I found a hidden side to Rome in the 'city that never was'

Metro

14-05-2025

When you think of Rome, you picture the Colosseum, narrow alleyways, and crowds of tourists.
But as I survey my surroundings on the Viale Europa, the streets are deserted, the landscape positively futuristic. Arriving at The Hilton Rome EUR La Lama, a skyscraper with sharp rectangular angles and glass lifts, only adds to my confusion.
Inside, the open-concept lobby boasts high ceilings and minimalist decor. 'Yes, you're in Rome,' the woman at the check-in desk confirms as she hands me my keycard.
The view from my room is a striking bird's-eye view of a confusingly unfamiliar city. It turns out the Rome we know and love is just around the corner – 15 minutes away, within the city's ancient walls.
But I'm in 'New Rome', a bizarre architectural vision of Italy's infamous fascist dictator, Benito Mussolini.
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The bombastic prime minister, who is best remembered for aligning himself with Adolf Hitler, hoped to create a new city centre that would showcase Italy's power, and celebrate 20 years of fascism.
There was to be new roads and neighbourhoods built of glass and steel, an enormous concrete arch, and a huge building complex known as the Esposizione Universale di Roma or EUR, which could be constructed on the southern outskirts of the capital.
Mussolini planned for New Rome to host the 1942 World Fair, where he expected to be praised for his genius.
But the event was cancelled after when World World Two broke out in September 1939, leaving his grand designs half-finished.
After the Germans were driven out of Rome in 1944, refugees flooded the city and tore the buildings apart for firewood.
Stripped and abandoned, New Rome lay forgotten until the Italian government turned the EUR into a business district. Today, it's a corporate hub with restaurants, shops and residential areas.
Walking around a 'ghost town' so close to Central Rome feels surreal.
There are none of the queues that snake around the churches of the Vatican, nor the throngs jostling to throw coins in the Trevi Fountain.
Along with the celebration of its Jubilee, 2025 has already been a bumper tourist year for the Eternal City.
TUI has just reported a 227% increase in bookings to Rome between the April and May The papal conclave and record-time appointment of Pope Leo XIII have inspired Brits to look to Rome for their next trip, but most will miss out on its lesser-known sister.
My first stop is Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, often referred to as the Square Colosseum, which was intended to be the crown jewel of New Rome.
The imposing geometric structure dominates the skyline with its tight rows of arches, a nod to the classical round Colosseum. Widely considered to be the architectural icon of the Roman 20th century, it's now the headquarters of fashion brand Fendi.
Nearby is the massive dome and marble facade of the Basilica dei Santi Pietro e Paolo, designed to compete with Rome's most iconic churches, like St. Peter's Basilica.
The church's plaza provides a breathtaking view of the city — you can even see the dome of St. Peter's in the distance.
At Laghetto dell'EUR, a man-made lake, I see people for the first time, including locals paddle boarding — a sight at odds with the landscape.
New Rome, with its dark history and rationalist architecture, can't compete with the Renaissance style of central Rome, but it does offer an intriguing glimpse into the complex past of Italian urban planning.
A tour guide I meet points out that Italians prefer to preserve structures, even controversial ones, rather than erase them — a lesson in learning from the past.
For example, Milan's Stazione Centrale (Central Train Station) is one of Europe's largest and busiest stations, but it's also where more than 1,000 Jews were transported to concentration camps during the war. Traces of swastikas still remain on terminal walls.
Staying in New Rome is cheaper than central Roman accommodation. My stay at the Hilton starts from around €150 (£130) per night.
Dining follows a similar trend: in central Rome, a simple pasta dish at popular restaurants such as Ristorante La Tavernetta 48 will set you back around €23 (£19), whereas local gems in the EUR district, like Ristorante Il Fungo, serve comparable dishes for closer to €10 (£8.65).
Lesser-known New Rome also provides respite from crowds, as the city centre battles with over tourism. When the Trevi fountain reopened after restoration works in December 2024, it did so with a new queuing system, due to so many crowds gathering around the monument.
