Travelling to Japan? Escape the maddening crowd with a modern onsen ryokan stay
That's how we found ourselves in the austere lobby of KAI Akiu, anchored by moss-green carpeting and blonde wood furnishings that echoed the mountainscape outside. Operated by Japanese luxury hotelier Hoshinoya, KAI describes its accommodations as 'Japanese auberges in classic hot spring regions'. Yet calling KAI Akiu an auberge (an inn or hostel) would be a glaring understatement. The property is refreshingly spacious and light and, like all KAI properties, manages to celebrate the best of traditional Japanese design while also feeling modern.
Which is to say, the suites may be appointed with tatami mats and shoji doors, but you'll sleep on plush mattresses and enjoy ample bathrooms fitted with modern amenities.
In centuries past, this historical hot spring town, 90 minutes away from Tokyo by train, was a destination of choice for feudal lords who came here to recover from battle. These days, Akiu hosts holidaymakers in matching yakuta, escaping the rigours of city life. One of the best things about ryokan living is the samue, soft cotton loungewear given to guests that serve as comfortable uniforms for the duration of their stay. Slipping into these jammies signals that the holiday has begun – at least for our time here, there was no need for mundane decisions like what to wear.
The other perks of ryokan living are the decadent, drawn-out kaiseki dinners and breakfasts. Unlike at traditional ryokans, where meals are served in-room, meals at KAI properties are taken in a communal dining room with guests separated by panelled dividers.
Dinner one night included oxtail rillette with rusks made from Sendai gluten, surf clams dressed with Tosa vinegar dressing, steamed crab with grated yam cake, and donabe rice with pearl barley and oxtail soup. Each meal was a procession of about 10 seasonal courses featuring unique local specialities – in Akiu's case, beef tongue and zunda (mashed edamame) – served on lacquered trays and local ceramics.
In our expansive guest room, we spent an embarrassing amount of time doing nothing but staring out at the river before us on a cobalt sofa that runs parallel to the gigantic picture window. When we could pull ourselves away from this bucolic tableau, we alternated between KAI Akiu's indoor and outdoor baths, each fed by the region's age-old sodium chloride spring, said to warm the body and soften the skin.
Afterwards, we cooled off with fruit-flavoured ice pops in the lounge or sipped freshly pulled draft beer with our feet dangling in a hot footbath on a terrace overlooking the trees.
FROM MOUNTAIN TO SEA
A hundred minutes from Tokyo in the opposite direction is the seaside town of Ito. If Akiu is defined by earthy moss and murmuring trees, Ito is its opposite, with impossibly blue open skies and salty air. KAI Anjin sits along the coast in a sleek, ship-inspired building that references William Adams, the English navigator who landed here in the 16th century, became a trusted advisor to the shogun, and was eventually anointed with samurai status. If that story sounds familiar, it's because the TV series Shogun we binge-watched last year is loosely based on Adams' life.
Before it opened in 2017, KAI Anjin's owners called on Tokyo design studio Super Potato to convey the site's maritime history in tasteful, subtle ways. The firm responded with its unique approach to mixing traditional with modern design, including a spacious deck that pays homage to the deck of the San Buena Ventura, Japan's first western ship built by Adams.
The eight-storey hotel features 45 elegant suites that look out to unfettered sea views. No two rooms are designed the same, and ours was clad in dark wood floors and seagrass rugs that gave it a cavernous feel even as sunlight spilled through the full-height windows.
Queen-sized mattresses and comfy armchairs stand in for traditional tatami mats and futons one typically associates with a ryokan. These plush touches make it easy to nestle into a soft place and power down while allowing the rejuvenating ocean view to recharge your dimming batteries.
With Ito being home to the most abundant hot spring sources in the Izu Peninsular (there are over 700), we'd have been remiss not to soak up the soothing, mineral-rich water in the property's eighth-floor onsen. It's not often one can sit in a traditional Japanese bath while gazing out at the Pacific Ocean as fat black-tailed gulls swoop across the waters. Onsen experiences are all about natural harmony and this one felt particularly unique given its seaside setting.
More fruity ice pops and beer followed post-onsen, this time on that gorgeous deck that fills up all too quickly with hotel guests jostling for precious space to photograph themselves against the ethereally blue coast.
