Looking to get a perm, but want your curly hairstyle to last? Here's how

The Star

4 days ago

Wavy hairstyles are all the rage even among people with straight hair. If you want to keep your curls for longer, go to a hairdresser for a modern perm. Photo: dpa
Wavy hairstyles are all the rage, even among people with straight hair. But using a curling iron is fiddly and time-consuming and you also risk singeing your hair.
So if you want to keep your curls for longer, go to a hairdresser for help.
The magic word is 'modern perm". What does that really mean, though?
"It's all about bringing movement into your hair," says Antonio Weinitschke from the Central Association of the German Hairdressing Trade, and adding natural-looking waves rather than tiny curls.
"Hairdressers today use larger wraps and gentler waving products," he says.
But the process is still the same. You twist the hair and let the chemicals do the work.
How a 'modernperm' works
The hair must be 'chemically reshaped' to remain curly. That is done in three steps.
First, the damp hair is rolled onto rollers the size and type of which determine the shape. Then a perming agent is applied.
"It opens the disulphide bonds in the hair so that they take on the shape of the roller," says Weinitschke.
More bonds are needed for small curls than for large ones. Thus, big curls are gentler on your hair.
After rinsing your hair, a fixative is applied to ensure that the disulphide bonds close or new ones are created so that your hair stays curly or wavy.
Almost any hair can be curled in this way – as long as it's healthy.
"You just have to get the hair onto the rollers," Weinitschke says.
But all this beautification requires patience, and you should expect the perm to take about two hours.
A light perm is advisable to begin with, Weinitschke says. Such curls stay in shape for about two months.
All other perms "can be done after six to nine months". By then, at least half of your hair will be straight as your perm grows out. Perms for short hair are repeated after about three months, says the hairdresser.
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From curls to volume
A "modern perm" gives the hair big sweeps reminiscent of natural curls or beach waves, meaning casually tousled hair with slight waves.
"The modern version is perfect for chin or shoulder-length hair," says Ricarda Zill, a cosmetics expert with Germany's Association of the Personal Care and Detergent Industry.
If beach waves prove too unwieldy or your hair falls down below your shoulders, a volume wave is recommended. This adds movement to the hairstyle, especially fine or thin hair.
"It only takes half as long to apply as a classic or modern perm," says Zill.
That makes it a little gentler on your hair, but it doesn't last as long.
"It disappears by itself after about two months," says Zill.
Curly hair does not look as greasy and stringy as quickly as straight hair.
It doesn't need to be washed more than two or three times a week and preferably with a special shampoo for curly hair, says Zill.
"Gently massage the shampoo into the scalp and spread the lather all over your hair and ends so that the texture doesn't become rough," says Zill.
Use a conditioner, as curls tend to be dry.
Then, "just squeeze your hair dry with a towel and don't rub it'. Comb curls with a wide comb while your hair is wet.
"Under no circumstances should they be brushed. That destroys the curl," warns Zill.
Let your hair dry by itself or use a hair dryer diffuser at a low temperature. Apply a hair treatment once a week before going to bed and leave it on overnight, Zill recommends.
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Tension for curls
However, big curls lose their bounce quickly regardless of perm, Weinitschke says.
This is where styling products can help. Use a hair cream instead of fixing the hairstyle with hairspray or gel.
"That fixes the curls and adds a really nice bounce," says Zill.
A hair oil containing jojoba is suitable for thick, strong hair while products containing coconut oil or light flower oil are better for fine hair, Zill says.
Bear in mind you should wait a while after a perm before dyeing your hair.
"Too much bleaching or lighter colours can put additional stress on the hair," says Zill.
A gentler colour is better suited.
"Your scalp needs at least 48 hours to calm down," says Weinitschke. – dpa