At Raisefashion, Supporting Underrepresented Designers at the Forefront of Sustainable Fashion

Business of Fashion

19-05-2025

In 2025, sustainability has decreased in priority for fashion businesses, with only 18 percent of executives surveyed for The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Co.'s The State of Fashion 2025 report citing it as a top-three risk for growth in 2025 — compared to 29 percent in 2024.
This downward trend reflects an overarching row back on sustainability initiatives, with most companies lagging on their environmental targets and investments — despite accelerations of regulatory reform, mounting costs of non-compliance and the climate crisis remaining an imminent global threat.
Consequently, emerging designers and the next generation of fashion entrepreneurs are driving the sustainability agenda today — but these brands continue to face significant hurdles achieving visibility, access, funding and wider support in the macro-economic environment of 2025. These challenges are further magnified for brand founders from underrepresented communities: the share of US startup funding going to companies with Black founders hit a multi-year low in 2024, with about $730 million — or 0.4 percent of all funding — reaching this demographic, according to Crunchbase News.
'The challenges designers face aren't just complex. They're layered, deeply personal and often invisible to the outside world,' said Felita Harris, the executive director and co-founder of the non-profit organisation Raisefashion, at a recent panel discussion in New York.
Raisefashion launched in July 2020 in a bid to improve accessibility for underrepresented designers in the fashion industry while fostering a more equitable new generation of brands. Ninety percent of the entrepreneurs and designers on the Raisefashion programme are running sustainability-oriented businesses.
The non-profit is focused on ensuring that designers in its programme are not only supported but poised for success in an industry increasingly shaped by conscious consumerism. In so doing, Raisefashion has launched a brand fellowship this year, supporting eight BIPOC designers — each of whom has the opportunity to receive a grant ranging from $10,000 to $15,000, along with hands-on training focused on building a successful brand positioned for long-term operational growth.
Raisefashion's advisory platform is at the heart of its mission and connects emerging designers with a network of over 400 industry experts across creative, merchandising, operations and business development. It provides personalised guidance, fosters community-building initiatives and ensures BIPOC designers are equipped with the strategic support they need to thrive. Felita Harris, Raisefashion's executive director and founding board member. (RaiseFashion)
Raisefashion's advisory services sits at the heart of its mission, rooted in the understanding that underrepresented founders often face systemic barriers to the guidance, insights and mentorship necessary to grow a successful fashion business.
To further this commitment, Raisefashion recently launched it Advisory Platform — a members-only digital ecosystem designer to offer real-time access to over hundreds of seasons professionals across merchandising, buying, operations and business development. The platform delivers personalised guidance, curated connections and a strong sense of community — ensuring that underrepresented designers have the tools, relationships and support they need to thrive.
Additionally, mental health is another critical component of Raisefashion's approach, recognising that the pressures of entrepreneurship — exacerbated by systemic barriers — can often lead to burnout and instability. By confronting these issues head-on, Raisefashion emphasises that true sustainability extends beyond production and materials, and encompasses the wellbeing of individuals and support systems behind a brand's success.
Now, BoF sits down with Harris to explore how the organisation is evolving, the impact of its ongoing initiatives and what's next for its growing community of designers.
As sustainability is deprioritised by executives, how are emerging designers stepping up?
At Raisefashion, sustainability isn't just a principle — it's a core practice embedded in how our designer's work. Over 90 percent of our masterclass designers source ethically and sustainably, using small-batch production, deadstock materials, local sourcing and artisan-led techniques. For many BIPOC and underrepresented founders, these approaches are born out of necessity due to limited access to traditional infrastructure, capital and large-scale production.
These designers are not only practicing sustainability but are actively shaping what it means. Yet, they remain largely excluded from the wider conversation, absent from conferences, award platforms and policy discussions that determine the future of fashion. While some established brands are stepping back from sustainability under economic pressure, these emerging designers are setting new standards. If the industry is serious about building a truly sustainable future, it must do more than acknowledge emerging leaders — it must invest in them.
Why is sustainability a key criterion within the Raisefashion programme?
Our mission is to empower designers to build businesses that reflect their identities and values — businesses designed for longevity, relevance and impact. The designers we support are thinking globally, not just locally, and their work carries both cultural depth and universal resonance. Sustainability is central to that vision.
It's not just about environmental practices — it's about building ethical, emotionally grounded and financially sound businesses. At Raisefashion, we see sustainability as a holistic framework that includes environmental responsibility, transparent production and founder wellbeing. When done right, it becomes a growth strategy — and proof that values-driven brands can compete and lead on a global scale.
What are the main challenges faced by designers in the programme?
The consistent challenge we hear about is access — to capital, retail partnerships, operational expertise, marketing support and consumers who not only purchase but believe in the brand. But access isn't just about opportunity. It's also about proximity, trust and a clear path forward.
For BIPOC and underrepresented founders, these barriers are deeper and more systemic, shaped by a lack of generational wealth, limited networks and historic exclusion. The issue isn't talent or vision — it is navigating an industry not built with them in mind, that too often expects legacy-brand performance without legacy-brand resources.