To fill their free time, guests can watch an evening presentation on Adams' story in the lobby or amble along the historical town centre where old wooden buildings, narrow streets and traditional shops express Ito's rich history. Totaikan, a former ryokan now preserved as a public museum, offers more information and artefacts on Adams' legacy.
Back at KAI Anjin, dinner is an elaborate affair, this time with subtle nods to Adams' English roots. On our first night, the main course was a hearty bouillabaisse hot pot swimming with local seafood, while the following brought dishes like deep-fried stuffed scallops, millet cake with shrimp and wood ear mushrooms, and black sesame tiramisu.
English-speaking staff are not the norm at KAI properties, but a doting English speaker was assigned to us at all the important moments, like mealtimes, check-in, and during cultural discovery sessions at Akiu, where one provided real-time translations of the rituals and traditions that samurais observed when drinking sake.
One young lady explained that as global mobility increases along with prices at onsen ryokans, younger Japanese are choosing to vacation outside Japan. Operators like KAI are hoping to attract a new generation of visitors by gently incorporating modern innovations like WiFi and, in Anjin's case, record players to keep up with the times.
For city folk like us, resorts like KAI Akiu and Anjin offer something simple and rare: A place to be still. They are reminders that the best luxury is the kind that whispers, steaming quietly from the edge of a mountainside or rolling in gently with the tide.
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Straits Times
15 hours ago
- Straits Times
Is Taiwan the new Japan: How restaurants are expanding their food sources
SINGAPORE – Nae:um, a one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Telok Ayer, serves contemporary Korean dishes under the direction of a South Korean chef. Its name is equally rooted in that peninsula, derived from a poetic Korean word connoting a fragrance that evokes memories. The ingredients that make up the restaurant's artful creations, however, draw from a more cosmopolitan range. Seafood, for instance, comes from Japan, Europe, New Zealand an d Singapore. About 70 per cent of the fish on Nae:um's current menu is sourced from local fishermen at Jurong Fishery Port. And the diamond trevally – a rarity in fine dining and modern Korean restaurants – caught off Singapore's coasts is the star of its seafood main course. Diamond trevally on Nae:um's A Hanok Prelude menu. PHOTO: NAE:UM With exacting preparation, chef-founder Louis Han wants to introduce diners to the texture and flavour of the underrated yet delicious fish. 'I'd like to erase the misconception that what is more costly equates to better quality. With proper handling and preparation with care, locally bred fish can taste just as good as fish from Japan or elsewhere,' says the 35-year-old Seoul native. Like chef Han, fine-dining restaurants in Singapore are casting their nets beyond traditional waters – meat and seafood are usually hauled in from Japa n, and wine from France or Italy – and embracing less tapped regions. It mirrors a wider national shift towards greater supply chain diversity. In 2024, the Singapore Food Agency (SFA) greenlit pork from Portugal, beef from Brunei and Poland, and poultry from Turkey . This brought the Republic's total number of food supply sources to 187 countries and regions, up from 140 some 20 years ago. SFA say s this diversification strategy has 'proven crucial in mitigating risks associated with global supply disruptions, arising from various factors including disease outbreaks, climate change and geopolitical tensions'. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore New vehicular bridge connecting Punggol Central and Seletar Link to open on Aug 3 Singapore Tengah facility with over 40 animal shelters, businesses hit by ticks Business Property 'decoupling' illegal if done solely to avoid taxes: High Court Singapore HSA investigating teen who was observed to be allegedly vaping in MRT train Singapore 60 years of building Singapore Asia 'Every day, we think about how to upgrade': China's factories see rise in robot adoption Sport Spurs captain Son Heung-min says he is leaving the English Premier League club Life Tastemakers: Burnt-out serial entrepreneur cooks up $16m success with Lau Wang Claypot Delights Such is true in chef Han's case. For him, variety is a safeguard against volatile shipment schedules and price fluctuations. International ingredients compensate for the lack of local produce on public holidays, while alternative sources keep the restaurant running when Japanese stock dries up during Golden Week from end-April to early May. But not all restaurants are driven by practical considerations. Some eschew the easy, stable option for produce that, though inconvenient, aligns with their culinary identity. As Ms Chong Ri Jia – chief executive of FoodPlant, the Singapore Institute of Technology's small-batch food production facility – points out, diversification helps to meet evolving consumer expectations. 