Fabric Research, Utility Define Outerwear Brands' Men's Spring 2026 Collections in Milan
The Stone Island collection explored the balance and contrast between nature and the city, presenting influences from workwear to the world of sailing. The extensive color palette ranged from cool blues to warmer brown tones. The brand continued its innovations with new interpretations of reflective technology, thermosensitive fabric and experiments with new methods for waxing garments.
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Highlights included the new hooded down jacket, hand-sprayed with a reflective solution containing micro glass spheres, recreating the effect of frozen lake water. The piece featured a super-light 15-denier nylon base and showcased a vertical rectangle quilting technique and an asymmetric metal zipper. The reflective selection extended to the compact nylon fatigue trousers. Each piece featured a white embroidered badge, symbol of the artisanal finishing process.
The evolution of Stone Island's subcollections — Ghost, Marina and Stellina — moved forward with the introduction of a seasonal color, blue ardesia for the Ghost line, a reinterpretation of the Marina signature sailing jacket dyed with specific double-dye recipes that enhance the texture of the material, and Neoprene rubber details for the Stellina collection.
With a community-driven editorial project and video installation titled 'Behind the Seams,' C.P. Company celebrated its blend of legacy and innovation, while its spring 2026 collection upped the ante in terms of fabric research and experimental dyeing treatments.
The brand reinterpreted some of its archival pieces and details with new materials, including its signature Goggle and Mille jackets, here revisited via cutting-edge fabrics such as Bi-TM, Gore G-Type, Opal-C and Rafia-R. The company's distinctive combination of form and functionality was also expressed via modular pockets and storage compartments featured across outerwear, overshirts and pants in twill, micro reps, Heavy Chrome-R and Flatt Nylon.
The company's experimentation in garment dyeing techniques also shined. The main focus was on delivering a lived-in patina, as seen in options cut from the Panama-R fabric made from recycled nylon yarns.
Best expressing its research-driven approach, Ten C unveiled a new iteration of its signature OJJ fabric for spring, coating it in titanium via nanotechnology before garment dyeing the pieces. The subtle shimmering metallic accents — on a field jacket with oversize pockets, for example — entails several technical challenges, making it hardly commercially viable on a large scale, said creative director Alessandro Pungetti.
Hinged on the same iridescent effect, nylon canvas was plied into similar styles with a metallic undertone. Elsewhere, the 11-ounce OJJ was plied in a range of cool and techie seamless duster coats, parkas, herringbone jackets and anoraks bonded via ultrasound, all inspired by styles seen in vintage British army outerwear. A lighter version of the fabric was employed for trucker jacket and Bermuda shorts combos.
In keeping with its urban utility ethos, Blauer introduced garment-dyed options in its offering, ranging from sweatshirts and jerseys to T-shirts and pants, done in a classic color palette of indigo blue and olive green. They best complemented the outerwear lineup, which included cool anoraks and cropped parkas in nylon crease, as well as washed suede bikers and bomber jacket with a worn-in finish.
It was all about texture and urban sartorial outerwear at Moorer, which reinterpreted its signature lightweight puffer jackets for the early spring in unusual fabrics such as linen; plied wool and silk blends into bomber jackets featuring a subtle checkered pattern, or treated linen overshirts and vests with aloe for a fresh and butter-soft tactile quality. Sea Island cotton was worked into gauzy knit underpinnings and shirt jackets in numerous natural nuances or overdyed in sea-inspired shades of green and blue.
Fay
Fay presented a new limited-edition collection in collaboration with race car driver and Swiss entrepreneur Ronnie Kessel, who this year participated in the Alfa Revival Cup as a gentleman driver.
The Fay Racing jacket was designed to protect from wind, rain and the cold, conceived for drivers as pre-race equipment.
The inspiration derived from the original tracksuit in the blue gray color of drivers from the '60s. Details included a key holder with the Fay hook directly applied on the breast pocket; the collar with a protective wool band inspired by the fireproof undersuit of yore, and zippered side pockets.
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