Beyond Bourbon Street: A Whirlwind Week in New Orleans
Whimsical architecture blends French, Spanish and Caribbean styles, from colorful Creole townhouses to charmingly narrow 'shotgun' homes with Victorian touches. Airbnb might be your first thought for a stay, but the hospitality-driven services at area hotels make a getaway feel a bit more special. There are plenty of Vegas-y accommodations here as gambling is legal, Caesars and Boomtown being the most popular. For my trip, the One11 Hotel is a perfect choice. Just outside the French Quarter, the small boutique destination is housed in a century-old former sugar refinery and features exposed brick walls, wood beams and large steel structural bones. Melding its industrial past with its trendy present, it's got a great bar — including happy hour — and continental breakfast in the morning, plus an 8th-floor deck with scenic views of the Mississippi River.
New Orleans has always conjured exotic images and alluring activities that piqued my imagination. Voodoo, ghosts, cemeteries, swamps, the bayou, art, music, bars … all are on my to-do list. I start with historic graveyard environments — the Metairie Cemetery, where Vampire author Anne Rice is entombed inside a beautiful stained glass-adorned mausoleum, and the Greenwood Cemetery, featuring an array of historic Civil War monuments. Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau is interred in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, the city's oldest, which many consider NOLA's most haunted grounds. Speaking of spooky stuff, voodoo dolls make cute souvenirs, and I snatch some great ones at the Voodoo Museum and Voodoo Authentica, which also sell other mystical merch. In the French Quarter, on Magazine Street and in the Garden District, a host of unique mom-and-pop shops and fascinating exteriors beckon from every corner. A jaunt to the Hotel Saint Vincent reveals a classic Southern Gothic environment and two thematic cocktail spaces, one red-hued and sexy, the other green, bright and friendly.
Considered the birthplace of jazz, NOLA might have more musicians per capita than anywhere in the world. For an authentic immersion into its instrumental soul, visit Preservation Hall, where local legends go to jam. In general, though, NOLA residents steer clear of Bourbon Street and go to bars on Frenchman Street. Also in the Garden District, there's Tipitina's famous for Cajun and Zydeco music as well as fais do-do dancing; and the , not far from Tulane University, which also draws a college crowd. There are also street players everywhere, including the French Market, a farmers market for locals and tourists alike with food, art and activities.A visit to the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) reflects the city's spirit as well, with an impressive showcase of international and local works, including, through Aug. 10, 'New African Masquerades: Artistic Innovations and Collaborations,' a collection that feels very Mardi Gras-adjacent in terms of costuming and pageantry. I also recommended the on the museum grounds for a lovely and eye-grabbing statue-specked art stroll.
When the Super Bowl was at Caesars Superdome (home of the New Orleans Saints) in February, NOLA got a lot of attention, especially for its dining scene. Fanciful French eaterie Lilette is where Travis Kelce and Taylor Swift had a hot date night, so my partner and I follow suit, enjoying the white-tablecloth hotspot's succulent steaks and inviting atmosphere. The next night, the old-school scene at Brennan's in the Quarter is even more my speed. The pink-and-green-schemed restaurant is where the iconic Bananas Foster dessert was invented, and the tableside demo/history lesson is fiery fun. My favorite dining discovery, the Vampire Apothecary, makes for a fanciful lunch, delicious sandwiches and soothing tea drinks amid seductive decor like dried flowers and witchy natural furnishings. NOLA staples like spicy beet-pickled eggs are served with Vampire brand tea to wash it down.
Also deserving of note, though I couldn't fit them in this time: Deanie's Seafood in the Quarter for crawfish; , which nurtured chefs Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse and is renowned for its weekend Jazz Brunch and 25-cent martinis on certain weekdays; Antoine's, founded in 1840, the oldest restaurant in the city; and Algiers Central Market, home of the muffaletta, an Italian sandwich made with round sesame seed bread, cured meats, provolone and mozzarella and a tangy olive salad spread.New Orleans allows drinking in public, and you'll see a lot of it on Bourbon Street via plastic drinking vessels, often from Pat O'Brien's, which created the notorious Hurricane. (Cannabis, though, is still illegal.) But beyond touristy takeout sippers, a bar tour is a must, whether you're looking for dive vibes or award-winning mixology.
Jewel of the South, which won the James Beard Foundation's award for best bar program, is aptly named, while Latitude 29, makes the tastiest tiki drinks in town, as created by the king of tropical cocktails — Beachbum Berry. For down-and-dirty atmosphere, locals love , a dark hovel with a heavy metal soundtrack, with live music and campy themes nightly, and , a gritty and gregarious hangout with a free jukebox that rocks, which is where I end the whirlwind week.It all goes by far too fast, and I still feel like I'm under the city's spell, which is likely to pull me back sooner than later. In the meantime, here are a few more Big Easy bullet points to note for your next trip, below.
- Get an up-close and personal look at the local swamps and gators! - Like San Francisco's cable cars, they're an exciting and organic way to travel around the city. (The St. Charles line is the one featured in A Streetcar Named Desire). - Family fun with botanical gardens, rides and more.The National WWII Museum - Everything you ever wanted to see and learn about World War II in one mind-blowing, multi-building facility. - The creamiest sno-cones you'll ever get a brain freeze from, and where all the locals go. Prepare to wait in a long line.Drive-Thru Daiquiris- There are plenty of walk-up outlets, but for a cold buzz in your car, roll though a drive-thru. A version of this story appeared in the May Travel issue of Los Angeles magazine, on stands now.
See the photo gallery below for images of everything mentioned above and much more. (Photos 1-14 by Lina Lecaro; photo 15-37 courtesy Visit New Orleans.
View the 37 images of this gallery on the original article
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