'There's rising demand for seasonal produce, speciality ingredients and ethically sourced products, which pushes restaurants and suppliers to explore new regions,' she say s. She adds that more produce from South America, Central Europe and Africa might find its way to Singapore in the coming years. 'These regions offer untapped potential in both quality and cost efficiency, especially as trade routes and supply capabilities mature.' For now, meat and seafood from Taiwan and Ireland are gaining traction in Singapore, as are wine and cheese from Japan. Taste of Taiwan Iru Den chef-owner Javier Low started incorporating Taiwanese ingredients into his menu in 2024. ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE In 2023, chef Javier Low was plying a well-trodden route to culinary prestige. His ingredients were Japanese and his techniques, European. He was running the show at Iru Den restaurant in Scotts Road, a stretch replete with other Japanese and European establishments celebrated for their premium produce. It was, from the outside, a perfectly viable approach. But behind the scenes, cracks started to show. 'The aftermath of Covid-19 was pretty tough. There were period s w hen the prices of produce from Japan went crazy. And when Japan started releasing treated nuclear waste water from Fukushima into the sea in 2023, we knew that bringing in Taiwanese produce was the right move,' says the 33-year-old chef-owner of the Michelin-selected restaurant. That was also the year he took a trip to Taiwan with his Pingtung-born wife, Iru Den's sommelier Emily Chen, 3 2. There, he was introduced to the wonders of Taiwan – rich, juicy carabinero prawns, maguro and sakura ebi that could give the Japanese versions a run for their mone y , as well as his mother-in-law's cai pu (pickled radish). 'Everyone's supporting Japanese products, so we wanted to take the risk and do something different, more meaningful too because of our connection to Taiwan,' he says. He added that it is rare for Singaporean restaurants to incorporate familial touches in the form of produce grown and prepared by their loved ones. So including his mother-in-law's cai p u in Iru Den's chicken broth and brown butter is the closest he gets to that. Initially, the couple found it difficult to fill their larder with Taiwanese produce. There were few suppliers they could tap in Singapore, so they had to approach fishermen and farmers in Taiwan. Unlike Japan, where produce is brought to a central market and distributed through a tightly organised process, seafood in Taiwan is scattered across its various ports an d d ependent on the whims of fishermen. 'They're a lot more laid-back. If the fisherman wants to fish, he'll fish, but if he doesn't feel like it, then too bad,' observes chef Low, who had to endure a few failed shipments that bit off a chunk of his savings when he first made the switch. Over time, however, the couple cobbled together a reliable band of suppliers through Ms Chen's family connections and fellow chefs. They rebranded as a Taiwanese restaurant in mid-2024 . Now, 80 per cent of the restaurant's produce hails from the island , which saves them around 10 to 20 per cent on ingredient costs. Certain meats are still sourced from other countries – wagyu from Japan and chicken from Malaysia – due to government restrictions, but Taiwanese pork has become a staple on Iru Den's menu since chilled and frozen pork products were approved for export to Singapore in November 2024. Such imports were s uspended in 2009 due to an outbreak of f oot-and-mouth disease in Taiwan. However, SFA has since assessed that Taiwan's food safety and animal health systems meet requirements for accreditation. Taiwanese pork is now available in FairPrice supermarkets, and has been well received by customers, according to a FairPrice Group spokesperson. 'Taiwanese pork is particularly suited for Asian cooking and recipes. It is known for its sweet, juicy and tender qualities compared with other pork variations, an apparent result of Taiwan's advanced farming methods and careful selection process when it comes to pig breeding,' adds the spokesperson. Despite its moreish quality, a minority of chef Low's customers have baulked at the prospect of a meal sourced mainly from Taiwan. 'Perception is always going to be a problem. Some people think Japanese food is always the best, and everything else is cheaper,' he says. 