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Best cities to visit in Japan for tourists

Best cities to visit in Japan for tourists

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The nation's cities each have their own distinct character and offer unique regional experiences.
Best Japanese city for traditional culture: Kyoto
Kyoto stuns in autumn.
One of the miracles of modern history is that Kyoto was spared the most devastating ravages of World War II and as such it teems with history. You can barely turn a corner without running into a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are over 1600 shrines and temples here with heavy hitters including the Kiyomizudera Temple and Fushimi Inari Shrine. Kyoto is also home to Nija Castle, the Imperial Palace and stunning Japanese gardens like those at Kodaiji Temple and Heian Shrine. We'd even give it the edge over Tokyo in our list of best cities in Japan to travel to. Major festivals include the Aoi Matsuri in May and Gion Matsuri in July. In other words, you must visit Kyoto.
Best Kyoto alternative: Kanazawa
Gardens galore in Kanazawa.
Way less crowded than Kyoto, it has geisha districts such as Higashi Chaya and Kazuemachi, a Ninja Temple complete with traps and secret passages and the Nagamachi Samurai District. Gardenwise, the Kenrokuen is considered one of Japan's Three Great Gardens, complete with serene temples, historic treasures and tea houses.
Best day trip from Kyoto: Nara
Nara Park is famed for its friendly deer.
The first permanent Japanese capital is famed for the hundreds of tourist friendly deer roaming Nara Park but Japan's largest Buddha can also be found at Todai-ji Temple and the serene Kofuku-ji Temple is a stunner.
Best Japanese city for cutting edge modernity: Tokyo
If you've never been, Tokyo - Japan's largest city - it should absolutely be the place to start your Japan trip. The Tokyo Skytree, Shibuya Crossing and quirky street style of Harajuku are just the start of this neon-licked behemoth. It's the contrast between the ultra contemporary and traditional Japan that make this such a beacon, so be sure to also check out the historical sites such as the Senso-ji Temple and Meiji Jingu Shrine. Culturally, the Edo Tokyo Museum, Nezu Museum and modern art at Roppongi Hills should feature on your Japan itinerary as both are among Japan's tourist attractions of note.
In late August, the Koenji Awa-Odori dance festival features roughly 10,000 traditional dancers while early December heralds the arrival of Tokyo Comic Con for sci-fi, fantasy, and anime fans. And the locals commit big time. It's a no brainer but this is undoubtedly one of the best cities in Japan to travel to. Especially if you master all the details of the train stations.
Best Tokyo alternative: Nagoya
Streetside treats in Nagoya.
A centre for all things tech, it's home to Japan's automotive and aerospace industries. Rev heads will love the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology and the SCMAGLEV and Railway Park to sink into a speed fest of bullet trains. It's no slouch in the history department either with Nagoya Castle, Tokugawa Art Museum, Osu Kannon Temple and Atsuta Shrine.
Best day trip from Tokyo: Tokyo Disney Resort
Say konichiwa to Mickey and Minnie.
The Japanese hold a special place in their hearts for Mickey and Co and it shows as this massive theme park about 30 kilometres from the city centre. International visitors throng here because it's just so much fun. Take the train to get there quick. If you want something more serene and slightly off the beaten path, try Nikko with its UNESCO World Heritage Park including the jaw-dropping gardens of Toshogu Jingu, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple. Day trips to Mount Fuji are also an option from Japan's capital and should be on any Japan bucket list if you're up for a bento box of breathtaking scenery. An unforgettable trip. If the weather is clear at Mt Fuji that is.
Best Japanese city for food and nightlife: Osaka
Welcome to bustling Osaka.
Osaka positively thrums with crammed alleyways slinging the best ramen you've ever tasted - try Ramen Hayato in the Kita ward, pulsing nightclubs and oh my goodness, the shopping. Explore the street food and fashion scene in Shinsaibashi Shopping Street, Kuromon Market and Dotonbori. Universal Studios Japan and Nintendo World theme parks are major drawcards, but the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan is also one of the best on the planet. A taste of traditional Japan in this modern city can be found at Osaka Castle, Yasaka Shrine and Hozenji Temple.
Best Osaka alternative: Kobe
Kobe is a cool alternative to Osaka.
A bustling Chinatown, pubs galore and some of the best beef in a country that takes marbling very seriously. Kobe is also home to the Ikuta Shrine which dates from the third century and the cable cars to Mount Rokko provide stellar views. Also check out the famed Arima Onsen.
Best day trip from Osaka: Himeji
Like something out of a film, Himeji Castle soars above the township. Known as the White Heron Castle, it is a prime example of 17th Century architecture and right next door is a virtual catalogue of Edo-era garden styles in the Koko-en.
Best Japanese city for snow sports: Sapporo City
Sapporo city is the hub servicing some of Japan's best ski fields.
Gateway to the ski fields of Hokkaido, Sapporo is about way more than snow though. The Sapporo Beer Museum attests to the city's love of a raucous night out and its umami take on curry is iconic. This is not just a winter destination. The summer landscapes around the Shiretoko Peninsula, Kushiro Marshlands, and Lake Toya are sublime while mid July sees the lavender fields in Furano and Biei explode into life - take the Lavender Express train to see the best of both. Want some autumn foliage pyrotechnics? Check out Sounkyo's Ginga and Ryusei Waterfalls for extraordinary leaves.
Best Sapporo alternative: Niseko
If you want to sample the best of Sapporo but want to be closer to the slopes where skiing is the main priority, Niseko is a snow lovers smorgasbord.
Best day trip from Sapporo: Noboribetsu
Onsen heaven in Norobetsu.
Get your onsen on at this bathing paradise - try the Daiichi Takimotokan - in the middle of volcanic landscapes. This is one seriously rewarding day trip.
Most moving Japanese city: Hiroshima
Hiroshima Castle has endured the city's tragic history.
Having rebuilt after the devastation of a nuclear bomb this modern city carefully calibrates tragic history with a positive and modern outlook. Hiroshima Peace Park is must visit in Japan. Once you've paid your respects at the Atomic Bomb Dome, check out the Shukkei-en Garden with its traditional ponds and teahouse, the Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium for a baseball game (the season runs from April to December) and wander the hiking trails on Mount Misen. You can also explore the Seto Inland Sea from Hiroshima. Here, you'll find the famed Naoshima Island, also known as Art Island, which filled with sculptures, installations, museums and galleries. It is legit one of the most interesting places on the planet.
Best Hiroshima alternative: Nagasaki
Mountains meet the water in Nagasaki.
Less busy than Hiroshima, it too was levelled by an atomic bomb but has recovered profoundly to boast a unique food scene - try the 'washikan kamaboko' fish cakes at the Momokawa restaurant which was established in 1931. Also sip some sake at Tatanbaa.
Best day trip from Hiroshima: Miyajima Island
The Itsukushima Shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed wonder.
Aside from the UNESCO World Heritage listed Itsukushima Shrine with its famous floating gate, the island is populated by wild deer and the Omotesando covered shopping street teems with local crafts and restaurants.
Best Japanese city for nature: Nagano
Nagano is close to Narai-juku, a historic post town along the Nakasendo route.
With the Japan alps at its doorstep, Nagano is one of the most captivating cities in the country. As far as Japan destinations go, you've got the 10 kilometre ancient pilgrimage route of Togakushi Kodo to hike, the Jigokudani Monkey Park with its Japanese macaques (AKA snow monkeys) bathing in the hot springs, the off the beaten path Nagano Art Museum with its dynamic Mist Sculpture and a Ninja theme park. It's not one of the big cities of Japan but it's certainly one of the most popular cities.
Best Nagano alternative: Matsumoto
Matsumoto Castle dates from 1594.
The Matsumoto City Museum is a culture lover's slice of heaven with Yayoi Kusama's Giant Pumpkin taking centre stage. From the contemporary to the past, the Matsumoto Castle is one of the largest wooden buildings in the region with fortifications dating from between 1467 and 1600. You can also take a day trip from Nagano and on the way get a glimpse of rural Japan and its traditional thatched houses.
Best day trip from Nagano: Zenkoji temple
Zenkoji Temple is a striking shrine.
Said to hold the first Buddhist icon brought to Japan via China, this 7th Century temple complex offers temple lodging for an overnight stay that will be a highlight whether it's your first trip or your tenth. Be sure to pop into nearby 2nd street for some of the best thrift shopping in Japan.
When is cherry blossom season?
Generally speaking, you are looking at the last the last week of March to the first week of April for Kyoto, Tokyo, and surrounding regions for sakura season. It's crazy, crowded (especially in early April) but crowds aside it will forever be an excellent reason to visit Japan.
What are the best places to see cherry blossom and autumn foliage in Japan?
Public parks and gardens in Japan are specifically geared for flower viewing known as hanami. Try Ueno Park in Tokyo, Maruyama Park in Kyoto, Osaka Castle Park, Matsumae Park and Goryokaku Fort in Hokkaido, Himeji Castle grounds, and Kawachi Fujien Garden in Kyushu for wisteria flowers (closer to May). Ueno Park in Tokyo, Maruyama Park in Kyoto, Osaka Castle Park, Matsumae Park and Goryokaku Fort in Hokkaido, Himeji Castle grounds, and Kawachi Fujien Garden in Kyushu for wisteria flowers (closer to May).
What island are the Japanese alps on?
Honshu. In summer they offer excellent hiking trails that have become tourist attractions in themselves.
When was the Edo period?
From 1603 to 1868. The Edo Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum is the slightly off the beaten track in the western suburbs of Tokyo and features exquisite gardens among the thatched buildings that characterised this period.
What are the best hot springs to visit in Japan?
For a spread of experiences that go from uber luxe resorts through to traditional onsen towns through to public baths (please read the rules first), try Kinosaki Onsen, Kusatsu Onsens, Beppu Onsen, Hakone Onsen and Yufuin Onsen.
Where is Kyushu island?
Kyushu is the southernmost Japanese island. It has a subtropical climate and its main city of Fukuoka is home to a sparkling blend of top notch shopping, museums and shrines. Bit of everything with the beach an option too.
Originally published as The best cities to visit in Japan on holiday
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Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region
Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region

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Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region

Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. The countryside between Parma and Bologna is the culinary heart of Italy. Sure, Naples, Rome, Milan and Florence all have claims but with world-famous produce like Parmesan Reggiano, Balsamic vinegar, Mortadella and Prosciutto di Parma, and world-famous dishes like lasagne – and the best chocolate ice cream in the world – the region of Emilia Romagna punches well above its weight. A certain world-famous spaghetti dish also bears the capital's name. Embark on an Italian odyssey: Discover the 10 most thrilling destinations to explore Video Player is loading. Play Video This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Text Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Caption Area Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Drop shadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default values Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. X Learn More Loaded : 0.00% 0:00 Close Modal Dialog This is a modal window. This modal can be closed by pressing the Escape key or activating the close button. 00:26 SUBSCRIBER ONLY Embark on an Italian odyssey: Discover the 10 most thrilling destinations to explore more more odyssey as we unveil the top 10 destinations that promise an exhilarating journey through this enchanting country. Prepare to embark on a thrilling Italian...... ... more It is also home to globally recognised chefs Massimo Bottura – the man behind former world No.1 restaurant Osteria Francescana – and locavore champion Massimo Spigaroli from the Michelin-starred Antica Corte Pallavicina. This all makes the medieval cities of Parma, Modena and Bologna a brilliant destination for anyone who likes food and wine, loves history and wants to embrace the area's vibrant way of life. I've been coming here since the 1980s and it still never fails to impress and charm. The landscapes of the Emilia Romagno region are as delightful as its cuisine. One locally revered dish is seldom on visitors' bucket lists. It's a dish of impeccable delicacy and depth that gets lost overseas under the ruckus created by noisier pastas like carbonara and 'matriciana, bolognese and lasagne. 'In Modena if you don't believe in God, you can always believe in tortellini,' Massimo Bottura tells me with a laugh down the line from Italy. When I speak to Massimo Spigaroli, he says: 'The supreme quality of the (local) products used, such as the parmesan cheese, and the ancient knowledge of our land is what makes for the perfect tortellini al brodo.' Tortellini al brodo is a traditional dish claimed by both Bologna and Modena. Tortellini al brodo is claimed as 'theirs' by both Modena and Bologna and sits proudly on most menus of the area. Eating the pasta in no more than the broth is apparently the best way to see the skill of the cook and the required fine-finger technique of the pasta maker's skill. Such is the obsession with doing tortellini al brodo the 'right way' I reckon it's hard to find a bad one – even at a dodgy place behind Bologna's central railway station. This is also held out by local foodies' guides all listing different places to get the best tortellini. I found the tortellini good and al dente but the broth a little salty at the century-old Emilian icon Ristorante Diana, but I loved the version at Drogheria della Rosa. This quirky spot on a quiet side street in Bologna is the perfect place to while away a long lunch. The simplicity of the dish leaves nowhere to hide but the tortellini here are deliciously plump with the umami hit of meat boosted by the aged parmesan also in the filling. (Never sprinkle extra parmesan over the tortellini because it should have enough in it and you'll throw the hard-strived-for balance of the dish.) Drogheria della Rosa is Matt Preston's choice for tortellini in Bologna. Luck has a hand in me finding a fine tortellini al brodo in Modena. We're dragging our cases from the train station to our accommodation when a yellow sign in a nondescript suburban street hoves into view. Trattoria Ermes opened in 1963, and the late chef and owner Ermes Rinaldi became a giant of Modenese cuisine. The restaurant he left still is. Amazingly they have one table left for lunch. The dining room is tiny; communal tables with red-checked tablecloths are packed and the vibe is boisterous. The set menu changes each lunch but thankfully today is a tortellini al brodo day and there's a €12 bottle of local lambrusco on the table – it's the most expensive on the list – suggested by winemakers having a long, fraternal and raucous lunch at a nearby table. The €10 bowl of pasta has a broth that is clean but rich, and the tortellini are suitably half and half meat and pasta. This is the sort of honest cookery that I travel for and while their stewed tripe might be a little too rustic for some, escalopes of pork finished with balsamic vinegar are such a hit that it's a recipe I now make at home. Cavallino restaurant at the Ferrari Factory at Maranello. Another fine choice for tortellini in Modena is Cavallino, the restaurant overseen by Massimo Bottura at the Ferrari Factory at Maranello. The tortellini here is handmade by children and adults on the autism spectrum in a social workshop project called Il Tortellante that's been running for almost a decade – the project says this traditional, precise but repetitive process helps instil traditional skills, confidence and a sense of inclusion. The students' mentors are local nonnas who in Modena are revered with the title rezdora… 'she who rolls'. They are highly valued as the custodians and teachers of the ancient local culinary ways of which tortellini is paramount. I ask Massimo Spigaroli for his favourite tortellini outside home and he points to Osteria di Fornio, a simple rustic restaurant 10 minutes outside Fidenza. It immediately goes on my bucket list. Originally published as Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region

I cruised Scandinavia with Viking, here's all your questions answered
I cruised Scandinavia with Viking, here's all your questions answered

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I cruised Scandinavia with Viking, here's all your questions answered

Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. As the sound of birch leaves slapping bare skin fills the sauna we exchange alarmed glances. Our nordic bathing ritual started gently enough, with dry skin brushing before alternating between getting steamed in the sauna and rubbing snow over our hot skin in the snow grotto. But now that our spa therapist has started thwacking us with birch twigs, things have taken a turn. When it's my turn to stand with my hands high on the sauna glass in my swimmers, bare legs and back to the group, I soon discover a birch twig's bark is worse than its bite. It feels almost like a leafy caress and as the birch scent fills the sauna it adds to the sensory experience. Why Norway should be the next place you travel Video Player is loading. Play Video This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Text Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Caption Area Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Opacity Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Drop shadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default values Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. X Learn More Loaded : 54.38% 0:00 00:00 / 00:00 Close Modal Dialog This is a modal window. This modal can be closed by pressing the Escape key or activating the close button. 00:18 SUBSCRIBER ONLY Why Norway should be the next place you travel natural...... more more beauty and cultural richness, beckons travellers from around the world to explore its captivating landscapes and unique heritage. Norway, a land of awe-inspiring ... more Passengers cruising on Viking's ocean ships around the world can use the sauna, snow grotto, hot tubs and cold water plunge pools in LivNordic spas for the guided group experience I opted for, or enjoy their own independent hot and cold routine. It seems particularly apt that we're doing it where it all began – on a Viking Homelands cruise in Norway, where by the end of the voyage I'm tipping a bucket of cold water over myself after getting out of a hot tub in a not to be repeated 'when in Scandinavia' moment. I may have been to Scandinavia before but this is the first time I've travelled by ocean ship and it's a journey that is taking me back to some of my favourite spots in the world as well as introducing me to places I've always wanted to visit. Here's what you can expect when you set sail on the 15-day Viking Homelands cruise. Sailing into Stockholm, one of the world's most beautiful harbours. Picture: Amanda Woods Where did the cruise go? After sailing out of Viking Jupiter's port of registry in Bergen we visited towns and cities in Denmark, Germany, Poland and Estonia before sailing into one of the most spectacular harbours in the world in Stockholm. Highlights included cruising through majestic fjords in Norway, the Baltic beauties of Gdansk and Tallinn, and exploring city and market town life in Denmark's Copenhagen and Rønne. Sunset in Tallinn, Estonia, one of the ports on the Viking Homelands cruise. What was the ship like? Modern Scandinavian with lots of sleek lines, light wood, woven textiles and the occasional reindeer hide, over eight main decks plus a small sports deck. Viking ships are happily casino-free zones with lots of comfy spaces from which to watch the world go by, and Viking Jupiter is one of the few ships in the world to have a planetarium. The Explorers' Dome seats 26 and with only a few live talks from the ship's astronomer tickets can be hard to get. After missing out I book a seat in the Dome to watch the Experience the Aurora documentary instead. The all-veranda cabins, including our Deluxe Veranda Stateroom, start at 25sq m and include generous bathrooms with heated floors, seats for two on the balcony, 24-hour room service and a mini bar with soft drinks and snacks replenished daily. The Explorers' Dome, a high-tech planetarium. How many people were on board? Viking Jupiter carries a maximum of 930 adults and no children thanks to its 18-year-old minimum age limit. Ship guests came from nine nationalities, while the very multicultural and so lovely I didn't want to say goodbye crew was made up of 64 nationalities. Eighty per cent of guests were American but other passengers included Brits, Canadians and Irish, along with 78 Australians. What can you do on board? Viking leans into their 'thinking person's cruise' theme with interesting lectures on local history, art, architecture and geopolitics as well as talks by the ship's resident astronomer in the theatre. At night the theatre switches into entertainment mode with performances by special guests and skipping down memory lane shows by the Viking Jupiter Vocalists. You can work out in the gym, relax in the spa, take dips under the retractable roof in the indoor pool and soak in the indoor or outdoor hot tub. And on special nights you can watch movies and dance under the stars by the pool. Eidfjord, Norway, viewed from the ship's sports deck. Picture: Amanda Woods What are the excursions like? Our Viking cruise had at least one complimentary shore excursion in every port and I enjoyed them all. Included excursions are mostly walking tours and scenic drives to interesting spots, while paid excursions go deeper into a destination and can include castle and museum tours, cycling, sailing and taking to the sky in seaplanes and helicopters. How about the food? Whether you're in the mood for the tastes of Scandinavia or a more familiar dish from home this cruise has you covered. And apart from the $US99 ($151) kitchen table experience, every meal from the buffet to the speciality Manfredi's Italian and Chef's Table restaurants is included. In the main dining venues, The Restaurant and World Café, the regional specialities change daily. In the Pool Grill casual bites and an excellent ahi tuna steak are always on offer, while Mamsen's is where you can enjoy Norwegian specialities including brown cheese on heart-shaped waffles. I also loved the pop-up cooking stations, including Norwegian hot dogs on the Aquavit Terrace. And if you can somehow fit it in, afternoon tea is served with live classical music in the Wintergarden. Gjetost (brown cheese) on waffles from Mamsen's, the ship's Norwegian deli. Picture: Amanda Woods Did you get pampered in the spa? You bet. Along with my nordic bathing ritual I signed up for a signature Northern Stillness treatment where I was blissed out during a full body massage, body scrub, blueberry body mask and scalp treatment. While I did add a tip, no gratuities are automatically charged in this floating spa. Did you see the Northern Lights? No, but I have seen them every other time I've been on a ship in Scandinavia so you never know your luck with the aurora gods. The writer travelled as a guest of Viking Cruises. The 15-day Viking Homelands journey from Bergen to Stockholm (or vice versa) is priced from $12,095pp twin share. Originally published as I cruised Scandinavia with Viking, here's all your questions answered

Dimboola is the tiny town that's become Australia's capital of quirk
Dimboola is the tiny town that's become Australia's capital of quirk

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Dimboola is the tiny town that's become Australia's capital of quirk

Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. Riding to the Never Never is a song from the soundtrack of the 1979 film Dimboola and also an accurate description of my four-hour drive from Melbourne to its namesake town. A place I've never never been despite almost a lifetime living in Victoria. The reason I'm finally visiting Dimboola is because I keep hearing that this wheatbelt town, population 1600, is defying the rural decline and having something of a revival. I also keep hearing about The Imaginarium. Housed in the former National Bank of Australasia (built – appropriately given our theme – in the Renaissance style), The Imaginarium is an extraordinary curiosity shop filled with unique gifts and a giant giraffe whose head almost brushes the 4.5m pressed-tin ceilings. Upstairs there are five guest bedrooms decorated in distinct styles; I'm staying in the Italian room with its jewel-coloured Venetian-glass chandelier and assortment of busts, cherubs and crucifixes. If that sounds a bit quirky, well … welcome to Dimboola. Chan Uoy in Dimboola's Imaginarium. Picture: Visit Victoria The creative forces behind the Imaginarium are Chan and Jamie Uoy (pronounced Oi, as in 'Aussie Aussie Aussie'), Melbourne restaurateurs who made the tree change in 2019. 'The first time I came to Dimboola I felt like I'd entered the twilight zone,' says Cambodian-born Chan, who arrived in Australia as a child refugee in the late 1970s and, last November, was elected deputy mayor of Hindmarsh Shire Council. 'There was no one around!' So the couple decided to create something to boost tourism and lure folks off the Melbourne-Adelaide highway. Enter The Imaginarium. 'We wanted a place that stimulates your mind and your imagination,' Chan says. I could write an entire article about the Imaginarium and the energy and ideas of this dynamic duo – Chan is also the founder of the Wimmera Steampunk Festival, the region's biennial 'carnival of peculiarities', – but there's so much else happening in Dimboola. I want to give credit where it's due. Owners Chan and Jamie Uoy at the Dimboola Imaginarium. Picture: Alex Coppel. New arrivals to the main street of Dimboola include The Forbidden Forest, a showroom of fairytale-inspired spaces conceived by Melbourne transplants Shane and Kylie Harman. Wander through Hansel & Gretel's Candy Haus, Jack & His Beanstalk Farm, The Witches' Lair and more. Each an elaborate stage set where everything, from games and toys, lollies and giftware, is for sale. 'The one big thing we find here is all the businesses work together,' says Shane. 'And because we own our shops, we're the people you see and talk to,' says Kylie. Across the road, Deb Howlett and Mark Gebhardt have opened That Little Vintage Shop with curated sections for men's and women's wear, haberdashery, millinery and kitchenware. Think of it as 'David Jones but with old stuff', says Deb. 'My shop is pretty quirky and not everyone accepts that, but here quirky is the norm.' She assures me that if the rain wasn't tipping down this late-July weekend, 'the street would be chockers'. Potter George Khut in his studio with works by his students. Picture: Kendall Hill Sydney expat George Khut opened Dimboola Pottery this winter in the old CFA shed and now operates a busy roster of four classes a week for the 'clay-curious' and plans to open a gallery showcasing his ceramic creations. He says he knew straight away Dimboola was the right place for him. 'It's affordable here and the community of shopkeepers have been really inviting.' Pop in also to Dimboola Vintage, a trove of gadgets and mechanical wonders, and grab a coffee at Dimboola Store, but try to avoid the Sunday brunch queues. Elsewhere in town, chef Cat Clarke has pimped out the kitchen at the Dimboola Golf Club to run a Thursday-to-Sunday restaurant on the banks of the Wimmera River. I loved the time-warped interiors of burnt orange and brown and her roasted duck with karkalla and muntries jus. 'I just cook with fresh produce ... and bush foods, the oldest ingredients around,' she says. Chef Cat Clarke at Dimboola Golf Club. Picture: Kendall Hill Meanwhile, at the Victoria Hotel, I have a juicy Angus scotch fillet with garlic mash and gravy in The Elbow Room, the one-time ladies lounge now a low-lit den strewn with Chesterfields, upright pianos and artworks. Owners Stoph and Meran Pilmore took over the century-old institution 10 years ago when the pub was mint green with laminate tables. Stoph says Dimboola has 'bucked the trend' of dying country towns and points to initiatives such as Wimmera's Silo Art Trail, said to be Australia's largest outdoor gallery, as driving the tourism boom. Opening soon, a main-street microbrewery called Frank Fox, and the Wimmera River Discovery Trail linking Little Desert and Wyperfeld national parks. Stage one, a walking and cycling path between Dimboola and Jeparit, will launch next month. Just one of many reasons to ride to the Never Never. The Wimmera River, Dimboola. Picture: Visit Victoria The writer travelled courtesy of Visit Victoria. Don't miss this Down the road from Dimboola I spent a wonderful wet morning with volunteers at the Wimmera Mallee Pioneer Museum, a collection of historic buildings crammed with displays of everything bygone, from agricultural machinery to domestic paraphernalia. A must-see. Originally published as Dimboola is the tiny town that's become Australia's capital of quirk

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