Rome will be exceptionally busy in 2025, as it marks the Holy Year of Jubilee. The Italian capital is tipped to become the epicentre of a global pilgrimage, with more than 35 million people expected to flock to it over the course of the year.
Of course, there is still plenty to do in 'old' Rome, as it were. After a shower, spaghetti, and sleep, I jump on a metro, and within 15 minutes I'm in the city centre.
A Vespa tour with Dearoma Tours (from £84 per person) is a good choice for weary feet. Zip swiftly through busy streets to the , bypassing the tantrums, tourists, and toddlers.
My driver, Fabio, had a penchant for wheelies — the more petrified I was, the more he ramped things up. But it all added to the fun.
Zip swiftly along busy streets to the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, and one of my favourite stops: the Aventine Hill's Giardino degli Aranci, the Garden of Oranges.
The garden, also known as Savello Park, is home to the Keyhole of the Knights of Malta. Peer through it, and you'll see St. Peter's Basilica perfectly framed by hedges.
We end up at Piazza Navona with its fountains and bustling cafés, which feels like the beating heart of the city.
I am told to quench my thirst at one of the many Nasone street fountains. Literally translated to 'large nose', they get their name from the design which features a large water spout.
Be warned: drinking from one is a skill. A local kindly showed me how to press the lever just enough for a perfect stream, but I failed spectacularly – and repeatedly – spraying water all over myself and drawing gleeful laughter from passers-by.
For lunch its hard to look past Aleph Rome, a bank turned boutique hotel that serves excellent shrimp and asparagus gnocchi. You can still see traces of its financial past in the architecture – vault doors and grand marble pillars.
Luxury abounds at the Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria (we're talking £400 per night), where famous guests like Elizabeth Taylor and Leonardo DiCaprio have enjoyed Roman holidays.
In the hotel's main lobby, I was stunned by the vast art collection — think Tiepolo, Venetian masters, and antique tapestries, all displayed in what feels like a private gallery. More Trending
After a long day, I head back to my hotel in New Rome. As I leave the crowds behind me, I feel like the only tourist in on this secret.
After sightseeing in Rome, I head to the coast for some R&R. Just an hour's flight away, picturesque Sardinia takes less time to get to than travelling from one side of London to another. A round-trip flight costs around £70-£150, depending on the season.
To get my bearings, I join a tour around Cagliari, Sardinia's capital, where I explore Cathedral de Cagliari, with its stunning frescoes and an intricate baroque altar.
The bustling main market is filled with fresh produce, handmade goods, and local delicacies. I gorge on bruschetta and seafood salads and carbonara, which will set you back £15-25 at the quaint and charming Sa Marina restaurant, which is located in the maze of charming allies that make up this town.
My base is the quiet Conrad Chia Laguna Hotel on the island's southern coast, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and surrounded by rolling hills.
The hotel is a haven for foodies. There are a few dining options: Sa Mesa, where I try handmade pasta paired with Sardinian wines, and Il Ginepro, the resort's main dining spot that serves a buffet-style feast of freshly grilled fish to Mediterranean salads.
For a truly special dining experience, guests should take to the water for a sunset boat cruise (£100 per person) to sip on champagne and drink in the views.
Of course, you can't come to Sardinia without trying its famous cheese. Around 1.5 million people live in Sardinia, but according to locals, they are outnumbered by sheep — 3 million of the furry creatures, in fact.
I try cheese-making at Medau Sa Stiddiosa, an off-track spot best travelled to in a 4×4 to see the magic happen (around £50 per person).
The tour ends with a meal of antipasti, grapes, and cheese on a rustic cottage veranda overlooking the hills.
Dominique Hines was a guest of the Hilton Rome Eur La Lama. Rates start from £167 per night for a 'King Guest double room, based on two adults sharing.
In Sardinia, she stayed at the Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia. Rates from £318 for a Deluxe Room with double occupancy.
This article was originally published on 16 January 2025 and has been updated to reflect recent developments.
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