'So we know our job is to show them better, more interesting alternatives.' Irish ingredients Irish whelk at Luce's buffet. PHOTO: INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE Ireland is sometimes called 'The Emerald Isle', and for good reason too. Its rolling hills and wide pastures are covered in a lush blanket of green, on which animals graze for an average of 220 days a year. This, in turn, makes for robust grass-fed meat and dairy products packed with nutrients. In the cold, clean waters that surround the island, shellfish such as oysters, whelk, crab and lobsters thrive. Now, such natural abundance is making its way to Singapore in greater volumes. In 2024, Ireland exported €42.5 million (S$63.2 million) worth of products to Singapore, a 10 per cent increase compared with 2023. It was an especially significant jump for Bord Bia, or the Irish Food Board, as many markets in Europe and the United States experience only single-digit growth. The most drastic jumps in export numbers were observed in the pigmeat category, which surged by 1 47 per cent. Dairy and beef exports also rose by around 20 and 30 per cent respectively. 'Singaporean consumers and food service professionals prioritise food safety, traceability and nutritional value – areas in which Irish produce excel, thanks to Ireland's grass-fed farming systems and rigorous quality standards. Irish dairy is prized for its rich flavour and purity, while Irish beef and pork are valued for consistent quality and adherence to strict animal welfare practices,' says Bord Bia's South-east Asia director Lisa Phel an. She credits Singapore's dynamic hospitality and food service sectors for driving demand. Restaurants such as Carnaby at Robertson Quay import Silver Hill Irish Duck, while Bread Street Kitchen at Marina Bay Sands serves cuts of Irish Beef . Bord Bia also runs initiatives such as its Taste of Ireland campaign, which ran from March to April . Despite a slight dip in drink and seafood exports, which fell by 9.3 and 3.6 per cent from 2023 to 2024 respectively, demand for those products has increased steadily over the last decade. Eateries such as Luce at InterContinental Singapore continue to swear by Irish seafood. For the last 1½ years, the buffet restaurant has stuck to Irish whelk, which it favours for its consistent texture and clean, briny flavour with a subtle sweetne ss. InterContinental executive chef Kenny Chung, 43, says these whelks have an exceptionally clean and delicate taste profile. Supply has remained stable too. Likewise, Irish oysters – with their plump texture, clean salinity and refined mineral finish – regularly stream into Singapore. 'Compared with oysters from other regions, Irish oysters are less metallic and more rounded in flavour, making them highly versatile and elegant on the palate,' says Mr Carl Verrelst, 37, operations manager at Italian restaurant Le Pristine Singapore at Grand Hyatt Singapore. The restaurant serves Irish Mor oysters. Ms Phelan says Bord Bia will continue to promote Irish produce through a campaign scheduled near Halloween, which borrows some traditions from the Gaelic festival of Samhain marking the beginning of winter. It will showcase Irish meats, dairy, seafood and snack brands such as Keoghs crisps that are new to Singapore. While clouds of geopolitical uncertainty loom over the food industry and its supply chains, she is choosing to focus on the silver lining. She says: 'We see potential US tariffs as an opportunity for Irish exporters who are heavily invested in the US to diversify their markets and expand into Singapore and South-east Asia.' Japanese wine and cheese New Japanese wines served at Odette. ST PHOTO: AZMI ATHNI Japanese produce is far from foreign to Singaporeans. But while wagyu and sashimi have thoroughly infiltrated Singapore's kitchens, Japanese wine and cheese – traditionally seen as European domains – remain more elusive. That could soon change, with the profile of Japanese wine, in particular, steadily growing. According to the Embassy of Japan in Singapore and the Japan External Trade Organization, the value of such exports to the Republic has risen from 18 million yen (S$157,000) in 2020 to 51 million yen in 2024. 'The number of Japanese winemakers who have studied abroad, including in France, has increased in recent years, leading to rapid improvement in winemaking techniques,' says Mr Takeshi Koga, 42, first secretary (agriculture and food) at the Embassy of Japan in Singapore. He adds that international awards and attention have also boosted awareness of Japanese wines. Whereas in the past, many Japanese wineries struggled with international outreach due to language barriers and limited marketing experience, producers and export managers – many of whom are educated overseas – have started to help bridge that gap, notes Mr Daisuke Shibuya, 44. He is the head sommelier at Terra Tokyo Italian, an Italian-Japanese restaurant in Tras Street. To him, the appeal of Japanese wine lies in its delicate taste. 