Every time I go to Bangkok, these are the first things I eat, see and visit

The Advertiser

09-05-2025

Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels