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Meet The Winemaker Changing The Face Of Sonoma Wine
Meet The Winemaker Changing The Face Of Sonoma Wine

Forbes

timea day ago

  • Business
  • Forbes

Meet The Winemaker Changing The Face Of Sonoma Wine

Jesse Katz walking in his Farrow Ranch vineyard For decades, Napa Valley has been synonymous with pedigreed Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, but the spotlight is beginning to shift westward—toward Sonoma. Sonoma is rightly celebrated for its exquisite Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines but now its Bordeaux varietals are earning a seat at the table—and wine lovers should take note. A growing number of producers are earning critical acclaim, including rare 100-point scores that were once almost exclusively the domain of Napa's elite, and one of the key figures driving this evolution is winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars. Kyle Connaughton, chef and owner of Sonoma's three-Michelin-starred SingleThread restaurant, credits Katz with helping to raise the region's profile: 'In such a short time, Jesse has raised the bar so incredibly high in our region. His wines stand at the top of their class compared to great Old World counterparts, while simultaneously being innovative, provocative, and approachable. He is ushering in a new era of what's possible in California winemaking, and as a chef, I'm always incredibly excited and inspired to cook for his wines.' Katz is not alone. Wineries like Vérité, which has received perfect scores for red blends that blur the line between Sonoma and Bordeaux, as well as Skipstone, Stonestreet, and Peter Michael have contributed to Sonoma's increasing stature in the wine world. The numbers don't lie; according to Wine-Searcher, the number of Sonoma County wines receiving 95 points or higher from top critics has more than doubled over the past decade. Tasting room at Aperture Cellars in Sonoma Katz, whose résumé includes tenure at the revered Napa estate Screaming Eagle, brings obsessive precision and artistry to his winemaking and viticulture and the results reflect his focus. Indeed, Katz is the first and only winemaker to ever earn a 100 point score for wine made in Sonoma's Alexander Valley—from six different critics no less. And, he's earned more perfect scores than any Sonoma winemaker to date. While critics' scores aren't the sole measure of quality, they are an important barometer of excellence. And in this case, they signal a notable shift: Sonoma is no longer just Napa's country cousin. It is emerging as a destination for world-class wines and deserving of equal—if not greater—attention from collectors and connoisseurs alike. After so much success in Napa, it's worth asking why Katz ventured into Sonoma. For him, the decision was a no-brainer: greater opportunity and diversity. 'There is so much potential in Sonoma,' explains Katz, 'finding the next great site is still very much a possibility. The best sites in Napa have already been discovered. And for someone like me who wasn't born into this industry or into wealth the barrier to entry in Napa was almost unachievable. It was hard enough even in Sonoma.' Rolling hills of Aperture's Farrow Ranch in Sonoma's Alexander Valley This sprawling county (Sonoma is 1,575 square miles compared to Napa's 789 square miles) runs from the Pacific to the Mayacamas Mountains and is home to every kind of microclimate imaginable. It has more soil diversity than the entire nation of France and is composed of a constellation of quirky small towns populated by a mix of hippies and farmers. Only a few decades ago, Sonoma's now buzzy Healdsburg Square was a Hell's Angels biker hotspot (some of whom used the square's fountain to bathe). Today, the bikers are gone, replaced by Michelin-starred restaurants, five-star hotels, and boutique shops. In keeping with this evolution, the winemaking has become more focused; consider that Alexander Valley is about to debut its first-ever sub ava, Pocket Peak, which will represent some of the region's most exquisite vineyard offerings. Not surprisingly, Katz's most prized vineyard, Farrow Ranch, sits right in the heart of it. 'It's a magical, unicorn of a site,' explains Katz, 'One of the best I've worked with in my career.' It was at Farrow Ranch that Katz discovered an intriguing block of old vine Malbec, (the source of his now-famous Devil Proof bottling, which received the first-ever 100-point score for a Malbec in US history). That success inspired Katz even more. 'For the last decade of my life, I've been focused on soils and identifying unique pockets where I can unlock their potential. One of Aperture's great successes has been our ability to find sites others have overlooked and redesign, replant and farm them in a completely new way.' Farrow Ranch is a bowl-shaped paradise where Katz cultivates Bordeaux varietals on a range of different soil types, at different elevations and oriented in all directions. This amazing tapestry of vineyard variety gives Katz and his team remarkable flexibility at the blending table, enabling them to craft deeply complex wines. 'It's a site that hasn't even hit its stride yet,' he says. 'We've planted 17 new acres and have another phase planned for 2026.' Sonoma's rise isn't about one winemaker making 100-point wines; it's more of a team effort with everyone sharing in each other's expertise across all aspects of winemaking and hospitality. On any given day one might spot a local chef wandering Aperture's vineyards on a foraging mission. Not long ago, Katz shared some of his decommissioned wine with local chef Dustin Valette (owner of The Matheson) who then used it to craft a wine-infused mustard. And, Christopher Jackson, proprietor of Jackson Family Wines, is working with Katz on a special winemaking project called Prophet and Poet; the 2021 releases just made their debut. Katz owns Aperture in partnership with his father, acclaimed photographer Andy Katz—and the winery name couldn't be more fitting. In photography, 'aperture' refers to the control of light and focus, and that's exactly what Katz is bringing to Sonoma: a sharp focus and a spotlight on the region's viticultural brilliance. If you want in on the ground floor, you'd better make your way to Sonoma soon. Aperture Collage: Katz's newest and most groundbreaking wine, these two bottlings feature the best of the best hand-selected fruit from across a portfolio of 200 acres. 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($425) and a 2022 Sauvignon Blanc ($125). Aperture Site Series is a collection of single-vineyard wines, each sourced from one meticulously chosen vineyard site in Sonoma County 2022 Aperture Oliver Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture SJ Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture Proterra | $175