'In Japan, most grapes grow in volcanic soil, so Japanese wine contains a high level of minerality. The climate is also cooler , like Germany or Austria , so it has a higher acidity, elegant aroma and lighter body.' While temperature fluctuations once made it difficult to preserve this delicacy during travel, reefer containers as well as better storage and handling techniques mean that the infrastructure to ensure safe deliveries is now firmly in place. Odette wine director Vincent Tan takes an exploratory approach to his curation of pairings. ST PHOTO: AZMI ATHNI Which is why Japanese wines can now be found in restaurants such as three-Michelin-starred Odette at National Gallery Singapore. Its wine director Vincent Tan added the first bottles to the French restaurant's menu two years ago, after a trip to Hokkaido in 2023. Of the restaurant's 1,100 wines, 50 or so are from Japan. 'The wine programme was always meant to be more exploratory,' says Mr Tan, 37. 'For wine pairings, we focus on bringing people to regions they might not expect. And I like the idea of using Asian wine in Asia.' He makes it a point not to pair Japanese wine with Japanese-style dishes. A smoked egg dish with potato and chorizo goes with a sweet and rich Niigata pinot noir, for instance, while a langoustine dish is served with a Hokkaido white. So far, guests seem to love it, and some have purchased bottles of Japanese wine to bring home. It is cheaper than European wines too. Mr Tan says a top-of-the-range bottle from Japan is priced in the same ballpark as a mid-tier French wine, as the former does not yet have the history to command a higher figure. Even the Japanese have yet to fully embrace the fruit of their vineyards. Suppliers who import Japanese wine to Singapore have told Mr Tan that they get little business from Japanese restaurants, which still view French and Italian wines as the apex. Mr Koga hopes that recognition in Singapore will help to spur interest back home. 'Japan takes pride in its craftsmanship and quality. But like Lexus or Suntory whisky, many products are valued at home only after earning praise abroad.' He also notes the improving quality of Japanese cheese, though this has proven a harder sell. The value of its Singapore exports has hovered around 21 million yen since 2020, through worldwide demand has inched up from 520 million yen to 608 million yen over the same period. However, some fine-dining restaurants have started to pave the way for this new category of cheese. For example, newly minted one-Michelin-starred restaurant Omakase@Stevens' summer menu features cheddar from Nagano. Executive chef Kazuki Arimoto believes that Japanese cheese has immense potential, but its prevalence is curtailed by the lack of established import channels, which makes distribution to Singapore difficult. 'Japanese cheeses offer a more subtle but robust character – not overpowering, yet deeply flavourful,' says the 31-year-old. 'In my cooking, I strive to showcase the individuality of each cheese while ensuring a harmonious balance in the dish.'
AsiaOne
2 days ago
- AsiaOne
'Proud of what they've done': Jetstar Asia CEO expresses gratitude to crew on airline's final day of operations, Singapore News
After over two decades of service in the region, Singapore-based budget airline Jetstar Asia will operate its final flights on Thursday (July 31). Speaking to the media at Changi Airport Terminal 4 on Thursday, Jetstar Asia's CEO, John Simeone, 56, reflected on the airline's final day, while praising the team behind its success. "It is a sad and emotional day. I've been in the crew lounge since 5.30am this morning to see off all the crew, and I'll be here tonight to welcome our last flight from Manila," Simeone, whose career in aviation spans 26 years, said. The Australian, who took over as CEO in January 2024, reflected on the challenging journey of leading the airline through its final months. "One of the things I'll miss the most is the friendliness and dedication of the crew," he said. "I've found this group of people to be incredibly committed professionals in the aviation industry, and I am so proud of what they have done." Addressing the difficulty of closing the airline, he added: "Breaking the news was exceptionally tough. One of the hardest challenges (as CEO) was telling 550 people that the business would no longer be operating." Despite the bittersweet farewell, Simeone emphasised the importance of celebrating the airline's contributions to the region's aviation landscape. "Jetstar Asia was a pioneer in this aviation landscape in Singapore, one of the first low-cost carriers that was innovative and transformative," he said. Jetstar Asia's final arriving flight from Manila is expected to touch down at around 9.30pm. Following that, it will begin the process of repatriating 13 aircraft back to Australia. About 54 per cent of staff hired On the subject of jobs for the staff, Simeone said about 54 per cent of the staff have either secured new positions or are currently undergoing interviews. Some cabin crew members have found ground roles with Qantas in Singapore, including positions in airport lounges. Around 70 employees will remain in Singapore until the end of October to support regulatory matters, with another 30 staying through December to complete the final closure processes. 