Every time I go to Bangkok, these are the first things I eat, see and visit
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
Do you have a ritual when you arrive at a favourite destination? I do. In Italy, one of the first things I do when I arrive in the country is head to the nearest bar so I can stand at the counter, drink an espresso and eavesdrop on the conversation.
Often, that first coffee is in the humble surrounds of the train station, one of the most fascinating places to observe Italian life. This first coffee helps me get my bearings and settle into the sights, sounds and smells of Italy. Like Proust's madeleine, it triggers a wealth of memories and the giddy possibility of making more.
In Istanbul, my ritual is a walk down to the Galata Bridge so I can see the Bosphorus Strait and the outline of the city's domes and minarets. In Athens, I haven't really arrived until I've eaten my first plate of grilled fish with chips at the crowded central market.
In Marrakech, no matter what time I get there, I'll dump my bags and head straight up to the roof of my riad to look over the dusky pink buildings that make up the medina skyline.
Even in Australia, if I haven't watched the ferries coming into Circular Quay, I don't feel I've really been to Sydney. And at our family's favourite spot on the NSW South Coast, walking down the hill from our rental to the Pambula River to sit by the water is the sign that we are finally on holiday. It's like saying hello to an old friend.
The anticipation of the specific unique pleasure that only one place can bring is part of the joy of travel.
And even in a new place, I'm gathering experiences as I go. By the time I've left there's inevitably one thing, one place, or one experience that will forever define that destination for me.
In Thailand, that defining experience, the sign that I have really arrived, is eating my first plate of kao niew mamuang, or mango sticky rice.
Thailand's ubiquitous snack, the dish is elegant in its simplicity - a fresh cheek of ripe mango, warm sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, a salted coconut sauce and toasted mung beans for crunch.
It might change slightly with the seasons and in various parts of the country, but it is universally delicious and beloved by Thais and tourists alike.
Although it has a long history in Thai cuisine - dating back to the kingdom's Ayutthaya period - it also makes clever use of Thailand's produce: 1.4 million tonnes of mangoes are grown in Thailand each year and no country produces more sticky rice. Order mango sticky rice and you'll be eating a taste of Thailand.
For me, the appeal is in the freshness of a thick wedge of mango in the sticky Thai heat, and the pleasure of standing in the street or sitting on a stool watching the world go by as I eat. It might even be one of the first opportunities to exchange a few basic words of Thai after arriving in Bangkok.
Mango sticky rice is ubiquitous. You can buy it everywhere, from cafes to fine dining restaurants, markets and street stalls. I'm not the only person obsessed with mango sticky rice, there are almost as many guides to where to buy it as there are tourists.
When I was in Thailand recently, you could even find it pre-packed at the airport. I might buy a pack there if I was really desperate, but I prefer to enjoy it in more atmospheric surroundings. Here are three of my all-time favourites.
Thong Lor is my favourite Bangkok neighbourhood and the Mae Varee fruit store is one of the reasons I like it so much. Mae Varee is close to the Thong Lor BTS station, so even if you're not staying locally it's not difficult to get there. You can't miss the store either.
With large decorative mangoes hanging from the windows and elaborate displays of fresh tropical fruit outside, Mae Varee is clearly a member of the 'do one thing and do it well' club. Inside the store there's more tropical fruit and lavish fruit-based gift baskets.
Your mango sticky rice comes in a package to go and as there aren't many seats nearby, you'll have to eat it on the run. Queues often form, so it pays to be patient (or get there early).
WHERE: 1 Thong Lor, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
Bangkok can get intense, not in a White Lotus Sam Rockwell monologue way, but because of the sticky heat, pollution, noise and crowds. Bang Krachao, an undeveloped green oasis in the middle of the Chao Phraya river is the perfect antidote.
Take a river taxi to the pier, hire a bike and explore the paths that criss-cross the island, which inevitably lead to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park gardens and, if you're there on a weekend, the floating markets, which are not really floating, but by the water.
Browse the stalls then pick up some mango sticky rice and relax in the shade at the public tables, before heading back into the Bangkok bustle. It's heaven.
WHEN: Weekends only
The only mango sticky rice producer to get a mention in the Bangkok Michelin guide, Kor Panich was founded in 1927 and uses a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. Located near the Grand Palace, it's rumoured even the royal family has been known to visit. When mangoes are out of season, try the shop's other traditional Thai desserts such as sticky rice filled with banana or a coconut custard. Stools outside the store mean you can eat in comfort while watching the world go by.