How to Throw an Elevated Wine Country Bachelorette
How to Throw an Elevated Wine Country Bachelorette

Vogue

time6 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

How to Throw an Elevated Wine Country Bachelorette

Sit out in the gardens and enjoy a round of bocce ball with your party on your stop at Landmark Vineyards. We love this stop to sip on Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays of the Russian River Valley. Aperture Cellars Photo: Courtesy of Aperture Cellars The architecture of the modern tasting room decorated with Alex Katz photography is just one reason to visit Aperture Cellars. Matched with their delicious Bordeaux-style wines, it's a winning combo. Other Fun Wine Country Bachelorette Activities Want to put some more activities on your agenda than a traditional tasting? Check out some amazing activity options ahead. Passport to Dry Creek Valley Want to skip the hassle of arranging tons of tasting room visits for your bachelorette and also get some bang for your buck? Plan your bachelorette during Passport to Dry Creek Valley. This two-day spring celebration in the Dry Creek Valley wine region in Northern Sonoma gives you access to over 25 wineries that are open to ticket holders for events with food pairings, live music, and unique behind-the-scenes property tours. Napa Valley Wine Train You may be surprised that a train wine tour is actually one of the best tastings in the region. The Napa Valley Wine Train is a favorite thanks to it offering scenic views, great pairings, and stops at some favorite wineries in the region. It also will make for some great photo moments with your group. Francis Ford Coppola Vineyard Pool While a tasting at the winery owned by famed director Francis Ford Coppola is always a great time, you should consider booking a timeslot at the property's pool on your visit. You can enjoy a resort-like experience while sipping on cans of Sofia sparkling rosé and cooling off from the wine-country heat. Bottlerock Does the bride-to-be love a good concert? Consider coordinating your bachelorette around the Bottlerock music festival. Hosted annually in May, the Napa-based festival has more of a wine-country feel than Coachella vibes, with a diverse mix of music as well as a focus on great food and wine pop-ups. With one-day and three-day tickets available, you can make it a part of your trip or the main event. Transportation in Wine Country Anyone who has ever served as a maid of honor will tell you that logistics are one of the most important parts of planning a bachelorette. Understanding how to get to wine country and then move around it with a group is unfortunately not as easy as booking an Uber or Lyft whenever you want. First off, driving from either the San Francisco Airport or Oakland Airport to the area can take a minimum of two hours with traffic, so either renting cars, scheduling a shuttle, taking Vine public transit, or booking a private chauffeur like Blacklane is the only way you can make it north towards Napa. There is also an airport in Sonoma, with flights available from major cities like Los Angeles, Dallas, and Portland. Once you're settled at your accommodations, it's important to coordinate your designated drivers for wine tasting and excursions. While you might have a friend or two that will abstain from drinking for the weekend that can chauffeur the group around, it's best to arrange professional drivers for the group that can traverse windy roads with a clear head. While ride shares can be found, they aren't always reliable when trying to make a reservation in time with a big group. Consider booking a driver for the day or even a bus if you have more than a carload of bridesmaids. Sonoma Sterling Limousines is a great transportation option that not only has luxury SUVs and sprinter vans, but also limos and party buses if you want to really take your trip up a notch.