If the industry is serious about building a truly sustainable future, it must do more than acknowledge emerging leaders — it must invest in them.
Raisefashion exists to shift that dynamic. Our goal isn't just to open doors but to walk through them alongside our designers. Through strategic support, education, and community, we help them build the language, tools and systems needed to scale on their own terms. Equity isn't about offering a platform — it's about changing the conditions that determine who gets to stay on it.
What industry changes could help create a more equitable and accessible environment for BIPOC creatives?
Commitment to equity must go beyond language — it must live in budgets, infrastructure and long-term strategy. The industry is good at creating moments, but moments alone won't build futures. We need systems, from dedicated shelf space to long-term mentorships, operational support and sustained marketing investment.
Community investment should be standard — not as charity, but as shared responsibility. Underrepresented designers should not only be included during cultural campaigns, awareness months, or when the industry deems it timely. They should be funded, supported and scaled because their businesses are viable and visionary.
True equity means giving underrepresented creatives time, trust, education and the space to grow without the pressure to mirror legacy models. The industry must partner in a way that reflects accountability. We all need to ask, 'If it were me, what would I want?' From there, we should act accordingly.
How are macro-economic pressures impacting emerging designers when scaling their businesses?
Emerging designers are facing a perfect storm — rising production costs, supply chain disruptions, slower retail cycles, shifting consumer behaviours and extended net terms from retailers who once partnered with upfront deposits or Net 30. These compounding pressures make it increasingly difficult for independent brands to sustain growth and meet demand without compromising their creative integrity or financial stability.
It's not just about business — it's the message we're sending to the next generation of talent. When we make it this hard to enter or survive in the industry, we risk discouraging brilliant creatives from believing there's a place for them in it. And the cost isn't just theirs — it's one the entire industry will pay. The future of fashion depends on it.
At Raisefashion, we support designers to navigate these pressures strategically. Sometimes that means recalibrating go-to-market plans, adjusting wholesale terms, or finding creative ways to maintain visibility. We encourage strategic patience, not reactive decision-making.
How is Raisefashion evolving to meet the needs of the next generation of designers?
We are evolving in step with the designers, students and stakeholders we serve — listening deeply and responding intentionally. A major development has been the launch of our advisory platform — connecting brands to experts in finance, legal, operations, merchandising and more — offering targeted, real-time guidance.
Across every touchpoint, we are building for long-term growth. We have expanded our Designer Production Fund, launched initiatives around mental health and investment readiness, and deepened our masterclass series through new partnerships. Our internship programme offers hands-on, purpose-driven experience, and our New York Fashion Week preview not only presents collections — it teaches designers to approach visibility through the lens of financial strategy.
Commitment to equity must go beyond language — it must live in budgets, infrastructure and long-term strategy.
Looking ahead, we are integrating digital tools, AI literacy and consumer insight into our programming to prepare our community for the future of commerce. We are building an ecosystem that centres creativity, community and sustainability — one that equips designers to lead with clarity and confidence.
Why should retailers and investors better support the emerging talent working toward a sustainable agenda?
Success can't be defined by scale alone. It must include cultural relevance, community trust and responsible practices. Conscious brands aren't just responding to trends — they are also building the future with new systems and deeper values. They bring innovation, identity and integrity but, without sustained support, many are stretched thin and pushed to tight margins.
These designers aren't replicating legacy models, and they shouldn't. The most compelling aspect is that they are reaching audiences who are finally seeing themselves reflected in fashion. The question isn't what these designers need — we know what real support looks like. The question is, 'Are we willing to give it with intention and consistency?'
Support must be structural, not symbolic. That means tailored investment, flexible wholesale terms, co-marketing partnerships and storytelling that reflects their full identities. If we can fund legacy brands through downturns, we can make space for emerging talent to thrive.
How does Raisefashion integrate mental health support in its initiatives?
Mental health is a foundational component within our work at Raisefashion. Founders — especially from underrepresented communities — often carry the emotional weight of visibility, expectation and exclusion, all while running the day-to-day of a growing business. It's an invisible labour that takes a toll.
We have embedded mental wellness into our programmes through access to licensed therapists, peer-to-peer mentorship and workshops on boundaries, rest and resilience. Our approach is practical and compassionate. Founders can't build sustainable businesses if they are burning out behind the scenes. True sustainability includes the wellbeing of the people behind the brand.
What role does community and mentorship play in sustaining designers through these challenges?
The road to building a brand is long and often isolating. But when designers are surrounded by peers and mentors who understand the journey, that is when everything shifts. We are seeing a return to care and connection — a move away from individualism toward community as a foundation for longevity.
I believe that community brings resilience and mentorship brings clarity. We have built a space where support is transformational, where no one has to carry the weight alone and we are working to ensure our designers are seen, supported and held through every stage of their growth.
This is not an add-on — it's the core of what we do. We are building ecosystems rooted in belief, business and belonging. Behind every thriving brand is a community that believed in it first.
This feature is part of a community partnership with Raisefashion.