WHERE: 431-433 Tanao Road, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok
The writer travelled to Bangkok as a guest of Minor Hotels
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If you're a fan of a killer view, you'll love the panoramic one from the roof-top bar of the hotel over the Brisbane River and CBD. The Crystalbrook Vincent is carved into a sandstone cliff under the Story Bridge, and you can stroll right straight out of the lobby and into Brisbane's best new entertainment and dining precinct, the Howard Smith Wharves. You can also choose between rooms cocooned into a rock, or rooms with views over the city. 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane City. Phone: 1300 002 050. See From $295 a night. Emporium Hotel Perfect for: Couples and families who want to feel spoiled There's 143 suites with river views set in Brisbane's premier arts and leisure precinct, South Bank (across the river from the CBD). There's also an infinity pool on the roof-top, beside restaurants and bars with views over the entire city. Or you could lash out on one of Australia's fanciest penthouses, The Parklands Suite, which has four bedrooms, three bathrooms, three dining rooms, a 15-metre infinity pool and a wrap-around balcony on the 21st floor of the hotel. It comes with an Ambassador (think: a butler who doesn't stay in your room). Novotel South Bank Perfect for: Families keen to keep the kids busy The Novotel South Bank offers something for every traveller – especially those with small children. Parents have plenty of options staying in the heart of Brisbane's cultural precinct, a short walk from the city. But kids are particularly well catered for, with an outdoor racetrack for electric cars, an outdoor pool with all manner of pool toys, a Lego butler who can deliver Lego any time of the day or night, a kids' mini bar and teepees set up in the junior suites of each family suite with lots of games – the perfect haven for kids to escape to. Spicers Balfour Hotel Perfect for: Couples escaping to the city Spicers Retreats offer rural sanctuaries in some of Australia's prettiest regions - this is the city version, following the same philosophies. Located in the chic inner-city suburb of New Farm, the hotel offers nine rooms within an historic Queenslander, and eight suites within an Art Deco building next door. Both have access to a roof-top bar with a honesty drinks system, and one of the city's most fancied Vietnamese restaurants, Balfour Kitchen & Bar. You're a two-minute stroll from cafes, restaurants, bars and boutiques - but when you're home, hide in your private little world. 37 Balfour Street, New Farm. Phone: 1300 597 540. See From $395 a night. Hotel X Perfect for: Foodie and art loving couples Look out for the huge white geometric façade – but what would you expect of a hotel in Brisbane's hippest neighbourhood, Fortitude Valley. Don't worry: this place isn't at all pretentious, even its roof-top restaurant, Iris, Brisbane's trendiest roof-top venue, is gloriously free from attitude. Book a suite to secure an outdoor terrace overlooking the city, there's artwork on every wall and a French bistro and bar in the lobby. Hotel X is proof (if you needed it) that Brisbane has truly come-of-age culturally. The James Street Precinct is a two minute walk away. 458 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley. Phone: 07 3519 1000. See From $346 a night. Tangalooma Island Resort Perfect for: A family holiday combining city and sand Brisbane is home to over 350 islands set in Moreton Bay – consider them Queensland's most under-rated (semi) tropical islands. Take a 75 minute fast catamaran ride from the city and you'll find one of the best family accommodation options in Brisbane. Set on the world's second-largest sand island (Moreton Island), Tangalooma Island Resort offers families beaches, snorkelling over shipwrecks, sand toboganning, whale watching tours and hand-feeding wild dolphins. It's an easy escape after or before a city vacation for families who like a bit of everything when they travel. Moreton Island. Phone: 1300 652 250. See From $239 a night. Adina Apartment Hotel Perfect for: Couples and families who might like to eat in Here's a hotel in the heart of the city which suits everyone from families to couples on a romantic break. Built within a 1920s government bank building, you'll enter via an old bank chamber that doubles as a lobby with dramatic high ceilings, marble floors, columns and timber panels. Your room has a kitchen to keep costs down, although there's a Donna Chang restaurant downstairs with a Chef's Hat rating that's mighty tempting. You'll also get great cocktails at the Boom Boom Room and you can do laps, or catch some sun rays, at a heated pool open to the Queensland sky. The Calile Perfect for: Couples that want it all Pinch us, are we in Beverly Hills? This is the hotel that really put Brisbane on the map. It's more an inner-city resort than a hotel, rooms are all oriented around a 30-metre-long swimming pool encircled by cabanas, palm trees and one of Queensland's best restaurants, Hellenika. It's quite a scene here – but while some of the guests strut, there's no hint of pretense from friendly staff. Located in the heart of Brisbane's hip James Street precinct, if you make it past your hotel, you'll find the city's best bars, boutiques and restaurants just outside. 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: 07 3607 5888. See From $476 a night. Hotel Indigo Perfect for: Couples who want culture at a good price Only the second of its kind for the boutique-hipster brand. Built beside the river in North Quay on the edge of the city, this is what you'd call an art hotel, though it doesn't go overboard and become a museum. Art hits you before you even enter – there's a 16-storey mural on the outside of the building. There's also murals painted by local artists in the lobby, as well as sculptures and suspended overhead installations. You'll love its on-site Japanese restaurant, Izakaya Publico, while its speak-easy bar, 1603, is one of the better hotel bars in Brisbane. 27/35 Turbot Street, City. Phone: 07 3237 2330. See From $337 a night. The Inchcolm Perfect for: Guests who like nostalgia with convenience The Inchcolm epitomises Brisbane's evolution; it feels part big country town with its martini bar where strangers chat to each other, but it's very city-chic too, with its enormous open-walled bar that doubles as reception and hip art deco touches throughout. Located on the edge of the CBD in Brisbane's leafy Spring Hill beside Fortitude Valley's endless night-time entertainment options, every room is individually decorated with a nod to its century-old heritage, but with enough modern touches to keep it cutting-edge. 73 Wickham Terrace, Spring Hill. Phone: 07 3226 8888. See From $290 a night. W Brisbane Perfect for: Couples and families who like style – with oodles of home comforts This is one of Australia's best hotels for the simple reason: it feels nice being here. It cost $800 million to build and was the first W Hotel to open in Australia, but despite a resident in-house DJ keeping the tunes playing throughout the hotel and a décor that looks like a lounge bar in New York, it feels about as comfy as home. Though your home probably doesn't have a bar like The Wet Deck, an open-air venue set around a swimming pool where you can watch the sun set over Mt Coot-tha, or a restaurant like The Lex, which channels all the dark, moody atmosphere of a classic New York City steakhouse.