Aperture Winery Unveils 'Collage,' A New Chapter In Sonoma Winemaking
Aperture Winery Unveils 'Collage,' A New Chapter In Sonoma Winemaking

Forbes

time13-05-2025

  • Business
  • Forbes

Aperture Winery Unveils 'Collage,' A New Chapter In Sonoma Winemaking

Aperture Cellars Collage Aperture Cellars has never shied away from blending art and wine—but with Collage, its most ambitious release to date, the Sonoma winery founded by Jesse Katz is taking that philosophy to soaring new heights. Officially launched on May 3 with a vibrant celebration at the Aperture Estate, Collage is more than just a pair of wines. It's a statement—on craftsmanship, on terroir, and on the cultural power of creative expression. 'This is the next chapter,' says Katz. 'We've looked at over 300 different lots to create these two unique, proprietary wines. There are no boundaries to this project—only the goal of making the best wine possible from a single vintage.' Aperture Cellars Collage The new Collage collection includes two inaugural wines: the 2022 Proprietary White Wine ($375/3-pack) and the 2021 Proprietary Red Wine ($1,275/3-pack), both available beginning May 13 via These aren't simple blends—they're labor-intensive, high-concept creations that draw from over 200 acres across five distinct Sonoma AVAs, including estate vines planted as far back as 1912. From over 300 individual vineyard lots, Katz and his team selected only the finest barrels to create what he calls 'a sense of time'—a bottled snapshot of a singular vintage, refined by meticulous craftsmanship. 'There's no recipe to this,' Katz says. 'If I can't make something perfect from a vintage, we won't bottle it.' Aperture Collage The 2022 Proprietary White Wine, made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, was aged for 18 months in barrel and then transferred to custom-made concrete vessels for six more months of refinement. The result is a white wine with precision, polish, and unexpected depth. It's vibrant yet rich—layered with tropical fruit, citrus, green papaya, and a distinctive lemon meringue note, all buoyed by a subtle mineral finish courtesy of the concrete aging. 'It's unlike any white wine I've ever tasted,' Katz says. 'Bright, focused, and full of richness. There's nothing else like it.' The 2021 Collage Proprietary Red is a striking study in balance—intensely structured yet polished, with deep concentration and finesse. Crafted from select hillside vineyard sites and aged for two years in barrel followed by six months in concrete and an additional year in bottle, the wine offers a rich tapestry of dark fruit, savory spice, and integrated tannins. 'This is not just a powerful wine—it's a focused one,' Katz says. 'The concrete aging adds lift and texture, allowing the components to marry together and evolve as one.' The wine's extended aging and complex construction showcase Katz's deep global winemaking experience—now over 25 harvests strong—and his dedication to redefining what California blends can be. Aperture Cellars Collage True to its name, Collage is also a visual masterpiece. Designed in collaboration with Katz's father, renowned photographer Andy Katz, the label features more than 20 of Andy's images layered together using a camera shutter motif. It took seven production passes, custom die cuts, and new label technology just to bring it to life. 'No one's ever made a label like this,' says Katz. 'It's as ambitious as the wine inside.' Each bottle is sealed with hand-dipped wax and exudes tactile artistry—intended to mirror the sensory depth of the wines themselves. While Aperture's prior wines have always been site-driven and varietally focused, Collage represents a more avant-garde evolution—one where boundaries are removed and creativity is the only rule. It's a collection rooted in Sonoma's storied soils but expressed through Katz's global perspective and bold sense of innovation. 'Sonoma County still has that spirit of discovery,' Katz says. 'It allows us to be pioneers and create something truly new, while honoring those who came before us.'

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