Meet The Winemaker Changing The Face Of Sonoma Wine

Forbes

4 days ago

Jesse Katz walking in his Farrow Ranch vineyard
For decades, Napa Valley has been synonymous with pedigreed Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, but the spotlight is beginning to shift westward—toward Sonoma. Sonoma is rightly celebrated for its exquisite Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines but now its Bordeaux varietals are earning a seat at the table—and wine lovers should take note. A growing number of producers are earning critical acclaim, including rare 100-point scores that were once almost exclusively the domain of Napa's elite, and one of the key figures driving this evolution is winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars. Kyle Connaughton, chef and owner of Sonoma's three-Michelin-starred SingleThread restaurant, credits Katz with helping to raise the region's profile: 'In such a short time, Jesse has raised the bar so incredibly high in our region. His wines stand at the top of their class compared to great Old World counterparts, while simultaneously being innovative, provocative, and approachable. He is ushering in a new era of what's possible in California winemaking, and as a chef, I'm always incredibly excited and inspired to cook for his wines.'
Katz is not alone. Wineries like Vérité, which has received perfect scores for red blends that blur the line between Sonoma and Bordeaux, as well as Skipstone, Stonestreet, and Peter Michael have contributed to Sonoma's increasing stature in the wine world. The numbers don't lie; according to Wine-Searcher, the number of Sonoma County wines receiving 95 points or higher from top critics has more than doubled over the past decade.
Tasting room at Aperture Cellars in Sonoma
Katz, whose résumé includes tenure at the revered Napa estate Screaming Eagle, brings obsessive precision and artistry to his winemaking and viticulture and the results reflect his focus. Indeed, Katz is the first and only winemaker to ever earn a 100 point score for wine made in Sonoma's Alexander Valley—from six different critics no less. And, he's earned more perfect scores than any Sonoma winemaker to date.
While critics' scores aren't the sole measure of quality, they are an important barometer of excellence. And in this case, they signal a notable shift: Sonoma is no longer just Napa's country cousin. It is emerging as a destination for world-class wines and deserving of equal—if not greater—attention from collectors and connoisseurs alike.
After so much success in Napa, it's worth asking why Katz ventured into Sonoma. For him, the decision was a no-brainer: greater opportunity and diversity. 'There is so much potential in Sonoma,' explains Katz, 'finding the next great site is still very much a possibility. The best sites in Napa have already been discovered. And for someone like me who wasn't born into this industry or into wealth the barrier to entry in Napa was almost unachievable. It was hard enough even in Sonoma.'
Rolling hills of Aperture's Farrow Ranch in Sonoma's Alexander Valley
This sprawling county (Sonoma is 1,575 square miles compared to Napa's 789 square miles) runs from the Pacific to the Mayacamas Mountains and is home to every kind of microclimate imaginable. It has more soil diversity than the entire nation of France and is composed of a constellation of quirky small towns populated by a mix of hippies and farmers. Only a few decades ago, Sonoma's now buzzy Healdsburg Square was a Hell's Angels biker hotspot (some of whom used the square's fountain to bathe). Today, the bikers are gone, replaced by Michelin-starred restaurants, five-star hotels, and boutique shops. In keeping with this evolution, the winemaking has become more focused; consider that Alexander Valley is about to debut its first-ever sub ava, Pocket Peak, which will represent some of the region's most exquisite vineyard offerings. Not surprisingly, Katz's most prized vineyard, Farrow Ranch, sits right in the heart of it.
'It's a magical, unicorn of a site,' explains Katz, 'One of the best I've worked with in my career.' It was at Farrow Ranch that Katz discovered an intriguing block of old vine Malbec, (the source of his now-famous Devil Proof bottling, which received the first-ever 100-point score for a Malbec in US history). That success inspired Katz even more. 'For the last decade of my life, I've been focused on soils and identifying unique pockets where I can unlock their potential. One of Aperture's great successes has been our ability to find sites others have overlooked and redesign, replant and farm them in a completely new way.'
Farrow Ranch is a bowl-shaped paradise where Katz cultivates Bordeaux varietals on a range of different soil types, at different elevations and oriented in all directions. This amazing tapestry of vineyard variety gives Katz and his team remarkable flexibility at the blending table, enabling them to craft deeply complex wines. 'It's a site that hasn't even hit its stride yet,' he says. 'We've planted 17 new acres and have another phase planned for 2026.'
Sonoma's rise isn't about one winemaker making 100-point wines; it's more of a team effort with everyone sharing in each other's expertise across all aspects of winemaking and hospitality. On any given day one might spot a local chef wandering Aperture's vineyards on a foraging mission. Not long ago, Katz shared some of his decommissioned wine with local chef Dustin Valette (owner of The Matheson) who then used it to craft a wine-infused mustard. And, Christopher Jackson, proprietor of Jackson Family Wines, is working with Katz on a special winemaking project called Prophet and Poet; the 2021 releases just made their debut.
Katz owns Aperture in partnership with his father, acclaimed photographer Andy Katz—and the winery name couldn't be more fitting. In photography, 'aperture' refers to the control of light and focus, and that's exactly what Katz is bringing to Sonoma: a sharp focus and a spotlight on the region's viticultural brilliance. If you want in on the ground floor, you'd better make your way to Sonoma soon.
Aperture Collage: Katz's newest and most groundbreaking wine, these two bottlings feature the best of the best hand-selected fruit from across a portfolio of 200 acres. 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($425) and a 2022 Sauvignon Blanc ($125).
Aperture Site Series is a collection of single-vineyard wines, each sourced from one meticulously chosen vineyard site in Sonoma County
2022 Aperture Oliver Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon | $150
2022 Aperture Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150
2022 Aperture SJ Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150
2022 Aperture Proterra | $175