'End of an era' For Captain Nico Van Der Schyff, 56, the final day of operations marks not just the end of a chapter, but the end of an era. The South African, who has been with the airline for over a decade, will be in charge for the last flight to Kuala Lumpur. "We've been doing this for 20 years, and to know this is the last time a Jetstar crew will walk out of this building to the aircraft — it's the end of an era, and that is very disappointing," he said. Captain Van Der Schyff recalled joining the airline in its early days and witnessing its growth — not only operationally, but also in becoming a close-knit family. "Since the announcement, (the response) has been incredible. People have given us teddy bears and cards. I'll really miss our Singaporean customers — they've been amazing." Though he originally came to Singapore for just two years, he ended up staying for 20 years. He is planning to go back home by the end of the year, take a break, and pursue his dream of starting an Italian restaurant. Jetstar Asia announced on June 11 that it will be ceasing all operations, citing rising supplier costs, high airport fees and intensified competition in the region as reasons for the closure. It has served over 50 million customers during its two decades of operations. [[nid:720392]]
Straits Times
3 days ago
- Straits Times
In Hiroshima, a schoolboy keeps memories of war alive with guided tours
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox Shun Sasaki, 12, an elementary school student in Hiroshima, guides foreign visitors in English as a volunteer guide at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima, western Japan July 15, 2025. REUTERS/Issei Kato HIROSHIMA, Japan - Since the age of seven, Japanese schoolboy Shun Sasaki has been offering free guided tours to foreign visitors of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park with a mission: ensuring that the horrors of nuclear war do not fade from memory with the passage of time. Aged 12 now, Shun has conveyed that message to some 2,000 visitors, recounting in his imperfect but confident English the experiences of his great-grandmother, a 'hibakusha' who survived the atomic bomb. 'I want them to come to Hiroshima and know about what happened in Hiroshima on August 6,' Shun said in English, referring to the day the bomb was dropped in 1945. 'I want them to know how bad is war and how good is peace. Instead of fighting, we should talk to each other about the good things of each other,' he said. About twice a month, Shun makes his way to the peace park wearing a yellow bib with the words 'Please feel free to talk to me in English!' splashed across the back, hoping to educate tourists about his hometown. His volunteer work has earned him the honour of being selected as one of two local children to speak at the 2025 ceremony to commemorate 80 years since the A-bomb was dropped - its first use in war. Shun is now the same age as when his great-grandmother Yuriko Sasaki was buried under rubble when her house, about 1.5km from the hypocentre, collapsed from the force of the blast. She died of colorectal cancer aged 69 in 2002, having survived breast cancer decades earlier. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Asia US-Malaysia tariff deal set for Aug 1 after Trump-Anwar phone call Asia Malaysia PM Anwar says Trump to attend Asean Summit in October Singapore Underground pipe leak likely reason for water supply issues during Toa Payoh fire: Town council Singapore Driver in 2024 Tampines crash that killed 2 set to plead guilty in October Multimedia 60 years, 60 items: A National Day game challenge Asia US CDC weighs travel notice for China as chikungunya cases rise Singapore Wegovy and beyond: Will weight-loss drugs change the way people look at obesity? Singapore 'Switching careers just as I became a dad was risky, but I had to do it for my family' The uranium bomb instantly killed about 78,000 people and by the end of 1945 the number of dead, including from radiation exposure, reached about 140,000. The US dropped a second atomic bomb on Nagasaki on Aug 9. Canadian Chris Lowe said Shun's guided tour provided a level of appreciation that went beyond reading plaques on museum walls. 'To hear that about his family... it surely wrapped it up, brought it home and made it much more personal. So it was outstanding for him to share that,' he said. Shun said he plans to continue with the tours as long as he can. 'The most dangerous thing is to forget what happened a long time ago… so I think we should pass the story to the next generation, and then, never forget it, ever again.' REUTERS
