of beauty spots to reward you for the effort. Praia de Morgavel, Praia do Burrinho, Praia da Samoqueira are the enchanting names of just a few lonely bays and unspoiled beaches on the initial leg to Porto Covo. You may be tempted to linger but be warned - finding accommodation between the few fishing villages that mark the daily stages is impossible.
After a fortnight of touring the Atlantic coast between Porto Covo and Cape of São Vicente on Portugal's south-western tip in a camper van with a friend, a tourist, Lukas Pauluhn from Würzburg in southern Germany, suggested surfers should avoid the Trilho dos Pescadores.
The path requires perhaps a slightly masochistic streak coupled with an ability to withstand mental strain. The unabating, thunderous Atlantic breakers can be heard along the entire fishing trail, as the path winds over cliffs, through dunes and the odd sandy beach as well.
"Europe's best surfing hotspots are here. The waves are great all year round and there are hardly any surfers in the water. And look at this beautiful, empty beach," he says, pointing from the cliff to the beach of Malhão, south of Porto Covo.
Not for the faint-hearted
The Fishermen's Path runs mainly through the Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Nature Park. Hikers cross centuries-old paths that fishermen and village barnacle collectors still use today to get along the coast.
"You're really hiking right by the sea all day," says Carmelo, a pensioner from Huesca, Spain. That's good because there is hardly any shade on the route. So at least the fresh sea breeze cools you down a bit, he pointed out. However, the narrow sandy paths are very close to the cliffs, some of which are close to 100 feet high, Carmelo remarked, adding: "You definitely can't be afraid of heights on this hiking trail."
He and his wife, Adelina, definitely do not lack enthusiasm and were still toying with the idea of walking the entire Fishermen's Path to Lagos on the Algarve coast - a distance of 135 miles divided into 13 stages.
From beach to mighty cliffs
After Malhão beach, the path leads into an untouched dune landscape. This ever-changing scenery morphs from beaches to mighty cliffs as far as Vila Nova de Milfontes.
The day ends with a refreshing swim in the Mira River followed by local delicacies and a glass of wine in the rustic Tasca do Celso wine bar in Vila Nova de Milfontes. This striking coastal village is a true eye-catcher with its whitewashed houses and Fort São Clemente built on the waterfront.
Below the castle, a small ferry is on hand to cross the river and to save you a diversion over the inland bridge. The next stage to Almograve on the following day is quite short at 10 miles, but no less spectacular.
On disembarking the ferry, we pass through cork oak forests. Later, yellow and pink flowers glow in the dunes as well as purple gorse carnations. Cistus, juniper and rosemary waft along the way until the path leads over Praia do Brejo Largo – another dazzling beach against a backdrop of overgrown rocks.
The next day, we pass the small fishing port of Lapa das Pombas, after which the dunes turn red, yellow and white. The rocky landscape becomes more and more rugged. On the steep cliffs near the Cabo Sardão lighthouse, storks nest on the narrow rock slats that stretch down to the sea. The song of black throats or robins can be heard all day.
The trail then branches off to the Herdade do Touril country hotel with a saltwater pool in which to bathe our weary bodies. A menu of hearty country food whets our appetites. The nearby village of Zambujeira do Mar gleams in glorious white atop a rocky cliff.
A swim in the Atlantic
Misty dew lends the rocky landscape en route to Odeceixe a mystical air. After a few kilometres, the path through a game reserve with zebras seems surreal. Several bathing spots line the way to the fishing village of Azenha do Mar.
Now, the Ponta em Branco lookout is nigh with its panoramic vista of yet another beautiful beach. The section of the Trilho dos Pescadores through the Alentejo region ends in Praia de Odeceixe. Hikers are now about half way. Continue along the Algarve coast to Lagos, if you wish.
Alternatively, stop and rest and take a dip in the Atlantic. And if that's too much of a swirl, stroll across the sandbank to the calmer riverbank where the Ribeira de Seixe washes the beach before flowing into the sea.
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